That fork holder that snapped, if you print that rotated 90deg, it should be a lot stronger, as the primary forces wouldn't be aligned with the print layers.
Should be possible for sure to print that so it's strong enough to be used on a roof rack. Stronger plastic, thicker gussets, a slot that will fit a bent spoke for reinforcement...
Yup. Rotate it and print it in CF ASA. It'll be good to go. But do not use PLA if it's gonna see much sunlight. UV light will weaken it over time and it'll eventually be super brittle.
If you print it at a 45 degree angle with custom supports you can get almost the best of both worlds in terms of stopping cracking along layers, I've used this method for printing bike computer mounts and it seems stronger. The only down side is that you have to alter the original design to add breakway supports - oops sorry other people do mention this further down!
Nice job - what we really need now is a contraption that holds a folk up in the steer tube, so we can go hands free to pick out spacers and put the stem on without having to play bike mechanic twister. See if you can figure out a solution to that and I’ll pay any amount for it.
This is the biggest thing I still see Seth struggling with. I doubt it'd take him much time to grok, he just needs to find some time to look into it. He's got a kid and a large property to take care of in addition to this job, so I don't blame him.
@@AgalmicAutomatait’s also less pliable than metal so I feel like barring any extreme conditions, it should be more bend resistant too. Obviously a good smack would break it and you can bend back a metal hanger, but it would be interesting to see how it would hold up compared to a traditional hanger
@@zog6940 temperature is everything with TPU. if your printer is in a large space, try finding a smaller space to put it so the ambient temperature is more consistent. that's what unlocked it for me.
@@shellbournian my friend, only the most stiff tpu can easily be pushed down a bowden tube. THAT is my main gripe. I'll eventually just upgrade to a direct drive extruder and I'll be fine though.
Printing the fork holder with 100% infill and annealing it in the oven suspended in salt or other suitable powder would make it pretty much as strong as an injection molded part.
Never ever use 100% infill if you want to make parts solid. Infills are printed at max speed and underextrusion is desired, not unwanted. So you are going to leave a lot of air inside. To print solid parts for re-melting process you need to use 999 walls and add extra flow and temps, printing slower also helps. You need to squish as much air out as possible.
@@JGnLAU8OAWF6 Yes, I have had good luck with ABS, thanks for the reminder. My 6-port USB charger is mounted on an ABS part, I'd completely forgotten about it because it just works. I haven't tried ASA yet, it sounds like it should be even better though.
This video reminds me of when I worked at a local BMX shop and I'd make a bunch of different "tools" for working on bikes but I'd carve them out of 2x4s.... From fork holders to rim straighteners and even handmade spoke wrenches I filed out of aluminum and attached to a customers bike. Kind of makes me want to get a 3D printer so I can make some new ideas I have.... Awesome video Seth. Thanks.... 😁👍
Pretty timely since I just ordered a set of 3D printed bleed blocks from Etsy this morning. I kept thinking I should buy a 3D printer - and this video is nudging me closer to doing it.
If you have the budget for it, the Bambu Labs printers are very good. If you have more time than budget, the Ender 3 Pro has served me very well. It does require meticulous attention to assembly, as it is a "kit" printer", but I followed The Edge of Tech's, Luke Hatfield's, build instructions and have never had a failure due to misassembly.
@@secretweaponevan Strongly agree. My Ender 3 is heavily modded now but it's quality is approaching the limits of the technology. Speed certainly isn't but that's a whole 'nother beast that I'm not terribly interested in tbh.
@@secretweaponevan I have a buddy who is very into 3D printing. He's got the full setup with all the bells and whistles. He prints A LOT. To be perfectly honest - I need a setup where I can print out something occasionally when I need it. However, I don't want too much complexity in terms of setup. That's what has kept me from buying one so far.
