Its a sad day in the shop as we pull apart the RB28 in the GTR. In the last video I showed a clip where I mis shifted and threw a check engine light and limped the GTR back to the shop. Lets figure out what we damaged.
Don’t let any of this distract you from the fact that Hector is going to be running 3 Honda Civics with spoon engines, 3 T66 turbos, with NOS, and a Motec system exhaust.
It's comical how easy it is to shift from 2nd gear to 3rd gear in these cars. I honestly laughed when it happened considering how easy it was to shift this car when I drive em.
@@emilianofajardo9487 Shift pattern is exactly the same, only thing that changes is what hand you use to shift with. RHD doesn't change the gear pattern
This is a really painful video, but I appreciate this type of video. You're incredibly open & honest about a shit situation and we appreciate it whole-heartedly. These videos are great none-the-less.
I really enjoyed and appreciated you guys brainstorming and explaining what it was you were doing and seeing, from someone who loves cars but has limited mechanical knowledge, it was great!
The reason you always take out all the spark plugs to do a compression test is which it should have showed up in your test is if it has a bad spot in-between two cylinders with the plugs in it will not show up but with all plugs out it will 99% of the time
@@duanebailey6253 I have been working on motors for 30 years and like I said it matters most of the time but like I said not always. It matters how bad the head gasket is blown. TJ's if you look it wasn't bad because he shut it down fast, if he kept running it would have especially when it eats a grove in the gasket.
Make sure that you check piston to deck height on every piston while you have the head off. If you over revel it, had a blown head gasket, and coolant leak issue, you could have possibly bent a rod, or squished a rod bearing. Good to check now before you slap the head on.
TJ, Also get the replacement parts that you need when you do maintenance, like main seals and any other seals that need to be flown in from Japan. You can cover each part with vasoline (assuming they are ok to be contacted with petrol )and vacuum seal them with a vacuum seal bag. then when its time to use them degrease them and clean them nicely so you have the parts on hand. Keep them away from sunlight and oxygen and they should last 10 years
Honestly gotta say, very sad this happened but this is one of the MOST interesting video you ever put out, digging deep into a rb26 is really fascinating, learned alot
If you remember a few episodes back during the build/tune on the car, you guys had mentioned you noticed a good amount of smoke coming from the tale pipe which could have been the start of the gasket going 🤷♂️
Didn’t hear you say it but it would be in best interest to also replace those studs if Ian is saying those rear nuts didn’t crack when removing them then it is highly possible that they won’t torque down properly not 100% likely but it’s better safe than sorry
@@boboso7238 you ain’t lying I jb welded my drive shaft back together 4 years ago after it split in half and it’s still together vibrates a lot but it drives
Leakdown test called it on the last vid. Been through it before. Pressurize it and the air will find a way out. You probably detonated on the over rev it's alot of cylinder pressure. Glad it's only the head gasket I've had much worse outcomes.
That money shift could have caused an over-boost, lifting the head and torching the head gasket. And of course, like everyone else mentions, make sure to replace the head studs. Seems like you stretched the back ones.
spaced metal head gaskets are the way to go, Turbo L series motors only last with them because the extra space allows a more forgiving combustion gap, and the metal has a lower chance of blowing out.
That is the EXACT area the block fails in Rb blocks, CHECK THE HEAD STUD GOING INTO THE BLOCK!!!! There may be slight cracks showing on side of block. if you magnaflux the block you should see it. CHECK THE BLOCK!!!!
In RB's if you machine a bore to be straight without a torque plate, and clamp the head down, the same bore that was straight prior will start to show distortion. Same issue can happen if you significantly increase clamping load on the RB if it was torque plated with a certain type of headstud. Increasing the clamping force from when it was torque plated with ARP2000 headstuds, to say ARP625, can cause changes in the bore which after some use can be visible scratching in the bore, or unusual wear in the tops of the bore. In this situation would be best to get a new set of the same headstuds the motor would have been machined with @@Raceman
Check the valves for seal, the most common result of misshifting is actually valves touching the pistons due to very high rpms at that point. You might have bent a valve or two.
@@fabini14 lol? Chill with the big brain attitude. It might be but there’s a lighter colour gold in the crease where I think the crack is. I didn’t see the compression test so it’s just off their word. Wouldn’t doubt them trying to sell parts and be less than forthcoming about their condition publicly. Could have just been overlooked in editing. My engine has better compression numbers than this but bad leak down. Still drives fine and have run it like that for years now.
@@171JUSTIN basically said that by design the gaskets can leak, but they don't usually give problems. But if they do, just replace them, but saves money in the initial build.
I have lifted a few heads on my cars. With that said. I always take the head to get inspected by the mechine shop, order new head gasket and new head studs. For the block side I visually inspect the block and put a straight edge on it to make sure it’s within spec. Over the years I have learned that my motors that are either o-ringed either on the head or the block are much better at not lifting heads.
That's super weird that it blew the gasket. I wasn't expecting that purely because it's not common considering the circumstances. Must just be how the motor is spec'd out.
Exaclty, that engine most probably had bad timing due to the over rev, then it blew the head gasket. With only the head gasket blown it can still rev up and run, even the first compression test was ok so the car should still run. Also you can hear it miss firing evenly not only 2 cylinders.
its actually a very common thing to happen when a head is lifted, especially considering the motor was over revved, its not like lifting a head from to much boost or not good enough head studs, as well as the head being lifted, there is so much combustion at 10-11k rpm or whatever rpm it may have revved out to, im surprised it didnt blow the head gasket worse
This is why you always check the studs after the break in period. Things change after a few heat cycles. But even still the added harmonics from the over rev will be enough to damage things. These blocks have no bracing at all. The spoon ceo breaks it down well comparing blocks. Think it's when they rev the b16 over 11k.
