I Attached a 100,000 RPM MAX Castle Mamba to my 3D printed SUPERCHARGER..... Will it Survive? 

🤘😎👍 Sick!!!

Jeremy, build a life size one!!

I want to see this baby cooling a racing sim rig!

POGGERS DONUT MEDIA SHOWED UP

69th like 👉😎👉

I think the motor needs 150A nominal

@@xthexder0 Obviously you've never messed with hobby grade electronics, they draw stupid amounts of power.

It's a 90 amp esc

Or a server power supply, only 12/24V but cheap and lots of power

​@@xthexder0 I have motors half that size that draw 1kw at full power. I have a pancake motor that probably weighs about the same as that one but pulls 2.8kw at max throttle.

Couldent agree more so sad,

That’s a good idea more power and a wall plug

a 5inch angle grinder tops out at around 10,000rpm, but has a boat load more tq than the little motor hes using... i dont think it would work the way you have in mind

@@Krasher247 you could work around that with a system of either pulleys or gear ratios

@@Krasher247 i think torque could be better because you can try to go bigger with the impeller. but if that doesn't work you can always just take out the gearbox that's built in

@@da_poopoo_dealer3152 putting plastic gears on a angle grinder sounds like a intresting party😂

Right! I have seen a bunch of printed gears on youtube way exceed my expectations.

I think a big one is due to how fantastic the tech has gotten, especially comparing it to older 3D printers. Im glad the tech has gotten to this point thats for sure

@@DeathProductions200 there has been almost no tech advancement in 30 years....the price point just got lower.

@@DieselRamcharger Standardized heated beds, larger print area, standardized auto-leveling, and all of these getting cheaper. But all of those things existed for the most part.

@@joeleonard9965 bringing the price point down is scale of economy, not advancement. auto bed leveling is a crutch not a feature. its still better to have a machine that is mechanically accurate. but i digress. all the things you named are just features that have become common place to commercial {commodity} hobby printers. 3D Printing has existed as Rapid Prototyping since the 1970's. Which is where the term "RepRap" has its roots. RepRap being the OpenSource community that invented the thing you call 3D printing today...3D printing being the china sales gimmick tacked onto what was essentially an ass ton of stolen i.p. Then you got fake as fuck's like Prusia....but anyhoo.

And they can handle insane amounts of current oo, a car starter can pull 800A so that would be more than enough for the job

Depending on where you live, and what batteries you use. My diesel engine requires a 80ah (80,000mah) but it does 13.7v

@@boziewz6125 A car battery is a car battery. Most of them are in the 500-750cca area and will take 20-30 amp hours to charge. The batteries you're talking about are gonna be AGM units for commercial trucks. Semis and the like. Have worked with those, too, but they're a bit much for what's going on here. A standard 500cca car battery will be plenty for this project. Also never once heard anyone rate car batteries by their capacity since they usually don't get used in applications where that matters all that much. They're instead rated in Cold Cranking Amps, IE how many amps the battery can supply the starter motor when it's 32F/0C out while holding enough voltage to run all the electrical accessories necessary for the engine to actually start, because that's the relevant statistic when shopping for car batteries. Once the engine starts all of the vehicle's electrical demands are supplied by the alternator and the battery is kept topped up so it's ready for the next start. I only knew the rough capacity of them when I charged one with my RC charger one day.

@@snjert8406 Yep. Even a cheap 500cca car battery like I use in my 40 year old F150(A worn out 8.5:1CR straight six with a carb and basic hall effect distributor ignition really doesn't need much battery to start) will push 800+ amps at room temp. NO WAY IN HELL any of the wiring in that setup can even come close to handling that kind of draw! Something else would let the smoke out before the battery gave in.

@@TestECull if one battery isn’t enough, it’s very simple to parallel another on on top of it.

Screw style supercharger will add a lot of axial load. So it will try to blow out the back and front housing as it will constantly push outwards along the centerline. Meaning, more friction and less efficiency.

@@CreamAle that could partly compesated by using helical gear producing axial load in the opposite direction, thrust bearings are defientely still needed tho

I've always assumed that when there is a spiral shape to those 'screw' it compressed the air beofre putingit into the head... I guess this is why I am watching COMPUTER NERD STUFF and NOT GEAR HEAD Stuff LOL :D

​@@Nobe_Oddy technically you're not wrong.

it will add more cfr for sure

What noise? All I heard was POWAAAAARRRRRR

All I heard to start is a nice rev limiter

Someone get this heathen outta here

i would not do that because helical gearing tends to but stress onto the houseing and could lead to twist it slightly. screw could touch each other.

or double helical or what they call it when it it looks like an arrow.

