This may be an older video but I had my top piece reversed and was getting pretty frustrated. Was on the verge of ordering a new 500.00 wheel motor when I came upon this video. Did what you said and instantly had full power. Man, thanks a million, well thanks for saving me 500.00 and more frustration. you were right on the money.
I did have that problem. While assembling the hydro pump I did notice the mark but with only a 50% chance of getting it right I lost out. The pump of course did not work and just happened on your video, changed it around and it worked. Thanks a million, without that video I would have been lost. TG
I have just rebuilt my hydro pump on the left side of a scaggs tiger cub( 2007 ) the cap on top stays cold and the one on the right stays warm. Have tried bleeding it. I have switched the cap over to see if that was the problem I rebuilt everything on the pump but the bottom bearing and seal. And is still not working. Do you have any suggestions? Would be much appreciated.
their is a a bolt on the from that looks like you would put a hose their, with the engine running and wheels off the ground crack that bolt open slowly until only oil is coming out then tighting it. run the wheels forward and back and do it slow you may have to do this more then once.
hey I'm rebuilding my hydro gear pumps and it looks exactly like yours a 61 husqvarna problem is I can't find a part number anywhere on the pump I've already pulled out could u possibly tell me where I could find a seal kit and other parts for this specific mower or even a part number for the seal kit
I rebuild my pump and put it back together and bled it a few times and still whinning like before I even built it. It has a new wheel motor. Any suggestions?
I have a Husqvarna CZ4817 zero turn riding mower that I just replaced the drive belt and ty-rod. It worked fine for 12 hours of mowing (4 different times). I was mowing last night, went to use the right arm to back up and it would barely move backwards. It moves forward just fine and turns just fine. It just want back up on the right side. Left side works fine in all directions. Please ya’ll any ideas on what to look for, where do I start? Thank you so much in advance.
I am curious if you solved this problem. I haven't rebuilt anything, but my mower is exhibiting the exact systems you describe, (almost no reverse power on one side). Thanks, Jim
No I parked it for the winter. But now I am going to be working on it again. First thing I am going to do is pull off both wheels to make sure there is no string, rope or wire wrapped around anything. Then I am going to put a winch on mine to pull my axle slightly back into place. When the tie-rod broke I pulled it to my shop and the wheels look a little spread out. Like I warped them. So yours goes forward and turns fine? Just will not back up? Mine backs at a snails pace. There are also some adjusting bolts I am going to ticker with to see if that helps. Do you have your manual?It may give you some clues. If I figure it out I will let you know. If you figure it out you let me know please :) Everyone says buy a new transaxle at $900 or rebuild it at $400. If that is the case buying a new one will be my other option. Have you seen the video on rebuilding it. There are so many parts and you need a table 15' long to lay them out as they come off. Take a step by step video so you will know how to put it back together. I find it odd that there are not many videos on the issue of no back up power. Thanks Jim.
Lisa , I think I figured my problem out. Unfortunately, I don't think it will help you. My zero-turn mower has an independent pump-motor on each side, not a transaxle like you described above My pumps are Hydro-Gear model... Left Side: PJ-3HBQ-FV1F-XXXX Right Side: PJ-3KBQ-FV1F-XXXX I disassembled the left pump and found a broken 'B'-port check valve. A small stem was literally broken off and floating around in the pump endcap. Fortunately, I can't see any additional damage. The check valve I need to replace is... # PART # DESCRIPTION 42B 2510027 KIT, CHK VALVEKIT, CHECK VALVE (.031 ORIFICE) The best advice I can give you is to pull and inspect all readily accessible check valves. Replacing this check valve does not require the pump to be disassembled, and can probably be done in about 15 min's. Best regards, Jim
