Can you help me solve this issue with my car? It's wrecking my brain & I'm hoping you have the solution! MERCH ► sammit.net FIND ME EVERYWHERE HERE ► linktr.ee/sammit01 Why I drink Gamer Supps ► • Why Gamer Supps? #Subscribe #SAMMIT
I know what's happening. You have a dual cam tune in the car. It would explain why it works at low RPMs but does not at high RPMs because it is being choked up
Hnm... Good thinking, you might very well be correct. I was thinking it had to do with the trans swap. Something along the lines of the computer expecting to see trans shift but not seeing it and setting limiter to keep from over revving.
Im not super knowledgeable abt rb engines but couldnt it be possible that the ecus searching for a vct singnal and cutting ignition im not sure if the 20det came with vct or not but 5k is abt where it would kick in right?
Hey Sam I have had this issue so many time I’m not sure if you have a AFM plugs setup but this was my problem for the 5500 RPM Limb mode cut for RB20es and RB30es check the wiring on your afm plug make sure there is not internal damage in the inside of the plug and also make sure your afm if you do have one is in good condition !!! I changed my afm and also the afm cable that came from the loom and rewired the loom and it fixed the LIMB MODE issue I hope this helps sam please like this commment so sam can see it !!!!!!!!! Much love from New Zealand
just pre watching and tossing an idea out, there can be huge issues if your cam / crank sensors run near or past the alternator. they will pick up a ton of noise and essentially lose signal. i assume youve probably checked that but just tossing it out there. especially if their readings start to deviate from each other at higher rpm.
I know what the problem is. The tiny rear housing isn't allowing enough flow for the engine to rev.... Sam.... U know it. On a turbo fj20 I run a 84 or 86 rear. You have a 2.0 aswell I believe you need a housing in the 80s
The wrong coil dwell values will cause that exact problem. Go to your ignition dwell table, any value above 2.5 is unless. If there above or below that value, set them to 2.5.
Sorry to hear about your car problems bro. We’ve all been there at some point 😅. I’m not a RB expert or nothing, but most engines work on the same concept. Whenever I worked on my Euros. Half the time they had ignition problems due to the Crank Sensor. It accumulated a bit of rust due to condensation and just sitting around for a while. Thus provided inaccurate readings to the trigger. It would fire up normal, but as soon as you’d rev to 3500-4000 RMPs they stumbled. Making me think it was something else unrelated to the issue. It threw no codes or engine lights. Needless to say $60 to fix the problem was a complete mental relief. It’s worth checking out the Cam sensors or possible MAF. Those have given me similar issues of stumbling. Best of luck! 🤙🏻✨ Looking forward to the next blog.
try a proper scope on your timing sensor(also check stability of other signal wires like TPS). make sure your main alternator wires are not close to any others, and if they are shield them.
Im not familiar with link ecu software. Things to check in ecu software. Safety features. These can limit rpm,boost, if triggered. Depends on settings.Such as.(they need to be disabled if not in use) Knock control. Fuel press limits. Temp limits Pressure limits. Even ecu temp limits. It does sound like a type of lauch control. Check launch control settings and make sure its nit triggered on.(disable launch control if not in use) Setting timing is crucial to the whole thing. Get that done. Best to use a cheap non adjustable timing light.
i was thinking the same cause it was automatic and he remove the stock shifter and there a harness there that my maxima would go into limp mod cause of the shift lock
It really sounds like an ECU timing setting. The coil packs wouldn't make the car limit revs. I had the same issue on my fueltech, I had the sensor set up wrong. Changed that and it worked perfectly
Wonder what’s gunna work 🤔 Shout out to whoever nailed the problem 😎🤘 Yugo’s already feelin the vibe, give him a few years he’ll be spinning wrenches and making adjustments 😁
I'd check the rev limiter set and double it. Really sounds like it's in the tune or timing. Does the car do the same limiter while driving around or just free revving?
im thinking its more timing related, did you sync your timing? so check with a timing light if the data you are using in the ecu is the correct timing what the car is actually running. i think ive seen jimmy screw around with this too, you could try and ask him about it seeing he is the big link ecu guy.
