Interesting and informative video! I’m assuming the “spun” bearing on the clutch side was the reason you went with the shortblock no ? Might be an interesting “project” to tear the original cases apart to see if repairs can be made - not sure if a slightly (few thousandths larger o.d. ) bearing is available - this wood be the cats ass as you wood still get the interference fit and maintain the geometry between the the crank and both bearings. Off the top of my head another option might be to use a shim and loctite - or bore the the bearing pocket larger and affix a bushing - lotta work and probably not cost effective. The flywheel puller is a trick setup - just ordered one from traverse creek - looks a lot easier than the caveman heat-gun method 😂 …. For oiling the bearings and piston/rings etc during reassembly- tincture dropper bottles are what I use - fill with fav 2-stroke oil , squeeze the bulb to suck up some oil and then slowly dribble the oil where ya need it , gotta do this because on initial startup there is NO Lube until the mist fuel makes its way into the cylinder - rather smoke a bit than cause premature wear from no lubrication on initial start up ! - I have another filled with fuel to test on prime - works well … almost got a 572 eBay “builder saw” for a winter project but the bid wars drove the price much higher than I was willing to spend but I did scoop up a nice 262xp for a song
I sent the case back to the owner, but was thinking of turning a "sleeve" on one with an open pocket that is interference fit both on the bearing and case. Open the pocket to the interference dia. The setup on a mill would be a pita w/o modular fixturing , would prolly have to make a jig to do that. BUT I could do it motivated properly
@@afleetcommand the cats ass would be to line bore the bearing pocket and use an oversize O.D. Bearing but this is most likely unobtainium. Line boring pocket considerably oversize , thermal spray and re-machine to oem specs is another option but again probably not cost efficient. The sleeve idea may or may not work long term - never attempted - I most likely wouldn’t do it as my gut instinct is that it will work until it doesn’t when heat is introduced, dissimilar metals and thermal expansion and all that jazz - then again it could last for 20yrs !
@@afleetcommand what about the I.D. To the crankshaft ? If same then gtg. There’s a old-school bearing shop across town Buffalo Bearings. If anyone can source a suitable replacement with slightly larger O.D. He’d be the guy. Might be pricey for a single , but lots of 10 …..
@@tomasznumrych7187 you are correct....a couple extra thou don't hurt neither to ensure preventing the ring ends don't butt together if things get too hot.
@@afleetcommand I totally understand. I am definitely not trying to knock on something you like I’m just trying to say that it’ll be a sad day, even though I don’t like those particular saws if there was not a professional grade, gas powered husky.
Looking at the piston pics, that’s probably going to end up being a “problem” user. It’s not supposed to look like that and I wonder if he had 1 of many problems: fuel quality, fuel age, octane level insufficient; and then those are just the ones that I can think of. If his customer keep the chain sharp then it’ll probably lead to a repeat offender.
