CPM s110v carbon-2.80 chromium 14.00 vanadium 9.00 molybdenum 3.50 niobium 3.50 cobalt 2.00 also Silicon carbide and aluminum oxide abrasives can sharpen it but no Noveculite (Arkansas)
Wow bravo! I think I've watched all your vids. you where the first I learned how to sharpen on water stones from. your knowledge on steel is unbelievable. I'm working my way up there. picked up this knife about a month ago i really like it and The action on the para 2 just put a smile on my face to play with it.
Hi Shaun, it's relatively easy to reach 62-66HRC with s90v: ".. the two heat treating relatively similarly. Both are capable of very high levels of hardness." Keep up the good work. Regards.
Great review had everything a bit of a steel geek out, with regards to steel geek out I have a few questions about the tool steels we are seeing in knives now I'll find some examples and make another post
how in the world did you get your smarts on steel! all i no is S110V seems to stay sharper then most others,i have this PM2 with some others in this same steel,its no wonder why they call it a supper steel! holds a edge forever,grate video,thank you.
I own two of them. One im keeping in box starting my collection next to my mocrotech halo V I blue and one just opened. I just started collecting about a month ago. So stoked to get some more knives. Next is a Medford tool Praetorians etc then a Chris Reeve knifes etc and hopefully a custom marfione. I almost feel bad paying gun prices for knives but I LOVE blades and knives and it’s hard to decide sometimes.
I have the manix 2 in 110v...I've been abusing the knife and I 100% agree with your observations. However, I rolled the edge close to the ricasso. I'm no metallurgist but I assumed it would "chip" before it rolled the edge...strange. I'm glad I watched your video because I probably would have worn out my stones trying to put a razor edge back on it.
Well, I guess I chose the perfect steel for breaking down cardboard when I got myself a para 3 s110v. What’s your favourite fancy steel for wood carving though?
For wood carving 1.2562 or simple carbon steels are awesome. Although I’ve never used 1.2562😂 it’s similar to the f series of steels that are favored for fine edged tools.
Definitely agree with needing the course finish. Put a complete mirror on this knife and shaved my face with it cause why not. But it lost that edge quick and just felt really dull. I think it's cause I had it to polished and the edge couldn't brake down properly. But with a toothy edge seems to hold that aggressive edge much much longer
I find that s110v doesn’t break down into a toothy edge, it just blunts. M4 and hap40 I have found have that attribute. Maybe the way I sharpen. I don’t put a toothy edge on it generally.
Great TOOL knife but a bit to large for EDC. You know as soon as you hold this knife that it's a tool and not a gentleman's knife. Always liked the color of this spyderco it's unique, my only complaint would be the g10 handles although very strong and durable they tend to get stuck in the pockets and make it a bit difficult to pull out and over time they tear apart your jeans. Other then that it's one of the sharpest right out of the box knives I've ever owned.
I’ve edc’ed my s30v version for nearly 4 years. Liked it so much that I now have a S35vn one and looking for maybe M4 or Rex45. But it’s all subjective. 😉
@@josephpagee3977 I got the blue g10 s110v but it's a little to much knife for edc so I keep it on reserve for special occasions, I usually carry around my native 5 also in s110 and when I'm working I carry the chaparral with carbon fiber scales.
Are you a metallurgist, a PhD in steel? I've never heard someone so well informed re steel. I am impressed. My PM2 on s110v is in the mail, probably come Thur or Fri. Great video, I subscribed.