Sam can you do a reset? Remove battery terminals. Return after 30 minutes. If it does not work can you try checking fuses. I'm not a mechanic or car electrician. But possibly safe enough without changing or replacing anything
Please finish the pink s15 and drive it again. Why it take so long to finish that car? The engine was running just send it to bodyshop to make it faster and do something with your r33. I really miss when you driving your cool car again mate
How's the fuel system? Possibly a Fuel Cut Defender might help, is good for the Aristo, another could be alternator/coil sending messages that there's not enough fuel, so it starts to waffle, then cuts out.. Also with my old single jingle CA I had to advance the timing a bit, then it would rev really hard. Hope this helps 🙏 all the best
MAF signal is not right when measuring airflow, tune could not be for that engine, fuel pump in the tank could be bad or if you have it hardwired you could have an issue in the electrical line. The tune is a likely culprit but you would need a data log from a dyno run to show the AF and corrections and the STFT and LTFT.
@@Rmfc88. yup bro I do believe , just enjoying the process , infact I’m buying my first car next month it’s Mitsubishi galant I would aesthetically modify it , I won’t tune because I want it right now to be fuel efficient. I’ll update you here after I buy my first car , I’m so excited 🤙
You could be stuck in limp mode? Is the air flow reading right? I know sometime nissans will freak out when you mess with the safety equipment like brakes, air bags, or break lights. Just the fact it's 5k rpm it sound like limp. I've had a bunch of nissan's go into limp and they cut at 3-5k.
Perhaps it’s the injector dead times or coil dwell times. I had a similar thing happen to my R32 when I installed new injectors and didn’t change the flow or dead times in the ECU. Unplug any old and unused OEM O2 sensor and MAF connectors that could mess with the ECU.
It has to do with your auto to manual swap. Quite a few 240 guys have ran into the same issue. “Ok so i just came across and old post with the same problem. It said to unplug the 5th gear switch (OD Switch) on the transmission wich was what I had changed right before the problem occurred. It worked and the car is running fine!!!”
Manifold pressure sensor, I could be wrong because I don't know what parts is in the setup, if it's the NA sensor it's only designed to read vacuum, it's either that or a maping issue... It sounds and feels like it's in limp mode, it's definitely cutting out, like the ECU is cutting ignition and probably fuel too, only a data log could tell what is going on when it happens...
The factory reg is already a rising rate reg. Nothing wrong with them. No point changing till you go bigger rail. My 2c worth is to check that your timing numbers in that area of the map are slow low it's not letting the engine rev. Hence why it sorta sounds like a baby antilag.. trying to make the combustion happen so late it's physically trying to stop the engine at that engine speed.. so throw some numbers at it and see if it helps.. if it doesn't then we'll good luck lmao Also I am running neo loom and link on a s1 rb25det. Had to repin the cas to suit. If you have the it all wrong it won't run. If the signal wires are wrong 100% you get trigger errors the ece doesn't care about 1 or 2 cams that's completely mechanical
Fuel pump wiring can sometimes cause havoc. I always start with upgrading the fuel pump wiring and fuel system before I start a build. A new cas. I think uve done that. Coil wiring harness And basically from here I would be hitting a dyno and troubleshoot from there.... I do have a great tuner. If u got a decent tuner hit the dyno
I had the same problem on my sr it turned out to be some sand inside my cam trigger sensor that would blow around when it started revving and block the optical sensor at odd times.mine had the same antilag like redline just before 5k rpms. I cleaned it out and put the sensor back on the car and it's fine now. it took me forever and a pile of parts to finger it out lol.
Love the content and hopefully u can get the Bogan 32 to made power also the bit of Hugo in the video is something else and that very wholesome moment there man
I wonder if it’s a cpu block because I know some cpus has some power caps for some country’s or here for some states, that needs be unlock just thinking what it could be. And in order see that is you may need certain Dyno to unlock it that’s just my guess.. other then that that baby running on max rev hehe he’s soo cute! Lol
PC log the "limit". Check tach calibration vs voltage and rpm. What rpm (engine speed) is showing in the link if you log that at say 1000hz? If you watch your factory tacho it seems to go above that "limit" before being pulled back down again. If there is excess trigger noise at higher rpm logging will show this.
