NEVER buy a car with these issues! The CAR WIZARD shares what to lookout for when buying a used car 

One trick an old mechanic taught me: start the car and remove the cap where you pour the oil in. Then, put your hand over the opening. In a new car, you will feel no air puffing out. The worse the engine, you will feel light puffs of air in time with the combustion. A dying engine will actually have oil spitting out with the strong puffs of air. Hope this helps someone.

Don't tell a seller you have cash in your pocket. Scams posing as cars for sale to rob the shopper upon arrival

You need to look under the car and make sure the frame and under carriage isn't rusted away. Lots of gorgeous looking cars are absolutely totaled underneath.

Being upfront with the issues on a car pretty much made people wanna buy my car more lol. Honesty really pays off.

Mrs. Wizard should be infront of the camera more! Not many people are able to speak that freely on RU-vid. She's doing a good job

I bought a car really cheap BECAUSE the seller was selling it because the brakes did not work. I checked and the master cylinder was empty I made a very lowball offer he accepted. I came back with a friend to pick up the car so I could drive it home and brought brake fluid. Brakes worked fine on the way home! Tripled my investment.

If everyone in the US was as honest and hardworking as these people, America would be great again!

If i turned up at a Car for sale and it doesn't start i would simply walk away.

Moral of the story: Hoovie violated every one of the warnings.

Also, make sure the vehicle VIN matches the VIN on the title.

The title stuff is so, so important. I'm astounded at the number of "no title" ads on Facebook marketplace.

You missed out some major things wizard. Panel gaps, mismatched paint, knocking on body parts to check for filler, checking if the window glass is matching and consistent, checking for overspray, opening the trunk and lifting the carpet... All these things can indicate if a car was in an accident and potentially structurally compromised

"I cant afford this anymore and I got something new"

Me: "the engine is running a bit rough." Seller: "oh that's a cheap fix it just needs some new spark plugs." If someone ever tells you something is a "cheap fix," ask yourself: then why haven't they fixed it? My rule of thumb is "don't buy trouble."

This dude knows cars! One of the best car channels on youtube! I use a program on my laptop ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-3LUayHH1yZA.html to manage the maintenance and keep a detailed vehicle maintenance log for all my vehicles. When I am buying a used car I love it if the owner can provide that type of information so that I know the vehicle was properly maintained. I also check the brake pedal. If the pedal shows little wear even if the vehicle has high mileage I know most of the miles are highway driving which is much easier on a vehcile.

Another tip is to take the oil cap off and put your hand over it. Easy way to find excess blowby. Old mercedes diesels like a 300D would even float the oil cap above the engine if the motor was worn out.

“My mechanic said” guys are the worst. Or “ten minute fix” but they are “so busy” they can’t get to it. Then goes on to say how they can meet anytime. Last but not least is the old “check engine light is on needs an O2 sensor”.

Wizard needs to buy a fubar XJS to just have as a shop ornament. Seeing one in the background is just clickbait for me

The best advice I ever got, if someone is Selling a car, 90% of the time it’s because something is wrong with it and they’re tired of fixing it. The best used car to buy is from someone who doesn’t want to sell their car. Usually such a car is well-maintained, and you have to convince the person to give it up, because they know it’s good also

Back in the days when cars were fun to fix, my dad used to say: you can fix every thing but body, so make sure that the body is in good condition when buying a used car.

When the wizard opened up that audi hoood... bad memories suddenly rushed into my mind... audi...never again...

Another issue that you must check. Make sure the Airbag light comes on when you start the car, and then goes off. Airbags are very expensive to replace, and a lot of cars that have been in an accident and are fixed, the seller does not want to spend the thousands of dollars to replace the airbag, and disconnects the airbag light instead. People have died because of this, where they get into an accident and the airbag is missing. This is far more common than people realize.

More points: -When you come to see the car, look if the engine is already warmed up, some guy may be trying to hide cold start issues. -A freshly detailed engine bay could try to hide a small leak, It all looks clean but a few days later you get a small puddle on your driveway. -Beware of old R12 AC systems, especially in Europe where I live. It may "just need a recharge" but no shop will want to touch it unless they convert it to R134A, big money trap there. -If it is suspiciously cheap, it may be suspicious.

Shipping a classic car to Australia can be a nightmare if the authorities in customs determine the vehicle had any parts that contained asbestos during it's life. Plenty of stories of cars sitting for months at port while the car is stripped down to the frame as it undergoes a thorough examination. Destructive testing can also be used before the car is given the okay to enter the country.

