It sounds 100% better, Sheldon, well done to you and David. A couple of things to double check, though, before you put any miles on it. Did you check the flow direction on the SU fuel filter ? They're directional, and there is an arrow moulded into the plastic body, or it will say in/ out. Get it the wrong way around, and it can quickly clog the inside gauze and give mysterious fuel starvation symptoms at intermittent revs. There should be the same type of filter, without the compression fitting nuts, fitted at the rear of the engine on the right angled brass pipe on the crankcase ventilation system. That filter, if blocked, can allow pressure to build up and cause oil to be forced out of gaskets. It should be fitted with "in" nearest the crannkcase takeoff pipe as it sucks crankcase fumes into the intake airstream. Just like with the fuel filter, the dirty fuel or air goes into the outside of the filter, and the clean stuff comes out of the middle, so you can see the state of the filter through the plastic case. The other thing to check is the water pump to heater box transfer pipe. It's the metal one bolted to the underside of the intake manifold. They're mild steel, and from the state of all that 50 odd years of solidified top end coolant crud, it would have been wise to replace it. They rot from the inside, and you'll get coolant sitting on the valley gasket once they get a pinhole. If it goes, you'll get a coolant air leak/ airlock / hotspot, and an erratic or undereading temperature gauge that can cause head gasket failure. They're easy enough to fabricate a new fit and forget copper tube replacement. You should be able to reuse the valley gasket if you've not done any mileage.
This is why I love old cars, a couple of blokes replacing engine components at the side of the road. Just like it used to be. This is why I love this channel. Keep it up guys, this is great 👍
Back when I was a young man we just blocked the car up in the air in a gravel driveway and worked all night to replace the clutch or whatever was needed so we could go cruising the avenue the next night. I still remember blowing the clutch on a medium blue 66 Chevelle SS396 one night and laying on the gravel pulling the transmission so I could put in the new clutch. Seemed like a lot of fun at the time even though the gravel wasn't that fun!
That thin pipe David was querying between the carbs and radiator is a water hose. It's the air bleed off pipe, and it ensures there's coolant flowing up to the plenum chamber, an no airlock in the highest coolant point on the engine. It's a water heated intake manifold, so check that thin metal outlet pipe isn't blocked, or you'll get a hotspot and fuel vaporisation.
You had the heater hoses correct first time. Bottom connection on inlet manifold goes to top connection on heater. In practice it doesn’t make much difference but the wrong way round can allow air to be trapped.
Your content just keeps getting better - respect. Now that you have a car with a reasonable body and engine why not keep her a while, pass your test and start taking her to car shows? Still missing Toad but you are, IMHO, not putting a foot wrong.
You can do jubilee clips with a socket, so it doesn't keep slipping off. There's a first time for everyone, doing all the different jobs there are to do on a car. Next time, you'll be 'on it like sonic'. 😂 What you learn here, you'll be able to apply another day, maybe the same job, or something a bit different. It's all really only nuts and bolts, a few spanners and a big hammer and you'll be able to tackle anything. Get some L plates on it. Enjoy it a bit before you sell it. 👍 Take care.
It does have a water valve on the heater box, it's under the insulation jacket. You'll get an air lock and a top end hotspot if it's not set to "hot" when filling it up. You should run it at fast idle, around 1500 rpm for at least 5 minutes once it's up to temperature. The coolant level should be around an inch below the filler neck, or just over the transmission oli cooler tube that is visible inside the filler neck. FCheck the coolant from cold and fit the radiator cap with it running at fast idle, or you'll always be running on low coolant as the heater matrix will drain down.
Good to see your getting the engine back up and running properly I know it's cost you a fair bit but at least you can work on it not like newer cars but owning a classic car is expensive is mum still not happy with you after the live stream you did 😂🤣 but at least you still have a mum who cares about you mate
Not good practice to use a screwdriver to tighten jubilee clips. They tend to slip and wear the screw slot. A wrench or socket (most current ones tend to be 7mm) avoids slippage and makes for a tighter clip.
@@classic_britain Halfords do a 25 piece, 1/4 inch drive socket set for 17 quid. Excellent quality and just the thing for jubilee clips and similar tasks. Sockets from 4mm to 14mm, uj and extensions. Treat yourself and make your hoses tighter.
It will circulate fast as there is a thermostat bypass hose to direct hot water around, from the water pump, to the heater matrix before the thermostat opens. A P6B's heater should start to receive rising temperature coolant, and give off heat within minutes of startup.
Have you shimmed the rocker shaft posts to ensure correct tappet/valve clearances. Were there any shims when you previously removed the rocker shafts ? Incorrect clearance may have caused your previous tappet problem
Pretty sure that expansion hose from the radiator shouldn’t be going to the inlet manifold! Should not that vacuum outlet go to the distributor advance mechanism?
