surging rpms? hard start? No start at all? tried a bunch of things already? This will solve it Did this help you? Use my Amazon affiliate link for your shopping today. It really helps amzn.to/3ddXmlb
I have gone from not knowing how to change my own oil (no father in the home to teach me) to replacing head gaskets and brake lines because of total studs like you. thanks a million.
For all of those people out there who are scare of working and cleaning the throttle body, do it! You can do it! I was freaking scared to the point that I was throwing up due to how scared I was of doing something wrong but I was able to fixed it on my 2018 Corolla LE. Thanks for this video!
I went to the mechanics 5 days ago. Mechanics changed my cars engine fuel and then washed my car, and after few hours, my car stopped gaining the exact speed.. the same mechanics told me to buy catalytic converter which is for $1500 to $1700... I believe that while washing the car and changing the engine oil, they made a defect in my car intentionally...now when my car is neutral, it uses 1 gallon in almost 15 20 mins....can anyone suggest
Friend, I reset the electronic sensor of the accelerator pedal with my scanner, I finished the process, I started the car and the rpm was blocked, they were super unstable, I didn't know what to do, I was very worried, my car was not accelerating, until I magically came across your video and The question of opening the switch for 10 seconds and closing it for 10 seconds was magically reprogrammed, you saved my night I love you ❤️
I went to the mechanics 5 days ago. Mechanics changed my cars engine fuel and then washed my car, and after few hours, my car stopped gaining the exact speed.. the same mechanics told me to buy catalytic converter which is for $1500 to $1700... I believe that while washing the car and changing the engine oil, they made a defect in my car intentionally...now when my car is neutral, it uses 1 gallon in almost 15 20 mins....can anyone suggest
MY SUGGESTION. For preventative maintance I would not remove the throttle body. Buy a can of Mas air flow sensor / throttle body cleaner. Follow what the guy told you to remove the intake hoses from the air box to the throttle body. Spray on a clean microfiber towel. DO not spray directly onto the throttle body itself. Gently move the flap to expose all the crud and start cleaning. All the surfaces the flap comes into contact with including the flap itself front and back and the pipe. If you remove the throttle body you may need to replace the rubber O ring gasket. Some Vin numbers have them. So to avoid this snafu don't remove the thing..just clean it. Do the releasing procedure just like the video says.
@@BrandonActionJackson Hey man I got a push to start 2018 Hyundai Elantra Sport, last night I accidentally let off the clutch without applying enough gas while reversing and my car stalled. After i turned it on and parked, the car started having idle issues where the RPM goes below 1000 and goes up and down over and over again. Could you share the procedure to put the car in the learn mode after doing everything with the throttle body. thanks
BrandonAction Jackson, Thank you so much much for posting this video. I have been fighting with the same issue for the past few years on my 2015 Hyundia Elantra. I came across your videos on the exact same problem. Yesterday I removed my throttle body and cleaned out all the carbon build up. I threw everything back together and my car idles smooth with the AC on. Thanks again.
@@BrandonActionJackson hey Brandon my 2012 Hyundai Elantra is shutting off and stalling at red lights and turning into places , I figured it was the crankshaft position sensor so I changed it and it still stalls but not as much and now only when turning into parking spots or rarely at red lights , I never get no check engine light only the low engine oil pressure light , would you think it would be the throttle body needs cleanings ? We are changing the spark plugs and changing oil this week , I am thinking of cleaning the throttle body as well
@@adrianmendoza13600 you’re getting low oil pressure? That should not be related to the throttle body unless your Rpm’s are dropping extremely low but even then I’m not sure that would happen. It never hurts to clean the throttle body. But this could definitely be another issue
I am not so mechanically, so I wished you would have shown how to actually remove that part to clean. But the information was well taken! I will give it a try...Thanks!
Thank you!! Same issue in a Hyundai Elantra 2015 GLS Mexican version, wish I'd have found this video 2 years ago, not even in the 6 months service by the dealer were able to fix it.
