My longest trip with my classic Ioniq was 2000 km in 3 days from Slovakia to Finland via Baltic countries with 20 stops as it was in winter at -5'C and strong headwind all the time. No problems at all! Average consuption was 16,8 kWh/100km and price of electricity 63 Eur ;) Ioniq for the win! :)
@@eyadmubarak9936 i did an obd test about a year ago and the result said 100%.To be completly honnest it feel's like i lost maybe like 15 km on the gessometer.So i dont know.
I bought a 2017 Ioniq because of your excellent videos. It truly is a great car. I can coast at 120kms/hr and it sips the electrons compared to my last ev.
On forums and EV groups that I'm in, Ioniq 28 owners say on long trips to run the AC at full blast while charging, windows up and recirculating. That way battery is pulling in coldest cabin air possible.
This is definitely the way to go with HPC charging. Full Power AC at lowest temperature, open only the rear ventilation outlets and have some kind of tunnel between ventilation and rear seats. Did this last weekend on a trip from Hamburg to Munich. With this cooling it is possible to hold max temperature below 51 and this is the key to >60 kW charging power. Otherwise you'll get 30 kW. And also do this while driving to the next HPC to get max temp below 36.
That is so weird. We drove 1200 km from Poland all the way through Germany to the Dutch border in summe of 2022. One of the hottest days of the year, almost 40°C. Full car, 4 people. We never saw the charging speed dropping below 60 kW and even though I did not monitor it, I certainly didn't notice limited power. The fan was running on full speed, sure, and we made sure that the air inlet was not blocked, but thats it. After 40 000 km with the Ioniq 28 I never managed it to rapidgate even a little bit. So for me it's really weird seeing something like 57 kW on a HPC.
I am thinking of replacing my electric car with a petrol car and have some questions. 1. I have heard that petrol cars cannot refuel at home while you sleep? How often do you have to refill elsewhere? Is this several times a year? Will there be a solution for refueling at home? 2. Which parts will I need service on and how often? The car salesman mentioned a box with gears in it. What is this and will I receive a warning with an indicator when I need to change gear? 3. Can I accelerate and brake with one pedal as I do today with my electric car? 4. Do I get fuel back when I slow down or drive downhill? I assume so, but need to ask to be sure. 5. The car I test drove seemed to have a delay from the time I pressed the accelerator pedal until it began to accelerate. Is that normal in petrol cars? 6. We currently pay about 1.2p per mile to drive our electric car. I have heard that petrol can cost up to 10 times as much so I reckon we will lose some money in the beginning. We drive about 20,000 miles a year. Let's hope more people will start using petrol so prices go down. 7. Is it true that petrol is flammable? Should I empty the tank and store the petrol somewhere else while the car is in the garage? 8. Is there an automatic system to prevent gasoline from catching fire or exploding in an accident? What does this cost? 9. I understand that the main ingredient in petrol is oil. Is it true that the extraction and refining of oil causes environmental problems as well as conflicts and major wars that over the last 100 years have cost millions of lives? Is there a solution to these problems? Enjoy the irony, and don't get your panties in a bundle ;)
Wondering what happens when you put some really powerful fans (aka Blowimatron from LTT) on the battery intake. Would be really a great test - if you do it I sponsor the fans
I love to drive long trips in my Hyundai Ioniq 28kWh. My longest trip in the EV, was some years ago, when I and a freind drove from Copenhagen to the Geneva motorshow. 2x1600km in a long weekend with 1 day driving each way and one day at the motorshow. It was a very nice trip and the car just performed with high charging speed at all charging stations. Never any problems. We mostly drove 110-120km/h, but sometimes (in Germany where it is alloved) we drove max speed 166km/h (175km/h on the speedometer). What I specialy love about Ioniq 28kWh is, that it always charges with high speed, regardless if it is hot or cold or regardless how many km it have driven in the trip. And It dont waste energy to heat the battery.
Peugeot e-208 has had a big improvement to its charging curve in the latest software updates so that it charges faster to a higher SoC. I think it should easily be able to beat that Ionic now using only HPCs.
I own a e-208 and I can confirm that on an Ionity charger It dips below 50 kW at 82-84% which gives you about 160 Km of range on pure-highway speeds. It takes about half an hour for it to reach from 15%.
