In this one, we're wiring a new circuit for a massive 20kw smeg range cooker ! thanks for watching the video, and for more....just subscribe, its free 😊
Wow. That was quite a little journey through the guts of the house to install that cooker line. You seem to be quite good at finding the wiring routes. Amazing talent brother. Keep up the good work mate. Ryan ain't so bad either.
That's a lovely wisteria at 0:12 Really nice job, surely you're coining it in with quality work like this and will have a view like this of your own very soon!
Love it as always mate, nice to see a tricky job with a normal RU-vidr. That cable looked flexible but maybe it was just the way you pulled it through together which looked like a flex. The blower at the end I'm sure pantene pro v will offer you a sponsorship advert "because your worth it💁♀️". Keep them up ✌🤙👍👌
For what initially seemed like it would be a complicated cable route, I think I was able to keep up with explaining for at least 80% of the route. When I watch CJR or Nick Bundy, they go through their plans so quickly, I’m lost after about 20% of the route, and I just feel dumb. Must be great going to nice locations like that instead of usual inner city places I bet.
Appreciate the good feedback Phillip 👌🏼 but to back up the others a little bit because I’ve done this myself too at times, it’s hard to keep in mind people watching may not even be tradesmen let alone electricians, could even be trainees etc, so sometimes we just naturally speak under the assumption people do know what we mean 😀 and yea I love working in places like this, or anywhere I wouldn’t normally even go/see
Great job done a bit bigger trunking next time. It brings memories back for an old electrician (70) although I sill do some electrical work now and again. Keep going you’ll soon have more subscribers.
Hello 👋 😂 Only just got round to watching this, but kudos on the difficult route, a bit of pre planning makes the job go better 👍 Definitely outside the Manchester M60 zone with a view like that 👌
Big up sean and ryan just been watching a few of your videos im currently doing electrical installation at college just need to find my self a apprenticeship
Nice job as usual, looks like one of those jobs that when you first look for a cable route you think, or even say "how the feck and I gonna so that" and then it comes together. 🤔
Nice video as always bud. How come you used LSF? Was it spec’d or just preferred? Bet that cost a pretty penny!! Had a similar run myself this week, but thankfully I used the dewalt laser measure to give me a pretty good idea of what was needed and didn’t end up wasting much ir having to pull it back or not enough 👍🏻🙌🏻
Nice video as always. Do you cover the Littleborough area? I have a customer looking to install an inverter and battery storage and a G98 application which is something I don’t do. If it is something you do will be happy to pass your details on if you would be interested.
Proper loving these vids keep them coming. Just a quick question. Do you still use your long drill bit with the wooden ball for downlightsI think its from super rod which I see in one of your earlier videos, reason I ask I'm thinking of getting one but not sure how they perform.
Thanks mate. And no I’ve only used it once maybe twice. The drill bit on the end is held on with a grub screw and I lost the bit. Never really got enough use to tell you if it’s good or not… but I’d say you don’t need one personally
That Velocity bag looks mint. Have you got a video on it? Always looking for solutions for the back of the van. Nice video, mate. Bet that cable was an absolute c**t to strip. Hahaha.
Not got a specific video on the bag but I did show it in a brief detail in one of them tho… no idea which video it was 🤦🏻♂️😂 If you notice the cable has a grove in the middle… it’s easy strip LSF 😂 usually yea, it’s a nightmare !
How do you price off the job for example you used a hefty cable which must be priced at a silly price at the moment do you charge the customer for the whole drum or just the length you think you used?
so first I’ll visit the job, measure the cable run and then I’ll quote for the length I need, this one if I remember right was 25Meters I quoted for and used about 23meters. So usually pretty accurate. When it comes to bigger sized cable like that, you can get them cut to size if you need to also. Rather than buying 100Meters.
Volt drop on this would have been around 1.9% if I remember correctly. The calculation for it you’ll find in the regs book, bit too long winded for me to type out 😃
If house had a couple of electric showers already fitted and you needed to fit that oven, how would you go about getting round the maximum demand or is it a case of you can't.....
1st time visit.. very impressed, route thought about prior to bashing the place apart too. Good housekeeping too tidying up as you finish a section. That flying lead off the back of the Smug cooker looked gruesome, did I the conductors fit in the isolators ok, especially as they’d crimped ferrules on them? Need to get some metre long SDS drills for these old house drilling jobs or when your GP says keep away from work. Liked and subscribed ....
