I took the new Arrma Outcast and nearly doubled the power! Will it survive RC monster truck bashing on 6s? Is this the new King of bashing? Will it dethrone the Traxxas Maxx as the most durable out of the box RC basher yet?
Yeah hopefully a good aftermarket upgrade becomes available soon. They're already a couple of options but none of them are ideal. The market is definitely ready for a good solution.
Yeah I've had some pretty wild cars over the years but I believe this one takes the cake for fastest rotation speed in the air. I've never gotten a 5X backflip off that ramp before.
Had the same issue with the straps bashing today. Batteries kept popping out without enough Velcro touching. Then realized i was doing it wrong - you need to take the loose strap over top of the ‘plastic tab’ BEFORE feeding it through the hitch. Then the strap sits on top of the plastic and has plenty of contact to hold. Seems obvious in hindsight… Also, the Kraton is a beast. Don’t think you can go wrong either way.
I'm not sure I understand what you mean. I just ran the straps the way they came from the factory. My problem was that with the plastic pieces on top the straps had to go down the side and there's almost no room there with the batteries I was running
I didn’t pay attention to how it was when it came from the factory. With the battery in I threaded the strap under the plastic so when it came out the plastic was between the two sides of Velcro and the only contact was if you tried to tuck it down the side where there’s no room. You’re supposed to put the plastic down directly on top of the battery, then thread the Velcro over the plastic and through the hitch. Then the Velcro - the hook and loop - are both sitting on top the plastic and the straps work like normal. I had the plastic separating the hook from the loop so there was no contact until i got past the plastic and all I could do was try and stuff it down the far side where it could stick. With the plastic laid flat against the battery (fuzzy side sitting face up on top of the plastic) it’s no different from normal except there’s some structure to help hold it in place. Does that make sense? Is the the issue you were having or something else?
@user-ql6dm8xh6q okay I see what you're saying now. No The main problem I had was that the strap that didn't have the wiring connected to it didn't fit properly on top of my battery so I would end up just having a corner of it touching the battery. That and the front strap broke pretty much immediately.
Wow! I’m really impressed that it held up to 6S power. The previous version with the slipper clutch probably would have failed. I bet 5S would work well 👍
Yeah definitely requires judicious throttle control. Those standing backflips were at about a quarter throttle. If I went full throttle id just blow the tires apart.
It depends on the jump you're doing. You don't necessarily have to let off the throttle as it's the rotation of the tires that causes the truck to flip though if you don't let off the throttle on some jumps it could cause the truck to start to flip on the jump which can make it not go very well
This video is so cool! The car does stunts super easy and I’m very surprised that even with hard hits everything was ok 😮. This car definitely is a blast!!! In my long RU-vid tutorials watchers experience 😂 I think I’ve never seen something as agile as this car in the air, handles like an Fpv drone lol
Yeah more power is good for lots of backflips but it's already got plenty of power. This is more for a bit of fun than something I would seriously suggest people do.
I'm glad u left the stock 2400kv motor, and hell ya 5s. Bcuz I had a 4s kraton v2 4s and I put the 150amp and 2050kv into it. And it twisted the slider cvds. And I never ran that truck on 6s.
I think most of that issue will be ameliorated with the center differential. Without a center differential The rear wheels are experiencing the full power from the motor all of the time. With the center differential, even with really thick fluid in it, that torque is lowered quite a bit.
Yes you have to get creative if you're going to run 5S. You can either use an ESC that supports it or you can disable LVC and use telemetry to monitor battery voltage or just keep an eye on it some other way.
Yeah I agree. The same crap service either that they've been using since the 3S line first came out should not be on these trucks. I'm very surprised that no one in the aftermarket has come out with a really good replacement. It doesn't seem like it would be that hard to do and I feel like they would sell a bunch of them. The hot racing one is an improvement but it still has the same problems
Really surprised the plastic drive axles held up to 6s. I had a big rock that I used to run on 4s and it would destroy an axle almost every time I drove it.
