Here's my 2024 Update on this question: The most important thing about HVAC is getting a company who is going to do a professional job of the installation. Still be in business for the ten year warranty period after the install and have written warranties and guarantees for emergency service and satisfaction of the installation. You probably already guessed that this won't be the cheapest quote but instead will be one of the major brands which in my 21-years in the industry would mean; Carrier/Bryant, Rheem/Ruud, Trane/Am Standard, and Lennox. Nevermind Lennox told everybody to F-off during the covid era. The best companies usually install a major brand and seperate themselves with; Transitions with sheet metal not metal tape. Install non-proprietary Air-Filter systems-(that you can buy the media for at any hardware store instead of having to purchase from them). They braze the refrigerant lines instead of crimping or other even worse methods. (I don't trust plumbers who can't sweat-solder either). Good companies set new AC units on new leveled pads and replace the electrical disconnect and whip, replace the line-set whenever possible and pull a vacuum to 500 microns before adding the new refrigerant charge into the system. And so-on and so-forth. Those things are more important than brands, however, stay with a major brand if you can because cheap brands are usually installed by cheap companies that do not install with the procedures outlined above. Finally, this stuff is getting so ridiculously expensive and higher and higher efficiencies are being federally mandated that the equipment does not last near as long as older less efficient systems did, so look to basic value systems instead of high-end systems as you'll be looking at replacing them soon after the ten year part warranties expire. The cost to repair out of warranty parts is ridiculous unless you can do it yourself, so value over sales marketing and bells and whistles is the way to go and it's only going to get worse. I really enjoyed a call I ran yesterday where the customer was looking for an AC Only on top a 1960's era Low-Boy Rheem furnace with cast-iron burners, heat-exchanger and a belt-drive blower-motor with actual oil ports for the motor bearings. I unfortunately, had to shake my head and tell him we would have to replace the full system as the furnace was simply too old even though it was built much better than anything that would replace it today. They're not meant to last 30-40 years anymore they're meant to last as long as your refrigerator, about 10-years, or die as close to after the ten year part warranty expires as possible.
Things are definitely built to last long “enough” these days… it’s unfortunate but I think the higher end stuff is still worth it if you’re trying to get a quieter system or some other benefit, we get an average of 20 years out of stuff in Colorado. Phoenix is 10-15 for sure much harsher summers
@@TheHVACDopeShow I'm in Columbus Ohio. Used to be 15-20 Years as of 15-Years ago. Now, with the cost of labor and parts repairs of higher technology systems, it's pretty much anytime after the 10-year warranty expires and you have a problem that needs to replace any of these expensive parts and labor items. Which is the point I was trying to make. Doesn't mean If you have money to burn you can't enjoy the newest and most energy efficient systems that are available today!
What about the new refrigerants that are supposed to come out in 2024 /2025. Should I wait to buy a system that uses the new refrigerant? I am looking to replace an old system that still works not an emergency yet. It’s for a rental. I have an estimate for a electric 15 seer2 carrier heat pump for $6500 and a 15 seer 2 stage rheem for $7300 location in the south east.
Can you do a video on how much solar (just for the heat pump) perhaps with a battery would be required to power a Daikin Fit for a typical Denver home? I know this would be hard to estimate but it would make for an interesting video.
I don't want to put words into his mouth but I think that will be impossible to say without knowing the homes size, how well insulated it is and how cold it is. Maybe if you know how many hours a day 24hr period your present (gas or propane furnace) runs on a really cold day then it might be possible to figure how many hours and the kwhours you will use per day on running a heat pump. Lots of variables. He might know how much electricity a Daiken uses when running for 1 hour straight and then you can figure out the rest.
