I Was Wrong! Spyderco CPM S110V Blade Chipped 

Wood looks great but with floor heating a tiled floor is more practical...but yeah....can't really split wood on it now can I? :)))

I think that people missunderstood this video. The damage was so small. The edge angle is really small. It was bound to happen. I did put it thru its paces for a long time. There is nothing wrong with the steel or HT. At 15 dps...this steel will take some abuse and smile. As for sharpness...i believe you. I stand by what I said in my first video about it! It is a good steel and as tough as most others(sure there will be differences, but if you do normal stuff with it-and what i did was not "normal", it should be ok)

lol, so true ✌️

Ich fuerchte die meisten haben das "falsch aufgenommen". Diesen kleinen Ausbruch kann ich garnicht spueren. Das Messer habe ich langer Zeit getestet und nichts ist passiert. Jetzt dass ich es versucht habe die Spitze zu chippen habe ich nur geschaft so viel Schaden zu machen. So benutze ich meine Messer nicht. Ich wollte damit nur zeigen das "ja, es kann passieren" allerdings so wie ich in anderen video gesagt habe, nicht under normalen brauch. Der Titel...tja....zu "clickbait-y"...da habe ich mich selber reingelegt. :)) Momentan habe ich nur Buche und weichere holz...Ich bn immer gespannt was "normale" Menschen mit ihre Messer so schneiden. Danke ;) Denis

Thank you! Glad you found it useful.

I think so too...given the small edge angle and how much i used this knife prior the last session where it was just abusing it to see the damage...said damage which occurred was really small. Glad you liked the video!

In this case the tip was very resilient. I had to drop the edge angle to 12 dps then strop it for 5-6 months and then abuse it to get minimal damage. I think that one should look at the characteristics of the tool before deciding to use it "hard"(by that I mean abuse, like what I did here). I "dropped" the tip on my first Para 2 out of fear it would break. The one on my Military never broke and the since then I got 3 more Para2's and tested them, with edge angles as low as 12 dps. Under normal cutting tasks, that means not what I did here as for that I do prefer to use outdoor blades, there was no damage. This, what happened here, was me trying to push it, beyond what I would normally do even in test. Considering all the elements, low edge angle, stropped for 5-6 months and then abused, I would say that the damage was minimal. The title....was not my best moment.

I have both Cold Steel's and Spyderco's XHP. I think Spyderco's might be a bit harder. I found it a bit more difficult to regrind but it held it's edge a bit longer and came back with stropping much easier. now...about this video...i fear that i gave it a "clickbait-y" title as a joke and most people took it the wrong way. The damage was minor. I have been using this knife a long time and testing it. Had no issues. Only after not sharpening it on stone for several months and sort of abusing it with side-to-side stress did it lose a small piece of the tip which in use you can't even notice. For me the nice parts about S110V are all there and there are no draw-backs. I want to get a UKPK with S110V as i think i would really like it in that model. I had a UKPK and it had a really thin grind. So that, if the S110V version has as thin of a grind...i think i will like it

I think this video can easily be missunderstood. It is my own fault because I "clickbaited" the title. The damage was minimal and the cause: user "error". I have not sharpened the knife on stones for 4-5 months. And in the previous day I did a lot of side-to-side movements. To be honest I was expecting there to be a larger chipout. With 4-5 months of moderate use and stropping back to shaving sharp...i can't exclude fatigue. but then again....what I did was esentially prying. Yes with small force but the tip was very thin. I also prefer to thin out the grind down to 0.15-0.25(6-10 T) and have a 15 dps edge angle. I did that on my Para 3. It just performs! Lately I have been testing a lot with Victorinox Paring knives...simply because the steel is so easy to grind off by hand. And, tbh, I have improved my cutting technique a lot. because I use those 8-9 dps edges to cut pinewood...so any knot that I don't pay attention to will cause damage.

Love the thin angle with the convex edge. I thought I was the only one who did this, lol. The convex helps support the thin edge really well, making for such a slicey blade 👌💪

It’s always worth a try and if it doesn’t work out it can always go back up . I’ve never gone below 14 degrees per side but usually 17-20 degrees per side works for me personally .

