I Built This to Make My Bandsaw Safer 

HI TIM, I WAS THINKING OF DOING THE SAME THING, I TUNED THE ANGLE OF THE BLADE BY PUTTING A WASHER BEHIND THE LEFT SIDE OF THE BEARING CARRIDGE ON THE SAW, THIS WILL TWEEK THE BLADE TO THE RIGHT. TOOK ME A FEW TIMES TO GET THE RIGHT THICKNESS OF WASHER, BUT THE SAW CUTS VERY STRAIGHT NOW.

Nice sled. Remember guys, as my father used to tell me, "measure twice, send-cut-send once". Thanks Tim.

I had the same issue (not cutting straight) with my Dewalt porta-band in that SWAG stand and I ended up shimming one side of the top blade guide a bit to correct it. I used a piece of 3x5 notecard folded a few times until I found the proper thickness. Nice sled project, appreciate your content.

The blade pointing to the side is because the roller guides are set up that way. Look closely and you'll see it's just not twisted by quite 45 deg. Maybe you could put shims under the roller guide blocks. I'm interested to see if you can solve it because I have the same problem trying to get straight cuts with the Harbor Freight band portable saw stand for the same reason.

Add a replaceable aluminum sacrificial piece to your fence so you don’t score it. It can also be used as a jig if you need to make multiples of something.

I had a similar problem on a (chinesium) bandsaw that I reserve for doing exactly what you require. I went through at least three makes of premium quality blades with no or little change. I rebuilt and re-crowned the drive wheels and improved the angle adjusters. I mounted up the table on an inspection slab, and guess what, the slides were out of square with the table! I ended up making a much improved table with more robust and adjustable mountings and slides. I built a much improved adjustable blade guide as, according to the material being cut, the blade deflected at slightly different angles, due to the amount of ‘draw’ that differing materials and thicknesses of material, place on the blade and therefore the cut. Many hours of work and £150 later it still wandered, but just not so much. I learned a lot but the solution was, get the right machine for the job. No matter how much you polish a turd, it’s still a turd.

No.1 to reduce drift is a sharp blade. No.2, blade tension, no.3 blade guides spaced apart to suit material thickness. Have a look at the methods of timber veneer cutting. Bandsaw blades are so difficult to keep dead straight, especially on anything less than industrial level rigidity. The method uses a post set to the desired veneer thickness and then the timber angle is adjusted to allow for the blade drift. I can see a metal cutting sled work better if it had a pivot so you still have all the hold down and control, but you can adjust the cut as the blade drifts. Key part is to ensure the pivot is at the blade teeth, but that can be achieved with a circular table and matching socket in a sled slide.

Tim, Nice simple design mate 👍 I’ll copy the idea when I get my bandsaw this year. Thanks for putting in the time 👏👏 Robert

Hey Tim, i would like to see you build things. You’ve done it in the past but id like to see you build things step by step. And more often. 👍🏻 Love the way you teach.

I love the design you came up with. I made a sled/vice combo for mine for all the same reasons and it made all the difference in the world. It makes all those weird little cuts super simple!

Great idea, thanks for sharing, all the best to you and your loved ones

Very cool sled, nice work!

Excellent presentation, thank you for sharing this. Question: I couldn't help but notice your milling-machine there. Which looks splendid! Can you tell us a little bit about that? I want to find something like that. Is it CNC mill?

thanks Tim, wonderful idea, cheers from Florida, Paul

Great idea... I'm going to have to design something similar. I'm thinking a way to remove the fence and reposition it so you can cut 45s. Maybe as simple as bolting it into the base?

By the way, a Milwaukee 14tpi bandsaw blade for metal is good for 2-3 dovetail bucksaws for hardwood. They'd last just about forever with reasonable care

Thanks for the SCS discount, saved me $41!

Nice design, Tim. I generally leave the mill scale on if it’s a smooth surface covering the entire plate. I’ve found over the years that it’s harder and doesn’t get damaged that much. Additionally, it’s smoother, so doesn’t scratch the metal moving over it. Also, it’s non reflective and easier on the eyes and parts can be seen more easily too. I know it’s not to everyone’s taste, after all, it’s MILL SCALE, no good. Eh, not so much.

