Today we take the Rlaarlo Omni Terminator and take do an ultimate upgrade to it. Will this make it the worlds best small RC basher? Is better than the 1/16 Traxxas VXL? Will it destroy all 1/10 scale Arrmas? Let's find out!
@@justonjacoby4455 Yeah and I've tried that with limited success. At least in my experience going through mud and stuff like that you usually just end up with muddy grease
Wow, what an incredible build! You’ve outdone yourself with the Omni Terminator FULL Upgrade. The attention to detail in every installation step is impressive, and seeing the upgraded Terminator in action - it’s like a beast unleashed! The performance is off the charts. Thanks for sharing this awesome transformation with us! 🏎💥🚀
If you're in the market for a smaller RC I would definitely recommend it. It's not perfect but I would say it's probably the best sub 1/10 scale RC you can buy right now
I think the 1.5 mm head screws are definitely something they could address in the future but to be fair as long as you're careful and use good tools they won't strip. It's definitely not ideal but I'm not sure I would consider it a design flaw.
Another great instructional video, I love the tips you weave into the discussion about the fundamentals of RC building. Learned a lot from you bruh, appreciate it!
I love my terminator. I have done a lot of the same upgrades and atleast for my driving style it is bulletproof. I can't think of any trucks the size that handle so well. People think I am crazy but as far as fun factor it's one of the best rcs I have and I have a rather large collection! Great video as always sir!
Yeah it really is good. The only problem I have with it is landing big jumps it tends to bounce and flip over but to be fair it's not a very big truck and I'm not sure the suspension could ever be made to handle hitting the ground from 15 ft in the air.
Can’t count how many bearing I have replaced in steering bell cranks. They do bushings cause they last longer with dirt and water VRs bearings. Not uncommon and more basher friendly. On big cars bearings are better being the size of them last longer.
Maybe but you would think if that was the case then higher end bashers would use bushings instead of bearings. And my experience only cheap cars use bushings in the steering which leads me to believe it's a cost thing. Strangely I haven't really replaced any more bearings and steering than I have in anything else.
My Team Magic e5 ARR uses bushings as well. That thing is definitely on the more expensive end as far as 10th scale trucks are concerned as well. I actually did replace them with bearings once, but as I couldn't for the life of me tell the difference I went back to the bushings.
The bushing used in my old nitro truck wear off pretty quick and introduces a lot of steering play. After changing them to bearings, i have no more issue at all..
Mini blow torch works far better on thread locked screws, soldering iron just dosn't get the screws hot enough or heat penetrated deep enough. Especially on motor mount screws & diff mount screws, where some manufacturers go over the top on amount of thread lock used on screws. Also some factories use red or perminant thread locker, some even use ca glue instead of thread locker. Blow torch makes short work of undoing screws, obviously you have to be carefull of any plastic parts close to the area being heated.
Maybe so but I've used both methods pretty extensively and I find that well the soldering iron method does take longer and you need a good iron in order for it to work in some cases it's still superior due to the fact that you really can't harm anything around it like you can with a torch.
@@DoRC I agree on the torch being a bit rowdy, i've scorched my Omni's diffcase trying to get the center shaft outdrive off, lol. But i also have a background in RMA electronics repair, and definitely noticed the difference between bad/good irons and lots of/little thermal mass on your workpiece. Thermal mass can be a beach. I'm a fan of the torch, where possible, because it's always powerful enough.
Great content! I am genuinely surprised that this channel isnt monetised and almoat feel disappointed you arent being paid for the amount of effort you clearly put in to these videos
Excellent video! Really wanting to add one of these to my fleet! I'm constantly looking at the Carbon Roller version as I already have the electronics it needs and it gives me more money to spend on the upgrades lol
Definitely a fun truck. I would consider getting the servo adapter that I got as the stock servo is an odd size and you don't really have a lot of options for it.
The spacers needed for the aluminum hubs are a cost saver for them and us. This design allows an easy way to adjust wheelbase using different spacers and washers. But then again this isn't an onroad car where you would want to fine tune the wheelbase for different bodies but it's still an option.
Great video. Always great to learn something. May have to check out some of the conformal coating. I don't normally run in water and mud on purpose but things happen. Rlaarlo and some of the lesser known companies have really been putting out some great products. Great for the hobby. More good competition usually means everyone has to step up there game.
Awesome video. My only complaints with mine are I wish Rlaarlo would make a better mounting option for relocating the ESC to run longer batteries. Zip tying it to the center brace just doesn’t seem very secure. Also the ability to tune the stock ESC would be nice. The brake force is way to high.
Agreed. They wouldn't be too hard to design in 3D print something that would go on the rails and given that they include the ability to run longer batteries they definitely should have come up with something for the ESC. I'm honestly surprised they don't have an upgrade option for it.
