I brought a film format back from the dead 

This is great news. I’ll have it a go. What would you rate the iso when shooting with an Infrared filter?

@@Socialmocracy Im using an ISO of 6 with an RG 715 filter (similar to an R72)! Thank you very much for this experiment with the aviphot! Your post on reddit pushed me over the edge and I also bought one of those, im also cutting the film with a nightvision scope, although this one is a military model. I achieve illumination of my darkroom by an external 940 nm IR flashlight. I also did a fogging test, 30 minutes under direct exposure at a distance of 30 cm to the IR LED leads to a significant fogging! So be aware with the IR LED. I Illuminate the wall and therefore the darkroom, and by using this indirect lighting, it is possible to work with the film for long periods of time without fogging it. The OD of the fog of my roll is at 0.15, in rodinal, which is so damn low. I think that the roll behaves as a "fresh one".

@@codysergeant1486 that’s awesome! I’m happy to have inspired you. May I ask when you film date of expiration is?

@@Socialmocracy Its Oktober 2014!

@@codysergeant1486 I have a diy spectrometer. I’m going to see what parts of the spectrum my NV goggles emit. It might not pick anything up. I made it for laser light. I do remember it showing some spikes around 808nm when I used my IR lasers.

The night vision goggles really helped. I am working on a jig that can cut the film as I pull it through. I think that will cut my waste down and decrease my time cutting and rolling.

Wow I didn’t know about this. Makes sense, I’m sure there is something similar all over the world. Thank you for sharing.

@@O.Persson Thank you, it was a very fun project. I’m glad to see there are more people than just myself interested in this camera.

@@picnet I made a second video talking about the film and the NV goggles I am using. For some reason they don’t fog the film. Maybe they are very narrowband emitters maybe very low power or could be I lost some sensitivity to the film because of age and how it was stored. Did you make a video on that camera? I would very much like to watch it. I love how sharp even 120+ year old cameras are. It really has opened my eyes.

@@Socialmocracy I used to upload quite a lot and deleted my content due to dwindling views. Unless the title is "restored an old camera and nearly burned the house down doing so", e.g negative they dont get many views. The camera looks similar to the detective cam in this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE--1SRPOVwVOA.html except the detective camera plate mechanism was different & didn't work as well as the one in the Merkur.

@@picnet I feel ya on the views. I think all them channels saying stuff about getting lots of views and followers is easy is just more click bait. I’m enjoying the grind atm so I’m going to keep up with it. I need to fix my box cameras. Should try and make something out of that.

Hey there, I’m glad I inspired you. Unfortunately you can’t just use 120 or any other film format with adapters. The film plane is curved as well as the film gate. You have to make it ride in that gate. You can cut sheet film and load single shots. I did this with some black construction paper and x-ray film to test that cameras function. Bring a dark bag and change the film in the field. With something like the 4B you can order the large roll of aerial film and cut it in half with some excess waste. This would give you two rolls with every cut. I describe some of this in the next video on my channel if you are interested.

Thank you! I’ll be working on a video this week. Setting up the camera in my house and trying to photograph some rooms.

If you are interested in something that takes an easy and accessible film format a Baby Al-Vista and Panoram-Kodak No.1 both take 120 film. The Kodak one took 105 film but it is the same width as 120 but not as long. Using the 6x9 numbers its frame 2-6-10-14 making 4 6x18 negatives and the baby al-vista I believe is a 6x17 same numbers as above. The main difference between the two is the Al-vista has fans to control and change speed as well as Waterhouse stops for aperture and the Kodak has only two different speeds and no aperture control.

I’ll try the higher concentration. That might help. The NV goggles will let me develop by inspection. I only have manual development tanks. It sounds like constant agitation is key. I saw on Matt’s large format Friday he was using pyrocat to great success with this film. Thank you for the help.

Thank you for the advice. I was able to develop an image with the concentration you described above. I also used agitation similar to E-6 film developed. Pyrocat HD FTW!