My sons 2012 Elantra had same issues. First it threw a code for crank sensor which didn’t fix it. Then it threw a code for MAP sensor. We cleaned throttle body and it slightly improved. Finally saw a video for the purge control valve on an Accent. That fixed the problem immediately. It was stuck open. Hyundai part# 28910-2E000. Part was $34 at my local dealership.
Valve usually stuck open because fuel tank was overfilled and gas ran down the fumes only tube into the purge valve causing it to malfunction. NEVER top off your fuel tank. When the pump automatically shuts off don't try to round off to the nearest dollar.
@@Raphi when you hook up a OBDII scanner to your car you can pull the error codes the engine might "throw" when something is wrong... only indicator on the dash might be a check engine light but that doesn't always light up for all codes
My wife’s 2016 KIA Forte had the same issues. It would stall after starting when it was cold sometimes. Found out it was the throttle body that was dirty. Was cleaned and car acts better now. Same identical motor.
Bro, thank you so much!! I've read forums upon forums trying to figure out which route I was gonna go as far as troubleshooting. This works guys!! And it makes sense if you think about it.. The crankcase vent tube is redirecting gases (oil/air mixture) from the crankcase through the intake duct and uses the vacuum of the intake to draw it back into the intake manifold to get burnt off. This creates carbon build up around the butterfly valve inside the Throttle Body because the vent tube is position forward of it. When this build up dries, we can start our car when cold. When we drive the car and the crud heats up, it gets sticky and prevents the butterfly valve from opening during start up (unless we bump the gas pedal). Again much appreciated man.. 🙏 🙌
Hi Brandon, I am not sure if you still check this channel. You said not to remove the throttle body, essentially,we have to remove all the bolts in the throttle body, I am not sure if I understood. As much as I love my 2014 Turbo Veloster,things keep happening, but I am at 104.000 miles.
Love it . Loved your Jesus message of salvation. My 13 Elantra has been idling low. I thought it was throttle body but didn't know how to move the butter fly thing. The stick idea was brilliant. Thank you, I'll do it.
or just get some B-12 Chemtool Carburetor, Choke & Throttle Body Cleaner at Autozone and just leave everything intact and follow the directions on the can (spraying it into the air intake while the engine is idling)
I have been trying to solve this problem in my 2014 Accent for two years. This is fantastic. The reason it gets gummed up on the back is that the fumes that are recirculated through the canister enter right behind the plate. Never thought to clean the back.
I went to the mechanics 5 days ago. Mechanics changed my cars engine fuel and then washed my car, and after few hours, my car stopped gaining the exact speed.. the same mechanics told me to buy catalytic converter which is for $1500 to $1700... I believe that while washing the car and changing the engine oil, they made a defect in my car intentionally...now when my car is neutral, it uses 1 gallon in almost 15 20 mins....can anyone suggest
BrandonAction Jackson Thank you for the solution to my 2012 Hyundai Elantra Limited!!! Everything you described falls under my car's symptoms. Also can you send me the link for the relearn method for a push start Elantra. Thanks a million bro!!!
Phillip Washington press the start stop button 2 times without pressing the brake pedal.... wait 10 full seconds then turn off for atleast 10 seconds ... also If this helps let me know. Like and subscribe and feel free to click my amazon affiliate link in the description you can purchase anything you might normally get or plan to get and that will help me out. Thanks again
This worked perfect for my 2018 elantra. I was having surging rpms every time I came to a stop. I am an uber driver so I drive a ton of miles. I thought I was going to have to replace the compressor or the battery because it couldn’t handle the load anymore. I have to remember that my car isn’t brand new anymore so these things will come up once in a while.
@@tripler6099 the best thing I found to do was just unhook the battery and leave it off for at least 1 hour to completely drain all the life from the car so the computer system has to reboot. Hope this helps and God bless!
In the future the reason you should take it off to do it is so you do not drop anything down in the opening. It's also to make sure you don't over spray cleaner in there. Tip: NEVER guarantee it will fix anything...trust me.
I do have 2013 Hyundai Elantra with the same issue no engine light at all the problem was rpm on my car suddenly changed to very low speed on the road was 20 per miles the mileage on my car about 148000000 I didn’t change any sensor what I did I change throttle valve boy and PCV that all I did my car worked perfectly 😊😊😊😊
@@jlijahgarcia3307 not much I can help with really If I don’t know what it’s doing. Is the battery dead? Are the connections loose? Did it have a check engine light before hand?
