It always cracks me up when the wizard is like, "I apologize for the background noise" and I'm like...... "huh?" and then pause the video to see if I can tell the difference.
I was the same !.....my PC fans make more noise !..people complain at the slightest little thing , they expect 150% quality on the vids...hes covering himself
I just wanted to say Thank You! The dealer wanted 5k to replace the turbo for an underboost code and after watching your video, I replaced the waste gate solenoid and that fixed it for 70 bucks! I told the dealer from the beginning it wasn’t the turbo but they insisted. I would have paid the money and that still wouldn’t have been the problem. I hope more people see this and check this first, I changed it myself and has been perfect ever since.
I have a 2016 LR Discovery HSE Lux and I think this video may have just saved me from buying a whole new turbo!! 😳😳😳 @ronwalde7024 where did yI come find this part?! Atlantic British?
It would have been cool for Wizard to bring the Discovery to the nearest Land Rover dealer and have one of there techs diagnose it. See if they would have diagnosed it the same as the Wizard.
They would probably diagnose it just fine because they'll have a proprietary computer that will show more codes etc, and that solenoid would probably show up as a fault. But they'd still charge 150 for hooking up the computer, 250 for the part, and 250 for fitting it. So although I'm sure they would diagnose it just fine, it wouldn't be cheap.
They'd find 4 more things "wrong" with it. The total estimate would be in excess of $2,500, and that would be due to flat rate diagnosis, $129 hourly labor, 20% markup on branded parts, shop supplies used in determining faults ($80 for two rags, a set of latex gloves, and 6 shop paper towels), then estimated shop supplies, base $120, used during labor. I worked at a dealership for 15 years. Vehicles we didn't have the expertise and/or tools to work on got farmed out, and occasionally that meant the vehicle had to go to a dealership. HOLY SNARKIES!!! We thought we could add fees. Dealerships, especially for BMW, Volvo, Mercedes, and Land Rover absolutely murder with parts, labor, and fees.
I am a Land Rover tech and I commented to the wizard in his first video about His new disco this exact issue. So yes we would have done a correct diagnosis
My coworker has a 2020 model it’s been at the dealership for three months they can’t find a problem he’s going after them for a lemon law and get his money back this vehicle is one of the biggest piles of crap on the streets
There are definitely bigger piles of crap. The problem is people want too man things from there vehicles. They don’t want to drive so engineers figure out systems to remedy the fact that people would rather be on there phone than drive and participate in driving. Not sure what you career is but mechanics are asked to do more now than they ever have. Sometimes there is nothing we can do to remedy the issue and it’s a software issue or engineering issue and we are stuck waiting till engineers develop the correct software or fix for what ever it is. So mechanics are less than ideal but I can’t tell you how many times we get cars at the dealer that independent shops couldn’t fix and we did. So the pendulum swings both ways and you really should put the shoes of a tech on and what we have to deal with.
Back in my airplane days, waste gates were controlled directly with a cable from the cockpit. You'd pull it until you got the boost you wanted. It worked that way because engine load was steady for hours...no stop signs and no hills to climb. The computer control was between your ears.
Hi Mr wizard I'm impressed with your diagnosis and I solved a low power boost on my Toyota coaster bus by removing the cathartic exhaust system with a free flow system since it 's mandatory on my ISLAND.
Good solution. I can tell you as diagnostics/ moduler repair guy. This is what i telling to my friens, if they going to mechanic shop. Ask them, if they will install a part and it will not gonna fix a problem, who gonna pay for it? Im telling my customers, if i swap a part and it will not gonna fix your issue, part is gonna be ON ME! This is what rare mechanics/car tech guys can offer...
luckily, only those who can afford to buy a Land Rover, buy them. They got no problem with the expenses and the having to own extra cars to drive while these sit at the dealer waiting for backordered parts.
When I was in high school, my parents couldn't afford to buy me a car. But they did have one sitting in the garage unmoved for 2 years or so, that they had no plans to fix. I asked if I could have it if I fix it, and they said yes! So I did. Tons of things to do, but I worked on it a lot! One issue was a starting problem that it actually had since they bought it (salvage title). Since it sat, the battery would be disconnected a lot. One day, I got frustrated by the rounded off screw on the negative (side) terminal, so I went and bought a new pair for $2. The result? Zero issues! I had dreaded the worst since it was a salvage, and I found some creative wiring in certain places. But a $2 screw is all it needed to fix an 8 year long starting issue. Awesome lesson for everyone WIzard!
