The manual is correct - it’s the view from underneath the mower as if you had it mounted on a rack and could look up at it. Your drawing is the reverse image of the manual.
Ron, you the man. I wouldn't a made it without your u tube. I am slow, so I had to get half way thru the process, then come back and have another look. I couldn't figure why the belt was so loose until I picked up your verbal about the park break. which I had actually set. many thanks!
Two things I discovered. Where the brake peddle rod/shaft comes across make sure you route the belt over this as well. This is near the steering shaft. It is easy to route the belt under this rod/shaft by mistake between it and the steering plate. ANOTHER THING. I found this out after many hours of trying to replace the belt. If the drive belt is getting thrown check the brackets where the frame bolts to the transaxle. They may have broken. This will throw things out of alignment but the tractor can still operate until they break completely. This is fairly common I found out. The brackets start to break and the transaxle tilts throwing things out of whack. Eventually drive belt will get thrown. You may try and reattach the belt or put on a new one unware of the more serious issue. Check to make sure those brackets have not broken.
I appreciate the video. It helped me get through this belt change in just a few minutes this morning..I was ready for the things that gave you trouble and it went pretty smooth, front to rear installed. In regards to these "Big Box Store" mowers.They are cheaply made, I have two, one to work on one to mow with, LOL.I am however mowing three acres on rich ground.I had already done the burned, seized ,cheap plastic drive belt idler and tensioner pulleys a year ago.They sure aren't ExMark or Dixie Chopper quality.I wish I could afford one.
Thanks for the video. I have an Ariens with a similar pulley setup. Manual being right or wrong whatever. My machine wasn't moving. My manual actually has the same diagram, same page, different figure number. Your video helped me to look at this thing again because I had given up and was ready to haul it to the shop. What threw me was the pulley locations. When the brake is applied the pulleys release the belt and puts them straight in line with each other and that is the way I was looking at it when under the machine. The diagrams show them engaged which puts them in a different location, so when you add the confusion of the manual, well anyway, your video made me think this thing through especially when you pointed out the flat pulleys and the v pulleys. That helped me to identify the pulleys and use common sense to thread the belt. Tried it a different way, I'm back mowing the lawn. It's a 10 minute fix that took me a weekend. Appreciate it very much.
Glad any of this general information was useful to you.I normally on All of my ride mowers when I got them new or used make a self diagram of the drive belts for further reference as drive belts typically do not fail all the time.
Dixie B. Glad it helped.I will say buying a riding tractor from a (real dealership) does have it's advantage's.I bought my unit from a lawn dealership and is far better than the box store version in my thoughts.I would like a exmark or walker myself! However my unit has done well overall and keep it super stupid clean every week after each use!And yes I remove the deck to pressure wash on both sides to keep it odor free and ocd clean.It is a big investment and taking good care of it pays in the long run.
You are correct about the manual it sucks. I do not have any pictures in my manual for the drive belt. I have had problems with this belt coming off because grass gets packed in or if I blow off after I have mowed. I don't want to tell my husband that it happened again so when he gets home from work he has to fix it for me. I want to fix it myself and Husqvarna needs to fix this issue. Your video has been a big help. Thanks
Superjoes70 Yes remove the deck to install the drive belt.I would also recommend removing any pulleys the drive belt runs thru and clean and dry and lubricate the hardware the pulleys attach too.I just use simple wheel bearing grease and Lightly coat the bolt and then hand tighten the nut to the pulley's.Most pulley's are a sealed bearing but,keeping these clean and a light greasing around the bolts will extend the life of the said part.I would also suggest keeping the drive belt pulley's clean and dry after each use(I know ocd on the cleaning) but it really does prevent a break down and aggravation.I personally pressure wash my tractor every week and blow out the pulleys and pto clutch with my air compressor and or blower.Yes I realize this is not typical of most owners of lawn tractors.
I am a 32yr old Aussie chick that was furious with the manual given to do the above. YOUR video just saved me so much time and STRESS THANK YOU. I'm off to now the lawns lol 🍻🍻🍻🍻🍻🍻
Glad this helped.I very soon will be putting another video of the Husqvarna here on a how to fix a broken component.I am waiting on parts before I can share this.