Here is a good tip! : Check the checking of bulbs before starting the engine. All of the bulbs will flash before starting up the car to check the bulbs themselves. Some people take the bulbs off and mislead the customers to thinking the car does not have that specific problem.

A few more tips: 1. Tell the seller you want to inspect the engine Cold (feel the radiator hose). Helps discover if it has a cold start issue, and some problems disappear once the engine warms up. 2. Before even going to see the car ask who's name the title is in. If its an open title or some "friend, etc" the seller is probably a car flipper. Also make sure the title isn't "Salvage or Reconstructed" which will be a BIG problem when you title it. 3. Beware if the engine and undercarriage look super clean (another car flipper tactic). Better to be a little dirty. Easier to spot leaks. 4. Scan the car an make sure none of the I/M Monitors show "Inc" (incomplete). That means the codes were erased so the check engine light is off (but it will come on again). 5. Make sure the VIN on the car matches the title, and carefully check all info on the title. 6. If the inspection expires in a month or two there is a good chance they are selling it cause it needs repairs to pass. 7. Only exchange money at the title office. 8. Never look at a car at night or in the rain.

Translation: "Ran when parked" means "boat anchor".

As someone whom has bought a used car or two thru the years I generally follow as many of the excellent suggestions that you put forth in your video concerning checking out a used vehicle. I bought a used 2009 Nissan Frontier basic King Cab truck this past May with 165K miles I thoroughly inspected for all the red flags you put forth in your video underhood and underneath and it all looked good on this vehicle. Being near the part of the year when it was long daylight I overlooked to check the lighting systems. This fall I discovered that I have no low beam headlights; after inspection, the body control module has been diagnosed as being bad sending no output signal to the underhood relay box. Lesson learned, $1540 for a new BCM; vehicle was priced for quick sale at $5500 for this reason.

Look out for buying a used Cadillac from a guy named Heavy D. AC doesn’t work, just needs a can of Freon. Look out for mismatched tires, milk shake oil dip stick, dirty, rusty, burnt transmission oil on trans dip stick. Are there aftermarket electronics done by bubbas.

Always keep a copy of the advert. Photograph the car before you take it away from a dealer. Only view it at the owners home if not a dealer. Bit dodgy meeting up half way. Always have a friend who can be more critical or give you a lift back so as not to commit having bus, taxi, trained or flown there.

When checking oil make sure its fairly clean no sludge as well as it not looking like chocolate milk

The biggest thing to do is to make sure you have it inspected by your trusted mechanic.. If someone has a problem with you taking it to a shop before you buy pace it for the next sucker.. People never buy without going to your shop and if the owner says no say goodbuy have a nice day.. Never buy without a inspection...

You also have to watch out for sellers that lie about Facebook not letting them put the real price on the ad to lure people in

It costs a bit, but if you have a good mechanic and can convince the seller to let you have the car checked out, they can catch more than the casual car buyer.

The last car I bought had the title. But it had 2 titles. The guy had thought he lost the title. Applied for a new one and gave me the "lost" one. Went to register it and the title was no good. I was pissed. Luckily it was an honest mistake and he found and brought me the good title to me at the DOL.

Good advice. I wouldn't even bother asking a seller what was wrong if the oil was low, the coolant reservoir was dirty or had oil or sludge in it or smelled bad. Just walk away. Plenty more cars out there.

Mr. and Mrs. Wizard: So appreciated this particular video. Am an old guy, retired builder and carpenter. After over 40 years as a builder, I joke that I know everything their is to know about houses (not really true). But I admit I don't know much of anything when it comes to buying a quality used that doesn't surprise me with major hidden defects after I get it home, and I think I must have bought 50 or more, over my lifetime, between myself, my kids, my former business. At the moment I'm looking to replace my 1993 Toyota T-100 with another older model Tundra. My budget is 10k tops. Most all of what I can find for sale, be it on autotrader or wherever, are from used car dealers. I've not found many if any that are completely honest about what they're selling. Any advice or tips from anyone or where to look, would be much appreciated. Car Wizard, I know what you mean about titles-in-hand, as they say. I once bought and paid for a used car at a very reputable dealer, on a promise that they were getting the title soon. I returned the car for a full refund after two weeks and no title yet. Thanks again for this video!