@@BrandonActionJackson it’s like everyone else for me to drive it I got hold on the gas when I come to a stop it stops and I got hold on the gas to make it drive agian
I have the same problem, but only when its 0 degrees, and raining. It starts but sputters and rpm fluctuates low .If I touch gas pedal, rpm rises to almost 2000 rpm .For cold mornings which is normal.Dealer mechanic changed everything like you said in your video. But the problem came back also
I think this is the issue I’m having right now! But mine Hyundai is a push start. Do you mind to give your email or either answer this comment section to know how to do the throttle body thing?
Brandon Jackson, can you please help me out with my 2014 hyundai elantra. I've had this problem for a very long time now, the engine's rpm fluctuate below 1000 rpm at idle speeds or idling, and stalls when car slows down idle speed whiles driving. Please help me out with a solution if there's any.. Thanks.
almost smae problem as me, hyundai tucson ix35 GLS, rpm drop to stall when coming to stop. and then every i start the engine, engine start but not idle, rpm eventually drop and off again, start the engine again, same things happened, engine started but rpm goinback to zero/off again, one way to keep the engine running is only taping the gas pedals to holding rpm for not dropping, same as yours?
Car was fine I changed my spark plugs and coils now I get misfires and rpm serges, on brand new oem coils, plugs.. so frustrated guess I’ll try this next and update
@@reggiestewart6976 bro mine is doing this right now and I’ve done everything! The pcv valve did help but no luck. I’m thinking clogged cat o2 sensor and collapsed fuel line. It’s a 16 Veloster Turbo. So hey yeah if something work plz let me know. Mine only surges on 1st at idle really
I have cleaned the throttle body. It seems like there is still a slight line of carbon. I used a toothbrush and scrub pad and nothing else comes off. It seems flush but the issues are still occurring. Not sure what I should do now?
throttle body is one of several parts for all of these types of issues he eluded to with cam sensors, also map sensor, spark plugs, spark plug coils, O2 sensors, air filter, the PCV... so could be a few more things
My car idles rough and sometimes below 6k when ac or any power even radio turns on and off. How much do you think a mechanic will charge if I dont want to do this myself?
Brandon Jackson yeah a couple weeks passed I got tired of my car dying on me. The the code for the crankshaft popped up on the odb. Replaced the part and I’ve been running smooth since
kammi risper press the start button two times without depressing the brake pedal for atleast 10 seconds then turn off for atleast 10 seconds this procedure allows the ecm to automatically learn the throttle valve position
Please help me, I have a 2013 elantra. Some few days ago, I had the check engine light on and took it to my mechanic. He told me its the crankshaft position sensor. I got it replaced but the car still starts and dies. It jerks as well and also when started the rpm cursor is on zero.
Deejay ray Ventures does it still have the check engine light? Are you sure he said crank shaft and not cam shaft? If the sensor is replaced and it was a crankshaft not camshaft it could very well be a dirty throttle body
@@BrandonActionJackson Naa he said its Crankshaft, even today he asked me to change the spark plugs which I did but still not working as it used to. Please should the throttle body be removed?
Deejay ray Ventures it definitely wouldn’t hurt. Just remove the throttle body I cleaned it without taking it loose from the coolant line going to it I just unbolted it and cleaned it with carb cleaner. On the engine side you will see black carbon build up and on the air box side you may see a little but it will look fairly clean
Hi there I’m unable to get the link at the moment. Scroll down the comments and see a Phillip Washington. I wrote out the relearn procedure in a reply to him. I’m on a mobile app and can not copy and paste it to you. Hope this helps. Thanks please subscribe to my channel and give this video a thumbs up
That’s unusual to have it that fast again. Does he use it in eco mode? If so try it without and make sure yoy get it all out cleaning it from the backside if it’s truly dirty it’s going to be some tough hard carbon on the backside that will take some elbow grease to scrub away
I have one that starts hard, then wants to stall when you come to a stop, or sometimes just from getting off the gas. It will start back up, but it wants to stall at idle. Had the same problem a year ago, I replaced the fuel pump and it was fine. I replaced the fuel pump again a few days ago, but this time no effect. Engine light on, throws map code. Throttle body was clean. New plugs, insulated the fuel line. idk what to do now.