Have the parts to Fix my mower just to busy this week to do so and post a New video.This is something that can wear out on any unit and your manual will not show this repair work.R
Yeah the factory manual is umm worthless.I will say that AYP (american yard products) makes husq,mtd,cubcadet,craftsman,troybilt etc and ironically they share a similar if not the same drive belt(model or design).Glad this made things EASY!!! That was my whole idea when I made this video to save the irritation for many other ride tractor owners.THanks R
John L.Glad this helped out.will say in short keeping your ride tractor super clean on top and underneath keeps things in order.I after use of my ride mower wash/pressure wash my mower and blow OUT the pulley's to ensure they are DRY!Granted they are sealed bearings the debris over time will make them Fail!!!!As a good measure of maintenance I remove the drive belt pulley's and clean to the letter and put wheel bearing grease on the Bolt and reinstall.I do this 2 times in a mowing season.This will extend the life of the bearing and prevent and pulley from seizing up and or a broken drive belt yes really..Some may agree/disagree but over maintaining these pulley's can prevent down time in my experience.In short a light dab of wheel bearing grease around the bolt and slide the pulley back into place keeps the bearing moving freely.Just KEEP the pulley's clean to extend the life of the part and SET the parking brake to make removing the pulley's easier.If you have any further questions and or comments just ask.
The diagram is correct. It is shown from the bottom looking up. I too assumed that the diagram was from the top looking down. Once I lay underneath the lawnmower and placed the manual flat against the bottom frame it made sense.
Gerard maybe so.However I find that most owners of said brand have had the same issue with a poorly illustrated diagram.I have worked on ride mowers for a lot of years and I just felt my diagram made Common sense to share!Thanks
This was a great help to me -I tried to replace it after it broke and could not figure it out till I watched your video. You are correct, it's a 15 minute job once you know what you are doing. Thank you so much for your help.
Ron1987, THANK YOU. I was going crazy trying to route a replacement drive belt. As soon as I heard the "manual diagram sucks" and saw yours, my frustration went away. You da man. I was looking at it all the wrong way.
John G. Yes removing the deck is the ideal thing when replacing the drive belt.I also suggest removing any pulleys the drive belt runs thru and clean and blow out or let air dry.I place some wheel bearing grease on the bolts myself to ensure a smoother operation as these are exposed to debris every use.As for the leveling you should one attachment rod on the front.This is easy to adjust remove the rod and rotate the nut forward or backwards to raise or lower the Front of the deck.Then reinstall.On the rear adjustment arms you have to have them unhooked from the deck and same adjustment as the front as far as adjusting.Keep in mind raising the deck too much will make things rub metal to metal.I find I just run my deck At the highest setting and gives me about a 3.5-4.0 inch cut on my yard.My unit has a 1-7 on the handle for the deck.Hope this helps and sorry for the delayed follow up.
Basically...you have made me feel like a genius!!! Thanks so much for that!! I highly recommend Parts from Amazon, put in Husqvarna part numbers and compare prices... You decide.
Thank you SO MUCH for your diagram of the routing for the drive belt. This preacher has been down for 1 month (on and off) with a mower that I couldn't use because the diagram from the factory was totally useless (as you said). I couldn't tell which side of the steering column the belt went. Thanks for that HUGE and very plain diagram. You saved my life ! lol I have yet to get my first cut...but thanks to you, it's ON for tomorrow. Fixed and rolling!!! Thanks so much! God bless you!
Hello, I just wanted to thank you very much for your RU-vid article. I've a wee McCulloch 300ex which seems to be pretty much the same as Poulan and was really struggling with the transmission belt. Your video was the only one I found which actually explained how to get the belt round the steering column as I was tearing what little hair I have left out in frustration! Great job with the video which showed the spools too - very useful indeed. I had dismantled much more than I needed to in my efforts to figure it out and I'm very grateful. Regards, Colin from Aberdeen, Scotland.