⁠@@Socialmocracythat’s good to hear. Glad it worked. Looking forward to seeing more from your adventures with the Al-Vista. Great results so far.

@@MezeiEugen Unfortunately I think I may have had a hand at draining the market. About a week ago there was 10-12 units on eBay. Mostly baby AL-vistas the 120 versions. This morning I checked and there was only 4 left. 😞

Thank you. I will look into this.

Im still working the camera. Coatings is on the list. I am going to do some brass blackening on the Waterhouse stops soon. I have used some musou black as well as some new felt on parts that needed it. I have seen some photos of the OEM Waterhouse stops and none of them look like they were ever coated raw brass all the way. I’m sure the one that I have painted has increased the contrast and sharpness. Thank you for the advice. Always nice to talk about this stuff.

I placed an order this year for two rolls of 90mmx50 foot. I got refunded yesterday for that because the global minimum was not meant. Sucks 😞 but on a positive note someone is sending me 100 foot of Ilford FP4 10 inch! Can’t wait for that. Should be here today. Probably someone’s old cirkut camera film stock. I wanted to grab a Horizont or even the older FT-2 I like how wide that FT-2 makes and image it’s like the Viscawide-16 but not as wide as that 5:1 aspect ratio. Thank you for sharing. I have yet to try moving the camera while it’s making an exposure.

@@Socialmocracy you have to save up and order 12 rolls next year... and probably win the lottery beforehands. I haven't gone all Jeff Bridges and moved the camera either, I meant the camera was stationary and I took the exposure while the train was moving past me "against the swing" which made it very short. The Horizont takes so many images per roll, there is more room to experiment and be silly than your 6 shots per roll :)

@@cabbelos yeah no lie. $500 for two rolls. Idk how I could afford 12. Oh?! That sounds interesting. Capture moving traffic and pan. Hmm 🤔 interesting. I know what you mean. That shot of George Clooney is so awesome. It shows how well Jeff knows his camera and the results shows.

Thanks!

@@FrankTitzeArt I have been work on and off with making my own emulsions. I have successfully made a 20ish iso emulsion for glass plates. But an issue comes up. I have been unsuccessful at using the off the shelf optical polyester plastic available online. I’m having trouble with the emulsion not sticking and lifting off during development. Separately, I was working on a 14x36 inch ULF camera till I ran into issue with woodworking. I’m having trouble making a usable film holder. So I started working on this project and put a hold on both the emulsion and ULF camera. I have a lens most of the camera built and bellows. Do you have any post about your camera online? How did you make your cut film sheet holder?

@@Socialmocracy I have the base construction for the back standard and the base for the 30x40cm. The front is an ordinary Toyo standard for all movements I'd like to have. I am not yet yet ready to share a lot., but it is a serious project as I purchased sever lenses for that design, a 75 and 90mm repo-camera shutter (24V DC) for which I just programmed a shutter,, lacking housing. And I have several parts like focus screen and fresnel and other stuff laying around. Bellows is missing.also. The whole construction is made by 20x20 X-profiles and so will be the holders outerframe. Yes, the tricky part is still indeed the film holders. Here I changed several time my design.due to reasons: cost, weight, build-ability, flexibility. Right now I plan for black fiber plate as the base plate. Likely 3 mm, the darkslides will be 1mm. I plan not loading like any normal holder, but from the "exposing" side. using a frame to hold down the sheet on all sides with 1cm frame. The pressure shall come from magnets. I consider still also the feature to have with help of reduction frame also 24x30cm material or even others also optional loaded in the same 30x40cm holders. 24x30 is the max size for single sided mamo x-ray films and it offers more flexibilty with lenses. Plan is to have the camera ready to use for next Spring. The idea with the magnets I saw here, despite that the rest of my holders is different and also two sided: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-l2XBu0WjeK4.html BTW: I also consider ways to develop the xray films scratch free.. While I as considering tanks for a while, I will try to got to trays but have the film in a frame under tension. Background: So far I was only successful with the xray films (9x12) in Rodinal..... But being a 1-time developer, it produces a lot of chemical waste. So I have to minimize the volume as far as possible. One element will be the punching of office binder holes in my 1cm sheet frame hold the sheets in frames. Reason is obvious: I do not plan to make just a a few pics and then give up..With current xray film sheet costs in Germany for 24x30 (Mamo(1,30 $/EUR) or 30x40 (dual sided 0,90 $/EUR) is the film material itself (not the chemistry, archive sheets,...) in the ballpark of medium format picture costs (Ilford/Kodak). As indicated, it is too early to claim victory..., but I'll try further to get it done. And in meantime, I still need to find time to shoot still fullframe digital(BW/color) and analog (BW in in MF and LF).

