I made this Kiridashi 

That kind of captures it :)

Thanks! I thought the main difference between annealing and normalising is the cooling rate.

Thanks!

fuck me i skipped the video right at that part....

Thanks!

Thanks!

LOL!

Thanks! I guess HSS is difficult to work with…

Thanks!

Thanks!

Hey, thanks for watching, I’m glad you like the video. In this case I am using the tangent formula. So width of the bevel is thickness/tan(30). Hope this helps!

Thanks!

Hey, it‘s a number 2. Not sure about the size. It is relatively big.

Thanks!

You have to do it before the hardening because afterwards it would be too hard. You wouldn’t be able to dent it as much and it might shatter. With existing knives it will depend on the hardness. It has to be softer than your hammer :)

Thanks!

The drill is great. I have been meaning to make a short video about it.

Thanks!

Thanks!

Thanks!

Yes, it’s great. I am currently working on a short video about its restoration.

Thanks! I left the back side smooth so that I have a flat surface all the way to the cutting edge. This way, the knife can be put flat against a surface which is useful when using it as a marking knife for wood working. Traditional Japanese kiridashis are actually a bit hollow on the back so that they can be sharpened more easily.

@@imadethischannel You're welcome and I wasn't even thinking about that. Brain fart on my behalf lol Thanks for answering the question!!

Haha, do you think it’s that bad?

@@imadethischannel The $100 Billion Dollar Ingredient making your Food Toxic ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-rQmqVVmMB3k.html&t Butter for your toast, seed oil for your workshop. Lovely kiridashi, btw.

It‘s a file from the flea market with no branding. Most of the speed is in the video editing :)

@@imadethischannel ok great. Do you have any recommendations on what type of file to look for? I want the coarsest one available and preferrably something rather big... any suggestions/specs to look up?

In my experience the very coarse files don‘t necessarily make the work much quicker. For me, a large medium coarse file works best because you still get good accuracy.

This is a German-made drill press from the 1930s. They show up on the used market from time to time. I will eventually make short video about it because I get a lot of questions.

Well, I hunted it down on the second hand market;) It‘s a German made antique. I will eventually upload a video about it…

Yes, that‘s why I normalised the file that I filed.

@@imadethischannel oh I know you did, just making a view the outside count Im normally.

It was made by Ixion in Germany, probably in the 1930ies. There will be a video about it soon.

@@imadethischannel it's awesome! Looks like it isn't horribly loud either, I could be wrong though. I can't find anything like it locally haha I'd love something not from the 1950s Steel Mills. I've got an old 1/3HP Drill Press but it's loud as all get out.

This one is really quiet. Just some gear noise.

@@imadethischannel think I found one locally for under $100! Score! This will be a fun addition to my Master Bedroom Workshop! Haha

Hey, the hollow back of Japanese tools is made during the forging process. The idea is to make sharpening the very hard laminated cutting layer easier. It certainly makes sense but using stock removal with hand tools from an old file, this is just not feasible.

@@imadethischannel it's done on a wheel during grinding, not during the forging. It's not only for ease of sharpening, but also to provide an "air pocket" of sorts. Say a kitchen didn't have this on a single blade... Food would stick to it and cutting would be much more difficult. I have a few Japanese kiridashi and they all have this. Although, honestly, you're right about one thing, with the kiridashi I think it's much more for the sharpness factor because they were originally made for wood carving. So you wouldn't really need to worry about anything sticking. I use them as skiving knives for leather working. I like them much more than traditional skiving knives. I was just curious if you have noticed any issues or anything using a single bevel without this. I wouldn't know if it's possible to grind one on what you did here, maybe it is. But with the hardness of a file, I wouldn't imagine it would be very easy

It’s an Ezelap with 250 grit.

so very old files are gonna be best for this project

Yes. The one I used was actually quite new though. If they are broken, you can tell by looking at the surface of the break point.

For marking and cutting things.

@@imadethischannel gracias mi amigo.

Hey, thanks! The colours of the steel in the video can be misleading because they strongly depend on the lighting. The blade came out very hard.

@@imadethischannel ah good to know. However if you would have treated the steel "right" it would have been too brittle to not temper it. But since you are happy with the result you did everything right 🙂

I did temper it ;) 2 hours at. 200 Celsius.

@@imadethischannel oh did I realy miss that? or was it just not in the video

@@scharferschnitt1071 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-3rCYV57ZnJQ.html

Don’t worry. I’m not applying pressure ins the backward stroke 😉.

@@imadethischannel I am sure the file appreciates that🤣🛫

в афиге... просто в афиге...