Just what i also was about to say. Agreed.

They aren't supposed to be touching in the first place... Maybe lightly oil the gears or graphite the gears, leave the rotor lobes alone.

I was thinking molybdenum disulfide grease because it's fantastic for imperfect surfaces. This is why it's used so often with powder cindered gears. I think it would work perfectly with 3D printed parts.

@@kleetus92 They are supposed to have extremely tight tolerances, so realistically you want them rubbing with grease for 3D printed parts, and let them wear to a natural tolerance

Did... you watch the video? He tried toothed belts, they snapped near immediately.

@@PewnyPL There are many types of belts. Those ones were not up to the requires spec, but there are others that would be.

@@PewnyPL I think it is obvious that the belts he used, were drastically too small/thin/weak for the task. He is trying to transfer something with what amounts to a rubber band, that is _dwarfed_ by the blower. Look to blowers that are actually on vehicles, the belt that drives them is drastically larger in proportion to the blower, than the belt he used. I don't think he is going to find a belt the size, and strength he needs, in something that is going to fit in the space constraints he is trying to make it in. To make it belt driven, I think it would need a belt that is like, 15mm wide. A quick search online finds some 15-20mm wide belts, but they are roughly 480-500mm in length, used for either Gilmer belt drive systems to drive the water pump and alternator of a V8 engine, or high performance, mechanical fuel pumps for drag race engines.

Gearing down would reduce performance. Providing more power to the motor should be sufficient to handle the load

@@PewnyPL Have you seen the blower belts the dragster guys use? and an electric motor has peak torque fro ZERO RPM.

Stick one of these on the base of like a rad tower and blow the air up through the stack. You could plumb them up so the water sinks as it cools and the super blows the air up so the heat is stripped away, out an exhaust stack. For a laugh, wire it up to a pedal under the desk to control the power it gets.

@@joshuahadams vroom veeeerrrooooooommm

@@joshuahadams oh god you are a genius!

Actually, doubt it is. Roots style superchargers are at best 70% efficient, and those ones that have seals on the lobes. Given he lack of seals I'd guess its maybe 35% efficient. They were first designed to move air through tunnels.

@@ShaunMcCloud Thats cool to know, thanks.

I was thinking the same thing, I think figuring out how to mount one on that pc build would be incredible. Also want to see if putting seals on the screws like Top Fuel dragsters do would work here

Came here to say this. A power supply that can do what he wants won't be cheap.

Also, you can drive more current with less battery voltage drop since you are effectively halving the thevenin resistance.

a pc psu converted will be fine. if he gets a 1000w one with a large amperage 12v rail. you can connect two in series for 24v, but you will need to isolate the negative rail from ground in one of the power supplies.

series would be better, you will have same voltage but more runtime

@@jimmyhackers8980 The problem is that the motor demand more than 12V. It's more like 50V.

You'd probably need to beef up the build of the cheater in order to stand up to this suckers torque and RPM. I imagine that he would bump it once and then have to go pry at least one blade out of a wall or monitor.

At that point (again, defeating the point of 3D printed fan "blades") just a high performance fan from an RC jet. Let's see, the box from the one I played with once apon a time: "powerfan 400/6 EDF Unit". At 12volts, 11a, 24,500 RPM 360gram thrust. Still have that one, good as a handheld duster for a tower case when hooked to a car battery. It was only bough because it was a cheap way to get the 3" casing and decent fan blade. Add an extra $120 or so (to that approx $20 3" frame and blade) for a performance motor which turned more than double that at 12v. THAT I don't still have, because go figure a cheap 3" mounted car airfilter doesn't catch dust small enough for a 4cylinder engine but big enough to jam a RC fan turning way to fast... If I had a better alternator, probably used some capacitors, and cleaned it often it would have probably lasted longer and give more air to the car, but I was 19, what can you expect. Point of overly long story being, there are plenty of methods to throw large amounts of air, many are just outside the scope of this particular project.

He did with a smaller motor, and it already was way to much for a fan! 💣

@@luca6819 to be fair that smaller motor is waaay higher RPM than this one lol.

@@luca6819 We can reinforce the fan, make it out of carbon fibre lmao

he cant run it long enough he said that the battery dies too fast

this would be amazing to see, and easy to test!