I think that's a great idea. You're right, it needs a little more tweaking, but you're definitely on to something. I look forward to seeing what you come up with to make it perfect. Please do it soon because I need to copy it, lol.

Very cool great idea and project 👍

I like it Tim. Always good to see your posts :)

Very cool. I made something similar with .25" angel and flat bar. I put a .5 inch gusset where the blade cuts. Over time you will cut through the back plate, so add the gusset now. I have the same problem with slightly off cuts, but having a sled is so nice, and the cuts are accurate enough. Wish I could send a pic of my sled.

Good idea Tim . . . . have a great day!

@TimWelds right now all I have is and angle grinder to cut metal for welding. What should I think about getting next... portable bandsaw or a chopsaw? Since I'm a diy'er I don't have alot of room or budget. I would say versatility is more important to me than speed. The reason the angle grinder isn't enough is I can make long / straight cuts. But maybe that's a skills problem with me.

Have you done a video on your mill? What brand is it? Recommendations? I'm starting to think about one and I'm i trigued by yours.

Nice job Tim. I like my Swag stand but have never been able to get a true or square cut using their miter gauge slots...perhaps I too need a new blade. Fortunately I have a stationary belt sander that is spot on true for squaring up cuts

That is a great idea for small pieces. I think some of the problem is that the blade guides are far away from the work piece. With a wood bandsaw, it is always preferable to drop the blade guard down as close as possible to the work, in doing so, it also lowers the blade guides. But you are right, it could be the blade sharpness. Blade drift is always a concern for wanting straight cuts. Thanks for the video. Watch you again soon.

Very nice project Tim. The one thing I don't like about the Swag fixture is it doesn't secure my Milwaukee bandsaw very well (wish it held it tighter without any movement. Thank you for the video.

if the blade drifts it isn't tensioned tight enough. On those cheap little saws that's often not possible

Hey Tim. Really enjoyed your videos! On an unrelated subject. I just purchased a Titanium flux core welder and all the odds and ends needed along with a Yeswelder auto darkening helmet. When doing some practicing, such as a t-joint, I can see my welder pool ok, but I can not see the joint I’m suppose to weld, causing me to drift off target, leading to more of the weld being either in the vertical or horizontal piece. Ironically my first weld was perfect but subsequent tries were not, drifting either up or down a bit. Is it just a game of faith, hoping to hit that seam perfectly or should I be able to see, at least a little, the line I need to weld? Thanks!

thank you!

Nice.

Do you have a link to the chamfering tool you used?

Nice video , but you have a mill why did you send it out? Add a sacrificial plastic to the fence

I do woodworking but enjoy your channel. I was making a cutting board with small inlays which I could never get right on the bandsaw. Instead I would superglue or use two sided tape to secure my “mini” pieces to a larger sacrificial board which allowed me a safer cut on table or miter saw. I was wondering if you could make a miniature table saw with a cut off wheel and use your sled with both your band saw and a newly created table saw. You would have to sacrifice a cut into your fence but I think your fence would remain functional. I would love to work with metal but too late in the game for me I will enjoy your channel instead 😊

Slot the rail mounting screw holes to allow adjustment of the alignment. Maybe also use an adjustable angle fence. My 2 cents. I’m stealing your idea for my vertical bandsaw. 😎👍

@TimWelds how much does one of those milling machines cost? I imagine you also have to think about the cost of bits as they are consumables?

I would have the slot go right through the fence. You’re going to wind up cutting it anyway overtime, why not have the blade walk right through?

It's not a new blade issue. I've been using that setup for 10-15 yrs and if you want a straight cut on long/thick material you need to adjust as you go. Worn out or dirty guide rollers will make it worse so replace those as needed.

I think all of these saws cut crooked like that. Mine does even with a new blade.

Woodworkers have been using sleds for years - they're safer and you get more accurate results.

Send Cut Send is so overpriced.

go back to the drawing work