IFSC Worldcup Brixen 2022 - The route setting process #3

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IFSC Worldcup in Brixen 2022 - The route setting process #3
climb-holds.com sent Niki down to Brixen and he covered (almost) everything what's going on while setting, tweaking, testing on the setting days, pre comp and at the comp.
www.climb-holds.com - #onestopshop for climb holds, macros & volumes
Special thanks to the phenomenal, fun & awesome setting team:
Marcin Wszolek | IFSC Head setter | marcin_wszolek_
Matthieu Dutray | IFSC setter | matthieudutray
Tsukuru Hori | IFSC junior setter | tsukuru_8611
Stefan Scarperi | stefanscarperi
Marko Erspamer | kirsch_climbing
Riccardo Caprasecca | riccardocaprasecca
Hannes Mantinger | hannesmantinger
Jeremy Lemau | jeremy_lemau
For more: bit.ly/2HWJ5uh
If you want to support Niki please consider to become a Patreon so i can do more Videos like this: / heldniklas
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QUESTION - Have a question about Bouldering, Climbing, Route Setting, Technique, filming or Anything Else? Post in comments section of this video!
Beta Routesetting on Social Media:
/ betaroutesetting
/ betarouteset. .

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Опубликовано:

6 авг 2022

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Комментарии : 65

@BetaRoutesetting 2 года назад

Your feedback please: chronological edit of all rounds or just a few chosen boulders in singular episodes? en joy the summer

@jissse3867 2 года назад

Even if this video is really good (and obviously took you a lot of time), I think it's more interesting seeing more boulders than focus on a single one. The process like shown above is very interesting, and maybe it's something you can keep for some "special" boulders you really like, but I find it nice to see the setters work on a lot of different styles and see how they approach the competition on a global scale ! Thank you for all your work !

@dutch12345678910 2 года назад

Seeing competitors and the resulting scores on the boulders on it was a very welcome addition. Perhaps a round based, with maybe a brief screen of tops/zones and a most interesting "intended" beta + most different beta if footage is available?

@xavierx93 2 года назад

This format is good. Focus on 1 boulder while showing athletes try it. Really puts into perspective how different athletes try to solve the problem or beta break it

@driesdebie3021 2 года назад

I like this format a lot more. Definitely with the performance of the athletes and the results at the end. I also prefer the length of the video. Anyway, I appreciate the effort you have put into these! Keep it up ;)

@matteheads 2 года назад

Amazing video Niki, would love to see more. Appreciate the time you took to put this together.

@rafaelmarthae6913 2 года назад

obviously, they didn't have competition pressure on them and knew beta, but wow some of those IFSC routesetters are strong.

@lovricsports 2 года назад

What an awesome video!! The best addition to this was to see the athletes try the boulders + the results in the end, if it's possible to keep that way that is so great to watch. For me I like watching both just 1 boulder or a few of them, seeing the athletes try it after you finished your work is what makes it so great to me. Thanks for the cool video keep it up :)

@patrickrolandjenkins Год назад

I agree 100%

@Skuffin 2 года назад

Loved seeing the athletes trying the boulder at the end. If you keep that in I don't think it's as important if it's just one boulder or a few ones. It really shows off the result of the whole process and the strength of the setters and competitors. It must be so incredibly hard to set boulders that are nice to watch, climb and are of the perfect difficulty. Without seeing the competitors it's hard to judge and appreciate all that.

@MikeSoChill 2 года назад

Seeing all the climbers on the boulder at the end was really cool!

@hanneswalter5884 2 года назад

Nice Video. I personally enjoy this concept of chronologically following the creation of a boulder up to its send. More of that would be appreciated 🙂

@vandergulden 2 года назад

I would love to see the setters reaction on the amount of tops etc. Good video! I enjoyed it a lot.

@BetaRoutesetting Год назад

we had a bet going on about the tops and attempts and rounds... let me check with marco if the piece of paper is still alive ;)

@zeitfrei Год назад

I told you so Nikki San! Great job my friend 🫶🏻

@jerryshine3106 2 года назад

Great, great, great video. Loved seeing the setters on the one boulder and then the climbers on it. Thanks!

@sigmastodon 2 года назад

Once you see the athletes, it's crazy to see how strong the setters are.

@zhechao524 2 года назад

Love the answer by the head route setter to the question "How to judge the difficulty". Awesome video, cant wait to see the next episode!