@@strateshooter1402 What an idiot thing to say. The alpha wolf "study" that your thinking stems from was found to be, ahem, "non-representative". They took wolves from several packs, put them in captivity, and expected them to act as they would in the wild. Turns out they didn't, and therefore didn't act naturally, and wolves have not presented "alpha" behavior in the wild.
Wizard you are so right man ! Here in Australia, the turbo intercooler hose on my 2.7 litre V6 Discovery 4 developed a very fine split. Diagnosed after 2 hrs by LR main dealer shop as “ failing top HP pump soon to implode” therefore requiring new pump + main rail + all injectors - “estimated cost” of $20,000 - $22,000 plus taxes. A very well qualified referral to my now 5 year Indy who quietly listened to my tale stepped back directly between the headlights rubbed his chin stepped forward put his hand way down beside the radiator and came up covered in black greasy oil. A $190 OE replacement hose plus 1/2 hour labour later - all fixed. 232,000 kms later - still going strong no other major problems along the way.
@@williammccormack1950 Isn't that the reason why the rich stay rich and the poor stay poor? The rich buy a pair of boots for $100 and that lasts them 10 years at least. The poor pay a pair of boots for $20 and it lasts them only through the winter...
@@Seegalgalguntijak Good boots are Red Wings, you're gonna be shit out of luck if you want a pair of those for $100. More like $200. Red Wings will last you 10 years, even if you beat the shit out of them.
To be fair I’ve had 3 discovery’s & 3 range rovers covering over 1million miles and only had a compressor for air suspension go on a Range Rover and a warped cylinder head on a discovery (my own fault). Can agree with unreliability comments. 👍
Land rover appear to fit Ford engines in the US, we don't have that issue in Europe and have hardly any issues with land rover products. I have a discovery 4 and a range rover svr and I've had no issues with either.
@@gedd6750 Is Germany still in Europe? That is where I am from and Land Rover/ Range Rover as well as Jaguar have horrible reputations for reliability/durability. Consumer and after market warranty companies that have done surveys show them to be one of the lowest rated vehicle for reliability/durability sold in Europe. Practically the only ones claiming they are reliable are from the UK. A few reliable examples don't accurately reflect the ownership experiences of a overwhelming majority of owners.
I love the time you spend helping to teach people to be wiser. Normally it takes several decades, so hopefully it will be a little bit quicker now for those that have the good sense to pay attention to what you are saying. Live long and prosper buddy.
I had a very similar issue to the flapping cover but instead it was a loose exhaust pipe holder which was repaired for no charge by my mechanic. I was very relieved because the sound made me think it was something major that was wrong. It always pays to find an honest mechanic. He is actually in the process of writing a book which focuses on the so many relationships that they have created with customers by being honest and fair priced. They actually remind me of you!
I have a diesel Renault which went through 3 different mechanics, INCLUDING a Renault dealer, and they could t find what was wrong with it (it had a turbo mass error). In the end, it was just a cable which was a little bit too bent and was giving wrong readings to the engine CPU!!
When I took my car in for an alignment, I asked them to check on a chirping sound in the area of the serpentine belt. Oh boy, going to need an idler pulley or the tensioner as well. Nope just the belt. I checked for belts, usually $15 to $40, but after watching this episode, I will go with the $84 OEM- equivalent belt they recommended. With a half hour of labor, it will come to be $140, but the peace of mind is invaluable.
There are certain parts that are okay to buy aftermarket (like serpentine belts), but some parts really need to be OEM. Electrical components are one type of part where you want to go OEM if at all possible.
ISN'T there a famous Australian quote....... " If you want to drive into the "bush" , take a Land Rover, if you want to come out again ....... Take a TOYOTA 😂😂😂😂😂
Wizard, you are a true mechanic...... when you talk about verify, you’re talking about troubleshooting. Something that is lost in many shops under pressure to get cars in and out. I just want to thank you for that. I live in Cleveland, Ohio. If you were just half way closer to me I'd drive out to you for all my service that I can't do.