Yeah it actually has quite a few improvements. The gears the carbon the better transmitter and receiver larger motor and ESC and supposedly the body is made out of lexan whereas the alloy one is made out of PVC but they feel the same to me.
Thanks for sharing . I like it . 👍 I’ve learned a lot about the RC s here . For me , this car has been super fun to learn how to jump a ramp in my backyard . It went in stages , lol . Lots of cartwheels , couple lawn darts , cpl rear hits . One time I jumped straight into a tree . Nothing broke which suprised me . I hope we can see more about this car . Mine s still stock but parts are incoming . Mr me dos went all out and it looked to be really quick in his vid . I don’t think it ever went to full trigger .
Thanks for doing this, as nobody else, not even the company is doing this. The Omni is getting great love everywhere, but i'm missing one thing in this video: the car seems to have lots of wear (comparatively speaking) on the diffcups/outdrives. Lots of us were wondering how the full S2 dogbone+drivecups/CVD's and diffcups would perform in terms of wear. Obviously driving style is a factor, but it'd been really nice to see how the S2 driveline upgrade, which has to be near half or one-third the car's value, would hold up! I did notice you may have kept the standard diffcups in the rear, with the s2 dogbones, so you may be up to something already, i'm not sure :) Oh and thank you for just doing this channel for the love of it.
I don't have a ton of packs through it yet but so far I haven't really noticed anywhere on the cups. I actually ended up leaving the stock front differential in because I only ended up getting one differential in my order. I guess we'll see how it goes long-term though.
@@DoRC ahh, okay! What i thought, is maybe you were testing the combination of S2 upgrades with standard parts. People have been saying their S2 diffcups are eating their standard dogbone's pins (shaving them off, not breaking) and the S2 dogbones are eating the standard diffcups jn the same fashion. Not many reports on the latter but in theory that makes sense; rlaarlo has stated that the comparative hardnesses of standard/S2 parts makes them incompatable with each other. They were comments on FB groups; they haven't released any actual statements afaik. What also makes it tough to get a good reading in those groups; not everyone mentions if stock/4s. But lots of complaints about the wear, just very little reports of how a pure S2 drivetrain on stock power performs in terms of wear.. I, for one, really wonder. It's a good sign already from what you did in the video, no wear is present. 👍
@insanebmxthomas interesting because it seems like the pins are the same material on both the S2 and the standard dog bones. I'm probably not the best person to test long-term wear because I have several different vehicles I'm usually driving at any given time so none of them get a ton of use.
@DoRC i figured, but it would be telling if there was already some wear on your parts. Since you ran it on 4s from the start, i would argue that the upgrade S2 parts are probably stronger, although probably not wear-resistant. Which is normal, but until now excessive wear was the big issue according to the community :)
The drill is definitely a surefire way but it's also potentially one of the most difficult ways depending on how much screw you end up with once you've drilled off the head.
The servo, the cvd and the ball bearing in the steering set are, in my opinion, the only upgrade needed. All that aluminium will notnimprove anything, high quality tough plastic is, in my opinion, a cheaper and better option than any metal. Also for a basher i would have loved an high torque servo saver, consideing the possible landing and the stress that servo will be througj. Still nice video!!
I mostly agree. I even said as much at the end of the video:). A lot of these parts look good but especially on this car which is already so tough don't really add much. Fortunately with as good of a servo as I installed you can get away with pretty much as locking up the servosaver. Glad you enjoyed :-)
I usually skip straight to the drill and extractor set on stripped screws. Usually doing things the hardest way first saves time in the long run. What's the ballpark total on all those parts? Excluding electronics you have to be getting close to the original purchase price. As it sits you have a big brand 6s basher priced terminator. It sure looks good tho.
All of the upgrades actually cost more than the original truck and yeah it's definitely up to the price of a 6S basher but I try to think of it in terms of the fact that I would probably be upgrading the 6s basher too.
I was with you on the best little RC car basher until I seen those Traxxas tires 😂😂😂, Traxxas tires are about the worst big name RTR tires that you can possibly get . Good video dude love gour channel👍
Our upgrades are fairly similar besides I put a spool in for a center diff and I did the upper arms simply because I am an alignment guy. Oh, 6s too. These things are a trip out the box and only get better. I got mine to 72mph on Hoons.
Not sure. I got the screw pretty hot. Unfortunately the screws in this car pretty soft so even with the slot it's still ended up just ripping through. To be fair though you're right I didn't want to cut a big groove in the chassis so I just decided to drill it out after that.