AMEN, good video, and i agree 100% with the "need to get rid of the plastic pulleys" there is nothing wrong with good old school metal ones. Cheers mate.
@@Ron1987 your welcome, i like your straight up approach i just wish that i would think ahead with the camera as i do so many projects it isn't until I'm 70% or more done that I think "darn this would have made a great video", and as for their manuals, WTF, they dont even provide a legend or key for the part numbers on the diagrams, what kind of half asset BS is that. And that comes from someone that went to trades hook for architectural design and none of my professors would have let a blueprint, diagram or even a rough sketch slip by in the condition that the Husqvarna diagrams are in, the only thing worse is parts or tech direct from China, as its either in Chinese or the English translation "be not far good for you understand picture A" or something like that. Anyway, i am always looking for subscribers for my hobby channel, I dislike this 1,000 user minimum just to apply for monetization, that's such a bunch of corporate greed BS, they can't even let little channels make the $1.80 a month they might have made in ads, no they have to keep everything until you turn to the Darkseid and follow their bidding, which sounds like Communism to me.
@@milohajek I have not bothered with going for the (paid aspect) I like to just share info for FREE.I do like to take a simple approach compared to most manuals.I can say that husqvarna just has a fail in steps to fix certain things and there parts if original just break to damn easy.I am pretty sure that company has probably seen my video and say wow a better way than our overly complicated makes no sense blah blah.Just make me glad it has helped out SO many people bc AYP makes multiple brands with very similar or exact drive belt set ups.MTD,ariens ,toro cub cadet and more.(husq) is made by AYP as well.Thanks R
Thank you so much for being to the point. Very helpful. We sure live in a disposable society now a days don’t we?!!! God forbid something last the test of time.thanks again
Sure thing.I must say back when I addressed this I had no idea how many ran into this.But was determined to Make sure No one endured the bs just to fix a drive belt.
Thank You Sir !!!! I would have never been able to do this without your guidance.. I have a YTH 24V48 and the directions were right on.. Piece of cake!
Thanks for this video. My failure was the middle pulley had froze up as well and I lost drive power to nearly half of what it was capable of. Luckily the belt wasn't damaged and in under an hour I replaced the pulley and greased all 3 pulleys and had the tractor back together and again with full drive power. Also you are dead on about that book illustration! I thank you again for going into full detail here and creating a true map of the drive belt layout.
Congrats bro, its a fine feelin' when that fresh power kicks in ain't it? This video helped me out a whole lot when I was lookin under my mower wondering wth I was gonna get into, lol. All good info. Peace out, green grass and high tides my man!
Tony sorry for the slow reply back.Ok my suggestions are fairly straight forward on the (general checks).I would remove the deck so you can be under the mower and do a good visual and feel of the things I will recommend.First upon checking my own unit I had about a 1/2 inch of play in the drive belt with the brake (off).Brake on puts slack in the belt drive in case fyi.I would check all 3 plastic pulley by removing them and cleaning to ensure there not seizing up and maybe stretching the drive belt.Next on the flat style pulley and the v style pulley on the (RHS) check the tension spring that connect's to the bracket to see if it is distorted from a good working part.3rd my thought is if the mower does not move as fast on full throttle leads me to my last suggestion.If any of the 3 cheap plastic pulleys stick or drag upon removing and washing and drying they probably have stretched your drive belt due to sticking and worn (JUNK) plastic pulleys.My mower showed a drag at time's but I just overlooked the (obvious) my foul on that.In short my final thoughts are I think your plastic pulley's bearings or one pulley' could be starting to fail and causing a drag therefore stretching the drive belt creating the slack in your drive belt.I would almost guarantee your belt is stretched due worn drive belt pulley's failing.If it were me I would replace all 3 drive belt pulley's and buy a brand new drive belt and be back to perfect!!I will say I buy all of my parts from www.partstree.com and have excellent diagrams and have your model tractor number and serial number and year specific to your mower handy.I know this is LONG winded but I try my best to offer the MOST information possible to make things easier for you!!!!! If you have any further questions by all means ask.I will say a slow or dragging drive belt pulley will make the mower go slower,drag and or slip unless a transmission issue come's into the picture.I think your issue is clearly a worn drive belt and worn out pulley's. I hope this helps.