@@BishyBoodaBee The Ender 3 has come a long way. I bought a V2 Neo for £135 (about $170) recently from the manufacturer store on eBay. If you are at all handy with bike repairs/building, putting together the printer is an absolute breeze. It comes in like 3 parts, no assembling 100's of tiny screws. It has auto bed leveling so no calibration is needed. Admittedly I have built printers before, but from opening the parcel it came in to printing the test file that comes on the SD card was sub 30 minutes. I've printed hundreds of parts an not had a single one fail, I've done zero testing, calibrating or tuning.
1:17 quick note on the tire bracket. I've designed and printed multiple interations of these and the issue that I have always come accross is that they will release the tire once it deflates past a certain point. So, if you are thinking of leaving your bike on the bracket for an extended period of time consider adding something like a velcro cable strap to avoid issues with tire retention. If you don't want to use a cable tie you can make the bracket deep enough to slide a retaining clip behind the rim, but that adds complexity to the build.
What slicing settings are you generally using for the prints? Using thicker layers (even a wider nozzle) and more perimeters tends to do wonders for the strength of printed objects.
Seth - Walls are stronger than infil. A pipe is almost as strong as a solid peice of material, I use 4 walls by default and 5 for things I need to be really strong Love your videos, been watching a long time and got into mtb because of you
I came here to say this. With 5 walls and PETG the fork holder would not have broken. Also, for ultimate strength, TPU is the best choice if the part can have some flexibility. I challenge my friends to try and break TPU parts.
Thank you. I don't know why infill gets so much praise for making stronger parts. You'd be amazed how much a few extra walls adds and saves a ton of time in printing vs. 80% infill.
@@truantray It sheered across layer lines and PETG doesn't have the best layer adhesion. GOOD/close to pure PLA has ~25% better layer adhesion than most other materials. It's much more rigid as well, so that could have downsides. I think the orange filament he was using WAS PETG, and Prusa's PETG settings are a little low, which nets even worse layer adhesion. PLA has lots of downsides, but layer adhesion is one of it's strong points. Personally, I would design that part to be flipped on it's side so the thru-axle goes through constant extrusions of plastic, and I'd stick with a semi-flexible filament like PETG, ASA, ABS, etc. That part is bound to take some impacts here and there.
@@Zombifan122very dependent on what direction you need strength in. For something like the fork clamp that is going to be squeezed in a vise, with the load concentrated at the center of the steerer tube, infill is probably going to be more effective than wall thickness.
3:25 here you can see your biggest problem: print orientation. The part delaminated because you printed it parallel to the force axis. If you’d have rotated the part 45 degrees (and used support) this thing would be rock solid…
Ooooooh that handlebars alignment tool is genius. I’ve always just eyeballed it and dealt with the awkwardness of being a degree or so off after every fork or headset service, lol. This fixes that problem for like 10 cents of plastic. I’m hyped now. Edit: NNOOOO The original creator removed the Handlebar alignment tool. :( I'll model up my own and throw it up on thangs.
Then you can use you engineering resource to make something with more added value : more creative design, better efficiency, better material, etc. Don't let 40k of engineering resource sitting around ! (By the way, tout should raise him !!)
The tubolito case is a cool product, but i think the better option is 2 rubber bands wrapped around the tube. More lightweight and after using it won’t take up as much space as an empty tube case in your bag
Also for abrasion perhaps. I'm a long-term tourer and I find the constant rubbing together of all my stuff over thousands of miles causes a surprising amount of damage. Tubes will get holes worn through them in no time just from rubbing against other stuff in the same bag as them.
You've got a point about the space, but you'd be surprised how light a bit of plastic is. You'll shed more weight breathing for an hour than you'll save by foregoing the abrasion resistance.
Seth, I suspect you printed the fork mount with PLA. Don't use PLA, use PETG. PLA is hard but brittle and it would fail in summer hot cars. PETG can survive hot cars, it's more UV resistant, and more importantly, it's not as brittle. PETG deforms before breaking and when it does, it stays attached and rarely snaps.
That fork mount needs to be printed sideways. The way you printed it, it just came apart at the layers. Basically you always want circles to be printed flat, not upright
The fork mount will break any which way it is printed. It is a good option if mounted in a garage or other place that isn't going to be moving the bike around.
