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I put clear shipping tape on the wood, then squirt the hot glue on that. I also fold over the end of the tape, so there's a tab to pull for removal. I do that any time I know I'll be removing any kind of tape.
My thought too. Ideally, move the saw forward to have enough room behind it so wood won't hit the back wall, and open the garage door so you have room in front.
It would have to be pretty heavy traffic to not find plenty of time to stick a board out the door for a minute or less. And most garages have a drive area that you turn into to get to your garage. They don't butt right onto the street. I suspect the traffic issue would be minimal.
@@GaryStewart2020 That would not have any significant effect if you only opened the door when you needed it open (less than a minute for one board, a few minutes for several), and did not plan to do this if it was raining.
Came here to say (well, ask) the same thing - on smooth surfaces I'd use Isopropyl Alchohol (or Isopropanol, depending on where you are) and I assume the same would work on wood.. or does the alcohol affect the wood itself?
I often use hot melt glue to mount woodturning blanks. When I am done turning, I spray some denatured alcohol (99%) on the glue, let it sit for a moment, and then I peel the glue off with a putty knife. The alcohol evaporates quickly, does not leave a residue, and does not raise the wood grain. ✔✔✔ Also, acetone or denatured alcohol will clean up wet epoxy "smears" -- as will white vinegar. Scrape off the excess epoxy and wipe up the remainder with one of these solvents and a clean cloth. BTW: A Stanley #80 cabinet scraper works well for removing glue and epoxy -- and it is easier on the hands than a card scraper.
Wow, that is one beautiful project. The only issue I can see with it, is when you open the doors up you are going to be constantly down on your knees to put stuff into those nicely made compartments, because the doors are going to completely block your view being the cabinet is mounted so low to the floor. I think I would have opted to have those doors swing down. Well, you're a young guy and maybe you won't be accessing those compartments too often. Best regards, Ted Long Island, NY
11:8 Best trick of my life when making lines. After making a point with a pen, keep pen in point and grab the square and move it toward the pen. That way you make a line on the point instead of square+pen messing with your alignment.
I always enjoy your videos, they are true to how some of us struggle in small workshops with limited equipment yet achieve great results. keep up the great work!!
Yeah, I got me one of those battery adapters. I've got nothing but milwaukee tools and batteries. But then I saw a Dewalt hammer drill (normally $250) on sale for $80. And I needed a hammer drill. But I refuse to have to buy a bunch of different batteries for different brands of tools. But with that battery adapter, it's not an issue. And it totally works like a champ! Thank you for showing that! Just FYI, don't use the adapter to charge the batteries on a different brand charger. It will destroy the battery and not hold a charge anymore. They come with a warning about it, but I was ignorant and had to try it myself...😢
I'm amazed by the amount your able to do in that workspace. When you move to a large shop at some point the sky will be the limit. Great work. Care to share your fav local supplier for rough lumber? Im on the sw side of Cbus. Keep it up !
Fastest edge joining alignment I've used is splines. Set up a router with a slot cutter and plane your scrap pieces to be the spine material. Have a wide variety of edge joining options, biscuit joiner( permanently retired), Domino (mostly collects dust), edge to edge, etc... splining is the fastest and most precise.
An interesting thought for an epoxy dam - use a bowling ball plug dam. People plug their bowling balls with epoxy to redrill them all the time. To keep the resin in without spilling all over, companies make these plug dams that adhere to the surface of the ball and they just peel up when done. They come in ovals or circles and a bunch of different sizes. Just look up bowling plug dam and voila.
Are you not allowed to open the garage door when you're planing? I don't actually need to, but I usually do just so the whole neighborhood can bask in the sounds.
When glueing up the edges, I always rotate the grain on every board to prevent potential bow. One board will have a (smile😊) direction at each end, and the next one should have a (frown ☹️) direction. I learned this from my father who built a chair for Henry Kissinger, so I thought he might have a point.
Saw you video on what Instagram did, awesome attitude, good videos, this is my third video of yours I’m watching. Keep pushing forward, be stubborn, will your way through it, God bless you.
I noticed how clean the back of the boards were with the epoxy filler just using packing tape. You might consider filling holes that go all the way through the board from the back using the packing tape on the top side of the board. You may need to be more careful in filling the holes and leaving slack in the tape to ensure the epoxy stands proud of the top surface to be "scraped" flush. Then you can use the tape method on the backside as well, and voila, no more hot glue.
A few things to help out. - Hot glue releases fairly easily using denatured alcohol. ISA works too, but not quite as well. - Sharpening a card scraper is really no big deal. Once you get the hang of it, you can do it in about 5 minutes or less. I LOVE using a card scraper. If done right, no sanding needed after. File off old bevel while card scraper is held in a clamp. Next, put card scraper on a known flat surface, I use a chunk of granite, and use hardened steel rod to draw out the sharpened edge. Then use the same rod to ease the sharp edge over into a bur. It literally takes a few minutes.
Why not cut your boards to rough length before jointing, gluing, etc.? You could have planed them to thickness as well after rough cutting to length, saving you that added expense. The circuit breaker popping is because your tablesaw using a 20 amp motor, which is why the plug wasn't the standard 15 amp plug. You're using a 20amp to 15amp adapter, but your wire and circuits are still only 15amp. Add in that your dust collector and lights are also maybe on the same circuit and overloads are inevitable.
For the freedom cleats it's not a bad idea to also put a keyhole on the left and right side of your cabinet so that you can have a locking bar shoved in. This way it slides in underneath the part that's attached to the wall and prevents the cabinet from being lifted upward and just popping off the wall.
First thing I thought of when you mentioned "your patented hip thrust" was Jason from Bourbon Moth and a few seconds later he shows up. Gotta love the woodworking creators community. Love your videos, keep up the good work!!