@@Id3fornow... Hard to tell at the moment as only had it updated a couple of weeks ago and the weather has been really warm. Default range for a full battery is now showing over 200 miles and averaging well over 4 miles per kWh at the moment. I suppose the range anxiety only kicks in on a long journey if you can't charge quickly - So being able to charge faster to higher states of charge is a big improvement. Look at Audi, thirsty but quick to charge.
@@Id3fornow... Wow, I'm surprised about that. I get way more than that even in the middle of winter before the update. The only drawback I found is the Motorway range at higher speeds. But even that is offset by the new update because you can charge really quickly to approx 85% now, especially if on a 100kw+ charger.
Thanks for making this vid! Great car! IMO best result when you adjust for price. I don't mind that long drives takes a little extra when I can save big bucks :-D My daily commute of 130 km is no problem even in cold Danish winter (minus 10C+snowy roads).
Awesome video, thanks for your efforts! Still giving attention to the "classic" EVs, and not only focussing on the brand new models. Ioniq 28kWh is truly an amazing car! Btw. Bjørn - happy birthday, stay healthy and all the best!!
The guys from cleanelectric podcast did a 24h challenge with this car some years ago (or at least spoke about it). They used a battery powered leaf blower to prevent it from rapidgating.
Excellent video as always. Well done. Would you consider doing a repeat of the 1000km challenge with the 38.3km version with warmer weather? It woud be interestng to see if it performed any better as the battery did not like the cold weather.
Nice that you retest som classic EVs. Would love to also see you test some smaller EVs with similar range and batterypack. Even if mainly designed to be city cars, it would be great to know if you occassionally can do a longer 1000 km tour with fast charging like you did the the Ioniq here. Would be very interested if you could test/retest the Mini Electric 2022, but also the competition to it in form of the Fiat 500 and Honda E.
Shiiiiiiiiiiiiiit, it's good to see Ioniq again! I took an Ioniq28 (the only one) thanks to you, then changed to a TM3 as it was very limited for long hauls (I live in France). But know what? Sometimes I do regret my good old Ioniq...way less fun to drive, way less convenient for long trips, but more pleasant to live, so to say
Me too!! I live in France and was considering buying the Leaf40kWh or wait and increase my savings to buy the Kona64kWh. Thanks to Bjorn I heard about the Ioniq, and its great efficiency. After a 150km test on the highway, I signed the order and never regreted my choice!!
@@jianghe2212 Yes, with ease! I've driven in winter max 350km trip with loading after every 110-140km for safety (dependent on loading network in Finland).
Hi Björn, love your videos and Ioniq 28. Great idea to redo the challenge with this car! Maybe you could have minimised overheating of the battery if you hadn't used the highest regen level. This way it was a bit like yoying whenever not accelerating. Keep up the good work! Cheers!
It's irrelevant. Look at the video and at the map and you will see that most of the route is very flat. And on the long downhills, I had to regen unless I want to coast at 150-170 km/h...
Found the Ioniq after recommendations from ev groups. Definitely impressive. Good value on the second hand market. I was looking at the Nissan leaf. Cheaper on the used market. More battery problems but with more options for battery upgrades.
Dismounting the trim in the trunk in the right hand side helps the fan because it lowers the counterpressure for the fan. The battery gets a little bit colder while driving. Also I switch on AC to coolest temperture during charging. But also Hyundai should set fan to max as it detects HPC and should also leave the fan at max while driving.
The problem is that battery fan speed during driving goes to 7-8 but then drops to 4 after about 15-30 minutes when max battery temp is around 40-42°C. It should keep it running at fan speed 7 until max battery temp is below 35°C. Software update can easily fix the mild rapidgate.
@@bjornnyland exactly. I think that Hyundai did not see it coming that people use this car for long trips and underestimated the hpc take rate (maybe because there where no hpc in the old days). So they did not take such a high number of consecutive hpc sessions into account.
@@ME-cb1vw I agree. This car was one of the early electric cars and I think they had no idea people would push them so hard. I think they only expected it to be a short commuter car, small battery, and not a road trip warrior. We just had an update so I wonder if this is one thing they fixed.
Björn, good video! I will maybe buy this car in waiting for the i5. Do you recommend me to buy this model instead of the newer model with bigger battery? You have shown us that this charges faster the the new classic. In the end, is that better for long trips according to you?
Hey Bjorn, are you thinking of still doing a 1000 km challenge with the Mini Cooper Electric? Will be great to see, wanna do a road trip with my Mini Electric and curious how well it goes for you with charging etc.
