Can the MCV leak hydraulic fluid into the center housing? I have fluid in mine and I was wondering if it could come from that or the front or rear seal. I cannot get my dump light to come on and the lamp works. It comes on once and a while. Let me know Great video.
I'm assuming you're dealing with an 86 series IH? I'm also assuming by center housing you are referring to the area where the clutch is located? If so, there really isn't any way the MCV could leak oil into that area. If you remove the cover plate under the clutch housing and find oil, you first need to determine if it is engine oil or hydraulic oil. If it is engine, it is your rear main seal leaking. If it is hydraulic it is likely leaking at your iPTO shaft seal. Either one of those will require splitting the tractor. If you split the tractor you should do both, as well as replace the clutch if it hasn't been recently. If your dump light isn't coming on consistently you should try replacing the sensor on the MCV. If you take the wire off of that sensor and touch it to a good ground the light should come on. It also wouldn't be a bad idea to test the hydraulic system pressure. The oil coming from the MCV pump also lubricates your rear end, and I've heard $20,000 horror stories about what can happen if that's not receiving proper lubrication.
@@GreenIronGarage It is a 1086 and I did change the sensor and I cannot get it to come on. Light works and when it is 40 to 50 deg out when I first start it push the clutch in and light comes on let it out and goes away just before the wheels move. I have adjusted the MCV, TA and buster and still no light. I am not sure how or where to put a gauge on.I read about it. The hydro leak I need to look further into. I am not so sure that it is in the center housing as I originally thought. It might be coming down from above. If it was full of hydro fluid my clutches should be slipping and I don't think the tractor would move. Thank you for your videos, there are not many out there to refer to.
@@andejo4436 That pump also supplies the oil for your remotes. If you have access to a flowrater you could test the pressure there. It would make sense that it works when its colder if the pump is getting weak because the oil is thicker. Same thing with your car, the oil pressure will be higher when the oil is cold and will come down once it warms up. So back to the oil issue, yes, if your housing was full of oil your clutch would slip. Have you removed that little cover on the bottom, beneath the flywheel? That is the best way to determine if it is in the housing.
Was it hard to rebuild that clutch booster? Mine it leaking down the cylinder and I think that is causing my tractor to be hard to shift into reserve and park. I pretty much have to shift into park the reverse.
It is a little tricky, but it is not very likely that it is your problem. These tractors are notorious for hard shifting. A lot of it has to do with the linkage adjustments. As the tractors age the cab bushings go bad and the cab moves a lot more, then the linkage is out of adjustment. Does it grind when you try to shift or you just have to pull hard to get the lever to move? The clutch booster is simply just to make it easier to press the clutch pedal down, if the leaking was causing problems it would be that the clutch isn't fully disengaging but then you should have grinding.
@@GreenIronGarage it's a open cab tractor. But it does grind in low and high shifting to it or sometimes pops out of low. Hasn't grind in reserve it will just stop. The clutch pedal has no pressure when you press on it.
@@GreenIronGarage I've been watching RU-vid videos with the same tractor series and they shift with no effort lol Im just trying to get it to that point
What model tractor? If its grinding it could be your clutch brake adjustment. When you press in the clutch slowly count to 3. If it still grinds after that then your clutch brake isn't adjusted properly. I work at a shop that sees a lot of these tractors and its pretty rare to come across one that actually gets used that shifts with no effort. It takes a lot of time making adjustments and you have to replace any worn linkage or you'll be wasting your time. Get a service manual and follow all of the clutch adjustment procedures first. If you are unable to get the clutch adjusted properly then it may be time to replace the clutch/flywheel or you may not be getting the full stroke from your booster. If you are going to do anything with the booster I would strongly recommend going to someplace like All States Ag Parts and getting a remanufactured booster. Then all you have to do is bolt it on and it comes with a 1 year warranty. Otherwise if you try to fix it and it still leaks you are out the time and money
@@GreenIronGarage it's a 786. I'm mechanical inline though and I been beatin around the idea of rebuilding it first before I start adjusting the clutch and linkages to see if that's the problem but I have all the manuals I just haven't had time to mess with it because I know it'll be a weekend thing the way my luck goes.
