I put 35s on my Disco 1! 

I’d rather have an old Land Rover than a Jeep any day. Especially over here, where Jeeps are EVERYWHERE.

Hi mate, solihull hospital by any chance.. same here. I still dont live to far from there and i now rebuild classic landrovers fulltime. i must have it in my blood

Thanks, Patrick!

Welcome, and thank you. The Disco is non-rusty where it counts (the chassis), but the body has a couple spots where the terrible OEM floor insulation held water for years.

Thanks, glad you enjoyed it!

Thanks!

So as you can probably tell, I tend to agonize over these decisions more than most, and in my research, I found these Maxxis Klevers in a 35x10.5x17. Trouble is finding a 17" wheel in 5x165mm. But that may be a good starting point for you, if they're available where you are. simpletire.com/paid?brand=kenda&itemId=180454&mpn=601015&productLine=klever-r-t-kr601&tireSize=lt35-10.50r-17&v=1&region_id=1000109999&G_Shopping_Region_04&hsa_acc=2136589202&hsa_cam=6452853052&hsa_grp=&hsa_ad=&hsa_src=x&hsa_tgt=&hsa_kw=&hsa_mt=&hsa_net=adwords&hsa_ver=3&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw-r-vBhC-ARIsAGgUO2DyU_XMGczaPje6rN4964QWBiACr-bFJObFxLFTxH8WJ7-WoHbw6D4aAqZKEALw_wcB&delivery=Del5

@@tfrasca142 Thank you for the advise. Unfortunately Kenda tires are not really a thing in Europe/Germany and this size is not available. The only tire i can find right now which is not retreaded is the CST Landdragon diagonal tire from Asia. This is designed for the rainforest and would look amazing but probably drive like a bag of marbles.

Oh, bummer. I agree that you probably don't want a Land Dragon for anything that sees regular road use. @@t0nit04

255/100r16 aka 9x16 is a 36-37” skinny. Michelin is still making them in their xzl but are quite pricey. Dozen different Chinese knockoffs though

Thanks!

Thanks!

Thanks!

I appreciate that, thanks. Keeping it simple with skinny 33's is almost definitely the smarter option, but sometimes I get something in my head and am powerless against it. There's no denying how capable my Disco was with the 255s.

Thanks!

Thanks!

Thanks, that's the plan!

Thanks!

That's rad! Let me know how it works out. Also, I love Troopers. I was shopping for them when I found my Disco. Was yours a 1st or 2nd gen?

@@tfrasca142go search Survival Dispatch Trooper. That’s my trooper. I might sell it and just build the disco. We’ll see

2nd gen. Do you have a parts list you used for the lift kit?

@@TJackSurvival As of right now it has RTE +3" springs and 1" spacers, Terrafirma +2" shocks, an RTE A-arm extension, and the custom trailing arms I made in this video.

Man, that's interesting to hear from someone who's done the flairs and regrets it. To be honest, I could probably come around to liking the shape of the flairs, but it's mainly the exposed bolts and hacking the rear door that turns me off. For what it's worth, I think your D1 looks fantastic.

@@tfrasca142 I don’t mind the look of them to be honest but once you cut the arches you can’t go back

Thanks. The lights are Aux Beams. Crazy bright.

That's a good point, and now that I think about it, seems like common sense. Thanks for the feedback!

Oh that's good info, thanks. They haven't made it all the way to the trash can yet, so I'll plan on tossing them back in. Do you have them on the front, too? Mine didn't have any on the front when I got it, and I always wondered why.

That’s cool to hear, thanks. I’m a graphic designer by trade, but I’ve been interested in cars since I got my license. I learned all the basics out of necessity. All my cars have been relatively old, and I’ve had to maintain them myself. The fabrication stuff is still kind of new to me, in the last five years or so. I’ve learned what I kind mostly by watching others and trial and error.

Very nice work. I'm road tripping my Disco 1 up to Portland from LA beginning of April if you have some trails (or want to hit them) you can recommend?@@tfrasca142

Thanks! Oh, engineering knowledge might be a stretch. I’m just adept at googling stuff I want to know. I work as a graphic designer for a bicycle company. Never had the math chops for professional engineering.

Thank you! I've thought about those little lip fender extensions, and I don't think it would look bad at all. The issue with clearance is mostly up and down though. As it sits now, the tires only poke out from the fender 3/4" or so, so the spray doesn't seem too bad. Time will tell how this all shakes out though.

Thanks. I plan on doing a follow when I can hit some trails. I’ll add my comments on MT02 vs KM3, but 315 vs 255 makes it an apples to oranges comparison.

That’s good to hear, thanks. I did a poll on my channel a few months back and the overwhelming majority preferred skinny 33s. So I’ve been waiting for the onslaught of hate.