As far as torx bits go s2 tool steel tends to snap rather than strip the tios and xv torx bits tends to round off the tips instead of snap or break. Just a little personal experience for ya
Love these little trucks, you can basically do anything you want with them and with basic maintenance they will just keep going, these upgrades have definitely improved it dude great job man, only thing I hated was the stripped bolt lol game me bad anxiety 😂😆 but you defeated it in the end 👍
Yeah the screws on this truck definitely aren't the highest quality so you do have to be careful not to strip them out. This is especially true for the little m 1.5 head ones.
I don’t know why they need to have them so small when they know it’s gonna get wrenched on at some point and then to loctite them aswell is a bit backwards because so much time goes into making the cars visually appealing so to then have to potentially damage the chassis with a dremmel tool just to remove nuts and bolts seems weird to me lol I guess it just comes down to more metal equals more money
@@lyricalcoma1979 I really don't think it was a cost saving thing. To be honest it feels more like whoever did it just didn't understand that screw size is inappropriate for this type of vehicle.
Nice vid. Loved how you turned the stripped screw into a teachable moment. I have the cf version and plan to keep it on 3s. What would you recommend for the biggest pinion size on 3s?
That I'm not sure. I haven't really done much experimentation with gearing on this truck. The best thing to do in most cases is just buy some gears and see what works best for you. You're bashing style will always affect what gearing is best so it works for one person might not work for another one anyway
I like that brand servo , the cheaper one they have is few bucks more than Amazon ones and a lot better , with heating screws the mini blow torch works better ,?usually you here a crackle 😂atleast with Arrmas
I would do exactly what you did . 100% . No alum arms . I just got a re build pack for the 3s rlaarlo truggy and I won’t be using the arms . For this I got the hubs and 17mm but might not use them depending if I find some tires 4” ish tall I believe 108 mm according to rlaarlo is the max height range but … i just got back from a large construction site with a k6s . They had sloped ramps everywnere and slag spread and rolled flat . There was jumps everywhere DO RC ! It was rough though . It was my first time at a spot like that . I m used to the grass and the same ramp , lol .
I found the metal shielded bearings to be better if we’re talking cheap bearings , I still have Arrmas original metal bearings and they’re way way better , we all acted like it was a upgrade , I don’t like Slop”! Few thousandths wear and lots of slop heck I think they were better than fast Eddys
Hmm. Maybe it depends on what type of terrain you're bashing in but I'm usually bashing in wet and in fine sand and shield bearings don't last very long in that type of terrain for me.
I ordered just hub bearings from Amazon because diff bearings last , pretty cheap so I figured no reason not change often but I blow em out constantly really just inner hub one because it’s so thin , I
Hello :) great video like always :) Rlaarlo also brought to the shop new aluminum differential boxes.I just got mine and they looks awesome :) I'm waiting when my default parts will break and after I'm planning to swap all S2 parts plus aluminium differentials with boxes :) Hope that S2 diff cups will be stronger bcuz mine started to worn off after 6 battery packs :(
Same here hahahaa I ordered the diffs and S2 parts at 24th of May and saw boxes at 28th , bought It straight away and the funny thing is that It arrived before the package which I ordered at 24th XD
Great video, I really appreciate what you do with the OT. Question: do you have any issues with heat at 4S with the original motor? Or did you change the pinion? I am struggeling with high temps in the summer in my backyard at 3S and standard motor and pinion.
No issues on 4S with the original motor. I'm using the original pinion. When you say you're having heat issues what is the actual temperature of the motor?
@@DoRC I did not have my heat gun at hand but I could not touch the motor and the car started cogging. I am using a 60A Max10 btw. I will measure the temps next time.
@facedezizi4252 Yeah definitely check it with a gun. Too hot to touch doesn't necessarily mean too hot to run with a brushless motor. Physical discomfort starts at around 135° for most people and modern brushless motors are good up to around 190. As far as the cogging the motor getting hot really shouldn't cause that unless it's getting so hot that the magnets are losing their magnetism. That's really really hot though.
Got the roller and a lot of the same upgrades. Using similar low profile servo on upgraded mount. That mount doesn’t work with 40 series motor, fyi. Motor too long so using kingval 3660 2600kv instead running on 4s. Ran into same problem with stripped 1.5 screw but on the pinion set screw. Stuck with the 27t pinion now and the motor runs HOT on 4s. Any advice on removing the pinion without a bearing puller? Tried a butane torch but I couldn’t break the thread lock I used. Tried your other tricks without luck. Worried the 27t is gonna blow it. Was at 170° after one pack. Also what double sided tape do you use? My esc won’t stay stuck with all the abuse. Think the heat caused the tape to release. Great video. Great basher. Btw the upgraded shock screws are a must. The stock ones bend at the offset.