Definitely looks like a piece of the valve is missing, definitely look at the valve next to where the head gasket blew, it may just be carbon but even zoomed in on looks broken
Im sorry that happened to your new car Teg, i know how disappointing it is to just get a car on the road and have it buggered in a couple of weeks lucky you have a mad crew.
Hi Tj, sorry to see you have troubles with your amazing car, i hope you sort it very soon, by they way in the UK we have a tv drama series called Coronation street, you remind me of Ryan minus the acid scars.
Im kinda shocked that the transmission doesnt have a first gear lockout. Maybe it's a possible change that can be made? I'm not sure at all just throwing it out there.
Its a manual gearbox, MANUAL ie its not an automatic so no it does not have a first gear lock out. Could it be done with a computer and numatics, of course but then you would just automate the shift fully and you have an automatic gearbox. The point is that it takes a certain level of skill to use the manual and that is part of the attraction to master the fast 1/4 or lap. TJ just fucked up here showing off his huge wallet.
@@MrHughk1you obviously don’t drive a manual buddy, they have had first and reverse lockouts for almost two decades. Maybe don’t cut someone down when you have no idea what you’re talking about. Having5 or 6 gears and a lock out of 1st doesn’t “basically make it an automatic”, you just don’t have a permit yet so are going off of video games.
@@yourdaddy9622 Reverse yes, first is pointless even if it has been done as if you do one you need to do all as you are de skilling the driver, which makes it basically half way to being an automatic, only a clutch actuator is then required. Dont be so presumptuous yourself, im 56, got a degree in mechanical eng and work on cars and bikes for fun. And remember we are talking about early 90's tech before people catered for the lowest achiever at the expense of everyone else. Getting an award just for turning up breeds idiots like you and the commenter.
He could brick a $5 car or a $1,000,000 car… it’s TJ, he’s got ZERO clues about cars and it shows in every video…. One of the reasons I watch it is to get a laugh at someone “so accomplished” in racing and cars knows absolutely NOTHING about cars and can only read a script and not a repair manual…. Sad
Clean the block surface and run a straight on the deck to make it’s not warped same for the head surface, and new head studs for sure and check the block head studs holes make sure the back ones aren’t messed up
why'd you take down the video from yesterday, did you not want people to see the yellow r34 in the background that may be the next giveaway car or that tommy is coming down to help and do another project?
Well, I mean these guys aren't mechanics. They're RU-vidrs with money. I mean, I'm sure they know their fair share. But that's why they hire other people to work on their cars
What did you expect? As others said he’s a youtuber. But from your comment he still probably knows more than you. You just criticised without giving any advice. 2 guys who do know. 3 if you count tommy took a while to figure it out. But I’m sure you know more.
My moneys on that head gasket being poo since day one. The mis shift just nailed it. When the builder says the gaskets are crap and doesn’t replace it with a trusted brand to keep costs down on a half million dollar Datsun there’s something not quite right.
I’ve built a couple RB’s that are still living at high horsepower. What you should really do is deck the block and head, and use a Nitto head gasket. They are basically an O-ring style gasket that work great at high horsepower. They just need a fresh/flat surface to work properly. Also, I always set the head on the dowels and then insert/finger tight the head studs. Torque up the nuts. Start the engine and let it warm up. Dump the oil and then rip the valve covers back off and retorque the head studs after a heat cycle or three. Also, not money shifting helps a lot. Something, something mechanical sympathy. Screw that, I plan on CRUSHING on my 2.8 Nitto build. Good luck bro. Love the RB content.
The smart play would have been going to a reputable builder and use what he recommends for the build. Would have been a quarter of the price and handle way more power. N1 crank with aftermarket rods and pistons for the win. No twin turbo nonsense. Way less heat and no need for low end tq in a turbo car.
@@duanebailey6253 I agree. I’ve used the same engine builder for 2-3 RB builds, with great luck. And all of my builds, including my current Nitto 2.8 stroker have been single turbo. My new build is also going shimless bucket, which I’ve never done before, but I’m hoping I will be able to rev this bad boy to 9k rpm or higher if it’s still making power up there! Just trying to help TJ because not many people build RB’s over here yet, and they require almost no margin for error. His HKS stroker would have probably been fine if he didn’t money shift, living at ~600whp, but since it’s all apart, I would recommend doing what I said. Get it to a machine shop, get it all checked and decked, and re-torque the head again after a few heat cycles before turning up the power.
It's true that it's difficult if you don't know what to ask or ask for advice on the RB engine, this is the same thing that Adam experienced when he first had an R32 sedan and he met the GDR god Andrew Hawkins @@BrianCrofoot
when you striped the motor the first time was there not already a blow head gasket - and when you guys assemble it did the measure the block and inspected in-between the a straight edge and a feeler gauge or did you just assembled it before assembling this engine please measure and do a die test on the block as well by dyeing the block and taking a marble counter top that is straight and run it back and forth to take the die of and if all the die comes of its right but if there is still die on between the cylinders then you now you have a low spot as well check on the head of any low/high spots you can check by just you're eyes
Taking all of the spark plugs out and doing a compression test, all it is going to do is have a little more higher PSI because the motor's turning quicker, that's it either way is fine.
All good champ it happens. Ive had a good run with RBs. Many years also broken some. We drive them it will happen. See ya at Laguna. Ps You can rotate the engine with the alternator or power steering pulley. The compression test wws definitely wrong. Best is testers in each cylinder one shot and done and or all plugs out, fuel disconnect (cas plug) WOT test.