It matters quite a lot which direction you print the items. Layer adhesion usually sucks, so don't print them in a way that a lot of force tries to pull the layers apart.
@@rickmortyson4861 Show me a video of you destroying a TPU part through 'normal use' and I'll be impressed. TPU is incredibly tough, and has unbelievably good layer adhesion when 3D printed (far better than PLA etc). They make combat robot chassis from TPU specifically because of its properties, but I guess it is a PLASTIC- so it must be weak 🤡🤡
@@tzlrc0 ideally with a totally flat side or a flat start and 40 degree angle so that it can be printed without any supports. Maybe not so fancy but more practical
for 3d prints material matters and orintation that fork mount i would say put in the effort to get it printed so the lines dont meet the expected stresses
If you are intimidated by the whole 3D printing thing, check out the Banbu A1 Mini. It automates much of the skill part of 3d printing. I could say much more, but don't want to come across sounding like an ad for Bambu.
@danielmurtin2911 ... I know nothing about 3D printers, except that I've always kinda wanted to get one, despite not having a real "need" for one. Just always kinda wanted one for experimenting / playing around, and those random times when I've thought "if I had a 3D printer, I could just design and make it myself" ... I haven't done any research on entry-level / affordable 3D printers in years... last time I did, I think the Creality Ender 3 was the one I almost bought. How does the Banbu A1 Mini compare to the Ender 3? In terms of being easy for a beginner to learn on, while also being capable/versatile?
I'm wondering if the fork holder would of worked better with a couple steel bands to hold it down that way your using the steal for strength and the 3d print to kinda fill in the gaps and make it work correctly.
As people stated different infill and wall counts will change a lot of the results and Try different filaments too, asa is probably gonna be the best for most of these
Maybe he downloaded hundreds of designs and printed them out. Maybe he couldn't figure out where he got a part from. I had this issue recently because I published something i designed 2 years ago (I wanted to adequately test it to make sure it worked), but in my design I dropped in someone else's STEP file to take a shortcut for part of the design. It was a nightmare trying to find that original file listing. It took me ~45 minutes. It sucks, but it happens sometimes, what's more important, the credit, or exposing this aspect of the hobby to thousands of people unaware of it?
FYI, don’t worry about dense infill for anything that needs compression. All you have to do is use 3-D block in your slicer and you can beef up certain areas and even just get rid of infill altogether and fill it solid. I do this in a lot of joints and corners and especially wherever there’s nuts or bolts or something clamping.
What i saw on the printer display, You printed with PLA which is stiff and brittle. For fork mount I would try something stronger like PETG which is easy to print or ASA (for that You need enclosure otherwise it will probably warp and fail to print). happy printing :)
I printed an upgraded front chain guide assembly for my sons Devinci Ewoc yesterday. Going to do a couple tweaks and make it rock solid today. 😂. Worked great for some park laps last night.
Another note for the fork mount is it broke on the layer lines, so actual polymers didn't break. I think like another comment suggested to fix this you would rotate the print so the tension is parallel to the layer lines. If it were an issue with the plastic, I would suggest using 100% infill TPU, or nylon (assuming you're using PLA or PETG. PETG is probably a bit better for layer adhesion too).
Just bought myself a 3d printer cause of these videos, was not expecting a video out on 3d printed goodies (although I could have expected it earlier if was on substack sooner) thanks for some more ideas, I will have to try them out 👍thanks Seth
Congrats on your new 3d printer! Hopefully you picked up a Prusa or Bambulab otherwise you should prepare to also make maintaining/tinkering with your 3d printer the hobby as well.
@@Evo_Spec oops didn’t get one of those😬got a creality ender 3 s1 so it has direct drive and is doing well so far. Hopefully not too many issues but that’s still part of the fun.
That handlebar alignment guage is cleverly designed. Just alight the center line of the tire between those two ears. It's similar to using v-notch gun sights...