Absolutely beautiful and love all the details of how you built this. However, < incoming! >I gotta say that it is odd to me that the cabinet doors are basically at knee height and you made them open up instead of down - seems very awkward to me.
You can use plasticine modelling clay to make a dam. it's easy to apply, just roll it out and then it comes off really easily. You can also reuse most of it so it's economical too.
I have the same problems with having enough power to keep the breaker on. I cheated and just setup a permanent power cord running from a 220 outlet on my house, out to my garage.
Tip for getting the hot glue off easier. Take an old putty knife, the wider ones are better because they are a bit flimsier and bend easier. Take something and put a bit of a knife edge on the putty knife, not super sharp but enough. Then if you have a leather strop hone it a bit then use that to get the glue up. Its wide enough it shouldn't dig into the wood. I've used this trick a few times to get different substances off of projects I didn't want to tear up. The one I'm using is the 6 inch wide I had left over from remodeling my house when I bought it.
I read somewhere that 84% of the glue used by DYIs is either squeezed out or just sits inside a loose mortice. Don't worry about glue starvation. The biggest cause of that is clamping too tightly. That's a whole 'nother topic that gets into the weeds. Worth the journey.
Try putting down blue tape and then hot glue over top of the blue tape. Now you peel up the blue tape off of the wood and not the hot glue. This will work for a deep poor resin that doesn't get super hot like the fast set resin does... So your mileage may vary.
Awesome results, great videography. A small comment. It looked like you used the larger, ripping, teeth on your Japanese handsaw to cut crossgrain, and the smaller, crossgrain teeth, to rip, when you removed the small piece off of one board. A minor point, in a great project video. Thanks.
I would say, end grain to end grain on your miters the dominos are in fact adding lots of strength by converting those into side grain to side grain glue-ups.
Why is it that I can only thumbs up this video the once? Bro!!! Brilliant piece, and I really love the cameos. Haha. Thank you for sharing your creative journey with the rest of us.
I have to give a thumbs up to woodworkers who dare to post their work, because of course it invites all sorts of endless backseat driving comments from the Peanut Gallery. I enjoy wood projects but am certainly no expert, so I always learn something from videos like this. Thanks!
@25:22 You could have made a rabbet cut instead of using the nibble method, or a dado set. To make a good, clean, rabbet, you would want to make a jig to support your board.
Haha 9:10 blue tape over the left window on your fence. Mine looks exactly the same after I cut a board two inches too narrow. One of my biggest complaints with the Harvey fence.
Haven't read the comments, forgive any "repeat" ideas... but for the hot-glue removal, combine the "packing tape" concept from the other side, with the hot glue. Lay down a strip of packing tape, cut out an appropriate sized hole to let the resin through, then make the hot-glue dam on top of the tape (it may melt depending on heat setting and tape type, but it won't strongly adhere to the wood). Then for removal, simply peeling up the tape will remove the hot melt glue from the surface (basically blocking the glue from sticking into the wood pores). At least that's a thought, obviously need to test-trial on scrap first! Love the channel!
Аbout the automatic fuse disconnection - install a fuse in your workshop and it will trip when there is an overload from the tools and you will be able to turn it on when it happens again. And you can also try to install soft start on the tools with high current consumption at startup Good luck
Great work Eric, it's been a while. That build is something you should be proud of! To make it a bit easier on yourself consider opening your garage door when needed and also I find it helpful to use a small amount of denatured alcohol to help release the hot glue from the wood. 👍
Nice! I have been kicking around some ideas for TV stand, or a Media Console as you refer to yours. I like it! I'm watching your video right around dinner time, think I'll head down to McDowells and get some of their famous Fresh Fries....see you on the next one!
Really good video. You said all those dominos were not for strength but alignment. I was just wondering why you didn’t use the tape folding method using reinforced packing tape. That is more efficient in both material and hassle, not to mention time. I’m just saying ….
When you are ready to remove the hot glue try applying some isopropyl alcohol along the edges of the glue. It will slow loosen the glue and wick under it. You may need to apply more alcohol.
Nice hot glue trick. Is it maybe an idea to put tape in-between the glue and the wood? So that you don't have that brittle glue to remove because it's stuck on more structured tape. I'm curious if that works for you?
as another woodworker in Columbus I’m pretty sure I know exactly where you paid a ton of money for banana lumber hahaha. the people who work there are great but I basically just buy exotic offcuts there.
Swear on God the other day I was thinking I bet Eric's making so.ething pretty Dope & gonna drop a video pretty soon. Then Boom Shacka Lacka a 51+ min. cinematic banger featuring Freedom Cleets!! Hoping all is well my friend, Dirty Jersey out!!
I was going to suggest a drinking game where you took a drink anytime you said perfect or absolute but I don't think anyone would be able to live through it
Cutting down a plastic jig... bl**dy good idea at the time! My ex-wife could never understand how I had no problem drilling /screwing into the timber walls of my Queenslander (Australian Victorian era) house... hay, gap filler was invented for a reason
So, probably a dumb question, but I’m just learning, and I see it as the only dumb question, is the one not asked. So, as for the question, why only moderate clamping pressure when gluing two boards together?
So... are you sick enough of playing Dachshund every time you want to get behind those doors yet, that you've finally made them into drawer fronts? A little tip. A faster way, and one that can be done with a lot more inaccurate tools for the sliding dovetails, and get them perfectly snug, is to wedge them, just one side. Make your inserts longer, and just reduce them in length on the dovetail part until it is as snug as you want, then cut off the ends where they're supposed to. Old school way for hand tools, and you can even do it with a regular circular saw