In answer to the question... When looking for a second vehicle, I checked this one dealership who had a 2008 Mazda CX-7 with relatively low mileage (118,000km), advertised as rust-free (a bold claim in Ontario, Canada). I called ahead (purposely) and they were there with the keys and were all too happy to start rambling off facts and numbers that would only impress someone that didn't know much about cars. I cut them short and said "give me about 20 minutes to go check things out" - they thought I meant a test drive, and I said "No - if I like what I see, _then_ we'll talk test drive." So I got out to check it out, pop the hood, and put my hand above the engine - it's warm. First bad sign. This is why I call ahead - if they go out and "warm it up" before I get there, I know they might be trying to hide an engine that idles bad or doesn't start easily because there's no reason to do that on a healthy engine. So check around the engine - I see the valve cover leaking. Check under the car - lots and lots of wet greasy areas. Check the reservoir - fluid is a weird translucent yellowy-green. This was the turbo version of the engine, so I suspect it was already wearing and starting to have a head gasket issue. Checked between the door frame, under the doors, in the wheel wells, underneath - rust was starting everywhere, but in places that you couldn't see from topside. Saw no rubber plugs in the door frames that would have indicated previous owners had it oil sprayed during it's life. So that was all I needed to see - engine on it's way to the grave, cancerous rust in the wrong places. Walked back in, handed them the keys and said "not interested." But... all that stuff would go easily unnoticed if someone didn't know what to look for.

I always watch these at 1.5x speed. when Mrs. Wizard is on I have to go back to normal.

Another trick to check temps on modern cars without those gauges is a bluetooth obd2 adapter and your phone. You'll have to research the appropriate temps beforehand though.

Take a magnet with you and put it up against the parts of the bodywork that are most likely to be hit in accidents. Magnet doesn't stick= panel bogged and repainted.

I’ll tell you another thing that I learned about switching from a professional mechanic to a body man. Sunroofs may function and they may look great on the outside but if somebody hasn’t taken the time to clean the drains, wait till the rains come! Then you’re going to see something really fantastic inside of what should be a closed space. It’s easily done by yourself in most cases. But that light mold smell up near the headliner. I always used to say “why would somebody cut a hole in a perfectly good roof?”. But they do in cars with sunroofs I would just completely steer away from if you don’t want to eventually have a problem with it. But then again I love them in another aspect because they damn sure flow a lot of money into the body shop!

I had one of two exhaust pipes plugged up and two muffler shops were stumped. I took the 53 Caddy back to my mechanic who rebuilt the engine and he found a mouse nest in the one tail pipe! Cars that sit do get critters in them.

My 02’ 525i sport. The transmission liked to go into failsafe mode but you Could get it out by shifting to neutral and starting. I bought the car any way and ended Up fixing it by checking the transmission position switch connector. It is a black connector with male and female pins that can rotate if it comes loose which will send incorrect signals between computer and trans. The bmw was great even after I rebuilt it from a crash, so I learned everything about the e39! Would consider an m5 because of it. Every car has a hidden story. How much of the book can you speed read? You’ll never know everything. Sometimes a bit of smoke off a valve cover is normal for some cars esp. European. I have the SL500 now and it’s a much faster and better car, just had it serviced for 280$ they corrected my abc suspension, changed my oil, filters etc. and did a general reset of the computer. I hope it becomes a collectible one day. I’ll never get rid of it

It's ALWAYS easier and often cheaper by far to walk away than to assume you can cheaply fix things - UNLESS you're an experienced mechanic!!

You should also tell the seller that you want the engine to be cold when you arrive so that you can see how it starts cold. He could be having problems starting the engine cold that go away when it is warm.

One time I wanted to by a 2000 or 2001 Volvo S70. Had about 166,000 miles and seemed to be in a decent shape. Contacted the seller, set up a test drive. They turned out to be some shop doing general car repair. Told me they've fixed a few things here and there on the Volvo and now are selling it for some old lady. The price was $1,200. Claimed nothing is really wrong with it. Well, that's interesting I thought. On the drive I noticed a screeching and grinding noise coming from the front end while turning right. The guy immediately jumped in with "don't worry this noise will go away the more you drive it. We didn't find anything wrong with it." Well to me, if a car makes any unusual noise like this, there's definitely a problem, right? So I asked if I could take to my mechanic to check it out which is btw a reputable Volvo shop just a couple of miles from these guys' shop. The guy: "No we don't allow that. I had a friend selling his car and they took to a mechanic who dropped it from their lift and the car was totalled. We're sorry we can't let you take it for a prepurchase inspection." "Have a good day" I said. Later, my quick Google search showed that it could be an issue with the subframe which could be a $2,500 fix.