My first thought when seeing how it worked was that I'd like to print one with actual gun-style sights on it, mostly for the fun of it but it'd also be functional :P
@@traviseason3548 Well I disagree with your disagreement. If you say it’s easy you notice the misalignment then it should be just as easy to make the correct adjustments to your stem
the forkmount could be a lot stronger when printed so that the layer lines where where rotated 90 degrees, but than the part needs to be redesigned for easier printing.
PSA for people who want to print things. Number of walls is how you make stronger parts, not infill. Infill helps, but more walls makes it a lot stronger than infill.
This could be a regular series! I’d love that. I’ve been looking at a few bits today, quad lock stem cap mount, apple airtag holder for under your fork.
I would be interested to see if that fork mound would benefit from sintering. Put it in an oven (that you don’t use for food) and crank it up to the recommended temperature for your plastic. It broke along the layer lines, so melting those layer lines together would make it stronger. I would still not use it on top of your car, only use the plastic ones in places where if it breaks it doesn’t become a road hazard.
Depending on material, you could just soak in acetone. That is what we did 15 years ago with the material we'd print. Printers now are significantly better.
The fork mount you printed seemed to lack much infill. If you're working with PLA using 110% flow 80-90% infill for the best layer adhesion, also as others have mentioned you could make it stronger if you print in a different orientation. With good settings you can print some insanely strong stuff, I printed a motor mount for an E-skate with these settings and it's still holding to this day :).
Seth if you use PLA on your Printer, maybe try switching to PETG. Pla is great to start, but PETG is a bit stronger and also more resistant to higher temps after printing. Also, don't want to say you didn't do it till now, but maybe try switching infill and infill %. Also the orientation of your object in the slicer can make a difference of the strength of your part. Hope I could help, great to see you include 3D printing a lot more, I am printing for a year now and biking for 3 years haha
PETG can take more abuse than PLA, but PLA is stronger. That being said, PETG is probably more suitable for a bike than PLA because of temperature & toughness. In general adding more walls gives higher strength- infill does very little.
@@Bogm8 this!! Also, most filaments with CF additives end up weaker because they have 30-40% worse layer adhesion... all that nozzle wear for weaker parts, but the trend just will not die.
3D PRINTER PEOPLE... is there currently a consensus on the best budget / beginner 3D printer as of Summer 2024? I've always kinda wanted to get a 3D printer, but I don't really have a legitimate NEED for one... I've just always kinda wanted to experiment and play around with one, and use it for little random DIY projects. I can't justify spending much on a new hobby / tool that I may rarely use... but if the costs have come down enough that I can get a capable printer and an assortment of filament for $250 or less, maybe I'll get one. Just curious if there's a current obvious choice available that lots of people are currently recommending. Maybe a cheap Chinese knockoff that works good?
Infill is important, but so is wall layers.. Most of your prints I saw you were going with just 2 layers for walls. For anyone trying this at home I suggest Pro PLA at least and go with 5-6 wall layers and 7-10 top and bottom layers. Use a gyroid fill of at least 35%. This will give you a seriously durable part.
Those _never_ point straight down the axis, which would render them utterly useless for this purpose. Ask me how I know. Now, a red dot for a pistol, however, I've had some good luck with those because you can align the laser point.
As a teacher of engineering and specifically 3d printing and a life ling mountain bikers I have a few comments. As others have mentioned print orientation is key. 3d printed prats very strong when in compression. But when in strain or stretch 3d printed parts are very weak when being pulled apart perpendicular to layer planes. However if you the strain is along the layer planes the parts can be way stronger. In our lab and years pf experimenting have found the top 3 factors in the usability or practical strength of a functional part to be... 1. layer orientation, do not pull layers apart, pull along layer lines. (print the for mount vertically. 2. extrusion ratio. Increase extrusion ratio as far as possible until the part starts to deform. This will fill in as many gaps as possible between layers passes. With many PLA or PETG prints we have no problem printing at 120 or 130% 3. If possible find the optimal printing temperature for layer adhesion. This is different for every filament. If you cant actually test this, its the upper end of what ever is recommended on the roll it self. Side note on materials PLA is not a solid in a hot car or shed but is "stronger" than a lot of PETG at room temp. PETG is probably the best for anything that will EVER be left in a hot car TPU is amazingly strong especially for any part under strain. TPU is also great for 3D printed grips. Try a .2mm nozzle and playing with outer layer thickness and infill percent for very customized grips. I also recommend the Gyroid infill for a more uniform squish. PS I've been following this channel since you lived in Florida. keep up the great work!