Great work. You should do the same with the Kona 64kw. I’m pretty sure that with the new chargers you would get one hour of the previews time. Thanks for the great effort
When I see such a superb car like the classic Ionic overheat in such low temperatures I am wondering what my ZE 50 will do when I hammer it 870km down the road at temperatures around 35 degrees Celsius...
Is it not possible to put the climate into rear only mode with maximum cold temp and angle the vents to blow directly into the battery 'slot' under the seat!?
Dear Björn, Thank You very much for all of these videos. Thanks to them, I actually went and bought a 2019 Ioniq 28kWh with 11.000 km on the clock. In the beginning, as this is my first EV, I was a bit scared now and then and just hanged on RU-vid all the time. Thanks to Your channel mostly, I've learned A LOT about EVs. In Ioniq's case, there's an excellent forum as well. To my question, regarding the charging in the video: Could you, in theory - connect the cables, start charging, turn on air-conditioning to lowest, close the car and let it charge? My theory is the following: You lose a few minutes by turning on air-conditioning, but You create really cold air for the battery fan to suck in, thereby maximizing the charging effect. I will test this theory during the summer - however, I don't have the equipment for measuring all the values related to charging. Cheers
@@dealerovski82 it was 11.000km, not 110.000 km. It cost 24.000€ at the time of purchase. 15.000km later, I sold it for the same amount of money. Cheers.
@@dealerovski82 check the battery degradation status, or rather, the max range at 100%. Depending on the temperature, I had 165km when the temperatures were around - 5°C to +5°C, and around 220km when the temperatures were around 20°C. Its a great car, as long as the maintenance has been done according to the schedule, and You can charge easily, no worries. Best of luck
I watched the livestream. Still a great EV for the money. Would you rather buy an used 28kwh Ioniq, classic used Tesla S or Zoe ZE50 @Bjørn when price is the same?
When i take a look at your sheeeeeeeet 😜I see that there are lots of cars that drove under low temperatures. I am wondering how much could an i3 improve at 20c for example.One hour or more ? Thanks for doing this!
Bjorn can you please calculate how much time you lost to the bugs impacting on the front of the car .... As this will have used more energy so you have to charge for longer.... 😉
You should try to set the AC to 11 C or something crazy like that during charging process. To see if it really takes air from passenger cabin. And if so, could it (AC) help?
15°C is the lowest. Also switch driver only off to enable the air vents in the back. It helps a little bit but not that much. And you have to leave the car on and with the car on you can't lock the doors from outside.
@@josifvissarionovich5320 Your idea is not that bad. But it can't outrun Hyundai's design flaw in the battery. There are two cell groups which are not cooled properly. These are always the hottest (with the app torque you can see the temperatures of the groups). The groups with lower temperatures show, that the air cooling works ok (not great but ok) if the airflow is well designed which is not for the two hot groups, unfortunately.
Cooling the exhaust on the battery cooling system wont help. You have to cool the air going to the intake. Maybe setting the cabin temp to the lowest setting while charging would help.
Hi, Bjorn! Whats the maps or sw version in this car? I want that GPS speed display in mine (2017) also! Anyone has an idea how to get an update, according to my Hyundai dealer, last nov. nothing was available and I also couldn't find anything on the I-net too.
Updates come out every six months or so, but be warned that the radio screen in the latest version looks like some college kid's shitty winamp skin. Horrible for SiriusXM users, as it doesn't show the station names on the preset buttons any more.
The Ioniq would be such a Tesla hunter with the 64kwh battery from the Kona and a water cooled CCS plug so you could get close to 150kw DC charging. Just imagine that! The efficiency and the charging speed! What could come close? Paired with the high quality cells
@@bjornnyland I know mostly because of the limitation of the CCS plug to 200A . Either put two 28kwh batteries in series to create 800v so 120kw or a new system. I'm just dreaming. I like what Tesla archieves with electric cars but I don't like the way you operate a Tesla or how they can(!) treat owners. Ioniq is just sooo efficient and also the battery is of good quality and charging time is impressive as well. I like all of that just now with a bigger battery. More range AND more charging speed. Again, I'm just dreaming.
Hi Bjørn, do you notice that the speedometer is over-reporting the speed but the odometer is under-reporting the mileage...is this pretty typical of the Ioniq?