I can certainly try but it would be a lot of guessing, I’ll see if I can incorporate a range of costs or explain breakeven periods and operating costs accounting for inflation to give people an idea of true “savings” or operating costs. In theory with Solar you’ll size it always so you’re able to offset 100% of your usage or more (most people run space heaters etc for a few months when they’re sizing their solar system since the utility Xcel uses the last 3 bills to determines a max allowable system size), but I can at least cover what the offset / payback actually looks like. It will be a lot of math but it’s a common question. I’ll probably frame it around Solar payback and heat pump payback combo
I had my Daikin Fit with heat pump installed 3 weeks ago and WOW !!!! The system is so quiet and keeps the home so comfortable. The air handler is almost silent and the outside unit is very quiet to the point that you have to stand next to it to hear it. I took the time to research and watched many videos including yours and it was worth it. The 12 year warranty is awesome and I also purchased a 12 year labor warranty which should offer no problems for many years. I also will have 2 maintenance / service calls per year to maintain it in top condition. I'm a happy camper in Florida and can't wait for warm weather to enjoy my Daikin. Keep up the great videos, Daikin Fit ROCKS !!
get your 2 service calls every year but make sure your actually getting cleanings, cleanings, cleanings. wether it’s included or you have to pay additional but cleanings cleanings and cleanings
@@mdjay9242 I know the owner of the company and his service techs are top notch and don't cut any corners. The outside and inside units will be cleaned 2 times a year and hopefully the unit should long outlast the 12 year parts and service warranty I received when it was installed.
A very good video on the overall aspects of an HVAC system. Since I am currently taking an HVAC course I can appreciate all the small details that I would be unaware of until I started this class. Seeing & actually working on these systems makes a tremendous difference in understanding how they work.
Need some guidance. Building a Right Choice House in GA. Spray foam insulation, upgraded windows. The house is a ranch style with 2000sq ft main floor and additional 670sq ft over the garage and part of the house. This area will have 2 bedrooms and a full shared bath. House has a full walkout basement unfinished. Looking at HVAC. I would like to use inverter technology and have an air handler for the main floor in the basement using duct and some mini splits hanging on the walls in the bedrooms on the second floor. Because of the insulation we are thinking 3ton. Please advise!
You’ll want to get a heat load calc done to confirm the sizing, it’s probably not far off but I would think you might need more for cooling depending on where / temps in Georgia. Maybe consider a VRV life? These can pair with multiple head units, cassettes, and air handlers / furnace coil combos so if you’re wanting an all in one that’s a great inverter heat pump. It’s what I have at my house with air handler and a few heads and it works very well. We can even run it on our backup generator when we have power outages because they only pull 2 amps or so on startup.
Normally they’re exposed by default in retrofit because we don’t conceal things in the wall because it’s not cost effective nor easy to service… makes sense to me but I’m honestly Not 100% sure because we don’t do new construction so our line sets have never been concealed for an inspection. Existing line sets in condos are the exception because It’s impossible to run a new line set
80% System well and good enough by put the Thermostat Fan on Auto at all times Even in the Winter . It Costs less and Comfortable too and last longer than 90-96 % System 😅👍
Great information. We have an old R22 single stage AC with two systems one for upstairs and one for down. We are in Galveston county Texas and use a ton of electricity to keep our house barely cool. Been in the house 23 years and its time to upgrade to a more efficient system. Just starting our research.
Right on, honestly any inverter system will work great in your climate I’m familiar with Galveston. Even the side discharge Daikin Fit, Amana Side Discharge, or Goodman side discharge. Will make a huge different in your bill!
Get a Daikin Fit as they are awesome !! I'm in Florida with really high temps 90-100 and it keeps my home very cool even set at 75-76. My electric bill averages about 85-90 a month and the air is on 24/7. Very quiet units also and the thermostat has a app for the phone, so you can change the temp from wherever you may be.