I find this out awhile back once you clean the throttle body. You will need to take it to someone or buy a scan tool that can reset the adaptive values after cleaning the throttle body.
@@micahhill4786 To clear the adaptives you pull the battery cable for 10 mins, so al the residual charge bleeds off the capacitors, this will clear your adaptives when a scan tool is not around. Also clears DCT adaptive too.
I went to the mechanics 5 days ago. Mechanics changed my cars engine fuel and then washed my car, and after few hours, my car stopped gaining the exact speed.. the same mechanics told me to buy catalytic converter which is for $1500 to $1700... I believe that while washing the car and changing the engine oil, they made a defect in my car intentionally...now when my car is neutral, it uses 1 gallon in almost 15 20 mins....can anyone suggest...plllzzzzzzz its only 33000 miles 😢😢😢😢
My sisters 2015 elentra is surging at cruising speeds. Not all the time.. how dirty was your throttle body mate? Mine wasnt bad but my dad cleaned it anyways.
I have that issue that my brakes become hard and can't break. I put the car in parking after using emergency brakes and the rim goes to 4 to5 000 and im not even touching the gas and brakes just stay hard. Turn car off once or twice and goes away idk if it's the senor of throttle or throttle is clogged or dirty
I have cleaned my throttle body for the second time and my car is doing EXACTLY this with no codes warning/engine lights been going on for almost 6 months! 4 mechanics later including the dealer who had my car for 4 full days and still NO ANSWERS to want my problem is or how to fix it!!! What is the relearn procedure for a push start Hyundai Elantra?
Did you solve the problem?? I'm having the same issue, cleaned the throttle body, changed pov valve, map sensor, spark plugs, ignition coils, then I decided to change the throttle body and install a new one, and nothing. Now it threw a P0106 code for the MAP sensor, but l installed a new one. Idk what else to do
I just did this to my vehicle and after 5 minutes of driving it turn on the check engine light, Which it never had on. Can you help tell me why it went on and how I could turn it off?
I tried on a 2015 Elantra 1.8, and there is a red o-ring on the intake manifold where the TB connects, and there appeared to be a remnant of a black gasket/ring/or some sort of RTV on the back of the TB. I cleaned it, but didn’t seem to fix the problem. Was the black ring actually a ring like gasket? Mine looks like it might have been peeled off
Matthew Fultz these was an actual o ring behind the throttle body that sat inside a slot. How well did you clean it? Your throttle body should be completely clean no black reminants inside the throttle body
Hey I have a 2013 Hyundai Tucson Limited 2.4 and mine is doin pretty much the same thing except for mine is doin a intermittent start and occasionally getting off the interstate will run really rough like a dead cylinder and die and mine also threw a code for the map sensor P0106 replaced a map sensor and spark plugs seems to be running a little rough but not really surging and is also pushbutton start and with it doing the intermittent start spins over but won’t crank if you press the button again to stop it and then press it to start it again it fires right up Any thoughts?
What causes the engine to vibrate when the rpm is installed at 1500 rpm in a 2009 Sonata while parking, although I have checked it with the devices many times and I have not found a solution and sometimes it has double torque while driving.. Almost at a speed of 80 km
@@YusinPonsMinistry press the start stop button 2 times without pressing the brake pedal.... wait 10 full seconds then turn off for atleast 10 seconds ... also If this helps let me know. Like and subscribe and feel free to click my amazon affiliate link in the description you can purchase anything you might normally get or plan to get and that will help me out. Thanks again
My mom's car is dying at slow speeds, about 12-15 mph if you hold the gas pedal down/rpm's at 1,100 RPM. So, if you're almost coasting and barely pushing on the gas it'll die/stall. Can these cause that? She has the push button start, could you email me the re-learn procedure for push-button? I'll try to find your email here in a minute....my email may go to your junk filter so please check the junk filter, my email address is numbers/letters so it's gets thrown out a lot.
i drive a 2012 hyundai elantra and i took a 7 hour drive yesterday. drives fine this morning but starts acting up when it’s time to go to work. my RPM’s are shooting high at low speeds. can’t even drive it around the block and ion know what to search on how to fix it or even what to search to figure out why it’s driving like that.
