In a previous video we looked at a Husqvarna 562XP chainsaw that was low on power. This is the same model saw with the same complaint but has a very different problem. #smallenginerepair
I suspect your method of installing a new fuel line is more efficient, despite you calling yourself stubborn and the procedure difficult. Use of what I'm now referring to as "The Rib Spreader" and removal of one AV screw does seem more efficient once you've mastered the technique of getting into those tight spaces a couple times. Thanks for a great video and another lesson!
I'm a Husqvarna and Echo fanboy. I'm not familiar with the theory of operation of the new autotune saws, so I've stayed away from them when purchasing my 372xp and 585xp saws. The closest Husky dealer is a 45 minute drive, typical 2-3 week wait to get the saw on the bench, @ $80/hour. Long story short, I perform all my 2-cycle repair to my equipment, and your videos have been very helpful. Thanks! In this case/video, I believe I would have been able to repair this saw, but I would have disassembled more parts and it would have taken me a lot longer to complete the repair. My 60cc class saw is the echo cs-590, which is easy to work on and is a good runner. I would sure like to run the 562xp for a season to see how the autotunes perform.
Autotune performs well and compensates for a lot of variables. The problem I see is that its so good at compensating that saws will run great when they have issues...until they can't run anymore or are trashed.
OK, I'm back! ;-) There's a lot going on in this video, so I had to watch it 3 times and take notes so I didn't forget anything. I agree with another commenter (and this was the first thing that occurred to me once you got to the actual cause of the issue) - your usual method of testing the fuel line from inside the tank would have eliminated much of what followed. All I can think is that hooking up the diagnostic equipment (which essentially is interpreting codes thrown by a data logger if I'm correct) really only gave you confirmation of the actual condition, not the actual cause. Your more basic, faster and more simple pressure test would have been much more efficient in the end. In this case at least, less is WAY more! ;-)
You are correct but remember, I would have hooked it up anyway to check for firmware updates so it might as well happen first so I can look at codes and think about those while I'm doing the repair. In the end the total amount of time spent will be the same.
I thought I did one that talked about coil voltage output based on spark air gap or maybe I just read it in a service manual. I know Husky wants a coil to produce a spark that will easily jump a 6mm gap.
So far I've gotten two saws in house that had loose plugs. Neither were runners at the time, so no surprise there. With one I suspect the user didn't even know enough to check tightness, because once I got into it nothing was mechanically wrong with the saw, although it had sat for so long of course it needed the usual fuel system refresh. What really surprised me was your saw, which I assume was actually running with a plug that loose. Not seeing a lot of oily residue around that area I think it wasn't loose enough to lose compression that way, just too loose to be correct. I would have like to have had a look in the underside of that top cover to see if there was oily debris there.
Slams the customer saw onto the table, throws the cover aside, throws the air filter aside, flips onto its side a few times, more slams. !! Gets more abuse in this shop than in the woods. 😂
Ya I'm not always proud of my actions during the work day but I'm not gonna edit them out. Even though I enjoy this job, I'm not always in a great mood. Stuff happens. Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment.
On the autotune Husqvarnas does the computer reset the low and high air:fuel to some default that will start easily, or will that saw run full rich now until an initialization run?
@@rooster3019 Agreed. Its tough on us too. I just had to order a new autotune adapter to match the new dealer software they came out with. Its always something.
Question. Working on a trimmer. Was running great. Started stalling , not getting gas. Noticed bubbles in return fuel line from carb , thru purge , back to tank. Now I’m hearing a little ssssssss from venturi when pushing purge bulb. Is screen dirty ??Needle hanging up?? I’m taking apart now, want to learn before tearing apart.
@@TheGreasyShopRag strange, not when priming. My clamp holds it horizontal. After a day of two enough to soak up a 2x3 spot on a paper towel. Then no more. Even unscrewed the cap. I’ve got it apart and will do a suck/blow test with short tube on the check valve. Like you trying learn to tell issues by sounds and external symptoms. I will check screen also. Thanks
@@TheGreasyShopRag only spit back while running. Then dumps a little after stopping. I’ve seen this with bad reeds. Do you recommend a test procedure ? Thanks
Theory about leak. Always same amount. Not from tank. Thru carb then out thru butterfly shaft. Jug down / crankcase up. I think there is a pin hole leak in the seal.