Good video, and yes start from the front with the belt slid above the drive pulley which will give an additional tiny amount of slack. Then on mine I had to work the belt between the gas tank and fan bolt, slide it between a fan blade and rotate the fan slowly around. The belt then fell into place, back to the front work it back into the pulley, Done! Took longer to jack the tractor up remove the deck and tires than to get the belt on.
Steve D. The only pulley's available are made of plastic only.On your 2nd question I would have to do some checking for the rear differential fluid.Typically if the drive belt's fail it is the pulley's and not the rear end in most cases!The simple is the sealed bearings seize and just chew up the drive belt.I will do a follow up later as it is late and I am tired.Keeping the drive belt pulley's clean and just some wheel bearing grease around the bolt will keep them in good working condition.I myself blow out my pulley's every use and on my every 25 hours of service(required on my unit) grease these pulley's hardware(bolt the pulley slide's onto) as the bearing is sealed and not a service part itself.
Take the deck off and roll the mower onto its left side. Makes it a 5 minute job. And a whole lot safer. I've done it both ways and laying under it is a royal PITA.
After much procrastination I just completed this task. The belt was stretched after 10 years of use and didn't deliver the same power up hills. As depicted in this video, the process is relatively straight forward with one important warning to heed. IMPORTANT, OH SO VERY IMPORTANT: There is a piece of shaped metal which fits into a slot on the PTO clutch and prevents it from spinning. Make sure you replace this part correctly"!!!! If you don' the clutch will spin, rip the wiring apart and hit your front steering connections. I didn't secure the clutch lock and f#%Ked kup my wiring. Luckily I was able to splice it back together otherwise I'd be out $150+ for a new one. I also recommend tilting the tractor on it's side instead of jacking up (which I tried at first). It's easier on the neck! Just be sure to protect the chassis and cover and also secure with straps. Hopefully my mistake will help somebody else out.
Never hurts to add additional tips.I just used my tractor yesterday first time this year.I will say during the winter I ordered extra parts that could fail during the season while I use it.I have all 3 drive belt pulleys,spare deck belt,and drive belt,extra cotter pins specific to the deck hangers,and E clips used on the front hubs(keeps rim on axle) and more.Being a lot of these parts are not in any store or shop I keep them on hand for emergencies that happen.I cant afford to let my tractor sit with over two acres to cut every week.Fun
I've got this mower. I loved this mower until today. Today this mower is very lazy and doesn't want to go to work so it threw its belt. This video helps, but it looks like a big job and now I feel more lazy than mower.
You made my day. I "dicked around for hours with the owner's manual and watching RU-vid video's and just was unable to mount the drive belt. After watching your video, I had the belt on in less than 5 minutes. Many thanks. I have a Husqvarna YTK22V46. It has a 46 inch deck and a 22 Briggs V-Twin engine.
Thanks for your work on this. I was very frustrated when the mower would not move after a few hours spent following the factory diagram. I now have a copy of your diagram in the manual for next time. And yes, your diagram works.