Struggling on a decision. We're in KY see all 4 seasons to their peaks. Can get to 100 and get down to 0. We have a new build with an attached party barn. Total square footage 7,000. We're being quoted 5 Bosch inverter systems (only 16 SEER). We only have access to propane so we leaned towards inverter systems with good insulation. I'm lost. Need less units with higher SEER systems like Daikin? Just trying to avoid insane electric bills. What's the point of 5 systems when you're probably paying just as much in electric at 16 SEER versus something else? Please help :)
5 systems is probably because of the square footage and being able to service the individual zones separately… it’s always hard to move air long distances so that’s a good way to do it. For the Bosch systems in your climate I think the 18 SEER is worth it, since it shouldn’t be too big of a price jump, or the Daikin Fit enhanced systems will work well in that climate and maintain capacity well. Not sure if you’re using gas for Heating / furnaces as backup but an 80% furnace for backup heat when it gets below 10F is my vote because it will probably be a wash being on propane furnace vs a heat pump at that temp, but the approach of going big on insulation is ALWAYS a good bet and honestly heating with propane vs electric backup heat on the coldest nights is probably a non issue so even an all electric air handler would be fine and probably a simpler install than incorporating furnaces. Insulation is very underrated and makes a huge impact on keeping things comfortable and able to keep up. Those Bosch units are full capacity down to 4F so they keep up well in cold temps and the Daikin fit is close to full capacity heating until about 20F. Congrats on the new build, sounds like an awesome project!
@@TheHVACDopeShow You’re the best! Appreciate your help so much. Is there any reason to go up to a 20 versus an 18 with Bosch? And is it a downfall that they’re not side discharge units? He was quoting Mitsubishi as well and we should have that price soon. Curious if you would stick with Bosch over Mitsubishi and if so, is there a reason to go up to 20 versus the 18. Definitely not looking to throw more money at it all if there really isn’t a reason or the ROI isn’t there.
In the Denver Metro Area, you mentioned furnace heat in addition to heat pumps for a few cold days. What are your thoughts on supplementing radiant heat with a heat pump?
It’s common we install a lot of systems like this for air conditioning purposes primarily but people use them for heating and they work well and faster than radiant. It’s great for a room that isn’t used often for example and then when you turn on the heat pump (ductless head unit) it warms the air very quickly while the radiant will take longer to actually heat the space and make it feel warm. The air to water heat pumps on the market are also a potential replacement for traditional boilers as they can actually heat the water in your radiant system provided it’s an infloor radiant.
Hello, I live in Eastern NC where it doesn’t get particularly cold in the winter, but gets hot and quite humid during the summer. I currently have a 11 year old dual fuel (electric heat pump/propane backup) forced hot air all external heating/ ac system. It’s been nickel and diming me for the past couple of years. I was told that it was getting close to the end of its life expectancy and will probably need to be replaced soon. I wanted to know what’s new, reliable, and highly efficient (as I’m on a fixed retirement income) that might work to replace what I currently have. I’m quite home/building savvy, but HVAC is not my forté. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Best bang for your buck in my opinion would be an inverter heat pump paired with an air handler. You don’t need backup heat since these can heat effectively year round in that climate and those would make for an efficient system. The Daikin Fit Enhanced would be a great option, or any 16-17+ seer inverter driven heat pump honestly. Bosch makes some popular products too. Those I just mentioned will be most efficient to operate, they may be more expensive to repair out of warranty but should be pretty reliable for 10-15 years+…
Super helpful. Is it possible you could recommend a company in or meat Bend OR? Or could I pay for the calculation - manual J etc. We are 3975' and on the east side of mountain range. Very similar to Denver (lived there long time ago) its 15%humidity except after a rain or wet snow. 9-11" of precipitation per year. I have to go west 40 miles and up to 6500' to the nearest ski slope It rarely rains during the dry season apr- december
Will work on this for you yes happy to find a referral, do you have a preference on system type? For heat pumps Mountain View, or Cascade, not sure if you’ve tried either of them but they’re both reputable