When I was a young punk and didn't know a whole lot about buying cars.. I test drove a used car with a broken brake line.. it was a 2003 mustang.. it was hard to stop.. I didnt know about the broken brake line... the used car dealer didnt tell me anything about it, the dealer was off a highway so I took it on the highway driving fast.. I look down to check my speed and there is a red brake light.. I'm having trouble stopping so I drive slow back to the dealership.. I call him out on it and he fixed it.. I bought it like a young dumb kid wanting a fun hot rod.. it had an oil leak, coolant leak.. neither of which I knew about til after I had bought it.. the car was a total POS.. I learned alot from that experience.. I've bought a lot of cars since and I've done a great job on what to look for

SOLD AS IS *UNTESTED* Ebay speak for "we tested it and it did not work."

The sunroof, windows and mirrors can be as simple as a fuse and easy to check yourself if they let you take the car for 30 min. If it turns out to be a fuse treat it the same as a broken regulator to bid the price down to help pay for whatever problem they're probably not telling you about.

Craigslist is a cesspool when it comes to used cars.

This is a valuable episode that is a real keeper. Thanks Car and Mrs Wizard.

Note on checking the reservoirs Make sure that they have not just been emptied out and topped off with new fluid. Especially the coolant one and that the line hasn't been plugged so the muck coming out of the engine doesn't mix and spoil the illusion.

In NH you don’t need a title for a 99 or older. Just do a simple online Vin check to make sure it hasn’t been reported as stolen, get a vin verification from a garage or police officer, or you can use a previous NH regestration from the seller, and you can regester it

Everytime I see Audi’s like that now I think “engine out, engine out, engine out”

I love the videos where you both are involved it's way cooler. you forgot one thing RUST... look under the car if you see rust more then a patina of it then run rocker panels, frame strut mounts. if its freshly painted in areas beware. push comes to shove take it to a shop during test drive.

soooooooooooooooooooooooo right about blend door issues and hvac routing servos being the ultimate p.i.t.a.

Another point to check, with the heat and A/C, make sure it is blowing proper temperature out of ALL the vents! My previous car in the winter, would blow hot air out of all vents, except for the far left driver vent. It blew nice cold air! I closed that vent and all was ok. I know what the problem was, but will not spoil it if Wizard runs into the issue for a future video....

Great point about the engine oil.

When I was 18 I bought a 1991 YJ Wrangler 2.5L 4-cyl, 5-speed. The seller was a tenant of a friend. Jeep looked mint, but the seller didn't want me to drive it, he drove and I was the passenger. After buying it I found the transmission synchros were crap, AX-5 would grind gears (something I now know isn't uncommon). Bought the Jeep for $5,500, sold for $4,500 on ebay motors (disclosing transmission issue) back in 2002(?).

I’m ready for a run of videos where the wizard goes with fans to buy a used car.

Mrs. Wizard should get an academy award. This actress is amazing.

i usually go to dealers by law in Missouri they usually have it inspected but that's not 100%. i trust no one. my friend bought car on Facebook 1500$ a mitsubishi outlander wound up paying more get worked on. and i research parts prices on vehicles ask my mechanic whats it like get it worked on don't be like hoovie he got money most people don't

17:43 Yes Wizard I agree with you. You want to make sure a car’s background is clean as in clean title, no major wreck, has seevice record, etc before you inspect the mechanical and physical condition of a car. And if I’m looking at a car the first thing I ask to see is the title and verify the vins and seller’s ID.

16:00 when the service record starts looking like a wedding cake... it means there's been a lot more done than regular maintenance.