This is exactly what happened to me, i had done break job on my car rotors and pads, later down the road i had to have my transmission rebuilt and when i got the car back, every time i would come to a stop or accelerate id her a clunk in the front driver's area. At first i panicked but then after really accessing everything i decided to go back after 1 year or so of the break work axle nut was ever so slightly loose. Torqued it to specs and i was a happy camper. Thank you for all your wizdom wizard!!!!!🙏🙏
The last really cheap major repair I did was on a 2011 Mitsubishi Outlander Sport with the CVT transmission. I bought it from one of my customers that insisted that the transmission was bad. The truck ran and drove but quickly went into limp mode. I put the truck on the lift and removed the transmission pan and the very small filter which was completely plugged with metal shavings on the bottom. Just for fun I ordered a new filter and picked up the correct CVT fluid and put it in the next day. I reused the transmission pan gasket which was in good shape because I never thought that this would actually work at least not permanently. To my very surprised the transmission worked flawlessly and the truck drove excellent. After further reading I have seen many other instances where CVT transmissions seem to have complete failure but really just need the filter changed.
Good advice all around Wizard! I once changed out all 4 wheel bearings on a car when it was a flat spot on 1 tire because the POS sat too long without movement!
S V in my opinion, an unreliable but fun car is better that a boring and reliable car. As long as you can work on said crappy car. The Datsun cube’s automatic transmission is well known (in my area of North Dakota) for slipping. So you’ve got a boring and unreliable car.
@@binnydinney9739 Not a fan of the Cube either, but I respect that it was designed for a role and does it well. BTW, I prefer to have a car that is both reliable AND fun.
@@binnydinney9739 Couldn't agree more. I'm a Toyota dealer mechanic but i owned nothing but BMWs and VWs. They're not as reliable as a Toyota but the ones i owned rarely gave me down time and usually had minor faults that can be easily sorted out by someone who's mechanically inclined like i am. Only "reliable" car brand i owned was Honda (probably the only car company that has a good fun to reliable ratio) but i lost appeal to their lineup after the early 2000s.
Land Rover part number is LR049972. Ford part is CB5Z-9E882A, same part. This is a common issue with the LR/Ford 2.0L Turbo. The dealership will tell you they need to replace the entire turbo for $5,000, meanwhile the part is $80 and takes an hour to replace with removing a few bolts no lift or special tools required. Replaced this a year ago and added 20K miles, turbo running great. Good luck!
There's a saying in Spanish that I learned growing up "los baratos salen caros" the cheap comes out expensive. Car parts and repairs are no exception to this! I'm fluent in Spanish in case you didn't know!
This exact problem can also be caused by a simple split hose to the control valve. I know someone who had this and had a new turbo fitted before the shop found the real cause! That was an interesting conversation at the shop with the customer!
FOR ANYONE LOOKING FOR THE PART- FORD PART# is CB5Z-9E882-A or Land-Rover (LR049972) (same part, $50 more!) Thanks Wizard! Hope this actually worked long term!
@@RolandArias No prob! Worked on my Disco, hope it works for you too! Bitch to replace it at the top the engine but $80 beats the $3,000 Land Rover dealership quoted me the cheats hahaha
Great advice Wizard.I always suggest at least upper mid grade parts not from china if at all possible,but as you said and my old time mentor said if the customer knows the pitfalls and still wants to risk it do it.His name was Robert Short legendary around these parts,may he Rest in Peace.
Very impressive video. I have a 2016 Discovery that the auto stop/start has quit on. It would almost be worth driving from Fort Worth to have you look at it.
Check your battery. Land Rover dealership replaced my battery with wrong lower CCA and start/stop also quit working. I couldn’t go to dealership over and over again (we bought the car brand new), so I just forgot about it. 3 years into I replaced the battery with a correct CCA AGM one and it immediately fixed the problem
Fellow Ecoboost owner here (F150) and on the trucks its normally the BOV (boost pressure valve) that is installed into the CAC. Same deal but much easier to get at. $58 for the F150 version and about 10 minutes of work to replace. Ford should have spent 12 cents more for a stronger gasket for the valve because the original ones are known to tear from heavy throttle events. Apparently the 4 bangers have theirs in a different spot but same dumb issue. And yes cheap ones are bad juju...you are a lucky man because this customer has your ear outside of business hours! Of course considering her back up car is a Merc not feeling too bad for her. Just glad you were able to fix it fast and cheap vs normal Rover repair bills. BTW props on the Donkey Kong shirt!! Also hopefully she has not noticed the mouse chomped hood insulator.
Haha... oh how I love that Mrs. Wizard keeps picking on the Cube. Well at least it ended up being a small thing. I can image how frustrated someone would feel if they paid thousands for a complete turbo system replacement only to find out it did nothing. Much like fixing network issues in my line of work, "verifying" is critically important before _acting_ on the issue.
From the description at first, I would've thought linkage, but not hearing the actual noise & conditions make it a bit difficult to dx. Love your videos!
