Where I live majority of the trails were made by dirt bikers and slowly became confiscated by the city to turn them into non motorized areas for hikers/bikers. But during the winter it’s legal to go just about anywhere on a snowmobile. Real shame
Around my area there’s no public land and it’s all OHV parks except 2 multi use Forest service trails that are also not dedicated for bikes. It’s sad so many places don’t do single track but cater to giant SxS drivers but think dirt bikes cause trail damage lol. Crazy how varied it is in different parts of the country/ world
@@colbymills4006 usually how it goes. They'll scream from the roof tops that there's plenty of places to ride away from cities/houses then they'll move into said riding places and complain until they're shut down.
@@liamwilson1948 No, it cannot happen, period. No motorcycle has started a fire from the exhaust exiting from the bike, it's all such bs. People have to go out and purchase a $300 muffler just to satisfy some stupid forest rule.
How about suspension set up. Have you set the sag for the rear? I recently took a suspension set up class and it was life changing. I already knew that sag was normally set between 105-110mm. After asking about set up for hard enduro the instructor suggested 110-115mm because of the tendency to use our feet to paddle through sections. The extra sag allows you to get a flatter footing and have more confidence in those areas. It also helped me immensely with the harder rock sections uphill/downhill. Sitting a smidge lower in the back allowed me, with my style of riding, to float the front so much better over everything in my path and just crawl with little to no slippage in the rear.
Emperor Racing makes a robust aluminum skid plate and pipe guard, if you decide you want more protection. They even make a plastic slider you can install on the bottom to make it slip easier.
Id suggest drilling the mousse balls vs removing a couple of them to get a softer feel. If you remove them, it causes them to bunch up and create big gaps in the tire. Drilling them makes it softer and no gaps.
You need to go and have the bike re-flashed by the dealer, it should not load up like that. If you're planning on an ERM from TSP then just wait to do that, which would be the smart move.
I just bought a Shinko 216SX as well. Recently switched to 140/80 size tires. Was running a Kenda Gnarly 140/80 and it was very good. About as soft as IRC JX8. The Shinko is a little more gummy versus those according to my tester. Should be good for this fall when leaves are down and everything stays damp.
If you feel like the chassis is too stiff, i’ve seen the KTM factory enduro team remove the upper of the two bolts on the frame to cylinder head mount. Supposed to make it flex a little more.
Have seen lots of guys do it, slightly skeptical to try. Not because it won't work, but my buddy's chassis has flexed so much the old bolts won't even align anymore. Not sure if I want to alter the shape of my frame or not haha
Quick Tip: The kickstand bolt on the new gen KTM's always back out. I would put some red Loctite on the threads to prevent this as long as you don't plan on changing the kickstand. I lost the bolt on my very first ride.
Molecule skid plates made in Oregon, same materials, fits so much better. Uses oem mounts and the skid plates that use brackets already comes with tape installed You should reach out to them and try them
Personally for me I think it’s your tyre choice, any bike without Michelin medium tyre’s + mousse combo on just doesn’t seem to perform as well. You get a well bedded in mousse and that tyre is like a trials tyre on rocks and steep stuff but is also fantastic everywhere else too and also last ages! The more savage looking your tread pattern is or how tall the tread is doesn’t always mean the best. Hence why the top extreme/hard enduro riders in the world all use Michelin tyre’s
The new bike is turning out great. The first trail you rode to the lake is super gnarly. The last trail in this vid is also gnarly. I'm familiar with both. What a difference the gearing made. I'm heading to a race in Wyoming this weekend. Cheers
One thing that’s worked out good for me is safety wiring each pair of spokes together. Saves you from damage if one does break. I installed a tubeless valve stem in my rim to pop the bead. I ride in a lot of dust and sand so it keeps all of that out of the tire.
I have a 2023 gasgas ec250 that I found the same thing with gearing. I have found the best setup for me is a 12/49. For the flowing trail you can tap a gear high and lug through the tighter corners and if you want to get in the pipe just a slight clutch pop and it screams. Then for the slow techie stuff it lugs amazingly. This setup is what I have found to be my happy medium.
When you had to clear it out...I think the stock map is the "rich" map. If you get the switch, I think you can switch to the leaner map and avoid that... maybe? I dont know. I notice my 24 spooges a lot more than id expect it to
For anyone with one of these, you can change the oil without removing the skid plate by sliding a slightly creased piece of cardboard under the oil drain and using it as a spillway into your used oil pan. This is how i change mine on my '23 250 xc-w and it works great and saves the time that would be spent removing the skid plate every time.