This video really helped me out. Went and got a 2002 Chrysler Sebring convertible. Less than 38,000 miles. However, it has been sitting for years. Only thing done to it was start it up once every other week and replaced 2 batteries. Yes, it sat that long. Going into this, I knew I was going to buy four brand new tires as I kind of figured the other ones would be dry rotted. Even though it was stored inside, 20 year old tires are not going to be any good. Everything checked out with the liquids, no rust issues, everything worked mechanically. The convertible top was perfect, almost in brand new shape. The test drive was great. Steering tight, brakes are great, and wheels are tight as well. Before anybody comments, I know the 2.7 L V6 is not the greatest engine. I will get the mileage out of it that I can and get a 2.7 L Jasper rebuild when this one dies. The glue around the rear window was perfect. So besides giving this thing a major look over for any other problem that I could not identify, four brand new tires, a couple of hydraulics for the trunk lid, and a new rear antenna, I think I did pretty good for what I paid for it. I am not saying what I paid for it because it was a heck of a deal since everything checked out. Way below market value. Again, thank you Car Wizard!!!!

I've said this before, I'll say it again.... I once bought a motorcycle without the title being ready, the friend of a friend said he'd get it to me later. He did, so it worked out in the end, but it took a couple of months with this bike sitting in my garage, that I couldn't do anything with. Listen to the Wizard! No title, no deal.

Yes! I love the Starion and Conquest TSI! Euro-Asian Bob has good taste! :) You must live in a better place than I do, with no mention of rust in this video!

The best piece of advice that trumps all, no title in hand right now no deal. Glad you mentioned that.

I would like to take Mrs Wizard with me when I’m buying a used car! She is amazing 😻!

ALWAYS CHECK THE ATF DIPSTICK if the vehicle has one! If the fluid is dark or smells burnt walk away from the car. Transmission is almost toast and if you change the fluid it could start slipping.

I would check the wheels see if they're matching rims and I would check the tire condition because buying new tires can be expensive as well, tread wear can also show you signs of misalignment and lose tire rods

That is one of the best advise ever from the CarWizard, keep it up, you are honest in a land full of lairs

i bought a ih 9300 road tractor, guy didnt want me to drive it over 40 mph. Well i did and noticed upper gears in the 15 speed roadranger were grinding. Well figured out it had overdrive so shifted down to right first then straight forward. Well he never knew that and thought the transmission was junked. Bought it really cheap drove it 5 years and sold it for $15,00£ more than i paid for it

Wizard is for the people!

I bought a 2007 Mitsubishi Eclipse with a check Engine light and obvious front-end damage (missing fog-lamps, missing emblem, missing undercarriage plastic) Don't be me.

Ngl, ive personally gotten lucky with my last purchase, found a manual 1990 Plymouth Sundance that was parked for 3 years and didnt currently run and all it luckly was was just a fuel pump and a ignition switch but we quickly found out its catalytic converter was blown, but for a $500 car and only $160 in parts it really wasnt a bad purchase, also it had ac still which was an amazing surprise

To answer the question at the end: I was looking at a Subaru Legacy (I think an '09 or so) online. Called the dealership, went there. I asked for the Carfax. It had /several/ owners and an accident or two. I looked at the car... Rust on the bottoms of the doors and /coating/ the brake disks - keep in mind, this is in Tennessee. I own a car notorious for rusting if in the rust belt and it had nowhere near that amount. I walked away. Friend who was with me was confused on why I didn't buy it, and I explained it to him. I didn't even get to where I looked at the engine or the interior - just that amount of rust killed the deal for me.

They don't call you "The Car Wizard" for nothing, I wish every wrench was as thoughtful as you.

I bought a too cheap car from a dodgy owner with a weird story about selling the car late at night in the rain after only being able to drive it a few miles. Turned out to be good. Only a few minor things needed. Looking back though I took a big risk 😅

Thank you Mr. and Mrs. Wizard for taking your time and trouble to give us these awesome tips.

Oh man, about 20 years ago I owned the Mitsubishi counterpart of that Conquest, a Starion in that same "pull over this idiot teenager red". What a car. A big 4 cylinder with a ridiculous turbo, rwd, stick shift and raging hormones. Back then, this was just an old Japanese car that looked like a doorstop and very few people even heard of. Not sure how I talked my folks into letting me buy it. Not sure how I didn't wreck it for a couple years. It finally shit its final bed in 05 I think? Maybe 04? I done blew it up, naturally. Needed much engine work that I just couldn't afford. Sold it to my buddy Dan who had a white Conquest. That crazy bastard still has both, still only one that works. The more things change, the more they stay the same, etc. So on and so forth. Now get off my lawn what with your hondas and wrexes. *shakes fist at sky*

I bought a 69 Newport, which in NY is titled through its registration, and fifteen years before I bought it, someone had filled out a "transfer registration" form instead of a "transfer license plates" form at DMV, so the proof of ownership of that Chrysler was the registration to a 1994 Chevy suburban. Six DMV visits to fix it.