Did you solve the problem?? I’m having the same issue, cleaned the throttle body, changed pcv valve, map sensor, spark plugs, ignition coils, then I decided to change the throttle body and install a new one, and nothing. Now it threw a P0106 code for the MAP sensor, but I installed a new one. Idk what else to do
I have a 2015 Elantra with 90,000 miles and it will stall at stop lights, stop signs and in traffic. It happens after 10 minutes or so of driving, when my car is warm. The vehicle starts right back up with no issues. I replaced my battery, (tested bad) alternator (bad barrings) and spark plugs however the problem is still occuring. Before replacing the alternator I was getting a low voltage reading and now I am not. I have checked the fuel pressure, values and listened to the fuel pump which all sound normal. All my fuses are good and lines. I have NEVER had a check engine light on or thrown a code. I was told to replace my fuel filter. PLEASE HELP Thank you so much
I'm trying to learn all I can. I just bought me a 2013 Hyundai Elantra and every now and then if my foot is on the break or put in park while still running my car would hesitate or shut off while standing still. PLEASE HELP ME 😭😭😭😭😭😭😭 I wish I could see a step by step video. Idk how to do it but I'm willing to try.
@@BrandonActionJackson For others who may have the same problem but are desperate to resolve it. I found out that the timing chain has jump. To this check have the valve cover removed and see if the timing marks on the cam gears gets a chance to line up while rotating the crank shaft. for my case the intake drifted a tooth. I installed a new tensioner just to make sure since the old one seems to be weak at the same time new water pump. After correcting the timing the trouble goes away. This fault does not show a check engine or a code on my OBDII scanner. There are other vids that shows how to do the timing. Good luck...
My car is stalling when slowing down, at red lights, backing up. Usually when turning and at speeds under 15-20mph. It has been to the Hyundai dealer 5 times this year with two times being for the stalling. I had the crankshaft sensor replaced- no fix. Hyundai then kept my car for three days and stated that they needed to inquire and bring in a sr tech. Hyundai where I live has very little rental cars and was not able to give me one so after it sitting for 2 more days I just went up to pick it up. Could you reach out to me? I have a few questions and will be taking it to a local mechanic (not Hyundai) to see but want to make sure I tell him everything I think it would be
My mom's 2016 Elantra is doing this, too. I've read forums where Hyundai has a stalling-issue problem and when it starts this stalling stuff it can be hard to figure out. My mom's dealer had her car for two days and could not figure it out. No trouble codes, etc...it just dies. I'm curious to see if anyone replies here that has run into this issue and maybe they can help us both out!
@@Mackenzie.Grant95 I've been working on my mom's car for a week now. I started with the easy stuff like checking the air filter, loose wires, melted wires, etc. No luck there so I've been reading every forum out there with people having the same type of issues and I don't know how many videos. What I can say is this, it's a possibility of about 10 different things and nobody has been able to pinpoint the problem yet. Each person has a different symptom, problem or "fix" and since the car doesn't show an engine error code then people are literally left guessing as to what the problem is. The dealer even had my mom's car, put it on diagnostic machine and test drove it and still couldn't tell us what was wrong. So, I've been cleaning sensors. I tested and cleaned both PPV sensors, cleaned both intake/exhaust cam shaft sensors and today I cleaned the MAP sensor. Then today when I was test driving it again the car acted up again and died. FINALLY...after a week of dying the check engine light came on which in a way is a good thing because now it will finally show an engine error code. I drove it to O'Reilly Auto Parts and hooked up their code reader and it said camshaft position sensor circuit B. The O'Reilly's auto part guy pulled that code up in the computer and says that's the exhaust side cam shaft position sensor, but he had to order one and it won't get here until Wednesday. So right now I'm playing the waiting game to see if the camshaft position sensor really is the issue or not. The only other thing I was going to try was to clean the throttle body. Thing is, the throttle body has a gasket so I tried to find one of those today and none of the auto stores have those either, they'd have to order one. So, I ordered one of the gaskets, too, just in case the camshaft sensor