But if you want something specific like hydronics / boilers I’ll have to find a hydronics contractor for you. There’s actually a radiant contractor in the area I’ve spoken to before so if you need boiler work / hydronics let me know
@@TheHVACDopeShow Thank you much. We have such a hot new home building/construction market that it is really hard to get a contractor to seriously want to do a job let alone a thorough job in the Bend / Redmond area. It has just been smoking hot for new constructions for over 20 years... And not charge a huge premium. I am familiar with the two suggested contractors.. thanks So I have a 1980 manufactured home double wide with a small third "bump out" that has been filled in with new traditional construction ( now 36'x60') that is on a solid slab, siding removed and subsided with osb and tyvek and then cement board over that for the outside siding. The foundation is cement block. completely plumbed pex A, completely rewired, and sheet rocked walls. Ceiling still same 1980 material that is like the lowered ceilings of the 1970's early 1980's ( the old 2'x4' fiber board pieces?). The home has a new truss and roof over about 45% (over two of vaulted ceiling areas). Which greatly reduced the heat transferred through ceiling in the summer and i assume the opposite in winter. Old roof left in place wood sheathing only, asphalt shingles removed. Additional 6' rolled insulation over that. Additional venting of attic added... lots. Anyway we went from 7 cords of wood to 2.5 per year. We are definitely cooler than Denver on average but with out the extremes. very little below 14 degrees. The balance of home has an attic crawl space (pretty much all of the attic has a crawl space except one vaulted room 11.5 x 14') and i hope to put a new roof/roof joists over it to avoid ice dams and improve the efficiency. And all new windows vinyl double pane sealed with the rubberized flashing 4"tape. So I can do the electrical including the disconnect box (from the power distribution panel) on the outside for the condenser. But i really don't know what will be the most functional HVAC system. Its a central heating ducted system from 1980 that did have AC.(evaporator removed from inside of furnace box). It was not needed till the last 9 years ... mostly due to the wildland forest fires that are normal now for about two months in the summer. So we also need to install a fresh air intake that removes smoke! I assume a heat pump would greatly decrease the electric bill and provide a more uniform temp of 65 to 68 in the house? Winter is long and cold but not like the plains states used to be. Like 22 degrees to 39 degrees for about Dec to April and then cool at night and good during the day rest of year. Not sure if that helps but I hope this makes sense. Am 95% sure i will have to do system myself or just let the contractor replace my (idk) 2ton system with another 2ton system. I need to look at the size of the "Duo-Therm" model 300068-001 The label starts at 2 ton and goes up. Do not see a size but requires 41 element load amps on each circuit leg (2x) of course. Element load KW is 9.8 each. Seems like it would possible be more comfortable to keep the central heating system to get air to most of the rooms. I would just do a Mini split but extra zones for each of 3 bedrooms seems more expensive. The duct work is aluminum ... as you can hear it expanding when furnace is on in the winter. Any direction is greatly appreciated. Thanks, Paul Shonka
@@TheHVACDopeShow I am assuming the inverter heat pump like a Daiken fit may be the best for my dry cool/cold climate? I mainly need it for the winters and the AC when it is smokey. and the two or so weeks for over 90 degree weather. Thanks. Paul
I live in Fort Worth Texas. When I started calling around, asking about the Inflation Reduction Act and how I could take advantage of it, all I got was "I don't know". I watched all of your videos because they explained everything thoroughly. Everyone here is super resistant to switching to green alternatives of any kind. No matter who you call, local or state, all you will get is passive resistance. It is pretty frustrating to live in a state that is stuck in the civil war era for just about everything. It turns out that individual states have to apply to DOE for the IRA grants. Texas has not even applied. If you call the State Comptroller who is supposed to be administering the funds, they will hang up on you. I am a senior citizen so tax rebates are worthless to me. They are supposed to offer up to 100% for seniors and low income but nobody here knows how to get that. Do you? I found your website and phone number. I will call and ask.
For tax credits it’s a form applied for at tax time but for a point of sale rebate no and Colorado hasn’t gotten on board with it either in terms of how to administer that portion of the rebate. It’s not a refundable credit so I’m not sure how it differs for seniors but my understanding is it’s a form you submit at tax time but if you’re not paying taxes then it may not apply?