Hi Ron, just wanted to say a big THANKS for this video. I have an Ariens 93605500 54" Hydro Tractor that is very similar in setup to yours. Drive belt was chewed up by debris getting in the drive line. First time replacing it took several tries (and like you, placing it on the wrong side of the steering shaft) because the manual diagram was absolute GARBAGE, not mentioning the harness or the attachment as you have. Having it happen again just recently, I looked around for an easier way to do this and stumbled upon your video, which is surprisingly similar to my experience. Like the guy with the craftsman, the space between the fan and the gas thank is less than an inch, not much to work with, so starting from the rear was my natural choice as well, even though the manual says start from the front. Who designs these things?!? Anyways, long story short, thanks for the helpful video and knowing that I'm not alone in my frustrations with terrible documentation. :)
Change Drive Belt on Craftsman DGS6500 - Do NOT need to Remove Mower Deck Summary: Attach belt to front shaft just below drive pulley first, then over rear fan and on to rear pulley, then attach to front pulley. Must be routed on driver/left side of steering shaft. No mowing deck removal needed. Steps: (1) Jack up front with ordinary car jack. Be sure to set brake to “on” which also creates full slack for the belt. (2) Cut old belt off with tin snips. (3) Remove mowing deck belt at engine pulley only and let in place; this can be done by hand by walking belt around pulley. (4) At front: Remove 5” mower clutch stabilizing arm and electrical connection (to clutch) on the passenger/right side to allow belt to slide over pulleys and clutch. (5) Lay belt loosely in position (front to back) on the DRIVER/LEFT side of the steering shaft. (6) Slide belt over engine pulley/clutch assembly and let loose around the shaft; do not attach to pulley yet…for full slack. (7) Attach to rear transmission pulley: From passenger (right) side, feed belt under horizontal bar and above pulley/fan nut by using a LONG flat blade screwdriver to force it between the nut and the gas tank. The gas tank is plastic and will give enough when forcing it over the nut with the screwdriver. (8) Slide belt between two fan blades (still on passenger/left side) and rotate fan clockwise to allow belt to clear the fan. (9) Attach belt to front engine pulley: Work from passenger/right side since the belt guide/guard moves on that side and not the driver/right side. Use ratchet on engine drive shaft to rotate pulleys to walk the belt between guard/guides and onto the engine pulley. (10) Reattach clutch stabilizing arm, wire, and mower belt (can be done by hand on passenger/right side by walking belt into pulley. (11) Attach belt to remaining middle pulleys with brake still set. Then release brake for full belt/pulley contact.
92Merc You have to start the belt from the rear with your parking brake set.This allows the needed slack to work the drive belt around the fan blades as they do flex. I will say on my unit specific I had the room to install my belt with out to much of a problem in a few minutes or less.With your unit I realize it could have far less space to work with.But with the parking brake set,you should have enough slack to loop the drive belt over the fan and pull forward then loop it thru your drive pulleys then to the pto.If you have any further questions I will try to assist you the best I can.Thanks for comment and viewing my page.
OMG thank you! I have been pulling my hair out trying to figure this out by the owners manual. I have an lgt2654 and it is exactly the same. I also had my belt on the wrong side of the shaft.
Thank you for the detail in the video. This is also applicable to the Ariens mowers(mine is #93605300, 46"). One suggestion, take off the entire front pulley below the motor to remove old belt and replace the new one. I did not have as easy a time getting the new belt to seat due to the belt guard below the motor. I took off the pulley (one bolt) and had it reassembled with the new belt in 5 minutes. Great vid and thanks for taking the time!
Dude, THANKS A LOT for sharing this with us! You are one of the rare few in explaining and demonstrating this particular tractor/drive belt tutorial and I'm tellin' ya my friend you've done a hell of a job covering the procedure. I took one of these mowers in on trade and it runs 100% with a new engine and various other new parts however It started losing pulling pwr so I hoisted it up and noticed a very worn drive belt! I"ve never had a Husky mower or worked on one but now I'm back out to my shop, very confident of the task at hand. You sir, are a scholar and a gent. PEACE bro! Doug H. in N.C.
Your welcome and glad this helped make things less annoying.I will say the company that makes a multitude of ride mower's for brand name's (ayp) American yard products (this should be correct) they probably use similar application's among brands.In my final thought's it really disappointed me that not only my factory service manual was incorrect but the online version mirrored the same FAIL pictorial for who know's how many units sold.Key reason I made this video to make things EASY!!!!!!!!!!
I have an Ariens 93605600 46" cut and the manual is not correct either. I finally figured out after viewing your video that the diagram is from a bottom view (imagine laying on ground looking up) or taking the front of mower and standing it up on it's back wheels then look at it. Frustrating to have to do the job twice. Most everyone is taught to view a diagram from the top. Manual is not correct. Good video.