If you need to do the car sale through the bank to pay off your loan thats fine!!! BUT IM ONLY GIVING MY CASH TO THE BANK!!!!

Good idea to check the codes before a car goes out of warranty.

Wizard would make more money charging Hoovie "Hoovie Hooptie" storage fees.

Inspecting the coolant is spot-on advice. Bought a car a while ago, then realized that the coolant was all brown and foamy but not oily. Changed the coolant. A lot later i realized that my cooler was leaking just a little bit. Obviously someone just put some stop-leak in it which was the brown, foamy stuff. Now i can get a new cooler or top it off every now and then.

"What car did you buy, or almost buy, that had hidden problems?" Pretty much ever one of the jalopies I've ever owned. There's always going to be something not 100% on each vehicle we get. Some items will always get fixed right away, no cutting corners. Brakes, engine, trans, tires, those parts get prompt attention. But a rear power window, heated seat switch, tore up interior, broken cup holder, or other minor inconveniences may wait a while. For instance, the ABS is out on 3 of the 4 vehicles we have right now. They all stop and the brakes work great. So doubt I'll be repairing any of them with that issue. It's just not that big a problem to spend all that time and money repairing something that doesn't bother me. The more vehicles you buy, the more things you start looking for. Usually start with, what all is wrong the car? Unless they list it in the ad to begin with, if you find 3 or more items they don't bother to mention, it's a good bet they are hiding more. Check to see if the vehicle is warmed up before starting it. There may be starting issues that don't occur when warm. Make sure it shifts through all the gears. No funny noises coming from the engine. Scan for codes and see if the system monitors are set to ready or if someone has recently reset all the fault codes. Let it get up to operating temp to make sure it doesn't overheat. Check the oil, transmission fluid, coolant and other fluids for leaks, bad odors or other signs of trouble. Check under the vehicle to see if anything is bent up or damaged. The car may look great up above, but underneath it may have been pulled out of ditch. The pull to the right while driving may never get fixed minus a frame pulling or subframe repair. Often if I'm serious about buying it, I'll ask we go to the DMV to have the title switched over. There are so many scams that people will try to pull, just try to stay ahead of the game. so you don't get burnt. VT247

Years ago actually read an ad "Runs good, won't start"!

Good video 👍🏼 Sending this to my friend who's always on Facebook looking for a "project car"

Agree completely with the title. No title, no sale. They will give a lot of excuses and tell you how it's no big deal, just go to the DMV and apply for a lost title. NO! YOU cannot do that because you do not own the car. Most states it doesn't matter if you have a bill of sale and gave the scammer money, the only one that can apply for a lost title is the rightful owner. You are not buying a car, you are buying a title to a car. If it was no big deal the scammer would go down and get the title himself because the car is worthless without it.

*Buys a car with none of those issues... car developes these issues in next 3 months.*

Had a TDI Jetta with sludge in coolant reservoir. It was engine oil cooler cracked, caused oil to leak into coolant. Transmission cooler also cracked a year later and coolant in ATF ruined transmission. My last VW, ever.

When i go used car shopping 1st thing i do is check the oil. If shes low its a no. Youd be shocked to find out how many used cars i came accross with low oil.

Or just remember to bring a list of the things to check to be reminded. I have made the mistake of forgetting to check everything and it really sucks got a suv that had no ac and I still ow 10k on it and I know better

For a out $15 I can get a cheap ELM327 OBDII reader on Amazon. Buy one...then download an app called car Scanner. Then Bring it with you and hook it up to the car being sold. Drive the car. If the owner recently cleared any codes and there is an issue with something continuing to trip codes, often times the cars computer will see pending it stored codes that you wouldn't see without looking at the OBDII app. The app can also see if the car is passing emissions via the Cat, O2 sensors etc. Also, they're just good to have in general! I have one hooked up to my Astro at all times...it's been a lifesaver!

So rust isn't an issue? Back where I live, corrosion damage would be on the top of the list for things to check.

I wish every auto mechanic was as badass as you.

The suspension is usually the worst maintained.

So glad You are doing a video on the red Starion/ Conquest ! I bought a 1986 Black Chrysler Conquest TSI R back in Los Angeles in 1995 ! Neat car !