@@FrankTitzeArt I had similar issues when building my 14x36 inch. The X-ray sheets here in the USA is $75 for 25 sheets or about $3 a shot. But at 504 square inches. It is the largest film you can buy. Ethan’s 20x24 inch is legendary. That dude had it all figured out. I got my base, front and rear standards built. As well as the bellows and back. I need to complete the ground glass and film holder as well as lens board. I got two lenses so far. A very wide angle 500mm and a 1070mm. The 500mm somewhat covers it. The corners are soft not as sharp. Unfortunately I have yet to find single sided x-ray film in the 14”x 36” inch size. I have developed with glass in the tray and my 8x10 shots have had no scratches. Flat bottom or add a piece of glass should help. Also dip and dunk tanks. I was using Kodak Dektol 1+5 for 2-3 minutes at room temperature. This got me about 20 sheets of 8x10 developed. I only changed it because I saw hairs and other debris in the liquid. Otherwise, I don’t think I would’ve needed to throw it away. I’ll add a link to my album here if you are interested in the progress www.flickr.com/gp/197703301@N08/271427P5A0

I want to work on a backing paper for mine. I have only used it for dry plates. About a year ago, I had a bunch of glass cut for it. It will be a future project for sure. Thank you for sharing.

It is emulsion inward facing. It’s all film no leader. That sounds like a really nice size image to work with. What I got was an all black tube and in the tube was a black bag in that was the film.

Hey thanks for the information. You wouldn’t happen to know the approximate cost?

@@Socialmocracy i bought my 30 m spool of type 42 (135 film) for approx. 70$. That's without shipping.

@@Robinzon544 Thank you for the information

@@Socialmocracy you're welcome

@@MezeiEugen I’m sure you can try. I don’t have anything like that. Mostly because I haven’t tried. I know you could also buy new old stock of 122 rolls. That backing paper fits perfectly and is light tight.

You are right. I’m still learning. I will do better next time. Thank you for your comment.

@@Socialmocracy any time. I partly just wanted to warn you that RU-vid was sending people here first. Now that I look at your videos, that was probably pretty obvious to you lol. Looks like you have a decent start. I wish you luck in building the channel!

I have a few Kodak folding brownies 3A cameras. I want to get them up and running as well. The problem I had with buying new old stock was the cost. I believe it’s about $60 a roll on sites like eBay. If you give me a hour or two I’ll make a new file to add to my posting. I’ll make the space between 3.25 inches. They are not the best. You will need to round the edge of the film so it doesn’t get caught going in. I don’t have the time atm to fix the design but they will work for now.

@@Socialmocracy Yeah it is a problem trying to locate rolls, I got lucky finding 5 122 rolls for about $75, I probably waited about 3 months though for someone to list a roll for cheap. And thanks a lot mate! I appreciate it. And dont worry about the loading issues anyway, ive found these larger roll film formats have those issues regardless because of how much the emulsion curls. Looking forward to future videos though, Ive really enjoyed watching someone who has gone through similar issues with older cameras.

@@ClementinesCoins Well it took me less time than I thought. Print it out test it and let me know. I have yet to make anything for 122. Something for a future project. Anyways you will still need the top part from 101 reel. Let me know how it works. It’s all available in the same posting.

@@Socialmocracy Thank you! ill see if i can print and test it within the next month or two. I really appreciate the help!