Thanks for the reference. The manual picture threw me too until I looked at your drawing and realized the manual is “reverse” from what I would suspect. My unit is a GT52XLS and my pulleys are luckily all metal...but plastic blades on the hydro fan. I did pick mine up used and knew I needed to replace belts. I have a feeling the motion belt was replaced at some point before I owned this rider as the motion belt was actually around the steering shaft! This certainly seemed odd. Excited to get the new belts in and see how the unit runs once all is back together. Thanks for the good reference.
You are absolutely cracking me up!!!! I so want to buy you a beer and have you tell me this again. Haha. You sound like me trying to keep my composure during a ridiculous meeting. The huffs and puffs are killing me. Thank you for the video I gotta go change my belt now.
Thanks for the info Ron. Your pulley routing definitely helped. I ended up having to remove the four bolts that hold my rear fend down and lift that up a couple of inches to get the room to get the pulley over the trans pulley bolt. After that, all went well. Thanks for the video. BTW, for others, I have a 2008 Craftsman DGS 6500. Same machine as the video, just a Kohler engine.
Hey Ron. Good video and you saved me $200 for a service call. I too made the same mistake as you... and probably a million others also, by reading the plan view upside down. Man, I hate it when people do this with instructions. Every man and his dog reads instructions from the plan view and we are accustomed to this. So when some idiot who never has been out in the field with hands on work wants to make the plan from the other way up i.e looking from underneath the mower looking up, it just confuses everyone. When I seen this by watching your video, I just made a mirror image of the plan in the manual...and voila, job easy now and all is good. Nice that you bring this to the attention of those like me who stick to the orthodox way of doing things. I checked the instructions and there is no mention that this plan is wrong way up. Yep, you will get the smart aleck's who tell you that you read the plan wrong... dont worry about them. .. they are minority.
Spot on brother! This man is teaching and sharing skills with his fellow human being for FREE, using his own time and resource. Then out come people to criticize and judge..... I say those folks walk in darkness, and see with anger because of scales over their eyes , and their heart is full of contempt and scorn. God help em! Didn't mean to rant Mr. Strikey (who's called Mikey :-) ) It frustrates me too because Im always extremely thankful for help and info like this. I see you are as well, thats why we're here. To help each other learn and grow. Take it easy buddy!
Mikey S. You are correct on your comments.If the manufacture had just made a diagram as I illustrated I bet it would make things a lot easier for everyone.Thanks for your input.R
Ron, would it be easier to remove the deck if replacing the belt? Also, I have the Husqvarna LGT 2554, is there a way to level the deck? What looks to be level adjustments, threaded rods, one on each side, they look like there is no more threads, or adjusting.Thanks, JohnG
David L.I thank you for checking out the vid.I will say in my factory manual the diagram is 100% (dead wrong)!!!! I did my do diligence and even on the Husqvarna webpage it shows the same (dead wrong) diagram.I even double checked my factory manual and page 34 is a listing of parts.I will say I paid $2600.00 for my tractor and yeah I know (green) can mean less problems but for more $$.In short I being very mechanical figured out the problem and made my point Very clear with the brand head qtr.I also do own a JD hydro 185 with a 38 inch deck and Kawasaki engine very oldschool but,it has been restored.I do appreciate your comments and I keep the JD as a back up just in case.Thanks again Ron
I don't know why that belt diagram isn't in the yth2448 manual . it only has the belt config for the deck. I nearly destroyed mine putting the belt on the wrong way. @7:28 is what happened to mine. It was only 3 years old!! I could never buy another one of these knowing they put plastic parts in such critical high wear areas.
Paul P. To remove the belt you in some simple steps do this.1st have your parking brake set to the locked position.This puts slack in the drive belt.You might have to physically have to pull the drive belt loose ON the LHS side the (stand alone drive belt pulley) to alloy even More slack.I will say DO have to unconnect the pto harness because the wiring is in the path of the drive belt and does require Unconnecting this to install a new drive belt.The pto harness feeds thru the RHS up to the starter with a open area thru the frame and easy to do.I am kind of tired and any further questions just ask!!!!.Replacing the drive belt is Not hard just make sure your parking brake is set to the Locked position and then go from there.R
I will say that I made my point out in my video and yes I did call the corporate office in regard to my problem.To end I feel like my share on the subject could help others and maybe one day the companies making said products step up a notch and do it right the 1st time!!!!Thank you as you clearly understand my frustration with CHEAP PARTS.