Been down this rabbit hole with my old 1992 Lexus SC300, it was my semi-daily driver/road trip car for 7-8 years until I sold it a couple years ago. Started having an intermittent problem where it would just crank, crank, crank, not start. Cycle it a couple times, then it would fire. Finally got bad enough to where it finally didn't start. Towed to my good local mechanic. Of course when it got there it fired right up no problem. I was kind of fixated that the problem was this module that controls the fuel pump, only place I could find it was for $400 at the dealer or $30 on Ebay. Of course I was trouble-shooting over the Lexus forum, they said when that module goes bad it can be intermittent. Bought the $30 part, had the mechanic install it(it was easy to access), told them to go drive it around a bit. They did, put 10 miles on the car for it to get hot, tried restarting at their shop and it finally did the same thing it was doing to me. They finally narrowed it down to having a bad fuel pump, charged me $400 or $500 and sent me on my way after my car had been sitting at their back lot for a week waiting on the magical $30 ebay part and them driving it around trying to replicate the problem. Felt really stupid because I forgot to tell them I ran the car out of gas(yeah dumb I know) 8 or 9 months prior, then started having the issue a few months later.
one of your funniest. I was taught a saying which is, 'the most expensive may not be the best, but the cheapest will always be the worst'. It has stood me well over the years.
It's hard to go to a shop anymore. We had a tractor that the transmission would not go into gear. Had to do a field call to get them to work on it. Three trips, and two computer modules later, the problem wasn't fixed. Modules were $1100 a piece, plus a shop rate of $140 plus mileage for three trips, and it didn't even work. After having it trailered in and doing diagnostic checks, it was found to be a broken wire... The second tech, (first one didn't touch it again) said it was simple to test...
This is why I like Car Wizard and Rainman Ray - both spend as much (or more) time diagnosing issues, than it takes to fix them many times. No BS "parts cannons" and no fleecing customers. If we all had guys like these as our local mechanics, it would be a very good thing !
Thank you for describing how people think you can diagnose a car sight unseen over the phone with a vague description or even in person with the car somewhere else. I hate this because they think you should have a fast, definite answer with the exact price or you don't know what you're talking about
So true about doing estimates over the phone. I work at a shipping business where there are always calling wanting to know what it will cost to ship a package somewhere. I love telling them that I have no idea without having the package in my hands. Dipwads!!
I diagnosed one of these on an old saab by removing the vacuum lines from the solenoid and plugging them with bolts. Only needed about 100 feet of driving to figure out if you were right. Had the same symptoms, no boost. I do not recommend diagnosing a modern car this way because you can overboost, but on a $1000 beater commute car it was getting junked anyway if it needed a turbo.
"What was your cheapest, major repair on a car?" Replacing gaskets or O-rings. Buying a complete engine gasket kit can often be cheaper than the price of an alternator or starter. A starter or alternator can often be swapped out in less than an hour too. Doing an engine out gasket job is usually a 2 day grunge fest for most DIY guys. One day to get it all out and apart. The next day to torque it back together and wrestle it back in. VT247
I did the same thing with the cam sensor on my 350Z. I bought a cheaper Chinese cam sensor and it failed in the middle of nowhere, although I did manage to limp home. I spent several hundred dollars on the OEM Nissan cam sensor and it's been perfect ever since
I've been burned by being cheap. When I was rebuilding my E36 BMW, I went with a cheap off-brand coolant temperature sensor thinking I'd save a buck over the $50 one from one of the OEMs. It boiled the coolant on the first drive. Replaced with a genuine BMW part (at $130...) and the problem immediately went away. Goes to show you that you shouldn't ever cheap out, especially on a European car, even if it's old..!
After watching PFI Speed tuning customers cars on the dyno and seeing what they had to do to sort issues with getting the power numbers to closely match the setup on the car and the data on the connected laptop, this was exactly what the problem was on a few different cars that they were tuning. When you said the turbo was ok and there was no boost leaks, I thought "would it be a boost controller solenoid?" Then you revealed that it was the solenoid and was like "yes, I got it right ".😃 Then you were talking about the noise in the front of the car and was thinking that sounds like an inner fender liner coming loose and flapping on something and you showed the piece that was flapping in the wheel arch and I was like "yep, there it is. 2 out of 2! Yeah!😎👍
shotgunning seems to be how main dealers trouble shoot, and at customers expense every step of the way. A good independent garage is always a better bet!
the independent shop in town didn't even know how to properly coolant flush a Subaru and made my car overheat. Then when I had to get a new car, they gave me a quote for the entire suspension to be replaced. Did it myself and only 3 parts had to be replaced. Honestly hate people nowadays, now I deal with the trouble of fixing the car myself even if it means buying expensive tools for one job.
