Someone might not even notice these repaired leads if they were repairing the board in the future. I like how you made sure the new leads were naturally pressed against the old ones on the IC, so it wasn't just the solder holding them together.
Hi . Thank you . These are 2 methods I've used a lot over the years and they really are secure and smart solutions . So hopefully lots of other people try them and achieve good results. Thank you again , your comments are always welcome.
I have said it once and I'll say it again. You are one of the best that I have seen on youtube. I dont think most people know how hard this is to get right. Yeah some may be able to make a connection work, but getting it right is a whole other story. Very well done sir!
Hi , thank you for your comment, and your support of my channel , much appreciated. If my videos help anyone out it's a bonus , all I can do is try. Thanks again , take care 👍
These videos are great! At one time, seeing boards and ICs with the damage shown would mean the board or IC is destroyed and beyond repair. Definitely helps when you're doing repairs because you can't afford to replace the item that's damaged.
Hi , thank you for your comment. Some people have questioned me on why bother fixing an IC , why not just buy a replacement. I explain to them that some IC's are obsolete or the code that's programmed into them is unavailable anymore. That's why I wanted to make this video to help people restore their rare IC's. Thanks again for all your support , take care 👍
Hi , thank you for your comment . Im glad you find the videos of use , I have plenty more to post in the future so hopefully you will watch them as well .Thanks for your support 👍
Fantastic videos! I am bench-watching them at the moment. One small detail is that your music is very loud, I mean it sounds as if 4 x volume compared to you speaking. :-)
Hi . Thank you for watching . I've now sorted the music volume issue out . My last 2 or 3 videos you should notice it's a lot more matched to my speaking volume , I have new stuff that I film with . Hopefully you still found them ok to watch. Thanks again , much appreciated ,👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 I have found your skill, teaching, filming and yes about everything really great and entertaining:-) I am sorry for commenting on these details but I think it's maybe a workplace-related injury, too many years in the TV and radio broadcasting industry may have left something:-)
Hi . I just appreciate people who watch and comment on my video's . I will be posting more sometime soon ( I'm just busy at the moment , that's why I haven't posted any for a few weeks ) so hopefully they will be helpful to people as well . Thank you for your time 👍
My thoughts exactly!! I have head phones on and your voice is very low so I turned it up full blast and nearly blew my ear drums out my arse! Lmao Great video saved my arse. 😁☮️
Hi . Thank you for your comment . Yeah I knew about this but not until after I'd posted some of the earlier videos. I then took over the editing myself ( probably about the last 15 videos ( and all future ones to come ) and have corrected this by trying to match music and my voice to the same levels . At least the music kept you from falling asleep during the video 😂 Thanks for watching , take care 👍
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , very much appreciated . I'm glad you enjoyed the video , I will post another one soon showing similar methods as my camera etc is a lot better nowadays for clearer sound and images . Thanks again , take care 👍
Thanks for a nice useful video. A third method I had seen somewhere was to use a Dremel tool, and make a small via on top of the pin which may not be showing much copper, i.e. baring some copper. If you get the chance, it might benefit us, your viewers, to learn from you how to do that. The methodology is needed for restoring retro computers where some of the ICs are not manufactured anymore.
Hi . Thank you . I've not tried the Dremel method but I guess it's an option if someone else has done it successfully. I will have a look sometime and maybe I can try it myself one day . Thanks for letting me know about this method 👍
Hi . Thank you for watching , its much appreciated. I'm glad you enjoyed the video and hopefully you can pick up some tips . I will keep posting more videos in the near future . Thanks again. 👍
Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated. Since this video I've learnt how to get better sound and picture clarity so my videos have improved over time . I'm glad you still enjoyed it though . Thanks again , take care 👍
Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated. We can all improve with practice and with practice comes steadier hands . Hopefully my videos can help a small part in people getting steadier . If they do then I'm very happy . Thanks again , take care 👍
Hi , thank you for watching the videos , much appreciated. I'm glad you enjoy them , I will post more videos when i get some time . Good luck with all your soldering projects and thanks again 👍
Hi . Thank you . I've now worked out how to turn the music down to match the volume of my voice so my last couple of video's and future ones will not affect your ear drums 👂👂Thanks again for your comment 👍
Hi . Thank you , I'm glad you enjoyed the video . I've used these fixes on a fair few IC's and they really do work well , so hopefully this might save a few peoples obsolete IC's . Thanks again , much appreciated 👍
Hi , thank you for your comment . In this video I used the inside core of Kynar wire which is a 30 gauge wire . I just try and match the width of the pin with suitable wire . For example if you have a through hole resistor lead and it matches your IC pin width I would use that if I could . Lots of different options . Thanks again 👍
Hi . Thank you. All my video's are filmed using a phone camera , maybe that's why you can hear background noise , but no one else has ever mentioned this . I don't have a camera on my microscope , as I personally think you get better camera angles with the phone next to the work taking place , so obviously I'm using the phone microphone for the sound. Thanks again 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 I think he's referring to your voice being a 3/10 volume and the music during cuts is like an 11/10 volume, it's _really_ jarring. Great video otherwise though-thanks!