Elaine B . My mower as stated has the Kawasaki engine and in my experience is far more reliable and fewer issue's.I have my 1996 MTD with a 46 inch cut and 18.5 briggs/Stratton runs fine and is retired for normal use!I have had to rebuild the carburetor and replace the deck parts and etc it works to this day (IF) I needed it as a back up.The KEY to any mower engine is just DO the proprer maintenance to make it last.On my unit is require's service every 25 hours of use.Oil change and filter and plugs and air filter(air filter if dirty) and fuel filter.In short servicing a briggs or kohler engine at least two times in a mowing season will extend the life of the engine and make it a good piece of equipment.I myself pressure wash my deck underneath each Use and hand wash the mower (I know ocd) every week.I blow out the engine bay and ALL the pulley's underneath and especially the drive belt pulley's.Maintenance is KEY to make to last regardless of the brand or engine.
Glad to help and make this simple! I do find the owners manual just (FAILS) in the diagram.Again I must say if the manufacture had did a better illustration of the drive belt diagram from the rear to front looking down thru the body of the mower would have resolved this problem.Key reason I made this video to address the (fail point) in my factory manual.
Your welcome!!!! I will say the diagram in my oem book was NOT for my model and inturn made a easy job more irritating.But the plus side is I am a very mechanical guy and figured out the goof.Glad my information made your drama better.That is soley my page's reason to make things easier and well understandable!I will say I did vent my views on this with the manufacture and made this Cristal clear on the real &#%$!* up they illustrated for my model after I did this video.In my opinion it fell on deaf ears,but a video says more than words on a problem with a product.
Jason D. thank you for viewing and sharing your thoughts.I must say the factory diagram doe's not show the drive belt as my drawing did to make it SIMPLE!!!! If the factory diagram was correct why is it that SO many other's ran into the same issue?In short if I was incorrect why has this video helped so many other's with the exact same issue?Not to be rude but,unless you own a said product and tried to fix the issue I think you really cannot discount the correction and appropriate answer to the problem.Thanks again for your thoughts,but if I was wrong why has this been a issue for Many owner's with similar or the same issue.I am a very mechanical oriented person and have restored lawn tractors and NOT a goof when it come's to fixing lawn tractors period.R
Joshua D glad it helped.Have a New video on my camera to load up in regards to the Husqvarna.Just been tooo busy this week to get it posted.New issue I had and I guess it may help others down the line.Thank
You never really showed how you get the belt onto the back pulley over that fan. I have the same tractor in a Craftsman. On my tractor, there is no space above the fan and below the gas tank. You said the fan was flexible. But I wasn't sure what you did exactly to get that belt over the back area. For me, If it wasn't for that fan, I agree in general, it would be a pretty straight forward job.
Trying to get the belt over the fan is pain in the butt , the nut and bolt head almost touch the fuel tank giving you maybe 1/4 “ clearance . You have push the tank up to get clearance. Mine is a GT48 DXLS
Well Based on some models there are some mild differences. I really do not think these manufacturers always view things from a replacement aspect on wear items.
@@Ron1987 Even looking at you tube videos didn’t help that much , like starting the drive belt install at the rear ,had to that twice because you can’t get it over the large blade pulley .
