Well I've watched several people do versions of this and yours has been the most thorough . Top idea putting zip ties around the belt and cam pulley to stop it moving. Also nice detail on getting the timing dots lined up properly.
Thank you for your video. It was quite helpful. One thing that I did that might help others, is that when I went to put the 2 pulleys back onto the water pump, I cut off the heads of 2 bolts and screwed them into the water pump to give a place for the pulleys to hang. Once I got the bolts in place for the 2 open holes I removed the ones with the cutoff heads and placed those bolts. In that tight space, it made it significantly easier.
Thank you very much for taking the time and effort to make these videos, they really helped me understand how to make these repairs! The Hanyes/Clymers manuals don't give any of the details you really need to know as you do here, so without seeing a demonstration, I'm sure I'd wouldn't have made my belt changes properly. After I made my replacements I took a trip from MN to Idaho-over 4000 miles both ways with no troubles at all.
List to Print for Reference While Doing This Job: 1) remove - batt terminal. 2) Remove wheel & splash shield (2- 10mm bolts). 3) Alternator adjuster 12mm. Lower Alt nut (next to oil filter) 12mm. Tension off adj w 12mm. Take belt off (note: I forgot to loosen bolts on H2O pump pulley b/f taking belt off. Had to hold it w channel locks when loosening bolts). 4) Pwr steering pump. 14mm. Upper & lower loosen. Take belt off. 5) AC belt tensioner pulley w adjuster 12mm. 14mm in center. Take belt off. 6) Crank. 22mm impact wrench (or look up trick with starter - had to do bc elect impact wouldn't do it). Puller - take pulley off. 7) b/h crank pulley - 2- 10mm bolts for lower timing cover. (1 bolt will have to wait). 8) Support engine with wood under jack on oil pan. 9) Engine mount. 3- 14mm and a 17mm. But Phillips head on pwr steer reservoir - remove. 2 10mm bolts for bracket. 10) 6- 10mm bolts upper timing cover remove. 11) Remove lower timing chain cover. 12) 4- 10mm bolts. Water pump pulley. 13) put bolt back in crank shaft and turn to line up timing marks above (camshaft - small hole at top) & below (crank mark slightly left from top). 14) belt tensioner & idler pulley 14mm. Take off timing belt. 15) Drain anti freeze. 16) 12mm bolts for bracket. (2 more bh pwr steering pulley). 12mm bolts holding water pump. Tap on water pump to break free & release anti freeze. Clean gasket off. (17-19 ft lbs on water pump. Snug all, then alternating torque pattern). 17) Replace camshaft & crank shaft seal if desired. 18) put idler pulley back. 25-30 ft lbs. ck timing marks. Put on belt. Tensioner 14mm - tighten with 5mm hex, then tighten 14mm). 38 ft lbs (I couldn't get a torque wrench I. There o. These, so "tight"). 19) start car for 1 or 2 seconds (should fire right up). Put back together. (I found I needed all new belts ). Hope this helps someone. I took notes and had a greasy pc of paper in my hands & it helped a lot.
Thanks man just did mine yesterday but there's a chirping sound. I suspect my timing belt is too tight. It's like a humming or whining that gets louder with engine. Any ideas please by chance?
Hi, my name is Gildasio, I live in Brazil, in Fortaleza, I have a Kia Cerato 2006 need to replace the belts and got no mechanic who could do the job. watched over two hundred videos and find none with changing belts Kia Cerato 2006 .. was watching your videos I learned and I will trade even the straps of my car. Congratulations on your 03 videos were very good, didactic, scored top marks to you, big hug my friend.
Thanks for your awesome video again! It had a lot of pointers the other one I watched (which is great as well) didn't include. I would have forgotten about that bolt on the bottom of the alternator that you mention at the end as well. One more thing I did on top of this that only takes a few minutes is change the thermostat. Might as well while you're at it, I figured. Now to put coolant in and test run. Fingers crossed I don't destroy this engine ;)
You stated the year make and model but not the engine size. I was wondering if this is the same engine that is in my 2004 Hyundai Sonata base model, which had the 2.4L 4 cylinder engine. Could you please post back if this is the same engine? Thank you and also wanted to say great job tutorial, well done.
i watched it twice and now feel more confident. i have never done this before but with this guidance i can not go wrong. i am looking for guidance on the fuel pump and filter replacement of the 2006 hyundai matrix 1.6 dohc. there are lots of instructions for elantras,getzes,accents etc but nothing specific to the matrix. now i dont know if some of the others have the same setup or not. can you please help by pointing me in the right direction. i have spent three days searching and still none the wiser. Martin Brandt ps thanks again, your vide is going to save me R4800.00. M
Such a nice video. Have a little doubt about the timing belt adjustment part. I will say a very confident work done by you and never created any confusion in viewers mind. Thank you so much. I am going to do this job on my car. Mine is 200k and engine is very noisy. Do you suggest something to reduce the noise.