Yo im central Wyoming based. I’m a new rider but would love to hit the trails with more experienced guys. Obviously up here winter is here most places if not on the way! But given the opportunity I’d love to drive couple hours north or meet in the middle and rip around!Igor not be something your into or may be but let me know! Could be a good time exploring and riding some trails!
The main thing non dirt bikers hate is the noise...electric bikes could save trail access but people won't buy them until it's too late. Just like you said in the video, when more hikers/non motorized users are on the trail, we get kicked off.
something i would recommend and we do is enlarge that hole you drilled in your rear big enough to install a cut out tube valve stem. makes it so you can still set the bead but also keeps the dust and water and dirt out and extends the life of your bibs/ mousse balls a lot
Check out slavens racing bike build 2024 300 he recaps the ecm to improve fuel mileage and help keep the bike from loading up awesome video can't wate to win the 200 and riding with you western guys!
Tip for mousse. If you have an old tube, cut the valve stem out and drill another hole so you can pop your bead with a regular valve and add lube through it without taking the tire on and off.
Ill never understand black rims on Enduro bikes, especially oem with their glossy coating. They look pike crap after 1-2 rides. Those urmosi wheels look cool, so hopefully they hold up to wear a little better than oem
its really nice to see your trail etiquette!! idk if how you ride is common elsewhere but around where I'm from the dirt bikers could learn a thing or two from ya
I love my 24 300xcw, 120 hours. Been on 12/48 gearing for most of those hours, been riding the east us hard-enduro series an the bike is awesome. Ive had suspension valvled an k-tech bladder on rear, this helped in the faster technical hill climbs. Bikes are a lil fat on bottom but not a huge issue, jus keep it clean or send your ecu to TSP. Fuel mileage increases considerably after they re-flash the ecu, runs lil cleaner, an runs better overall with even more bottom
@@tylerhall3854 good insight, thanks. So you just had them reflash it without getting a head or anything? Have had a lot of comments recommending the ERM and head, but it’s cheaper just to sent it out and have them flash it yeah?
@@KincadePavich depends on if ur the guy that wants tinker with engine or set it an forget it. I did the ERM and medium head. Rode the bike with jus the tune an no head for awhile, its considerably better. Ive never used the ERM to change running characteristics which is what youd get from a reflash, their tune is pretty well spot on. The medium comp head is noticeable but not like the tune. After further research i later ordered a high comp insert. Forget what u know about old school 2-t and heads, the high comp on this bike actually makes the engine more linear with a decent chunk of bottom. If u like the extra tuning an diagnostic capabilities go for the ERM if not jus have it flashed an see what u think. Last time i looked there was no savings to buying the complete kit with the head or splitting it up an buying head later outside of shipping. If u do get a head dont piss about with medium get the high comp its awesome for hard-enduro, super smooth an keeps pulling when it shouldn't its like cheating. Im not a pro or A rider, I ride B I've finishing in top 25% of my class
quick tip from a south african that rides alot in the dust!!! We instead of replacing the filter we just clean it in diezel and petrol or with filter cleaner and reoil it with filter oil after each ride... Your bike will never give you issues with not breathing well after that!!! just something we do here
He's switching to No Toil oil. It cannot be mixed with petroleum products, so need to start with a fresh new filter. He will clean and re-oil from here.
You should try the Shinko 505 hybrid cheater, the best ones ive tried so far, they do the job and last longer than the 525. I pair that with a Bridgestone M59 in the front... you cant go wrong with this combo!!
One more upgrade that is almost a must I would highly recommend you get a rekluse auto clutch for your bike they don’t rob any power but come in handy when in really rough conditions and eliminate almost all tire slip because you don’t have to clutch it all the time
Drill your second lock hole opposite the factory lock hole. You can also use a strap to cinch the first lock away from the rim so the bead can pull into the center for the final section at the second lock.
@@KincadePavich ah. Looked a little offset and you mentioned you needed to drill another hole for air because you used the valve stem hole for the lock. How do you like the balls compared to Michelin mousse?