That is a good question! For performance. Have you ever cut a lot of cardboard with an Opinel. They have thin grinds and if you sharpen it to a full height convex they will be a beast when it comes to performance. So why not improve performance on all other knives? Do not missunderstand the title! I realise that it is "clickbait-y" and that is my fault. If you watch the whole video you will realise that I said I think there is nothing wrong with the steel, I have been testing it quite harsh for a long time at this edge angle. It was abuse that made it chip. And I showed the chip. It was so small..in use you can't even notice it. One "return" question: what do you think is a good edge angle for an edc knife? I used to use them at 20 dps, then dropped down gradually...and now, honestly, unless the grind is really thin behind the edge, like 0,2-0,25 mm...i hate having that on an edc knife. I would really like to hear your take on it! And if you disagree...it's fine...i'd really like to know how/for what do you use your edc knife mainly.

@@SpartanJohns The Opinel is intended for a shallow edge. I mostly keep them around or slightly under where the maker intended the angle to be. I’m seeing ridiculous high angles compromising the intended function, like putting 15 degrees on a Benchmade 940 destroying Osbornes complete purpose, not to mention the astetics. I also see people destroying the forward finger choil by grinding away to much material making the choil useless and compromising the finger position. If you want a slicer focused EDC you buy one intended for it. Not horribly rape the designers intention. A shallower edge angle won’t save a blade fat behind the edge to be a great slicer anyway, especially not a v- grind. A hollow grind a little better. That’s it. I toss a different EDC in depending on what I expect to encounter but I normally don’t want a too thin chef’s edge that will chip on me if I hit a staple or nail. 20 is just fine for me. I don’t work with processing cardboard and if I did I would use a box cutter. As is I maybe cut down a box or two a week. My task wary but cutting plastic stripes is common, hose, packaging, cable, stuff in the garden, branches, webbing, line when boating. I don’t want a too thin edge most days. That said I would never put a shallow edge on an opinel. It wouldn’t make sense. I would however not use on as an EDC either

@@martinekstrom6303 I understand your point of view. I don't agree with it, but I understand. You probably do not watch my channel often. I said many times: I don't need a knife in my day to day activities. I just love cutting tools. So I test and lay around with them. I did regrind a 940. Made it 0.2 mm behind the edge and dropped the edge angle to 15 dps. I see the intended purpose of the 940 however I do not need such a knife. But I do like the model. So I adapt it. Same with the Para3. A it comes for my liking the grind it too thick and the handle very uncomfortable. I adapted both! And now I actually like using it. In my opinion, and this is all that it is: my opinion, not the absolute truth, if you spent money on a tool and you like it, you should adapt it to fit your needs. What you said about a shallower edge angle not correcting a thick grind...I agree! It definitely does not. But it can improve its performance. Every time I test something I test it a bit harder than what I would need it to do. When I test edge angles and thicknesses for certain steels I do the same. And if i get low enough that it takes damage with my "normal"(I use " " because like I said...i don't really need to carry a pocket knife) then I scale back, or I convex it or use a microbevel, or adapt my cutting technique. When I do have the opportunity to use a knife, honestly, I can't use thick grinds with 20 dps. In hard woods or plastic i find they slip. There is very little control. That makes the cutting task a chore. My Opinels sit at around 8-10 dps. I like to work wood and if your technique is good, they don't take damage. My "beater" knives sit at 15 dps. If I go thru a stable there will be damage. But I do make a point to watch what I am cutting and adapt. For me this is fun. Like I said in the beginning: I understand your point of view. I appreciate you taking the time! I really enjoyed the conversation. Anytime you want to ask/suggest something please do! BR, Denis

Thank you! Glad you liked it!

It's my fault for making the title to clickbait-y. But I did say in the video that my personal opinion is that there is nothing wrong with the steel or HT. This was user error. I abused a very fine tip with side-to-side movements. Buck is great. No doubt!

I never felt like that. I am looking into getting a couple models in s100v. I really like it. If toughness is what you’re looking for…and if you don’t mind a patina…go for k390. It is amazing!