To reinforce 3D printed parts, they can be coated or impregnated with epoxy resin. But when it comes to safety on the bike, I would never use 3D printed parts.
3:02 the split pattern indicates that it's printed too cold, and a part like this deserves more perimeter layers and inflated extrusion width to achieve better bead and layer welding. This part seems also really designed that you can pump up the temperature just short of burning up your filament or your printer. Not all designs can be run hot. Hot printing is less shape-accurate but better layer bond. Choice A of material for this would be ASA or HIPS printed enclosed; or i guess polycarbonate or nylon if you're into torturing yourself; choice B is PETG, but it's a little dubious since PETG can go from tough to brittle suddenly, flash crystallisation, though if i were to bet, it might just hold up fine. Actually Bavaria Olefin might be another choice A but i'm uncertain, worth a try.
3:00 if you print that fork mount standing up (tilted 90 degrees so that you can see down through the hole when it’s on the bed) it would have been whole lot stronger. You might have to use washers for the screws. Without having studied the STL in 3D; this model looks like something copied or reverse engineered from a machined product, and not designed with 3D printing in mind. Of course, therese a lot of leverage in a tall bike, so you might not be able to 3D print something in basic materials that would withstand those kind of forces, but printing it on the side would have done a lot for the strength :-D
@03:39 This part should have been designed to be 3D Printable standing on its side ( with the Axle Bore being vertical ). Printed like that *_and_* using the proper Screws to bolt it down you'd more likely to be bending the bike before you could break it.
COULD BE STRONGER? 🤣😂🤣 Well when you print it with 2 walls and 15% infill, yeah! 🤦 And ALL of these prints should be petg, ASA or abs heaven forbid. I think a review of the reviewer may be in order.
Seth, PLA for the Bench Bike Mount? No PLA-CF or ABA or ASA? Time for a PLA testing video ala CNC Kitchen....or...or Thomas Sanlander. Yes, I invoked his holy name.
Here's the thing a lot of people ar asking themselves. What materials did you use ? PLA is brittle and crap for most mechanical appiclations because it also has " creep " and prints tend to warp over time anyways. PETG / ASA / Nylon printed with high infill and 5-6 walls are crazy tough especially if you print them with above indicated temps for a better layer adhesion. A CRAZY good filament for these kinds of applications believe or not is TPU, cause it bonds CRAZY good and it holds really well. That's why most people use TPU prints for gopro mounts. a 40D is pretty stiff even if still flexible. I think it would've made a great candidate for the for mount.
Seth I've been seriously watching since Seth's bike hacks... I'm not telling you that because of anything other than it's a fact. The only reason I'm writing now is because I caught this video within the first few hours of it being released so I thought there might be a chance, albeit a small one, that my comment might be picked up by one of your handlers... My wife and I did the buffalo bike thing and have done 3 bikes so far, again not telling you this for any reason other than it's a fact. We will keep that charity on our list of charities that we tithe (so to speak) to different charities on a regular basis, and we will keep Buffalo bikes on our list and I tell you that, just as a matter of fact... I launched my own RU-vid channel yesterday... I've named it (n2u2b)
For the fork mount, you would really need a design that can be printed in a vertical orientation. The one in the video broke in a very predictable manor: right along the layer lines. Were the layers turned the other way, that probably wouldn't have happened. I still wouldn't use it in/on a vehicle, but you broke that thing SO easily that I don't think the original version is practical even in your shop.