The only annoying part to me was taking off those tiny pulley bolts off/on (I actually used locking pliers to keep the pulley from moving because I was by myself) and scraping that gasket off with a razor
Great vide im doing it the same on my 2006 kia spectra but i have a question i set the camshaft on position but the crankshaft was moved a little bit one tooth before the mark what do you suggest? Should i move only the crankshaft to the mark or leave it like that
I think you should be fine but it also depends on your air gun. But if you can get it off with your setup generally speaking you can get it back on and have it tightened down with enough torque. gl
10 years later and this video is still helping people like me. Appreciate the thorough walk through. For loosening the plate attached to the water pump if you've already removed the belt you can use the old belt to wrap around it again, hold it tight with one hand and slip in a socket with extension to loosen the bolts. Also if you don't have an impact driver for loosening the nut on the camshaft attach a breaker bar with the 22mm socket wedged against the ground and hit the ignition to turn over. This will loosen the nut.
hello! i want to do this job on my '03 elantra (1.6L) and i want to ask if i have to remove the engine mount and the brackets in order to remove the timing belt upper cover?
Great video!.Im about to replace timing belt on a tiburon 2008 2.0l.I also have the pdf out of car manual.Just by reference, the tightening torque of idle and tensioner pulley is 43-55 Nm/32-41 lb.ft for those interested and deflection of the belt is 4-6mm/ 0.16-0.24in / Tension 2kg(20N).Thanks for the video
You said the timing belt is tight but not rock solid. Rock Solid is my pornstar name. Great video. You are an excellent mechanic. I hope someone is paying you well, if not you should find someone who will.
Very good point on not over tightening the timing belt. To torque down the crank pulley there are an assortment of special tools that either grab it by wrapping around it or there is a special tool by Hyundai that uses the holes in it to keep it in place. I have always used my impact without any problems, but your way is the next most common way of doing it, also if you have a manual you can usually jam something on the teeth of the flywheel to keep it in place.
Great video, i always change crank and camshaft seals on a job like this, usually find if their not leaking when i pull it down they will start leaking down the track a bit which means practically doing the whole job again except for the water pump.
Thanks for the upload.. very informative. I especially like how you skip/fast forward through little things like removing individual bolts. I'm sure it's a lot of work on your part editing the videos but we appreciate it! I will be replacing the timing belt soon, I was hoping I wouldn't have to replace the water pump but I think I should since all of the work to get to it is already done
I recommend taking off that big engine mount to get some more room to work at the old gasket. Its the 3, 14mm bolts. Much easier to access the area to clean off the old gasket.
I have a 30g 2hp air compressor, you can always use the starter to loosen it and tighten is with your impact enough to drive to a shop to have them tighten again for you. gl
@Ratchts And Wrenches The crank pulley moved a little bit (1 tooth) off the alignment mark while putting the new belt on, no idea how that happened, both were aligned perfectly prior to install the new belt. The cam though hasn’t moved at all (still you can see the red mark through the hole) I know I am in trouble now! Because if get the belt off and move the crack pulley separately I am going to bend the valves for sure. please advice
@Mohd Raw what ended up happening. I think you could've individually moved the gear back in place but not through a full revolution but just simply back a couple clicks to where you were. My issue isn't the timing alignment but a whining or chirping sound now
I do have elentra 2001 dohc 2.0.my engine is so dirty and alot sticky oil inside i did oil change with flush and new oil filter its been 2600km im about to change oil again . There are no good mechanics and tools in my country its also coast alot to tear down and clean. Any advice should i let go amd change oil in time or it has to be clean at any time?
Fantastic that you gave up one of your own hands to document this. It was very complete and insightful. Thanks for taking the time to record this for us all.
we just purchased a 2005 with only 63,000 miles. I am going to change the timing belt. With only 63000 miles do i need to replace the timing belt tensioner and pulley? BTW great tutorial!
I installed by miself but i installed wrong the CEL went on and the car has lack of power.. now iam trying to align the notches on the cam and crank but they dont match at all now.. help me out please!!
They told me not to try this without a timing belt locking kit, as I will never be able to line up the belt on a dohc engine. Now I am thinking again to take this on..