Good video Ron. I was able to tackle my drive belt (V belt) replacement on my gt2254. It was slightly different but your video motivated me to try it. However, now I have a squelch sound coming from the front when the clutch/brake is not engaged. When I let up on the brake the squelch begins but the power is still there. Any thoughts...I have a video on my page of the problem. Thanks
Steve D.A few questions about your tractor.Can you provide the year model,serial number,engine code,and engine model.Plus the drive belt part number you have been buying.Let me do some searching so I can help you determine if your drive belt matches my research based specificly to your mower.Your mower clearly should not burn thru a drive belt every season period.I would remove your pulleys under the deck and clean and grease the bolts as the bearings a are sealed.I use soapy water and blow out with air.Just use wheel bearing grease on the bolts and reinstall.Make sure those bearings turn with ease!And last if you have a hour meter how many hours are on the unit.Lot's of questions I know.But I will try to help you with the problem if I can.
Vasile C. I assume you want the drive belt part number correct? I will provide that later as I am tired/long day.All you would need is the part number.I will say this drive belt would have to be ordered and I recommend (partstree.com) as the price's are good and delivery is Quick! I will follow up soon with the information.
whats the tension on the drive belt... mine seems really loose (2 or 3 inches with brake off... and my tractor is going abit slower then what it used to.....
thanks! well done.....we broke our mower belt on our Husquvarna 46 riding mower....for some reason the belt falls off when disengaged...is there a way to tighten belt when not engaged?? It works well when engaged and mowing but disengage it and it falls off.
Natserog is your drive belt possible stretched? If really old this could be the problem.If not look at the tension spring on the left hand side close to the single pulley that attaches to the bracket close to the 2 pulleys in the middle.If this spring is stretched or distorted I would replace it.Those are two things that would affect the belt tension for the drive belt. Hope this helps
My dog chewed through my wires on the motor part of my mower. There's like 3 or 4 wires not quite sure if there right or not. it be nice to see a clear pictures of your wires 😢
@Ron1987 that would be awesome! He pretty muched chewed on the wires right out of all the connectors right besides the starter,there's like 3 connectors but I was just needing 1 of them from where the coil packs come out and into the one connectors,if you need more details just let me know and thanks abunch! Much appreciated
@Ryan Bostick sorry 4 the delayed response.Was target practice day indoors.Anyway once the rain stops I'll snap some pics as my tractor is in my other garage.
@Ron1987 appreciate it man..Yeah if you can get close up on where the wires go into the connectors that be great! There's like 2 or 3 wires that I'm unsure of.Thanks again..
Thanks for the great video I wonder if it would be possible and easier to remove the deck from the tractor and then install the belt ? thanks again Joe
Sure No problem to share tips and direction on what should be a cupcake repair.Thats why I simplified it to ease the irritation of reading a crappy manual and it still made no sense.Ha
I have the GTH 24V52LS. Mine only has 2 pulleys on the drive belt if you don't count the front and rear pulleys. There is no video and mine has the drive belt straddling the steering shaft. I'm having a very hard time deciding on how to change the drive belt ? Any help ?
I did some research on your model to see the drive belt pulleys etc.Yours while does not have that 3rd stand alone pulley to the side my thoughts.You should be able to USE my diagram and overall install process.You have to unplug the PTO electrical plug,remove the pto Lock bolt on the RHS.Start with the deck removed and elevated with jack stands unless the clearance is enuff as on the touching ground.The drive belt should be started from the FRONT first.Loop the belt and push towards the pto to what should be the left (verify before you remove the Old belt).Then run the drive belt thru the serpentine pulleys flat side of belt to FLAT side pulley,V side of belt to V grooved pulley.then to the rear.You may wantto get the drive over the rear pulley at trans then with the park brake set insert the drive into those 2 pulleys which actually create the tension on the drive.I would Set park brake from the begining.Its not really to hard to do this.If you have any further questions just Ask!!! While for some odd reason your unit does not have the exact set up IDK its husqvarna .R
Also found the exact manual for your model that shows the drive belt routing so I could verify the pulleys.I assume you have a manaul,if not just google it and it will pop up under like manual libs.com
MJP To be honest if I was incorrect why has this video been viewed so much?Husqvarna in my opinion did a poor job of the illustration of the drive belt.Thanks for comment but I have to disagree with your thoughts.If the manual had showed a illustration as mine I doubt most owners would be trying to figure out how to route the dang drive belt if it broke or not.