The two options I would try for the pinion would be to put the gear in a vise and try to use a punch to hammer the motor out from it or just drill out the grub screw. Either one is likely to damage the gear though so you might want to just buy a new gear. They're not terribly expensive. That being said 170 is warm but not dangerously hot.
My biggest problems with mine are the battery coming out,and the upper shock bolts (front especially) bending in tumbles because they're nearly the same height as the body mounts.
I haven't had any issues with my battery yet. Have you tried a better strap? Yeah upper shock mounts are pretty common to be damaged. I wonder if there's something else that could be adapted that's stronger.
@@DoRC stock setup entirely. Gonna try the included parts for a larger battery/2 straps. I think the shock bolt issue could be solved just by raising the body 1/4" or so
@@DoRC dog bone pins shear off. I swapped the s2 diff cups and stock dog bones after and that killed them quicker. I should have went straight to the s2 dogbones so now I'm waiting on parts. Someone else I know did the s2 dog bones and the diff cups and now he's chewing up diff gears(he's on 4s) I hear you want to adjust the droop screws a bit to take some angle out of the driveshafts and avoid doing self righting
@@DoRC using the 40mm series motor mount also requires a huge pinion so with my 4068 2650kv and 45t pinion on the stock 65t spur on 2s is faster than stock on 3s
Love mine but same speed as you and only 3s so lighter. I think 4s is overkill for this. I over power my rc's just don't think it's worth it on this one I love mine. My servo mount should be here soon
The vehicle actually doesn't affect top speed it only affects acceleration. Were you testing yours off-road? I like to test top speed in practical off-road situations because that's how most people will be driving when they're bashing. On road with ideal conditions this would probably do 50 miles an hour in its current setup.
Yeah that shouldn't be a problem. I originally got the low profile servo because that was planning on putting a receiver box on top of it but there is a decent amount of extra space so a standard servo should fit fine
Yeah maybe though this thing will do standing back flips and has more power than it can handle in a straight line so the motor that's in it does feel sufficient at least on 4S.
Do you recommend this car stock or is it only good after upgrades? I was looking at the laegendary thunder brushless and putting a 3s on it, this one looks a lot cooler but price is a big difference as well
This car is very good stock. I have heard some complaints of the output cups wearing relatively quickly but that's going to happen with cheaper cars as well. Overall in my opinion this is the best sub 1/10 scale car you can get right now.
I have a question for you.. i noticed on my sledge the stock servo held the line leading up to the ramp much better than my 70kg brushless servo , i noticed while they are off rge stock servo is also much harder to turn than the brushless servo which is supposedly alot more powerful, so is this just how brushless servos are compared to simple digital or coreless servos ?
If you're having problems with the new servo staying straight it's possible that It has a pretty large mechanical deadband which basically means that the servo horn doesn't always end up pointing in the same direction. You can test this by holding the truck still turning to the left noting where the wheels end up then turning the right and noting where the wheels end up. If it's two different places then there's definitely a problem. As far as ease to move by hand the higher end servos usually have higher quality gear trains in them which makes them easier to move. The highest quality servos can actually be moved by just grabbing the output with your hand and turning it. You'll never be able to do that with lower quality ones.
@DoRC right on, I really want one of these or the mjx 10208 once it comes out looks really promising with the 4s capability out of the box, I'm sure both have their pros/cons like every RC.
Not necessarily. There are some specific places you want flex like in the arms but there are other places where the increased strength of the aluminum is a benefit. I think the hubs are probably unnecessary but don't hurt anything but the steering components are definitely good.
Buogiorno friend I subscribed to me even the relatives does not do anything I have to commit myself. I wanted to thank you for your beautiful videos, I also bought the carbon fiber terminator after your video I wanted to ask you to use a 4S lipo that I should change the engine and ESC?. Hello from Rome Italy
Love your channel! But why didn't you just use an extractor and save yourself some time and avoid the damage? When are you getting the new mjx hyper go 10208? ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-JgIKuFJSMgg.html
I did try and extractor unfortunately with screws that small they often don't work just cuz there's not enough surface area to get a good bite on and if you drill too deep you just drill the head of the screw off. Not sure when I'm getting the 10208. I ordered it a little while ago and hyper go told me that they're working on some changes to it before release which is supposed to happen at some point. I don't know how this guy got his.
I think it just depends on your frame of reference. For an ultimate upgrade build this is definitely a lot less expensive than most of the ones I've done.
Buogiorno friend I subscribed to me even the relatives does not do anything I have to commit myself. I wanted to thank you for your beautiful videos, I also bought the carbon fiber terminator after your video I wanted to ask you to use a 4S lipo that I should change the engine and ESC?. Hello from Rome Italy