isn't the problem. I might not have to replace that gasket, but figured if I was going to take it off I might as well replace the gasket. I did find a video where one guy had a problem with a vapor canister. Another video a mechanic found the low gas pressure was not holding pressure and he found a bad o-ring in the fuel pump. (No engine codes on this either!) This is why it's so hard to figure out. Some people have some problems and other people have other problems, especially when the car is not showing an engine error code. I have no idea why today I finally got an engine error code after it dying the entire week and not showing a code. If the cam shaft sensor I ordered doesn't fix it Wednesday I'm going to try to clean the throttle body, then if it's still not working I'm going to see if I can have someone check the fuel pressure. Also, I don't know if this is true or not, but I did read this in one of the forums...it's saying low transmission fluid can cause a car to die because the torque converter won't be able to do it's job properly if the fluid is low, or something similar to that. The thing is with the 2016 Hyundai Elantra, like my mom's, the cars don't have transmission fluid dip sticks to check the level of fluid. So dumb! So, there's a bolt underneath the car a person has to loosen (it doesn't come all the way out) then if the transmission fluid is low no fluid will come out. A person needs to add transmission fluid then when fluid starts to drip out of that bolt then it's full. I don't know how the torque converter stuff works and all that, but that's what I read somewhere. Long story short, if I was you I'd keep driving it and letting it stall and hopefully you can get your check engine light to finally come on so you can hook it up to a code reader. I wouldn't take guesses at parts though. After reading the forums and stuff I bought my mom a new crankshaft position sensor ($100.00) and put it in....still not the problem so you can spend a lot of money in a hurry if you guess. I'd try to get that engine light to come on and see what a code reader says. I will let you know what happens Wednesday when I put the new cam shaft position sensor in. P.S. (haha) Another thing I read about is a piston slap known in Hyundai's. Try to read up on that and see if you can hear an ticking that shouldn't be there. I saw one video where a guy had to have part of his engine rebuilt because of a piston slap.
@@douglasbollinger3626 THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR THE REPLY! I'm going to take your advice and keep on driving it until eventually a code pops up. Ill keep my code reader in the car. It only ever happens seldom when the car is just about to come to a complete stop, and only when it's warm. I like sloving problems but when the damn car doesn't give you even the slightest idea on witch direction to head it can drive a guy alittle mad!! Haha anyways looking forward to your update man and I'll inform you if anything changes with my 16 Elantra. Mine is the 1.8l with only 79,000kms
@@Mackenzie.Grant95 You're welcome! My mom's is the 1.8L with 85,000 miles. I hope you can get a code to pop up. I'm not sure why a code finally (after a week) showed up today on her car. I was driving it around trying to make it stall again to see if the MAP sensor I cleaned was the issue or not. I wish I knew what I did today to get that code to come on. I think it was trying to stall (makes a pingy-rattling-type noise when the engine is trying to die) so I let it die a couple times then I tried to fight it a couple times by pressing on the gas some. It fully died when that code came up though. Also, I learned that Hyundai has proprietary software on their car computers so my mom's regular mechanic could not get a reading on the computer. You are right, this is enough to drive a person insane! I'll let you know what the new camshaft position sensor does. If you get a code to show up on your car please let me know what it says and stuff...keep me posted! I'll do the same! Someone has got to figure this out!
Hello, last night I cleaned throttle body hyundai elantra 2013 but still my RPMs up and down but and my check engine light is on now what you think it's a problem I hope you can help me?
What is the code it’s definitely not from cleaning your throttle body. I’d say it’s probably a map sensor code. Are you sure you properly cleaned your throttle body?
I’m having these same EXACT problems I’m hoping this works! My check engine light is on but its telling me MAP and IAT sensors if ANYBODY could help I would gladly appreciate it.
My 2017 has occasionally a rough idle , did kick misfire on number 2 cylinder replaces coil stop the problem for. While now it’s rough idling occasionally but not kicking out any codes?