For the tax credits, have your system installed, then present your receipt to your accountant. Fort Worth here, solar and foam insulation, I've turned all my information over to my CPA and have received tax credits. Only one stuck in the civil war era is you.
West valley in Phoenix? Most efficient you can afford… if you really want a Trane the minimum efficiency I’d go for is the XV17, but for example my father in law has had the XV20i (they live in Scottsdale) and it’s been going strong for almost 20 years
I just bought a new 2024 double wide mobile home and it has a 96% energy efficient furnace. The problem which I didn't know at the time is that it is so efficient it lifts up our linoleum flooring all through our mobile home and creates large air pockets. I am not alone with this problem. Would you know why this would happen? And what can be done about it.... I should also mention that we were told to leave a window open a crack and this would help the situation... this doesn't work in -20 to -35 weather and that was the company's only solution
I don’t understand how that’s happening or why, that sounds like an issue with the home design. Unless they have a vent capped off by linoleum that’s causing the floor to bubble up from forced air ? I’ve never heard of anything like this being attributed to a furnace
Hi we are in need of replacing a 28 year old furnace for a 1996 Bi Level total sq ft 2500 we are seniors on a so called fixed income so payments would be prefered a furnace guy by us recommended a Weatherking 70,000 BTU single stage furnace what we need to know is are they reliable and a good brand ? what brand would you recommend and size we live in Vulcan Alberta Canada we also have already a 3-4 year old Air conditioner this is an investment for us so we want best bang for the buck so to speak but very reliable thank you so much and we look forward to your response cheers
A single stage 96% system (mandated minimum in Canada) will offer similar savings to a 96 two stage or 98% modulating. The only difference in upgrading is comfort not savings, savings is negligible between those units
You’re asking the Daikin dealer this so I will probably say yes Daikin 😁 lol but in all seriousness it depends on the unit. Certain types have their strengths like Mitsubishi makes some of the mini splits ductless system, and Daikin is right up there with them… but If you’re putting in basic / single stage furnace or AC equipment then just get a name brand because even Goodman or Payne or any basic name brand will be reputable and you’ll be able to get parts for it which is what matters
Not to be off subject, BUT U R a very handsome Man. Beautiful eyes! I know as much about hvac as a pro. I was in the biz for years, in sales. So I had to know, learn, and size systems. I did have hvac knowledge
Any time the government is involved with "inflation reduction", the consumer prices go up. Just like EV automobiles and the $7000 dollar tax credit and the EV vendors raising their electrical vehicle prices to absorb the costumer's tax credit, the price of heat pump installation sky rocketed to pocket that money as well. Am I wrong?
Everything has skyrocketed, inflation reduction is BS honestly, nothing is cheaper lol… your thought is Partly true but we didn’t bump our prices for it. Part of it is because of administrative overhead… some of the rebates in Denver require excessive filing, specifically Denver Cares and State of Colorado tax credit. My guess is we incur anywhere between $500-1000 of administrative overhead per filing just because of the amount of items we’re required to do, and we have to carry one of those rebates for the consumer until we file our taxes in 2025, but even if prices go up $1,000 to cover that administrative filing on $5000 worth of rebates at the end of the day it’s still a savings.
@thehvacdopeshow = I want to thank you for your videos. Super informative, how should I locate a viable contractor in Houston, Texas. I heard the most important item with the Daikin Fit is a contractor that is well-versed with inverter technology. Do you happen to install any surge protection while installing the Daikin Fit? Is there a separate wiring needed since the Daikin Fit requires a proprietary thermostat? What costs should I expect for a 4-ton Daikin Fit i know there are a myriad of variables just wanted to get a ballpark figure. Sorry for all the questions just trying to do some homework.
Yes we install surge protectors on every fit condenser, and yes we can help connect you with someone in Houston :) it’s hard to comment on costs since I’m not familiar with the market… I’ve heard wide swings all over the place so it really varies widely by region but if you submit a contact form on thehvacdopeshow.com we can connect you with a contractor in your area that’s familiar with the systems your looking for and can help get you more information on a Daikin Fit
