Good video ,there is the 3rd option where you have the corect size master and slave or calipers and fully manual brakes. Had a wilwood kit like that on a 4000 pound car and it had the best feel ive ever felt.
I’m doing a total restomod of my 70 Firebird, yes I’m doing the whole Ls and tranny swap, along with full suspension, and brakes to include the rear brake disc conversion. I’ve never liked the stock brakes even while driving it with the stock 350 two barrel, so when I found out about these boosters I completely felt like it was a game changer!
Thanks for your blatant hydro boost pitch. A pity perhaps, that you chose to avoid mentioning that low vacuum issues with warmer camshafts can be dealt with a simple vacuum can. Cheap, silent, usually easy to mount and have been used for decades. But not much profit in those compared to a hydro boost kit is there…
I have a 1956 Chevy with a454 using a mustang II rack can i you a hydro boost in my car, what is the GM power steering pump out put pressure for the hydro boost, what is the minimum i can use, mustang II rack needs about 800 to 1000 pounds, can i run the mustang II and the hydro boost with 800 to 1000 pounds of pounds
72 Chevy K5 Blazer. 90% of the items on the table sucked. I could not get the nose to dip on my K5. She just would not stop. Changed EVERYTHING! Then I tried the Hydraboost power steering system. It nearly threw me through the windshield. I never had another stopping issue, even when towing heavy loads.
Did you have any issues with the shaft length to the factory brakes? I'm putting this on my 72 K10 and seems the output shaft is too short. Pedal seems too low to the firewall.
I have the hydro boost system in my2500 Silverado I just want to learn more about the system so if the power steering goes out do I lose the brakes also
With most hydro boost (similar to vacuum powered brakes), if you loose power to the system (in this case power steering) you should have one or two brake pedal applications before all power assistance is lost. After that, the system reverts to "manual" (no power) system. You won't completely loose brakes but it your stopping distance and the pedal effort required to make a safe stop will be significantly higher. Keep an eye on the serpentine belt that drives the power steering pump
i have a k20 chevy automatic, im going from a booster to a hydrobooster and i’m just wondering if there’s any difference in the rod that hooks to the pedal, is there another bracket or is it just plug and play with the pedal?
Appreciate the explanation regarding the vacuum and boosting breaking system. One question that I have, considering there is only one power steering pump, can the hydro boost for the break and the power steering be connected on the same pump? Is this practical?
Another issue is if your car, like my 56 Chevy, does not have power steering, but has a big motor, and not much vac. Looks like manual brakes are my only choice. Disc on the front, drums on the rear, and a new manual master cylinder. Correct??
@@GrimRepair I did find it and the adapter mount, still need to get it installed, but waiting till after I do a solid axle swap, since I'll need to have the brakes bleed
@justintyme1449 After I put a 3000lb camper in my truck, the brakes seemed inadequate.It stops much better after I put in a hydroboost and moved the peg on the pedal.
Usually your vids are good and informative... but did you really just waste all this time with space and volume and appearance... and negate totally the DIFFERENCE in what each does? HYDRO stops you on a dime with very little pedal effort (and throws you through the window if not belted)... there... the Reader's Digest condensed you skipped.