Yeah these axles are nothing like the big rock axles. I did manage to twist the rears when I did this on the original V2 but with the inclusion of the center differential they are holding up just fine.
im debating on upgrading my Big Rock 3s to the Outcast 4s arms and CVDs because they are way better. but should i just buy an Outcast 4s? it would be about $200 to upgrade....
@ruuster83 I'd say yes. For an extra couple hundred bucks you get a whole other car. You could probably sell your Big Rock for the difference if you wanted to.
Yeah the big Rock 3s has always had axle issues. It's because it's got the longest arms of the ARRMA 3S line and that means the telescoping driveshafts don't really have a lot of surface touching each half, so it over-torques easier
No I actually removed it on the 4S ESC and then swapped out the ESC. Don't worry as I was swapping out the ESC I was scratching my head about it too. That being said I'm going to use that ESC in something and whatever it's going in I'll only use one battery.
Yeah I'm not fully convinced about Max durability yet just because I don't have as much experience with it but so far it's holding up really well and has taken some hits that I really thought were going to break it.
@@DoRC You must not be as attracted to curbs the way she is. She has bent two Sledge chassis so far and never had the wheels off the ground. I just give her a Supra and some asphalt now.
You know as I was swapping the ESC out I was asking myself the same question. The reality is though that whatever vehicle that ESC ends up on I'll still want to have just one connector on it so It wasn't wasted effort.
@@DoRC I did think the same after I typed the comment Love the channel will definitely be getting it when it’s available in the uk thanks for the review truck looks amazing 👍
@@DoRC that’s great news. I was curious if the center diff was going to hold up, but so far they look to be tough. Can’t wait to see what it’ll do on 5s. Hoping it will give it a more manageable speed and punch than 6s.
@@DoRC I had a system out of the infraction and tried to swap the whole system but the can on the motor out of the infraction wouldn't clear the bearing on the center driveshaft.. but it fit in a 3s big rock so it wasn't a total loss.. lol
I think something like the hobbywing 1650 KV motor is the largest motor you can practically fit without a different motor mount. It's plenty of power though
The MST NS high torque servo saver fits. You may want to sand down the chassis slightly where it it’s at it does touch but just barely. I personally never did anything about it and it worked great. PN from amain: MXS-820126
I actually cut the connector off of the 4S ESC as I plan on using that one in the long run. What you saw at the end was the 6S big rock ESC which will go back in the big rock eventually and will retain both connectors. Thanks for watching :-)
Power is calculated by multiplying the amps and volts to get watts. The 16.8v 120 amp ESC is capable of around 2000 watts. The 25.2v 150 amp ESC is capable of around 3800 watts. That about 1.9x the power. I did round that up to 2x though.
Ok I see your calculating power output not input. Yea you did round up. Alright cool video! So in all actualitie an 8s truck puts out more than double 4s truck? Like 3 times power? Am I correct?
@@ReactionRC It just depends on the best vacations of the ESC and of course the motor. There's a lot of different ways to calculate it and All of them are just going to be estimates. Personally I like the wattage capability of the ESC because that seems to the most consistent way to compare.
The input voltage doesn't inherently affect BEC voltage. By being said certain ESCs have the ability to output 7.4 volts or even 8 volts while others are limited to 6 volts. In this case the stock ESC already can do 7.4 volts so there was no difference.
This is a ridicules mod and some would say pointless..thats said by boring ppl..... Ridiculous and pointless mods are awesome and it's the way of my ppl😆😎😈
Not quite. The power is calculated by multiplying the voltage by the current and the stock ESC is 4S or 18.8 volts at 120 amps. That's around 2000 watts. The 6S ESC is 25.2 volts at 150 amps which is about 3,800 w. So it's 1.9 x the power and I rounded that up to 2x.
@@Frumba57 there's no practical difference. Argument could be made that the increase number of teeth could technically create more friction which would cause more power to be lost as heat but I don't think that is something that you would actually notice. Ratio-wise they are identical
I haven't really found that. It's been a little while since I drove the one that had them but I found this to be reasonably stable and fairly maneuverable for a short wheelbase monster truck.