@@kfach123 i got it and it's everything he said in the video. It's my user knife for everyday tasks and cutting manmade materials and it doesn't mind neglect from lack of sharpening or moisture. For specific tasks like woodcraft and stuff i need a really razor sharp knife for i usually just use another knife since this is always in some stage of dullness from frequent use and i can't keep up with sharpening but in general it's just a great knife to have and to get the job done with the really persistent working edge. That's where it really shines, it does get really sharp but so do steels that are easier to sharpen. However those get dull while this one just turns into some sort of sawblade like Flintstone and keeps cutting
@@robinpohl2702 how would you say the toughness is? I'm twitching over the trigger on one of these and a cruwear but never used either steel and I'm worried that they are brittle. I use my knives a lot and don't baby them, so i don't want to spend all that money and snap the tips off within a week lol
@@MDM1992 sorry wanted to reply but forgot, just looked at it again while taking a dump and remembered your comment. Idk about toughness, I'm not that big of a hard ass with my knives. I didn't snap the tip yet and i didn't get any nicks that didn't sharpen out right away. This steel will chip rather than roll in my estimation, at least i figured that's the reason why it won't respond to stropping as well. I used it to whittle a bit there's always some slight fuddling with the tip, cut a bunch of PVC lining to protect our houses foundation from the elements. But in the end it's basically my everyday opening and cardboard knife. I hit plenty of industrial size copper staples on my car parts and probably also some regular steel tacks. Sometimes dulled a bit or left very little nicks but sharpened right out. Somebody split a penny with it too i think. It's not the toughest among the steels but it is still very much steel and it's heat treated properly so you probably won't break it unless you try. Only thing i would recommend is sharpen it right after you get it. In my experience the factory edge on high end steels seems to easily tear out or chip in real work because it's very rough and that's just more work and more steel wasted to get that out. So enjoy slicing some paper with the very agressive and sharp edge but then polish it a bit. My angle is pretty low, maybe 13-15 degrees maybe lower, i just go lower with every sharpening till it gets too unstable for my taste and then go back a bit and keep the angle. So in conclusion I've had this for 4 years now and it's done anything all my other knives do so it's very much usable. Cruwear is probably tougher idk i haven't kept up lately, dutch bushcraft knives tested both steels tho so maybe check out their videos. Oh yeah and i forgot, i stabbed stacks of cut cardboard with it too which is a pretty dumb thing with a knife like this just to see how much i could penetrate, i was somewhat careful to jab it straight but i did it repeatedly and it did totally fine
@@MDM1992 honestly Edge retention and supersteels are a meme. My favourite is still my swiss army knife, cutting performance is slightly lower than the pm 2 is overkill anyways and it doesn't offer all the extra functions. I don't regret buying it, i got it from my first real paycheck when i had not many expenses and wanted something nice, was also cheaper then. The difference as a tool really isn't that big, it's just a little nicer. So yeah, if you want it and can afford it get it but it's really not the best value you can get imo. In fact it's probably the most expensive knife i would still consider useful as a knife. Its Neat but people are being sold pretty expensive knives on most channels
BM510 is right, you guys. Sawtooth edges have been shown to be demonstrably superior. That's why axes traditionally feature a prominent sawtooth edge. Now where did I leave my tinfoil hat and flame retardant pajamas?
Solid vid. Not a fan of the shape profile of the PM2; although it has the typical Spyderco contouring for a pocket-folding knife cutting ability-it's ugly. I went with the Manix 2 in S110V and Maxamet. I trust S110V for long term use and sharpening over Maxamet. Maxamet reviews are so mixed in contrast to S110V.
Hey Big Brown Bear! I'm considering buying this knife, the only sharpening tool that I have happens to be the worksharp that is on your desk in the video, is that sufficient for doing what needs to be done to the blade or do you use something else? Thank you! great video, I'm very convinced on this knife because of it!
Great vid , can you give me a explanation of how you actually sharpen and maintain this blade steel and if a microbevel would be good and if so shall I keep the microbevel the same git as main bevel (like 1000grit?) And also how should s30v be sharpened polished or like this s110v , can’t find a simple explanation anywhere!! Cheers Zac.
zac white Sharpening is the same as any steel only it takes a little longer to do it. Diamond abrasives will speed things up. Just take time and care. Here’s a comparison : S110V will sharpen quicker on diamonds than A2 will on a non-diamond abrasive.
I'm new to all these blades steels, but is the s110v blade more durable and corrosion resistant than the DLC s30v in the PM2 models? Also, which steel would you recommend (s110v or DLC s30v) for an EDC work knife? Thanks.