Really nice job 👍 Question on safe zones, how do you ensure when doing such a long route that you are able to keep these zones? I am guessing most of this route was keeping to the edges of walls/ceiling which then covers it? Great content, cheers
Great installation as normal Sean! I understand the cooker diversity equation slightly different, but i could be wrong. 20000/230 = 86.9A Then i take 10A away from the 86.9A then i find 30% of the remaining current. so 30% of 76.9A which is 23A. Then i'd add that first 10A back to the 23A getting 33A as my final answer. I remember watching a John ward video about it a few years back and im sure he explained it this way.
Oh I see, this also sounds the right way now too. Maybe I’ve somewhere along the line mixed something up and ended up with my way 🤦🏻♂️ not sure now. I’ll look into it tho. Either way the result wasn’t much different still. Thanks dude, appreciate it tho, always learning as they say 👏🏼
Yeah I had the same cooker to wire up at one customer. Applied diversity and worked out around that so installed 6mm clipped direct under floor with no insulation on the way and 40A RCBO. Already been 6 months and the client haven't called me to say the cooker is tripping. Honestly I was a bit worried when it turned up thinking damn that's beefy.
Doesn’t the manufacturer just specify the size of breaker needed for the thing? Whatever rules of thumb you use to calculate it, the manufacturer is gonna know a lot better than you how many of the elements they’re going to turn on at once. And frankly, for a thing like this, in the year of bloody 2022, I’d expect it to have enough smarts that you can just tell it how big the circuit is and it’ll just work with what it’s got or throw its own error code. But at the very least it should be specified as never using more than 32 or 40 or 48 amps at a time (it’s continental so I’d expect it to be primarily designed for 3x16 or 3x20, tbh.)
Manchester I thought you where in Cheshire Sean 😆😆 I would of worked the diversity out exactly the same way as you plus 5 amp if the cooker switch had a socket outlet on it. Nice job as always, is that cable Doncaster easy strip lsf? I first seen draka cables make that stuff years ago and couldn't get used to the look of the stuff it's like figure of 8 or shotgun cable. Funny seeing Ryan having a boogie on the piano 😁
Close to cheshire now tho yea 😂 think it’s actually pyrysmian easy strip but not 100% sure. Yea I remember the draka one aswell, much easier to use init.
Your right it is, it’s just LSF as I’m sure youve seen but you can also get “easy strip” Not sure if that’s the real name or just what it’s been nicknamed but yea, it’s easier to pull the cpc to strip it 😂
Silly question is that wouldn't it make more sense to have this beast of an oven have its own little fuse box? Like a garage unit? Instead of trying to squeeze it into the main breaker unit?
That would make sense rather than put it on the RCD side like I planned, but I changed my mind and went with its own rcbo, so wouldn’t make any difference if it had its own consumer unit anyway. But… there’s never a silly question 😊 thanks for watching too
Hi. Love the channel. Just looking at your diversity explanation... is it not 30% of the remainder after deduction of 10amp.? Not 30% of total amps. So.86.9 amp.minus 10 amps first. 30% of 76.9 = 23 amps 10amps plus 23 amps = 33 amps. Plus 5amp if socket outlet on switch. You have got me thinking now.....?
You got a thing for 10mm eh? Last time SWA and this LSF. Bet your wholesaler loves you 😅. Nice little video m8... though you could have done Ryan on that old Joanne' a bit better 😉. Funny anyway👍
Cheers dude 👏🏼 welcome to the channel ! LSF is just a different grade of cable, the pvc sheath is low smoke and zero halogen if its ever in a fire. Mainly used for commercial / public buildings.
@@Cablesmith thanks just has a new circuit installed for my cooker 13.6kw and when I saw the 32a mcbo they used I thought that ain’t right 😆 I was then educated about diversity 😋
A great video and excellent work, as usual. I bet Artisan are jealous of your work! Regarding the diversity calcs, John Ward did a video on this very topic, and quoted the same method you used, I seem to recall.
@@Cablesmith I would always do it for high end light fittings and ovens and other equipment. I have spotted so many issues with cheaper fittings friends of mine have brought. I have been doing this now and it takes your testing to a completely different level not only do you know that circuit install is safe (standard testing) but you know when you left - the devices on that circuit we’re safe as well. I use the Gossen mettrawatt secutest pro I must say an amazing machine but very expensive.