Hi, I am from Poland. I bought my Ioniq 28 (2018/2019) just 7 weeks ago. I already drove about 6600 km (average consumption about 12,5 kW/100km). Very nice car with a mileage of ... (I have no idea, because in ODO I had 14200km, but the battery consumed already 21900 kWh) - the car is from Wien, and nobody, even Hyundai Service in Austria, can not tell me what is the actual mileage. EVNotify shows me SOH 99,8%, which would be not bad. Anyway, could you please tell me what Android Apps are you using for checking all the car parameters on the 1000km road? Thanks. Best regards. Piotr
I kept my AC on on my 30KWH Kia Soul EV on the last hot 1000KM trip, the battery air pickup is under the seats, did not exceed 39C. the trip was taken when temperatures on parts of the leg were at 29Deg.C. I had max 69KW charge rate
Maybe you shouldn't open the trunk. I think the car is sucking air from the interior through the battery and blowing it outside trough the vent in the trunk. The cooler the interior is the more the battery will be cooled. So keep the doors closed and put the climate control on the lowest temperature setting. The extra power drawn for cooling shouldn't be a problem with hpc.
Why have you not set a given route with a given start and endpoint for the 1.000 km challenge? If you do that, diviation in trip doesn't matter. Also a short range car will have to drive further (more stops), as it would in real life going 1.000 km from A to B.. Keep up the good work
Simple reason: EVs have different range. Some cars need more charging stops than others. It will then be unfair for cars with short range to go to the same endpoint since it had to take more detours to charge.
@@bjornnyland I get your point. But on the other hand it's unfair for the long-range once. If the destination is 1.000 km away, you're not there after 1.000 km if you had to take 5 km extra detour because of charging... So question is, should you drive or travel 1.000 km.. But weighing more, if you miscalculate trip-deviation or forget to reset you know exactly when it's over.
Nope, I will not set a given endpoint for all cars. Sometimes I have to change the route due to traffic or other reasons. Best way is to just look at trip meter.
Well actually this is a good point, you do go A to B, so the total time/distance saved when the car has a higher range would be a fair comparison. Of course more numbers, but you could just include the real A to B distance, easy solution really. Just average it out and extrapolate to the desired 1k km A to B.
@@ModPhreak true, doing both would be easily possible (in future). Only downside is as Bjørn says, traffic/roadconstruction can't be avoided on a set route.
@@thatpersonsmusic what makes you believe Hyundai’s cells will be more immune from degradation? As far as I am aware, e-Golf has pretty good degradation even for an air cooled pack (a few percent per year)
Should be fine. It has a high cobalt pack which is more resistant to high temperatures. The model 3 pack can reach temperatures as high as 55°C when charging.
Think you made two mistakes or better two things to remind. 1. Switch of the Car while loading - you don’t need all the lights and, most important, no climate. Just open the back doors a little bit because the outside temperature is lower as your climate. 2. If you a fan of climate use a chalkboard or anything other to guide the rear climate outtake into the battery inlet. 😉 Just loving my Ioniq VFL (german vor Facelift, in english before facelift BFL) because it’s ‘the Ioniq’.
Nope. 1. Car was mostly on during charging and the cabin was always kept around 21-23°C for the whole challenge. 2. As mentioned in the video, I purposely turned off Driver Only setting to allow cold air to flow in rear center console. No modifications should be done to gain advantage. We test the car stock to make it realistic as possible.
@@bjornnyland You did it on the right way, for sure. All I want to note that there are some simple, don’t want to say tricks (what about the trunk?), to support the things. Open the rear doors or opening the doors isn’t out of ordinary. But anyway, thanks for doing this second test using the more spreaded superchargers. Shows me the Ioniq isn’t out of the race. Like your way of questioning things and will stay tuned.
And many regular people on road trips might leave the car parked in the sun with HVAC off for 15-20 minutes while charging and while they are on Burger King. That would increase the temperature in the battery faster.
I use Carscanner on my E Niro. It accesses lots more data than Bjorn displays here. You can setup extra screens and choose the way to represent data. The app developer is responsive too. The best ODB app IMHO.
I don't want to freeze during my trips. My point was that when it was warmer during the test earlier, it was cooling. Remember that we want to run the test as realistic as possible. No ninja tricks.
@@bjornnyland Understand and you are right, for most people this means normal usage. Maybe something wrong with me, but I turn off heating while charging when I am not sitting in the car and some doors are open, so for me it is not a trick.
Love your EV car challenge! By your advice, I recently bought a used Ioniq. Yes only 28 Kwh it was in my budget! But I really love it!!! Greatings from Holland