@tfrasca142 As long s As your happy the rest doesn’t matter. That's the tough part about 16s. 17s offers a lot more options in between the two. 285 75 R17s or even a couple 35 x 10s

Yeah, I was looking at the Maxxis 35x10.5x17, but finding 17" wheels was difficult. @@mikemorton0

​@@mikemorton0I've never found a real life scenario where Skinny's actually work better it is all either preference or theoretical. It's like someone says well look they made it and so that means they're good. But I have found scenarios where a little lighter actually puts more rubber on the ground like rock crawling. I've never had a case where 11.5 + width was too wide and making it slide and not catch traction where a skinny would have been more narrow and cut in and cut traction. The whole Theory makes sense but in real life it just doesn't seem to be the case. I can't go right through super super deep sand with wide tires and the Disco goes fast and easy and up Sandy Hills but it doesn't dig in as much as a skinny sometimes will. I think it's just a nostalgic thing that people hold on to and then try and justify it. That's why there's no professional racing with skinnies in any type of off-road category

Thanks for the welding tips! I hadn't even thought of using chromoly. I've welded stainless before, but never 4130. I assume it's pretty similar to stainless? The threaded insert on the joint end was a pretty tight fit, but I am wishing I had done a plug weld. I was super stressed about distorting the threads though. Congrats on the D1, and I hear you about the Toyota tax. Like I told someone else here that I would have an 80 series if I could afford one.

@@tfrasca142 4130 is similar to regular steel to weld on threaded ends brass bolts are what I use then chase it with a tap slower cooling helps limit distortions to

Hopefully I'll be able to do a follow up when the snow melts a bit. Thanks!

Yeah, I knew I was making a time bomb of kinetic energy with that thing, but I had struggled with it for long enough at that point. And I haven't noticed any difference without those rear isolators. I'll probably put them back in next time I take the springs out though.

Thanks. To be honest, I haven’t actually used Paint for this, and I’ve had Macs for decades. I was under the impression that there’s a ruler function in Paint though. Maybe I’m wrong about that…

This is what I hope to do if needed. I just watched some of your videos. Nice RRC. I love those, and would absolutely have one if I could afford a nice one.

Thanks! Yeah, the old tires were 255/85r16 (33") and the new ones are 315/75r16 (35ish").

I got you: foundry4x4.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=207

Oh, mine was converted to a 4-bolt DIN flange before I bought it. I actually forgot that D1s come with the flex joint guibo thing.

Yes, my wheels have 0 mm offset, so your stock +33 mm wheels with a 30 mm spacer are almost the same as mine now. Unfortunately, I think I may have to add spacers to mine too. I really wanted to avoid using spacers, which will probably necessitate cutting the fenders more, but I may have to.

I've done nothing so far, but so far in normal street driving, it stops ok. Are you sure everything is working well on yours? Maybe they need a bleed?

Interesting. I have been running them at 30-32 psi on the road, and it does seem like they're mainly running on the center lugs. I can chalk them to be sure, but after pulling into the carport from the rain, the tracks only show the centers of the tires. I'll mess with that some more though, thanks for the feedback. Also, I love 80 series Cruisers. I definitely would have gotten one over the Disco if I could afford it. Curious why you are downsizing the lift and tires? Looking for a lower center of gravity?

That came from rtefab.com.

I fully agree. And I admit that tall skinnies look “right” on a disco is a period correct way. But so far the 315s have outperformed the 255s at everything. Except maybe fuel mileage but I haven’t noticed a big difference there.

@@tfrasca142 haha yeah fuel economy exactly but at least you got the gears. I'm on 285 75 16 with Factory gearing still.

@@tfrasca142 plus look at a dirt bike if you compare the power to weight ratio of a dirt bike and how wide the rear tire is it is absurdly wide and works out

@@ronaldrrootiii6040 if you ever do gears, you’ll love the drivability improvement. 4.12s would be perfect for 285s.

@@tfrasca142 sweet yeah I plan on doing that after the suspension! I just don't know how to properly install the pinion gear after changing things out. I know you have to get it set just right but I just can't find any instruction that actually explains in depth how to measure properly and what the measurement needs to be. There's a video of a guy in England doing it but he talks kind of fast and he just keeps adding shims until he reaches some number that he wants to reach but I don't know where he got that number from that's what my problem is. It'd be nice if there is some sort of instruction with illustrations from like a side view showing the exact height written out and what tool measures it and what shims for example would get to that height and how to measure what yours is ahead of time and how to match it. I know you did it so I guess I'm just curious how the heck did you figure it out? I just don't want it to work out prematurely with the improper lash tension. And I'm not about to pay lucky 8 to build me one. I could just order the gears and the Locker myself. I have front and rear third members from a parts truck that I could put on a bench and do without even taking mine apart until those are ready I just don't know what the hell to do

I haven't even done a full tank yet, so I'm not sure. Also, I need to calculate how far off the speedo and odometer are. I had it figured out with the old tires and gears, and the bigger tires bring it closer to accurate, but not quite. I anticipate a slight drop, since these tires are massive compared to the skinnies.