Nice work, @ 3.52 Was there a reason you repaired all 6 leads? As leads 12, 13, 15 and 16 are attached to connection pads and leads 11 and 14 are attached to anchor pads (no connection tracks on PCB) or was it purely for aesthetic reason?
Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated. I just always try and fix everything if I can , it's just my way , so in this case even though some of these pins may not be connected to other points I was always going to fix all 6 of them , plus the viewer can see what you can achieve more clearly . Hopefully that's ok , thanks again for watching my channel 👍
Hi . Not really sure . I was handed it like this . I guess something had banged into it from the side , maybe when it was taken out of a unit somewhere. I've seen a few damaged IC's like this in my time doing PCB's , so not the first one I've had to fix. 👍
Congratulations on the technique and explanations. It is truly a "virtuoso" execution of soldering. Please tell, whats flux do you use? Thanck you. Regards.
Hi . Thank you . I just like to share what I've learnt over the years and hopefully it will help a few people along the way solve their problems. I'm sorry s couple of bits got blocked by my hand but I've done a clearer pin replacement in my other posting ( IC pin , trace and pad damage ) .The flux I use is called SMFL200D .Thank you for watching the video , it's much appreciated 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 Is that the flux that comes in an aerosol can? Do you use a straw like a can of WD-40 or does it come in a brush-on form? I'd like to get hold of a decent flux with a little brush. My flux pen is useless.
Hi . Yes it does come in a aerosol can , but I simply spray a small amount into a small container and use a dipped plastic cable tie to apply it . The best method I've ever used . I've just posted a video on RU-vid showing how to use this flux . It will answer all your questions . Thank you for watching, much appreciated 👍
Hi . Thank you for your comment , much appreciated. Sorry my hand blocked a small amount of the video . I've shown these bits clearly in another video I've done ( repairing traces , pads + IC pins ) Thanks again for watching 👍
Hi . Thank you , glad you enjoyed the video . Sorry my hand blocked a couple of parts but if needed I show these clearly in one of my other postings ( pad , trace + IC pin repair). Thanks again , much appreciated 👍
i would like to repair a pokemon game that has a broken off pin what kind of wire would i use to repair it or do i need something specific please i would like some advice
Hi , thank you for your comment. I'm not sure on this one but If it was my project I would still fit it , the only worry being is if the particular pin that is missing is needed to connect with the PCB. Some IC's not all pins are connected externally so they will still work if the right pin is missing . You could always type your IC type into the search bar at Farnell , RS Components , Digikey or Mouser and get a datasheet up . The chip info is all shown there about the circuitry of the IC . You may be lucky your missing pin is not needed. Good luck , thanks again
Hi , just go into the sites I mentioned and type your part into the search bar of any of them , scroll down when the part comes up until you hit datasheet . Some data sheets have many pages but slowly go through them and you will find the inside connections of the IC . This will help show you what you need to do , if anything , good luck , take care 👍
Hi . Thank you . These 2 methods really work as long as you have a little copper showing from the IC body to attach to . Like I say in the video you can carefully scratch a small amount of the body away to expose more if you need it.The link wire method is shown really clearly in my ( damaged pads , traces + IC pin video ) good luck 🙂
Hi . Thank you . Really appreciate the fact you found the video's useful. Like I said earlier they really are great methods and with practise you can get them to look invisible almost . Thanks again 👍
Hi . Thank you . I'm sorry my hand blocked the view in a couple of bits , but I've done a clearer version of pin replacement in another video ( IC pin , traces and pad damage ) . Thanks again for your support , much appreciated 👍
Hi . Thank you for your comment . I'm glad you enjoy the videos , this is why I like making them , hopefully I can help a few people . Thank you for your support much appreciated 👍
Tip: I you can use a thinner and more mallible wire, wait until you've soldered both joints before cutting or breaking off the excess. With such a tiny piece already cut, all the thermal energy dumped into it by the iron has nowhere to go. This is why your 1st solder joint almost instantly melts when you go to do the 2nd joint. If you keep the wire relatively long until both joints are done, there will be much more material to soak and spread the heat, and your 1st joint won't melt and potentially move as easily. If dealing with longer jumper wires, a little UV cure solder mask over the wire right by the joints will hold it in place even if the solder melts. This is really handy if your jumper wire aims to replace a torn pad, or you're doing multiple wires in a really cramped space where you keep bumping into the precious jumpers and melting their solder so they move around on you. Just be light on the amount used, you don't need a thick layer to hold s jumper down. Thick layers and big blobs of UV cure solder masks, won't actually cure through either, they stay liquid under a cured shell. This os because as the solder mask cures, its surface goes from glossy transparent to opaque. Then the UV light can't reach the inner volume of liquid, so it stays liquid and uncured under a thin shell, like an egg.