@@mathman0101 interesting. I usually just use my MFT for earth continuity/IR on appliances since I don't do a lot of PAT testing. I've got that Kewtech adapter that links L->N and allows you to plug an appliance in. Apart from convenience, what would you say is the benefit of using that dedicated device? Would you even bother PAT testing an oven when it's primarily resistive loads that won't be connected during a dead test anyway? I guess you could do earth continuity for peace of mind.
@@havoctrousers yes that’s correct on IR and continuity but there are also related protective conductor resistance and current. The Secutest pro is a serious bit of kit with quite a few live tests that can be carried out as well such as touch currents and various types of leakage tests (primary, applied parts, patient etc..) using different standards for various equipment and even medical standards with very low leakage thresholds used internationally) I have used these standards to mess around and get really through tests on various standards and thresholds including European/German and many US private UL laboratories testing requirements for electrical safety for equipment. Try this manual very informative: go.hipot.com/rs/414-IRJ-976/images/Guide-To-Electrical-Safety-Testing.pdf
Do you use Denmans in Trafford Park? The manager was mentioning a customer on RU-vid but didn't know the channel, I mentioned I watch Nick bundy and Artisan electrics aswell as CJR
I went to the "toolbox" in Walkden and it had just opened, he said one of his customers called Shaun has a RU-vid channel when we were chatting. He lives in Atherton the manager.
@@Cablesmith he said it was the trafford branch that you use, the walkden branch is new, it only opened a week ago & he was asking if I knew Shaun off RU-vid, he said lives Irlam area.
@@Cablesmith very good and excellent work not easy working with 10 Square,all wire over here is now as standard LSF very very expensive and not nice to use
Fast becoming my favourite RU-vid spark. Could you maybe show a bit more stuff like physically lifting boards, figuring out angles for drilling etc. enjoying you explaining your thought process 👍🏻
Hi sir this is an increasing problem for the domestic contractor to have to deal with , we have always relied on diversity to come into play . But I can well see in the future a point will be reached we’re the average 100 amp incoming supply, just isn’t enough . Air source heating,EV charging, and of course mega cooker are going to prove a challenge . All though long retired I still like to see how the industry is doing and how different contractors approach different jobs . Best wishes and kind regards 😀👍👍👍
I didn’t actually, I only seem to offer that on board upgrades tbh, but now you’ve mentioned it, I’m going to start offering it yes. Never even crossed my mind
Considerstions for volt drop? And for the calcs, you can also multiply your number by say 0.1 for 10% 0.2 for 20% 0.3 for 30% etc nice quick way of finding a percentage figure.... Great video as always dude. Peas.......
just one concern here, using a 40Amp mcb, with a worst case 1.45 tripping factor, gets us to 58 amps. 10mm in most cases isnt any good for 58 amps, especially in the route you showed. I would have used a 32A mcb, this then gives a tripping current of between 36 and 46 amps, still plenty to go at and gives the cable the right amount of protection.
I hear what your saying, however I believe the tabulated current carrying capacity’s of the cables have a bit of a “built in” margin to take into account the characteristics of over current devices. Like you say a worst case of 1.45, (not to say it wouldn’t be faster also) the cable itself wouldn’t just reach its max capacity and just burst into flames similarly to how the rcbo would have a delay after 40A. However I’d consider this cable route clipped direct so 64Amp capacity anyway.
@@007floppyboy yea I know what you mean, definitely something I’ll take more into consideration next time for sure and I do appreciate your feedback dude 👏🏼 some things are not just as simple as stick a cable from A to B.
With a design current of 33amps you cannot use a 32 amp breaker. 40 amp rcbo was the only choice. 10mm clipped direct has a CCC of 64 amps. Surely no issues with this install
@@user-yw6qb9tt7t What? Are you kidding me? 1) a 32 Amp mcb will not even think about operating until about 36 amps, in fact it absolutely must not operate before this point. 2) this 32A mcb will most probably operate at about 40-42Amps, some not until 44/46 Amps. 3) The 10mm is fine as clipped direct, but when it passes through that much wall, it has to have a derating factor, not sure how much wall there is but it looks like 400mm give or take.