If you are using the old alternator it likely is not putting out enough to. Cover the new draw you added I to high and it can't adjust enough to cover the draw
If the car is still running a igniter chip check that, had a issue like this on a 4age 20v and turned out to be wrong igniter chip that wouldn’t let it rev.
My first guess would be the ignition coils, you should try coil on plug setup these ignition coil wires might be shorting/losing spark. - if you run it in the dark you might see it sparking onto your intake manifold or something
Best guess . Chassis was a Auto. I'm woñdering if the ECU is thinking it's in park and cutting fuel at 5k. Rpm .. kinda makes sense. Alot of cars I had that were auto. Never reved passed 5k I'm thinking there's a wire in the chassis harnesses that needs jumped. Or bypassed
Had similar issue, so DE / E have a afm, and maf, pretty sure you will have the map wiring right but the wires that you aren’t using need to be snipped so it’s no longer looking for the signal in the loom! All sounds a bit odd but yeah if you need further help I can get you in contact with my tuner in New Zealand and he can either remote tune in help you out! Just let me know!!
Sounds like ECU/ sensor issue. On my Nistune, I have Launch control turned on(rpm cut and timing retardation) and when I lost my speed signal, it thought I was constantly in launch mode because it saw 0 mph.
Check coil earth, make sure it runs to it's own earth on the engine (and that the wire size is sufficient) so you don't get all that coil noise through the ecu. Also make sure you have enough power supply to the coils but earth supply will more likely be a cause.
I think since you had a auto trans maybe the computer thinks it’s in park and it won’t let it rev over 4k rpm… try putting it in drive with the shifter and see if it’ll rev higher.
A wild guess but I vaguely recall a video of someone diagnosing a Motorsports Electronics ECU and something about idle target messed up the entire tune because of one wrongly ticked box as it kept trying to get back to idle or something. Like I said, vague memory...
Could be 30e tune as they don't rev as high but when i was looking at trigger kits for single cam RB it said the 24 point wouldn't work and a 36 point was needed
I would definitely look into the lack of a second cam registering an advanced level of timing?!? If I had to bet a dollar HP logic would love to problem solve helping to find an answer!
Check if the trigger looks fine with trigger scope function in link. Or check in the logs if the rpm is everywhere. If you have weird rpm readings in the logs it is usually trigger faults. But then again i believe the link ecu would report trigger errors
Or! I know it's different but I also had a VERY similar issue with a sportbike that I used to have. I had done some work on it and took it for a test ride and it wouldn't rev over 10k rpm (bike revved over 16k) after talking to an old pro racer friend of mine (RIP Dustin Apgar) he suggested that I check for a pinched vacuum line under my fuel tank. Sure enough, as I was lifting my tank and looking underneath I watched the hose unkink. Bolted the tank back down took it back out and it was good as new. So maybe look and see if your fuel system has any vacuum lines running to/from it and make sure that they're in good shape. Maybe the boost on the non-boost O.E. fuel system is causing a hose to collapse on itself and creating a negative draw on the system limiting RPM. P.S. - My sportbike didn't throw any error codes either when this occurred.
(I asked someone who seemed to know more but I'm wondering if maybe the cam angle sensor or something in that motor wasn't made to count that fast? Like maybe the trigger wheel bit just turns into a blur at some point? ) (Hrm, without being able to see the whole problem it looks like there ought to be flashing properly overlapped, maybe with a bit of a kickout where the baseplate of the framing meets the concrete, etc. Typhoon must be showing you what you get with that much sideways rain there. )
4:47 sick first gen Forester. It's always weird seeing american cars over there like that Avalanche. I just finished watching the Larry/Hagerty vid from a few weeks ago on Hardcore Motherfucker's builds. Sick stuff. So refreshing seeing that 2nd gen Camaro like in that video instead of the stock ones I was used to at work. I got the HKS/Tone 10mm keychain, just got a chance to put it to use last weekend. And yeah I made the same joke about losing my keys...