+Carlo S they both have decent corrosion resistance I've never had to oil either steel just wiped dry before storing. Salt water might cause problems. The dlc coating is mostly for looks Durable? I would not pry with either the blade is to hard and thin but that makes it a badass cutter S30v should be tougher at the edge Less likely to chip But s110v will keep cutting longer What would I recommend? Hmm It's a matter of preference Do you sharpen?
Nope.. but I plan to learn. I've just started to really get into knives and just ordered a PM2 DLC (black handle/black blade) that I plan to carry at work to tear up boxes (I go through tons of the stuff). Though, after watching your vid, I'm considering getting the s110v to 'alternate' carry between the s30v and the s110v at work. Thanks for your comments.
I got the PM2 and the PM from Spyderco. Both are my favorite knifes when it comes to finer sliceing tasks, even for EDC use. For outdoors I like to use knifes with stronger blades. I love to play with the compression lock at PM2 :-) Gruß aus Deutschland :-)
hey shaun, yes you are right. these knives are expensive in germany. I own both models in digicamo version, PM2 with a bright blade wasn´t so expensive as the PM with black blade. I payed for the PM2 about 140Euro and for the PM about 210Euro. Both come with S30V steel. The blue PM2 with CPM S110V steel costs about 240Euro here in Germany. Was kosten die Modelle in den USA? Du lebst doch in den USA, oder? Gruß aus Deutschland Torsten
How could I be? It was 2016, I wasn't making knives yet. There was no 15v to try in a production knife that was available in 2016. The forum thread starts with my first experience with the steel and how it piques my interest on the first post of the thread, you get to see how my love and Interest for the steel grows organically in that thread as I uncover it's potential. Makes me feel like you aren't reading the thread. Attention to detail is key.
I'm just curious... you say you prefer lower carbide steels for polishing to a razor edge on a strop. I know plenty of steels that fit the category, but would you mind listing some of your favorites on that end of the spectrum?
Thanks for the quick response. I'm currently reconfiguring my carry and tool bag knife setups, and am looking at both extreme ends of the spectrums. After all, everything is a compromise. Different steels for different tasks. I'd already have ordered the blurple PM2, but some part of me really wants to own an EnZo Birk 75, and... I'm not even entirely sure why. I guess I'm somewhat opposed to "tactical" blades for the shock factor in certain circles when you pull out an aggressive looking knife.
Yeah, that's sorta the idea. I tried to go for a "balance" steel in all of my knives and only use blade geometry to force it into different roles because I was young, stupid, and cheap. That, and it helped me understand those things through reduced variables. I mostly have 1095 and D2 blades. You can get a lot done that way, but if I can afford to add in the right steel per task that's the new goal. I need my anvil back, though, if I'm gonna try 52100 on anything. Finding that in flat stock is rare.
I've understood proper angles for the job, and toughness vs strength type concerns for quite a while now. I've only recently come to a better understanding of dull working edge carbide complexities. Grain size/structure, and all that.
the both are very similar in those categories, the s110v was more corrosion resistant in my exp. but thats not saying m390 is not. Resistance to Chipping? both are similar, your edge geometry and use will ultimately be what determines that. 25 degrees per side can make any knife tough hahaha
I just love the s110v pm2 i bought it to get rid of my obsession to hone and maintain my edc knife in razor sharpness, you just don't do that with s110v, i use it for ever and when it doesn't cut thru phone book paper it's time for resharpening, I've read on forums that Sal glesser maintains his s110v whit the sharpmaker, (brown rods from my understanding) and im sure it works as for sharpening the steel but not really the carbides, which results in not optimal sharpness, im a steel geek so everything needs to be done in the optimum way 😂
How would you recc I sharpen this steel? super polished sharp or just toothy sharp? I have a KME to can do the same exact angles. Jut wondered which was better for this steel.
Polished toothy, you want to maximize the potential of all those vanadium carbides rather the polishing them out. I'd go 300-600 to a burr and then deburr at 1000-3000 grit range. Then Strop at 1 micron diamond or cbn or higher
Big Brown Guy I shall try that! I also saw that the angles were at like 19* each side. If the steel is so strong I should be able to drop that some wouldnt you think? Even 15* each side could help.