@dawsonprisk1389 Год назад

This video is great. Would love to see more like this where you just show one problem from start to finish

@mugoyoutube1681 2 года назад

The work was totally worth it! Mega concept, super video! Something like this should become standard! Now I almost don't like to watch competitions without the setting process - a very important and exciting element was missing. Chapeau to all!

@emildohse735 2 года назад

nice video! especially the send video/the athletes trying in the end made the whole video really cool! to have the direct connection between the routsetting ideas and the different methods of the athletes👌👌👌

@hugopeniche2276 2 года назад

Very nice movie. 👌🏼 It is not only about the routesetters climbing level, but how they all are able to work together in a team contribution, from the first request, the inicial idea, the trying in different methods and feelings, the adjustments to create the right and desirable effect. Good job and good format. ;)

@shawnjadrnicek3170 2 года назад

Love this video and the new format. Showing the comp climbers really impressed how strong the routesetters are. Thanks!!

@aidanloeser4890 2 года назад

this made yannick's top even more exciting to watch excellent vid thanks for all the extra work that went into it

@SurfAllBlue 2 года назад

For me one boulder with athlets later climbing on it is most interesting. Great video! Cheers :)

@Nick-B78 2 года назад

Superb!

@p3scful 2 года назад

This route was my fav one to watch, Inspired a lot, Classic Crimp Problem! Thank you for film this one. 👏

@BetaRoutesetting Год назад

my favorite belayer

@jaspercocquyt6428 2 года назад

very cool to see it like this, with al the tries at the end!

@jonathanrossddsmhs1271 2 года назад

Cool video format! When you find the time, more of these please.

@vladdy123123 2 года назад

This is absolutely superb! Cheers guys!

@francescprat8227 2 года назад

Great episode, as you can compare every tweak and "guessing" the routesetters did, with the real comp outcome... ;) Nice to see how very strong climbers get into troubles in the 4' countdown and how litle beta details are so determinant in World Cups Boulders (too much swing, different leg to cross, to much second-guessing...) Very nice insight!!!!

@mikafull 2 года назад

Love this format a lot and thanks for the afford.

@RyanSmith-ge6qp Год назад

Loved this format!

@haragusvlad3220 2 года назад

Very nice format, I loved it! 💪💪

@aarchanabulathsinghala7716 2 года назад

this was so cool to watch!

@phillipelapierre3821 Год назад

Great job on the editing!

@Enzo34 2 года назад

Awesome content!

@MartinClimbs 2 года назад

Best edit so far, loved it bro! love from Vienna

@BetaRoutesetting Год назад

AMORE

@allanrey5867 Год назад

Awesome video from start to finish. Is there a list of the songs used in the soundtrack?

@kenvlith 2 года назад

Absolutely fascinating and fantastic insight into the process & the huge efforts athletes had on it. Love this! Is it allowed to chuckle at how Yoshiyuki drops off on his first attempt? @25:09. And the 3rd shot of Yoshiyuki falling off, is it really Yoshiyuki? Hair seems different :).

@BetaRoutesetting 2 года назад

Maybe I mixed up someone. If so I apologize but how he fell off was quite spectacular

@baronrobin4918 Год назад

super awesome, made me fistpump when Yannick was able to pull it off : )

@frankheiser2775 2 года назад

Wooooop! geiler track am ende! Very much appreciate the work that you put into this video, can only imagine how much editing that was ;) The music and timing when Yannick stuck the sloper at 25:58 was epic! Is that you creaming Jah! Jah! Jah! in the background? :P

@BetaRoutesetting 2 года назад

haha yeah thats me. couldnt include too much real live audience cause i was talking and yelling in between but this one... had to be :)

@frankheiser2775 2 года назад

@@BetaRoutesetting Freaking awesome! Love that frenzy stoke that comes up when seeing other climb hard IRL :) Again, this format it absolutely killing it :D

@umuspumus 2 года назад

omg that Yannick top made me FEEL some things

@BetaRoutesetting Год назад

haha doesnt happen so often but IF.... goosebumps

@Rmikeyhow 2 года назад

Was this the hardest boulder problem of the season?

@BetaRoutesetting Год назад

i don´t remember the season that well. we thought afterwards for sure the hardest of this comp but then M2 & M3 also only had one top and M4 not a single one so... maybe? for sure one of the most physical boulders