Hi Seth, Can you do a product review on the Schwinn Axum Comp X? It's a $549 bike from Walmart that I've had my eye on since seeing it recently on my last visit. It has a dropper post, a 1x8 drivetrain, and mechanical lockouts on the front fork. Thanks!
Not mountain bike related but my moped's throttle lever broke about two weeks ago and I only could get a replacement part a month later as all the shops could only order the specific part for a Chinese GY6 moped for me. Well found a creator on Cults that made a design printed it out, all the part took me about a day to print in between work and home time. The part works just like the original and I did it out of PLA+.. (I know people are going to say its not going to last long but I have PLA+ parts around the house that been out in the sun doing far worse jobs than the throttle lever and they been holding out for the last 4 years already.) The original part actually arrived yesterday and I was thinking of replacing it on the weekend but a buddy at work suggested I leave the printed one on until it breaks that way I have the original one ready a a spare when I need it on the road instead of being on the road and needing a part when the original breaks. Nice collection in the video thanks for sharing.
Regarding that forkmount: It looks like it was printed with infill less than 100%. I would stronlgy advise to print those kind of parts with 100% to make them as strong as possible. but even then, you saw it cracksed along the layer lines which is a weakpoint anyways so it might just be designed too thin. if you make it bulkier with way more crosssectional area it should handle more abuse.
@@atnfn one could do that but that would waste alot of filament on supports on how it is currently shaped. with some modification it would do that just fine though. makes the screw holes easier to split with overtorque though.
You should consider an enclosed Core XY printer such Bambu Labs P1S and experiment with ABS filament. More resistant and doesn't degrade with UV light.
Seth: 3D prints weird MTB stuff for the hell of it. Me: Can't even find STL files for replacement toe and heel pads for my road bike shoes (Bont Vaypors, $AUD50 to buy direct 😭)
Please make a video of Rijuxu SLR I9 hubs These are from ali express And its like same go same I9 hydra hubs But tooo much cheaper Plz plz make e review video or first impression video plz Love from Bangladesh
The fork mount should probably be printed out of nearly solid TPU, that side-wobble is a lot of torque to stop with mass behind it, from a bad mechanical advantage point at that! Layer adhesion is critical, and some flex allowance is even better. That said, probably better for a storage option. But if you made one out of TPU and maybe helped hold it with a strap overtop, I think it'd fair much better being pushed on, TPU is crazy for how easy it is to print, but requires a direct-drive extruder. Also for 9:00 you mentioned heavy infill, for a part like that, there is a very specific zone you should bother printing solid, then the rest can basically be hollow. Learn how mesh modifiers work in prusa slicer and you'll be unstoppable!.. or at least use less plastic in some areas, just so you can print nearly solid in others. UNLIMITED POWAH
assuming your using standard PLA.... ABS/ASA would be a far better option for any product with outdoors involved... Also increased walls would make it stronger than using infill.
I got a Bambu Lab P1S to print a rear cover for my TwoNav 1st generation Aventura GPS because it broke. Still using it thanks to the 3D printed cover! Please explain what filament your are using for each print
if you can, try printing that dropper post leaver or even the fork mount out of a Nylon Carbon Fiber filament... like a Polymaker PA6-CF or a PA12-CF. that stuff has the nickname of black aluminum... really strong. But you do need an enclosure and nylons can be a pain to print...
Not a fun post but Just want to adres the massive plastic waste 3d printing involves worldwide. Don't think anyone needs a plastic factory at home in these challenging times.
For any of these parts which will see consistent exterior use you're definitely going to want to print them using ASA filament. One of the few that are UV resistant (an as a bonus can be smoothed using acetone). For extra rigidity (and cost) carbon fiber filled ASA will work even better. Only issue is compared to PETG or PLA it can be a real pain to print (enclosure, super good bed adhesion at a minimum)
You will gain much more in strength from increasing shell thickness (walls/top/bottom) than by increasing infill. Infill is not efficient past 25% compared to thicker shells.