Yup just remember mirror polished edges are beautiful and very sharp but they significantly reduce the edge retention, also the steel has to be in the 60s hrc and have a fine grain fine carbide structure to really take advantage of that finish. Don't get me wrong, all steel can get sharper then we can possibly sharpen them to. It just that some steels with certain heat treatments have certain attributes that enhance there potential for different edge finishes. In laymans terms, just sharpens better or holds a certain edge better.
+Billthesheepdog its really user dependent. I keep all my knives at about 15ish. For some dudes, it's just not durable enough for how the use their knives so they have to adjust to a higher angle.
Hi BBG. Thanks for the detailed video. I am subbed up. I am hoping to sharpen my new "purple rain" PM2 in s110v with a Spyderco Sharpmaker that I have on order. As you probably know, it comes with medium and fine rods, but I can also obtain the coarse diamond and ultra-fine ceramic rods. I'd like to have your guidance on which ceramic rods/grits, angles or other procedure relating to this knife and this sharpening system. And anyone else with experience with this knife and sharpener, please chime in. Thank you!
+Frank Martin id order the diamond or cbn rods as a must. Either one, I couldn't tell ya the difference between them besides some material science gibberish. Skip the medium rods Then use the fine rods. Skip the extra fine rods Put that money towards a strop with a 1micron diamond spray or emulsion
Yup, sharpen, reprofiling, repairs with the diamond Honing and deburring with the fine ceramic And if you excute everything properly And have a hair shaving edge from the previous steps The strop with the compound makes a screaming sharp edge.
YES, YES, TRUE UNOBTANIUM, NO DOUBT - SAD THING IS, IN REALITY TOO MUCH CARBON EQUATES TO CHIPPING! S110V IS A CHIPADEEDODA, IF YOU WANT A CHIPPERZEEDOO, THEN S110V IS FOR YOU!
I absolutely hate this steel, and crucible chart about it is such a big fat lie... Its "more corrosive resistant than s30v/s90v"... IF ITS PUT IN A HIGH TEMP SOAK SO THAT ALL THE CHROMIUM AND VANADIUM FLOATS FREE IN THE ALLOY, not in carbide form... But they sure as hell don't tell you how they got those values. Like any knife maker will ever heat treat it like that in the first place. On top of it, with a spot on heat treat and a shallow geometry, it microchips like crazy, even more than s125v. I had the blade of my Manix 2 rehardened by a professional from my country, still the same results. My Kershaw Shallot, same problem even after rehardening and tests done to the steel structure to see if something was wrong, so it was definitely not the batch. I'll stick to S90V or 10V for slicers.
A sawtooth edge, exactly what is exhibited in S110v, is WAY more functional than any polished edge. The hype over polished edges is nothing but that: hype. Ever tried to cut something with a mirror polished edge? 90% of materials cut terribly that way. There's a reason saw blades aren't smooth.
There are advantages to toothy edges in some applications. This is exhibited plainly in some steels being favoured specifically for developing toothy edges as they wear, and thereby extending the useful life of the edge. That said, the way some people universally criticize polished edges makes no sense. For *many* applications, using many steels polished edges perform extremely well. A lot of the logic being applied just isn’t applicable. Like the saw example. Saws have saw teeth because they are designed to saw. The tooth design depends on the material. Take a wood saw for example. The relatively large teeth found in most basic wood saws are used for several reasons. Firstly wood is a very fiberous material and by cross cutting with a toothy saw you can essentially tear out pieces of wood. Next the teeth serve to move the sawdust out of the cut and away from the cutting path to expedite cutting and deter binding. None of these factors weigh in for the majority of basic cutting tasks. Especially those requiring precision. If they did most pocket knife blades would be serrated. Precision and smoothness of cut are preferable when using a folding knife. Especially since most required task don’t involve extremely hard materials or very deep cuts where the blade would be surrounded by the remaining stock. All that said, different edges for different uses. I wouldn’t fault someone for preferring tooth, but I do find it irking when a very highly finished edge gets dismissed as solely aesthetic. They can be incredibly effective cutters.