Hi . I just find it pretty easy the way I do it , as long as your pretty quick . It's a much neater way of doing it than the way you suggest ( which I have seen other people do on RU-vid videos ) . I just think people should try my way , I think they will get there in the end , and will love the results.
Hi . Thank you . I'm sorry my hand blocked a couple of shots ( I've learnt since then ) but ive done a clearer version of these parts in another posting ( pad , trace + IC pin damage ) . Thank you for watching, very much appreciated 👍
Hi . I presume the mean the flux residue after Soldering ? If so the fluid I use is called Ultrasolve , it's a great PCB cleaning fluid and is the recommended fluid to clean off the flux I use. Available from Farnell, RS Components , Rapid Online and other electronic distributers. I will post a video about this and the cleaning cloths I use very soon. Hope that helps , thank you 👍
Hi . Thank you for your nice comment , much appreciated. I'm sorry my hand blocked part of the video where I fitted the wire link but I have done a clearer version of this part in my ( Fixing IC pins, traces and pads video ) . I'm glad you enjoyed it and they really are great methods . Thanks again 👍
Hi . I don't get your question . I never drilled the IC case at the top end of the pin . All I explain is if you need to see a tiny bit more of the copper pin in the upper body all you have to do is carefully scrape back the IC material with a scalpel until you have enough copper exposed to solder to . No drilling has been mentioned or is done in this type of repair . Hope that clears it up . Thanks 👍
Hi . Thank you for your comment much appreciated. If you feel the legs are still going to be ok then by all means you can try and save them . I just wanted to show a couple of solutions for possible fixes you might need. Thanks again for watching 👍
ty for video, but the loud sound at start and at end really hurt ears if you are using headset. because your voice is low I had to turn it up and then got a shock in middle, and at at end got shock of super loud music and couldn't turn it down fast enough. would be better if music was lower level so it didn't burst out into ears. since it is not at same level or lower than your voice.
Hi , this sound problem has been sorted now , probably about my last 10 videos are ok . The voice and music are now at the same level ( different editing tool used ) , thank you for your comment 👍
Hi , thank you for your comment. In my early videos I didn't do my own editing so the music is a lot louder than the talking ( sorry ) , but for roughly my last 20 videos I've now taken this over and have corrected this issue so they are now equal . Hopefully you still enjoyed it . Thanks again , take care 👍
Why can you not adjust the volume of your voice correctly? audio volume is so low and commercials and other things and other videos have much higher volume. the problem is that iit hurt in the ear when it comes to advertising and othr things!
Hi , I've sorted this problem out on my last 3 or 4 videos ( I'm not an editing expert ) so on my earlier videos they were done with different cameras etc , but now I know what I'm doing as I have better recording tools. Thanks.
I have just subscribed your channel. Good interesting content for me. Can you please suggest a good microscope for me to repair these kind of small SMD components at home?
Hi . Thanks for watching the video , much appreciated. I use a stereo long reach scope as you can fit pretty much any size board under these types of scopes . All my filming is actually done using a macro lens attached to my phone camera. I purchased my scope from a company in England called GT Vision . Obviously there are loads of different price bands so maybe check them out . Also I'm sure there will be some good second hand ones available somewhere. Good luck and thanks again 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 Thanks for the reply. And very interesting to know were filming macro lens attached to mobile and that method suits my requirement. Would you mind to give me any link or model name to that macro lens pls?
Hi , thank you for your comment. This audio problem has long been sorted , probably my last 35 videos have lower music and higher audio so they match perfectly . I was learning my editing long ago and took me a while to get it right . Hope that answers this ok 👍
Hi , I mention in the video that if you have little or no copper showing you can gently scrape back the body of the IC around the pin you need to work on to expose an amount of buried pin to enable you to fix a doner leg to this. The workings of the IC are deeper in the ic than this point so this is a safe option if needed . Hope that helps 👍
Great video! I didn't know one could do this without damaging the plastic package or the wires that connect the leads to the IC. I'm going to try this when I get my hands on a broken IC!
Hi . Thank you. I've used both of these methods a few times and there both great . You can scrape a small amount of the body back without damaging the IC inside just so you expose enough copper to join the new pin to . I actually show the Kynar wire one a lot clearer in my video ( traces , pads + IC PIN repair ) as I know my hand blocked some of this video. Just make sure the new pin is same thickness as the original . Good luck and thanks again 👍
Excellent content for a highly skilled individual that makes this look all too easy - which is the hallmark of a true master.... and he uses a conical tip too!