Wow, thanks for saying that!

It's a concern, for sure. My tires aren't nearly as heavy as yours, but I could see a Defender caliper upgrade in my future. I also have some extended stainless brake lines to install. I don't think they'll help with breaking power, but they should at least give it a firmer pedal. Do you have plans to upgrade your brakes?

@@tfrasca142 I am experimenting now. My D1 has ABS which means a particular master cylinder. The car has the large, Defender 110 callipers front and rear. Braking is not good enough. A recommendation was to fit the Disco frt calipers to the rear. It didn’t work. The master cylinder does not push enough fluid to properly apply the pads. No pedal pressure. I think the std master cylinder is marginal for Defender calipers. I will now try Defender lge frt calipers with Disco rear…less fluid needed so could mean pads are squeezed tighter onto the rotors. Also will try Disco frt calipers on frt and Defender rr..again, should be more pedal pressure. I simply cannot justify the expense of fancy Brembo or whatever 6pot and 4pot calipers, with no guarantee that they will be any better. Your evolution of the Disco is excellent; logical, measured, intelligent.

I'm still kind of assessing that, but it doesn't seem like the trailing arm joints have introduced any new vibration or noise. I have a tiny bit of driveshaft vibration while accelerating from 20-45 mph, but I think that is from the front driveshaft. But honestly, it's very close to how it was before all this work. I'm going to do motor mounts (which are shot) and an adjustable panhard bar next.

I wouldn't say the advantages are gone. 4.37 with 35" tires is still a lower ratio than the stock 3.54 with a 29" tire. I already have an adapter on the spare tire holder that should let me put a 35" tire back there, I just need a new wheel and tire. And if it doesn't fit, I'm happy to make a new spare tire holder. As for the body lift, you're right about that. I thought a lot about it, and decided not to because I didn't want to have a gap between the body and the bumpers. I could fix that, but I couldn't think of a way to make it look good. I think the ideal way to do a 4" lift is 2" in the suspension and 2" in the body. But anyway, thanks for the feedback!

Yeah his prices are completely outrageous. Springs were $500! And the fact that you have to call him to get a quote is wild. High quality stuff, for sure, but a bit over priced I’d say.

@@tfrasca142 LOL yeah I feel like he changes the price over the phone. He just upgraded his website but it really is pretty much still incomplete at the same time as far as just having options to select and purchase

@@tfrasca142 hey so I can't remember what you said you used to have but I ordered the Terra Firma 4 inch lift from lucky 8 and I was a little disappointed to find that they used the 2-inch Springs and then 2 inch spacers. The kit really doesn't say that. I guess 4-in Springs aren't really available outside of RTE are they? I mean I will go with the lucky 8 stuff I mean it'll still be better than o m e 2-in to get full Flex with my extended lines and sensors running no sway bars but still it's kind of annoying. But anyway is RTE the only 4-inch Springs actually available do you think ??

@@ronaldrrootiii6040 yeah the lack of a “buy” option is not great.

@@ronaldrrootiii6040 actually the RTE 4” springs are just 3” plus spacers as well. I already had terrafirma 2” springs with spacers, so I just ordered the 3” ones from RTE.

16x7, 0mm offset. Soon I'll upgrade to a 16x8, to better fit the tires.

Was waiting for someone to comment on that. There's a pin hole in the center muffler, and that was condensation dumping out of it. Not saying it doesn't leak some oil and some ATF, but that leak is just water in the exhaust.

I’ve trimmed a bunch of the fender out and so far it’s working pretty well without flares.

I’d love to. Just hard to balance relatively high effort videos, a full-time job, a family, and staying healthy. If I figure it out, a weekly video schedule is my goal.

For sure, heard. Great videos, love following along. I have a 2003 disco 2 and I am upgrading it significantly, however not myself.

They are! It's crazy. I have +4" ones in a box in the garage, but I haven't needed them yet. That's not to say they haven't been at or near their limit, but they haven't failed. I plan to install the longer ones in the next round of mods.

I'm trying to stay strong. It's looking like I'm going to need to at least cut the fenders more. I also have spacers and flares in the garage, just in case. It's hard not to want to take the easy route...

@@tfrasca142 Use the force. You don't have to install them just because they're there!

Go find Yourself darker place to be😂

You know, you're not wrong. I got this Land Rover DISCOvery for $2800 and it came with a second, identical one. So pretty cheap. Out of curiosity, what do you drive?

Better than 90% American Cars 😂😂😂

@@tfrasca142he drives everyone he comes into contact with crazy. And that doesn’t come cheap.

@@tfrasca142 billy Bob hasn’t responded to your question, I wonder why.