@@zacharysmith7872 ah I mean yes you are correct it’s not perfectly 180° but it’s like 170° and didn’t warrant another hole IMO haha. I screwed up the air hole by not doing it perfectly center so I don’t want to make it any bigger, silly mistake on my end. Mousse balls are awesome! Similar result to normal mousse with more ability to customize
Well, two strokes are much different than a 4 -strokes. Let me explain it to you from Top Dead Center (Highest point that a piston can reach in cylinder). So as we begin from this point, exhaust valve is closed, inlet valve is closed, only intake valve, so the mixture of air and fuel gets UNDER the piston, then it gets compressed by inlet valve being closed, as piston travels down it has "pre-compressed" the mixture, when piston reaches bottom dead center it spins crank. So the pre-compressed mixture gets into combustion chamber, cylinder , so still in bottom dead center; intake valve is closed, inlet and exhaust is open. (As you know 2 strokes require a mixture of fuel and Oil, oil doesnt gets burnt fully) So you flush the oil out with compressed and burnt fumes. I hope you understand everything pretty well (im a bad explainer).
I’m looking for my first bike I have ridden before but it’s been a hot min any suggestions I don’t have a lot of money so it’s hard to find something for me
That' was strange. I have the same bike but a 24 and have never had that issue. Seems like KTM mapped these again and now they might chop up (aka rich mapping) when going up gnarl for a while. Time for Two Stroke Performance ERM.
It’s great seeing you go through the same progression I did with the new tbi bike. You will hear it a lot I’m sure but your best mod is easily the tsp erm. It will take that bike to some seriously crispy levels plus you get many other features with the erm. Best benefit not talked about as much is the fuel mileage improvements. Both mine and my riding buddy’s bikes were getting 18-20mpg now after the tuner it’s always right at 35mpg which is a huge help with the new gas tank design. Looking forward to seeing more videos. Hopefully we may see you on the trails up here in kalispell some day soon!
There's no way your MPG nearly doubled. Others have tested this and said 0 difference in MPG. You're riding different terrain or riding in a different way to see that difference. 35 MPG from a 2 stroke is only going to happen if you're cruising down fire roads.
I ran the 406xc series as well and those were the numbers I got. Riding buddy has same bike and no tune till second to last race and he was always stopping for fuel. Still a small sample size but it has worked amazing for us. The main benefit is cleaning up the richness and not having to clean the bike out like in kincades video but the erm has many other neat benefits and features.
@@bryson_stafford I don’t disagree, but in reality that bike has to run in every elevation, on every continent with almost all types of “regular” gas with almost any rider on it. Although it’s not great to spend $1000 on a tsp head and tuner, it’s not unlike having to jet a carb depending on your situation. I spent way more on plastics, levers, chain, sprockets, buttons and gizmos than I needed to anyway when that bike is way better than anything I need anyway.
@@JOettel325 auto manufacturers can do it. They should at least make it so you can tune it then, if they can't tune it right. Carburetors don't compensate by design, so that's to be expected, but I expect my fuel injected by to work right from the factory. Also bikes with carbs come with additional jets and good dealers will set it up for your area. Train your dealers to set it up for the country of origin then if you can't do it right.
@@StandlyRichards25 because they do I think. This bike is all lug. My 350 was definitely more torquey at higher RPMs than this bike. This bike has great low end torque at slow speeds.
It's a 2% overall change in gearing (-8% in front, +6% in back), I'm gonna call mostly placebo effect on this one :p Sick upgrades, that wheel set sounds sick.
No sir, smaller front sprocket is lower gearing and bigger rear sprocket is lower gearing. They’re inverse of each other. I’m not gonna do the math, but it’s a hugely significant change. Down one tooth in the front is similar to up 3 or 4 in the rear. So this would be like going from 13/45 to 13/52 if you want to look at it that way.
@@KincadePavich Right sorry my bad, that's huge! The math would be about 14% shorter total I think... but I've lost all credibility now 😆 1st must be insanely short, but I bet 3rd is a dream!
I clean my throttle frequently. Bar ends are to protect the throttle from damage. Do not prefer full wrap guards. Extra width is a disadvantage and they move the bars when hitting obstacles rather than flexing.
@@kingslymopeli1991 either way, you're still going to get better grip out of the sticky tires. There's always a trade off with any tire, that's why they make so many different compounds and threads 🤷♂️
@@kingslymopeli1991 You say yet to have grip problems but are you riding terrain like this? Remember that GoPro makes everything look more mellow than it is. Traction is essential through this stuff. A harder compound would spin.
Foam handles and always use Motul 7100. As an old enduro racer, you have an absolutely awesome setup. You will wear out those tires faster but you can do more on this terrain with softer rubber.