@@DatMudkipify A Pep-Boys in Illinois tried to tell me the car I drove in not only couldn't be driven, but needed more work than the car was worth. After blowing off their nonsense, a complaint to Corporate resulted in an inspection by a ASE-certified and experienced ex-mechanic regional manager who confirmed over $1,000 worth of work was completely unneeded, and comped me a $250 dollar gift card for the hassles.
Doing better than my International dealer, before I started the truck had a turbo failure and filled the charge air cooler with oil. Dealer replaced turbo and off it went. I get there a year later and same thing, so we send it back for warranty work, they replace the turbo again. I asked why it failed, they didn’t investigate. Turns out the oil feed was restricted so it wasn’t getting enough oil.
I had a similar problem with a Vauxhall Corsa fitted with a Fiat 1.3 multijet Diesel engine. I had to change the turbo because it was leaking oil badly but it didn't cure the lack of boost. I determined that the wastegate was working fine by bypassing the turbo boost controller. However changing that part didn't fix it, it turned out to be a water damaged ECU caused by bad car design. The owner decided to trade it in on a different car as the cost of fixing the ECU was more than the car would have been worth. You win some, you lose some!
Mr. Reed! Prepare to fire the forward Parts Cannons! Travis, reduce to Cube Speed!-- Capt. Archer, the missing 'Enterprise' episode. Seriously, Mr. CW is right. Diagnose THEN fix. And while some shops give free estimates on brakes or exhaust work, and some even a little more, if you gotta plug into it to figure it out, you're paying for diagnostic work. And yes, cheap parts abound these days (not just Dorman). Sometimes a little extra quality doesn't cost a whole lot more for a solid repair. Ms. CW even got in the act, by knowing the car WAS accelerating, but at Cube Speed the 2nd time also, so she didn't panic and think her Range Rover was heading for the crusher, but that something had failed again. Great job of climbing out of the Rabbit Hole on that flapping panel also. My cheapest fix (not recommended)...patching a pinhole leak in a high-pressure fuel line in the engine compartment on an old car with self-sealing silicone tape! $8 versus a heck of a lot more for the line and labor. Never leaked again. Car never caught fire. Win-Win!
I had one go wrong, I just removed the crimped sleeve, cleaned and deburred the shaft and reassembled it and it worked fine. Ths most difficult part was reapplying the crimp. No parts required, about 1 hours labor.
I've ran into this before. I think on an Acura if I remember right. i was in the process of pulling the turbo to check it out and when i went to pull the air box and intake tube, it revealed a small crack in the intake tube you couldn't see when i was assembled. I think the part was $30... Big relief
An old OEM part fails in a particular mode. Another newly installed non OEM part shortly fails in the same mode (?). A third OEM part appears to be working at the moment. Time for an autopsy of the two failed parts ?
I had a TIPM failure in my Chrysler, and the dealership first wanted to reprogram my key (engine immobilizer), I laughed and said 'okay' because I knew it wasn't a security system issue. They then wanted to replace fuel injectors, coils, and the fuel rail. I then ignored them and just took it to a local shop.
I would actually say you just made a good case for exactly when cheap Chinesium parts ARE appropriate. To test the solution before loading up the "parts cannon". I have used cheap vanos solenoids or switches or relays as a temporary repair until BMW one comes in more than once. I swap in the "good stuff" when it arrives and clean up the junk parts for next time one of my babies needs a quick bandaid. LOL
Once the opposite of what the Wizard said about owners and mechanics towards the end of the video happened to me.. I had a failing alternator on a Ford. I was literally screaming. I identified the bad bearing on the alternator myself but didn't want to replace it myself as it was nearly Christmas and I just did not have the time. Dropped off the car and parts as agreed to the mechanic and got a call from the mechanics the next morning him saying he didn't think I needed a new alternator. I told him to replace it anyway, which he did. I asked for the old part back when the job was done and sure enough the bearing on the old alternator was toast, and the car was back to being quiet. It was almost like the mechanic didn't want the work, which is fine, but giving bad advice like that is not cool.
Thanks for this video!! I’m having soo many problems with my crappy 2016 discovery sport. Could you please do a video on checking and or changing the trans fluid?? No one on RU-vid has one.