The tip is fine. Damage was minimal. I sharpened the knife once and while it is not a perfect tip(as it was) you can't feel it in use. What happened, I tried to make happen. I was curious to see if I could damage it. And for what, and how much I did with it I think it actually did well. I am not sure how Magnacut would handle the same situation. recreating the same scenario would be quite difficult. I have a Native 5 Magnacut. I would have to sharpen it many times, drop the edge angle to 12 dps, then strop it back to shaving harp for 5-6 months, then abuse the tip. Maybe that will come naturally. As for the tests you see where people cut thru steel using a knife...they usually have a lot of "behind the scenes". That can mean: large edge angles, micro bevels, the steel cut is annealed, the angle at which the blade is placed is 90 degrees. If you cut steel with steel, damage will occur 99 % of the time. Can you do something about it and improve the conditions? Sure!

@@SpartanJohns yeah when they cut those bolts and chains they used a pretty thick fixed blade knife

It is easy to missundertand the video since I gave it a clickbait title. My bad! I did say in the video that in my opinion there is nothing wrong with the steel ot heat treatment and that I think it was due to the user... "I" being that user

any steel will chip, break, if you abuse it

i am not sure if you watched the whole video...that is what i said...not the exact same words...but the gist of it is: nothing wrong with the steel or HT. it was user error, abuse! I put side tensions on it. I am wondering why nobody mentioned how small the chip was...i mean...i have not watched the video but just by looking at the knife I can hardly see it. The title...my fault...i went to 'clickbait-y'. imo, you should use your tools for whatever you want. BUT if you set up your knife(as in this case) as a fine cutting tool, you should expect damage to occur when you abuse it. as it happened in this case...but the damage was so small...i fear that people just skipped over most of it and, of course, over the parts where i say what i just wrote here

@@SpartanJohns well if you finished my comment, i said I wasn’t talking bout you… Was just adding to what you mentioned Edit: and i did watch the whole video, and i did see the very minuscule amount of chipping that would naturally occur anyway due to the way you use your knife… IE: Razor edges Easy fix Edit2: but yea people choose to see what they want. And thnx for the videos though.

@@sprinkleddonuts6094 i noticed that most people took the video as me complaining about S110V and I just wanted to clarify...in case... i simply realised that my choice for the title was not the best.

@@SpartanJohns no no no, i knew you weren’t complaining at all. But these days people ( knife collectors, some YT guys “EDC” guys ) became snobby with their tools, and more specific, the Steel you “Should” carry. Versus what YOU ( me or anyone ) WANTS to purchase/carry. Super Steel this Super Steel that. I give a fuck really, whether its AUS10a, 9CR18MoV, 8CR14MoV, S30V, S35VN, S45VN, Spy27, CruWear, CPM 20CV, CPM 4V, etc etc etc etc. If it cuts, if it slices, and does what i need my knife to do then hey its great in my book… Like Android and iPhone ohhhh you gotta get iPhone cause Status, or Ohh you gotta get S24 Ultra cause Bragging rights blah blah blah. you were showing your knife S110V Manix2 LW after using it, sharpening it for a Long Time, and shown how it held up. And in comparison to S30V which was very similar.

@@sprinkleddonuts6094 the main thing i want to do is tell people my own experiences. before i had and used certain steels i was a bit influenced by what others said. also, i did notice the ongoing trend to have the newest and best and also the fact that there are a lot of people who don't actually do anything with their knives and repeat conclusions from what other people said. worst part is that those conclusions are watered down versions. the great advantage of steels like S110V and 15V is that they stay sharp for a long time and even when they get dull they do keep a working edge for a ridiculous amount of time. but people have to find flaws so they go to: it's difficult to sharpen or it's brittle. which, to some extent is true but the differences in sharpening are minor if you use even medium quality diamond abrasives and the difference in toughness(considering that knives are fine cutting tools) can be negligible. I am not trying to give the wrong impression. This is why I made so many videos about it. In the next video i will add all the links in the description also the videos which are unlisted. simply because I want other to not be afraid of a trying a great steel