I don't think you'd see any real difference since in this case the air isn't being compressed. A roots blower doesn't compress air in the rotor housing like a twin screw or turbo. It compresses it under the housing (intake plenum in a car) and the blower basically acts like a 1 way air valve. That's not to say it wouldn't get heated from friction, but I don't think there's enough there to make a measurable difference. Just my opinion though. Lol

The cooling is mostly done to increase the density I though, even if the air isn't heated. Could be wrong though.

This is a good idea actually.

Actually I think you'd be surprised, those motors can definitely handle a lot more with enough power, even higher gearing. They're super torquey

My thought was to use playing cards as tip seals.

A 360 is a triple 120mm fan set up and pretty common, a 420 is a triple 140mm fan set up and common on more high end air flow focused cases. Both would be excellent.

@@gmailisaretard yeah, I know. I meant it in that way that I couldn't remember the size of the opening the supercharger has at the bottom. so if it's 120mm then go up to a 360mm rad. and for 140mm up to 420mm rad. I mean a 480mm radiator would also be cool ;P

Maybe ship yours to him instead.

Maybe he could borrow one, or go to someones business to use it.

Goooooooooooooooooood damn.... maybe electroboom can make me one lol

I have a mamba max on a HongNor rc can, and it can use 1050A peek for 22 sec. Ans 150A nominal.... maybe you need to modify a welder?

a few pc power supplies combobbled together will do that and be a lot cheaper.

A full charged 3s is like 12.6 would a normal psu have the balls to push it. If so what wattage min would I need as I have a couple laying around.

@@MajorHardware no. Just buy some batteries from CNHL, Ovionic Ampow, or even RDQ. You can only get 1800w out of a wall socket. I have a very high power PSU and it still can't match good LiPo's. If you REALLY want to use a power supply, look up meanwell 12v power supplies. You can probably get one that'll do 12v/100a but again, you're much better off with 10-20ah of 3s LiPo because even 10ah of Lipo at 20c is 200a

@@mitchellroberts7954 literally any good 1200W ATX PSU will do 100A at 12V. If you want more current there's also 1600W PSUs.

Of course you are right, but i think his point wasn't to really compare the thing to the fan-showdown as such a design wouldn't be possible with an a12x25 motor. It was just interesting to see how it performed. I'd say the strength of a blower isn't it's maximum throughput in a relatively unobstructed application, it can rather perform well in a high static pressure environment where a conventional fan will not have the ability to produce any significant throughput. Also testing the fan-showdown fans at such a speed (if they can even take it) would probably result in rather diminishing returns as evry fan design has a rpm range where it performs well (thats also why normal props, turbo props and plane turbines all have different blade shapes and counts). Hope what i said makes sense 😅

@@cycl0n362 Yeah aside from normal fans potentially exploding, after a certain speed they might not even push air anymore. Basically cause cavitation like a prop in water just much less damaging to the props in air. lol

It's a roots blower the lobs are offset just like a roots blower he showed this in the last video on this

Yeah, I was going to say, there's a lot of inefficiency in his design, given he barely is outperforming a conventional manufacturer fan with some aero optimization using a positive displacement style blower and an RC race car motor with a far stronger current.

How about he fixes the drive issues, before he starts trying to refine it?

Yea he said in his 1st video he wasn't trying to get a working compressor going for it. It's really just for funsies now

@@juicedmedia6623 ​ Ok, good point, I just went and watched that previous video, and unfortunately, it's still the wrong design. If you have incredible tolerances, then the straight lobe design "can" work, in an engine that's got an abundance of excess energy to throw at the problem and requires as much air flow as possible (oxygen). However, in this case, where air movement is key, this is about as efficient as manually waving your hand over the heat sink.

What you're describing is a centrifugal supercharger and I'm absolutely here for it. Please build one next.

That's a procharger.

Yesss!! If It can run a big GPU at 12v (3s lipo) It can also run a powerful Air Pusher!

yes the cheapest way to get a high amp around 12v psu is to buy a pc power supply. there's just 12v supplies for 3d printers and the alike where you can adjust it up and down couple of volts but they tend to get expensive too at higher than say 200 watts.

you all know that we aren't talking about a few 100W but more like 100-200A at 12V if he uses a good rc motor. pc powersupply can't ouput nearly as much as it is needed on one connector even if it could theoretically give that much based on the W. there is a reason why we connect that many split cables to the powersupply and not just 2 like in a car.

@@dovos8572 you can solder the outputs and use more than 1 conector.

@@felixorjales ... how to burn everything down. it is way too much work and pc voltage isn't as easy as soldering it together without destroying things.