@@TheGreasyShopRag just did test on carb. Needle not seating. Maybe pond scum. Lol. on seat. Time for a qtip. I learn a lot, but it takes a long time. Theory and test. Thank you for the tips.
I'm still having a debate with myself as to which is the most efficient protocol to follow when evaluating equipment like this - go for the fuel tank route, which checks several things (fuel condition, water, debris, filter, line pressure, carb needle seating), or go for the plug first, which allows a compression check in addition to other things (plug condition, gap, piston crown condition, cylinder condition with the right equipment). I guess it doesn't matter much which path to choose if there is no other information available or I'm looking at a piece of equipment I have to flip. In this case exposing the plug and seeing the fins led you in one direction, but the cause of the overheat condition may have been addressed previously so it might have been irrelevant and a potential red herring. I'm leaning towards the simplest path first - the fuel tank - because it doesn't take a tool to open it. ;-)
I look in the tank but no matter what I find I won't proceed with an expensive repair until I've looked in the cylinder so maybe that should be the first step. Now, how do I slam a saw on the bench and go right to the spark plug...?
I've seen the 10% ethanol petrol eat the rubber and it's low octane make a saw a non starter.. best grade fuel is always advisable regardless of cost .
Strange, I've only had that issue on cheap equipment over the last 10 years. Manufacturers are now making fuel lines that can handle a little ethanol, which makes sense since all of north america is using it. Also, ethanol is an octane booster, it packs more punch than gasoline
From watching your other videos. I would say for this fix it took longer. Usually you pressure test the fuel line right away. So this problem would have been found and fixed without the software.
Just got one of these used, and have been refurbishing it to the best of my ability. One of the first things I checked was the piston/ring to ensure that it wasn't scored or overly worn, and it looked almost new. The spark plug needed to be replaced, but I noticed that the old one was brown colored, so I assumed it hadn't been running hot or too lean. Once I'd cleaned everything up, I ran it to make sure the oiler worked, then setup some cottonwood rounds to make ~ 8-feet of material to tune the carb on. It worked like a charm, but I didn't run the saw much after a few more cuts because I noticed a sort of chemical burning smell from the exhaust. I used Husqvarna XP fuel for the first run, so I could properly gauge the performance of the saw, does anyone know of this fuel could be causing that kind of smell from the exhaust due to the preservative chemicals in the mix? Sorry for the long message, just wanted to outline the circumstances.
Look at the spark arrestor screen and see if there is anything burnt or melted stuck in it. I've seen plastic main bearing cages break up and get caught in there. I suppose they would stink.
@@TheGreasyShopRag Spark arrestor screen is clean. Saw is a model 2020. I can't really describe the smell...it wasn't like burning plastic or rubber, it was more like some sort of a chemical burning..which is why I went to the fuel as a possible cause.
@@TheGreasyShopRag Not as near as I could tell, no. I ordered a new gasket for the muffler because when I took that off to inspect the piston/ring the gasket was starting to separate. The saw was so caked in fine dust when I got it that I couldn't see any signs of disassembly. My assumption is that it was owned by a homeowner, not a professional user, and they just ran it until it wouldn't run anymore, which I believe to be due to the filter being caked with about 5mm of fine dust, which prevented the saw from running, because after I thoroughly cleaned it, replaced filter, spark plug, and fuel filter, the thing started right up and ran like a new saw.
Thats a tough one to put a number on without sounding like Mister Know-it-all but I'd say certainly more than half, maybe even 75%. Ya know sometimes the visible problem like a starter cord hanging out is just the result of a problem so you have to ivestigate no matter what. Other times certain models have a history of certain issues so guessing is easy.
Just watched this one. I’ve processed it for about 15 minutes but I’m going to sleep on it and comment in the morning on my computer, where it’s easier to type than this iPhone. Later! 😉🔧