The most useful MTB thing I printed was a tool to install my Wheels MFG BB. Saved some money not to buy that tool. 3D print tip, print in PETG and with 4 walls to get durable parts. Stronger than more infill.
The larger the layer height the stronger the print, make that fork mount with thicker layers. My old truing stand is from the 80's so i had to make a new one for through axle. Used some threaded rod , nuts and 3d printed brackets. Now i have some nice 29'er Dt swiss wheels :) Also did not want to buy any tools while rebuilding Rock shox reverb. Made soft holders for the shaft and just use a c-clamp as my vice. You could most likely make the soft holders for a fork too. 3d printing is like working with wood, you hhave to pay attention to the grain lines and forces.
you should look at a prusa mk3.5 upgrade kit. huge, huge improvement in performance. modern color screen, wifi, and most importantly input shaping. would cut your print times in half.
Hey Seth i dont comment much but i love watching your videos, and i do a lot of 3d printing at home and at school so i thought and share some of my knowledge but by no means am i an expert. Im still in high school and Im planning to start a manufacturing club at my high school so i can inspire other kids my age to make cool things. Some things i noticed for your parts requiring higher strengths, like for the fork mount, having a stronger material like ASA and TPU or even a more exotic filament might help depending on the specific needs of the part. I know that prusa has some PC blends, and i believe some carbon fiber infused stuff as well. Might be worth it to take a look. For the fork mount you probably want it to be pretty strong and as ridged as possible and for outdoor use you would definitely want uv protection properties like what ASA has. I recently bought a roll of prusament ASA, if you do get some just know that it does warp so an enclosure would be ideal but you can also print a boarder around your parts to act as a mini temporary enclosure. Its kinda difficult to explain but its pretty much a really thick skirt around your part and it would be as tall as the parts too. I really love your videos on 3d printing, inspiring others to be creative and possibly buying their first 3d printers. Awesome stuff Seth, keep doing what you’re doing! On a side note experimenting with SLA 3d printing might yield stronger parts because each layer fuses together so mo matter the orientation they should all fail around the same load amount. The down side of SLA is the clean up process… Not fun.
Make a video Use different filaments must be interesting to find the best for which purposes, 3d printer carbon fiber, nylon ,PvA,pc filaments ect. for example.
I would be careful recommending cheaper 3d printers Seth, You started out with a Prusa so I don't think you've had many problems or headaches but if you're starting with an Ender 3 or something you might get a few successful prints before having to troubleshoot, maintain, and tuning a 3d printer becomes the hobby.
Hey Seth not related to this video, but after watching your flip bike series I decided to try it myself. Picked up 2 Mongoose Fat Tires for $225 for the pair, an 8 speed and a single speed. The single speed needed a little oil and it was good to go, the 8 speed OMG. It was used heavily on the beach, I spent over an hour to get the seat post out of the frame it was so rusted. Fortunately that one was aluminum frame and the rest was in decent shape. All said and done I had 6 hours total project time, and after fracturing in gas, new seat post, and maintenance stuff like oil and paint, I made $106 selling both bikes. For sure not worth doing it to actually make money, as it was a gamble I could have broken even on or lost, but fun project if you find the right bikes and can do basic maintenance.
very cool video. printing details would be nice through like, infill %, number of parameters, layer-height, all which affects strength. for example, the fork mount looked like it was printed with stock slicer settings at 2 wall lines, 25% infill, at 0.2 layer height, i.e. it would not be as strong as a print with 99% infill. pla vs pla+ vs nylon. I suppose the list goes on, but knowing what the starting point is when strength is a factor really help to preserve the work that has gone into designing these parts. Nevertheless, more awareness for people to tinker with the files.
ABS (Lego plastic) seems better suited than PLA (disposable cutlery) for anything durable but the 3D printer needs a temperature controlled bed... Why not step up to a better printer so you can make better stuff for bikes?
I've recently come across a 3d printable tool I've not yet tried. It's a 54 mm trunnion torque adapter/crowfoot for making sure your shock's air can is tightened to the right torque spec.