Great tutorial vid. I just tackled this on a 2005 Elantra I just bought for the kids. It had 230k on original belt. One question for you, after completed the car runs great but I have a P0016 code for cam/crank correlation. I didn't touch anything else do you have any idea what happened? Thanks again!
While putting the last tensioner pulley, I realized that the crank pulley moved a little bit (1 tooth) off the alignment mark while the cam hasn’t moved at all(still you can see the red mark through the hole) please help!!! How can I realign the crank pulley to where it was?
I've done two, and am about to do a third, the first time about 6 hours(1.5 hours of cursing the engineer that made working conditions so tight). The second was about 5 hours. I have changed many timing belts(mitsubishi), personally I stop at getting the water pump gasket surface clean, and get lunch, then come back to it, double check timing marks, install new belt, and tensioner, and take a break. Then it's about 2 hours to finish. Good luck
Watch out people. This video did not show you how to properly tighten the timing belt tensioner. There is a procedure...you dont just guess at the tension.
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At the lining up part after i turned my cam shaft top dead center, my crank isn't lined up do can i turn the crank alone ? Or how does one get it to line up
You should be turning the crankshaft bolt to align with the mark on the lower engine cover. The camshaft marks should be aligned at this point. If not, they shouldnt be more than 1 tooth off. Once the belt is off, yes, you can rotate the crankshaft or camshaft independently.
just did a 2012 i30 timing belt, almost exact same procedure, just the tensioner was different, Brilliant video thank you, just tightening the crank pulley is a challenge
This fall I'll verify this video on my Sportage G4GC engine. Video seems to be clear and helpful. As to timing tension - information from G4GC engine mechanical manual says about procedure, which could help other: 1. Rotate crankshaft in regular direction through angle of two teeth (18 degrees) 2. Set tension as said in movie and tight tensioner bolt 3. Check tension by pulling belt with force approx 2kg - timing belt cog end sags in approx 4-6mm.
Awesome vid. Did a belt on my 98 Kia Sephia after it shredded, now have to do my 05 Elantra (preventative ;). After about a week of driving and running great it developed a knock like a bolt was being struck by the webbing of a pulley yet I could never find anything. Anyways, some other things broke and decided to scrap it never finding what was wrong. Some say it is and some say it isn't an interference engine, my guess is I bent a valve or it dropped. Again, great vid!
hi friend excelent video, I have a cuestion for ya, How can I take off the bolt from damper, I have not impact pistol, can you give any sugest thank you
wow! that seems so intricate ... so glad that newer elantra models have timing chains instead... what a loss of money to replacing it every 100 000 kms 😕
You can't depend on service records nor the mechanical knowledge of the previous owner nor how a timing belt 'looks' (there's tensioners too). If the odometer shows any multiple of the service interval, replace everything. Interference engines suck.
I know Im randomly asking but does any of you know of a method to log back into an instagram account? I somehow lost the login password. I appreciate any assistance you can offer me.
@Edison Tanner Thanks so much for your reply. I found the site thru google and I'm trying it out now. I see it takes a while so I will get back to you later with my results.
Thank you so much for this. Just got an 05 with 70k and I think this will be my second timing belt change, first for this car. Info was great, camera work was fantastic and clear in 720p. With this vid playing on my phone, I'm confident I can get this done myself. You're the man!
can't you damage the mating/mounting surface of where the water pump goes using the angle grinder to remove the leftover gasket material? I could see if you used a liquid gasket after doing that to get any imperfections. but you had a flat gasket. keep up the great videos
Remember guys you have to TWERK those bolts lol Seriously though you have saved my family hundreds of $$ , possibly thousands over the years of videos. Bless you sir
really good video\!! I went through this couple of years ago on my wife Tucson. On this engine is critical to have the proper tension.As my first timing belt job I over tighten the belt which resulted on a very whining engine. After loosen it a little bit was OK, The other point that I wanted to see and is not on the video is to torque down the crank pulley. In my case I jammed a screwdriver from the pulley opening to the block. I was wondering if there was another way to do it. Thanks
Very nice job on the video. I have personally replaced timing belts on other vehicles, and your attention to even the smallest details was great. Good job!
Why replace the water pump while doing this service? The timing belt MUST be REMOVED to replace the water pump. So if your water pump fails you will have to remove the timing belt AGAIN to replace the water pump. Spend the extra $60 and replace the pump while you are in there (There is a reason the Timing belt, pulleys, and pump are sold as a kit).
Very high quality video. Did your tensioner have some sort of a pin hole to lock it in place? The factory guide mentions this but is thin on the details - I'm not really clear on what to do with that