Hi . Thank you . There are other ways of fixing these but to me these are the 2 neatest and safest ways , and with practice they can be done . A few people have said why bother , just fit a new IC . But simple answer is if you have an old obsolete IC with a unique program in it then you may be stuck without this option . Thanks again 👍
Hi . The general temperature of my iron is between 350 degrees and 370 degrees centigrade. I sometimes change the size of the tip if I need a bigger hear spread. I use a conical tip mainly in my Weller iron for small fine pitch joints ( PTP7 ) or a large flat sided one for much larger joints ( DD8 ). Hope that helps 👍
You're a supposed to clean it regularly. Get a brass pot scrubber and poke your soldering tip into it while soldering, whenever the tip starts getting crud on it.
Hi . Thank you for your nice comment . I noticed my hand slightly blocked a tiny part of the wire link cutting method , but how to do this stage all explained later in the video . Also this wire link stage is shown REALLY clearly in my repairing pads , traces + IC pin video. Thanks again.
Hi . Thank you , your comment is very much appreciated . I do use a microscope for most of my small detail work , but not for anything of a reasonable size . It's amazing what you can see under a scope. The wire cutting part in this video is shown much clearer in my( pads , traces + IC pin video). Thanks again 👍
Hi . The word you would have heard was "Kynar" . This is a very small sleeved wire , normally 30 gauge . I used the wire core from the centre of this wire to do one of these leg repairs as it matched the leg thickness perfectly , which is very important. You will see Kynar wire being used to do lots of pcb modification work , in fact Ive done a posting showing Kynar mods. Hope that clears that up . 👍
Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated . The 3 pins I fixed with wire were done with 30 gauge Kynar wire , easily found on the internet . I normally try and match the original thickness of the damaged pins if I can . Or otherwise if you have scrap pcb's around use donor pins from other IC's which I've also done in this video . Hope that helps , thanks again 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 thank you I have one more question I ripped some of the little circles on the board I’m not sure what they are called lol. Can I replace them with copper ?
Hi , definitely, they are made of copper . If you can get some copper tape and shape what you need , fine strands of copper wire from old scrap cables or lift old pads from scrap boards , there is a few alternatives. Or you could use fine tin / copper wire if you can get that . Hope that helps , thanks for your support , take care 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 would you recommend the thick tape like duct tape looking or the real thin one ? I was removing an ext Port and completely destroyed them
Hi . In my experience when IC's have burned out it means they are beyond repair . Fixing legs back on like I show in this video is a totally different matter as the internals of the IC's will still be ok . Hope that helps , thanks for watching 👍
Most IC's can be replaced with the exact same type as long as you know what it is , but in some cases you will have pre-programmed IC's on your boards so if your replacing them they will also need the same information programmed into them ( can be done on or off the board ) in certain cases. Hope that helps 👍
Hi , thank you for your comment . I just wanted to show people they can save their important IC's , especially if they have an obselete one . It can be done , thanks again 👍
Hi . Thank you . I'm sorry my hand blocked a couple of shots ( I was learning filming at that stage ) but I've done another pin replacement in one of my other postings ( pad , trace + IC pin damage ) thanks again much appreciated 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 Yeah no problem at all I was listening all the way through the video visually the fix in my head. I have done a similar fixes like that just using a small magnifying glass with less than .8mm soldering tip and a steady hand plus patience :)
Hi . I cleaned the IC with Ultrasolve ( in my opinion the best cleaning fluid for PCB's ) applied with a very fine brush in a downward motion . This has no stress at all on the joints as I'm not going across them , I also don't apply any excess downward pressure. With Ultrasolve you can dissolve any small amounts left over by blowing gently with a hair dryer as it evaporates in heat. A great safe method .
Ultrasolve is a PCB cleaning fluid . It's the recommended partner for the flux I use SMFL200D. You will see me using cleaning cloths dipped in Ultrasolve in some of my video's . It gives amazing results when used correctly. Hope that helps 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 Oh, missunderstanding , I thought you melt some part of plastic case of IC to strip the pins! Because I can see some change before and after...
Hi . Sorry I don't understand your question . To expose the copper inside the IC body so you can solder a new lead to it I just carefully scrape back some of the body until I have enough exposed copper to achieve a good sound joint . After soldering , when obviously there is flux on the body and joint , I then clean off as I previously mentioned . There is no melting of anything , this is what I don't understand about your comment . Obviously once the Ultrasolve has removed all the flux things will look different , i.e it is amazingly clean , nothing else . Ultrasolve is so safe for IC's . Hope that clears up your confusion 👍
