I know this video is older, but I still wanted to take a moment to say thank you! I’m knitting my second ever pair of socks right now (I’ve been knitting for over a decade, socks have always just seemed intimidating!) and the fit was a bit snug around the ankle on the first pair. I did the math, applied this method, and now I have the perfect fit! Thank you for everything you continue to teach me. I don’t have any knitters in my life, and I’m so grateful for all the things I’ve learned from you over the years 💜
Thanks Roxanne. I've been looking for a tutorial like this for ages. Such a lovely clear explanation of how to add those extra gusset stitches to cater for a high instep when using a short row heel. At least I can finish my socks!
This issue is real and have to be adressed,i made socks with regular gsr and while it fits until i knit the heel part it doesnt fit after i finished the cuff!the horror! Thankyou for the video,i really enjoy the heel video series!love!
You are a great teacher! We are so lucky to have your videos for inspiration. I really enjoy your teaching style. You are very knowledgeable and easy to understand. Thank You😀 I am curious what is your favourite sock heel? Charlene
Hi Roxanne. This video was very helpful and informative. I may have missed one point though. How does a knitter determine when to increase the instep stitches? In other words, what's the length of the foot when increasing the width of the instep? TIA!
I don't have words to describe how gratefull I'm for learning from you. Thank you so so much for sharing all this knowledge with us! And as we say here for our idols, please come to Brazil! hahaha love you!
Anyone that meeds more room in Their instep area should do the fleegle heel. It finishes with a high instep. Wish you would do one so ill know I havent done something wrong🙃🙃
Sandra Casagrande i have a high instep and I’ve tried just about every kind of heel there is since I started knitting socks about 10 years ago. What finally worked best for me was the Fleegle heel. I first encountered it in a vanilla sock pattern I found in a book and subsequently modified to create an ideal fit for my foot. I didn’t find out that this heel had a name until a couple of weeks ago when I found a pattern that called it by that name. I recommend it highly. I found instructions at fleeglesblog.blogspot.com/2006/11/leegles-toe-up-no-flap-no-hassle-sock.html
Hi Roxanne, do you take negative ease into consideration for the finished socks in the calculation of the heel circumference ? Also, do you have a written sheet of the calculation? Thank you.
I prefer cuff down, one at a time, using Magic Loop, and I do everything I can to make sure the two socks match exactly, when using self-striping yarn. Until the past couple of years, I was strictly a heel flap and gusset person, because my entire family has high arches, and I couldn't get good information on making a SR or peasant heel fit. Once I figured out how to calculate that, I've had a lot of fun with SR heels, and lately, peasant heels. I prefer the gusset approach to both SR and peasant heels, if the stitch pattern will allow it.
ah, okay! i use toe-up and also a heel flap using a technique I read on the internet (and now I don't rven remember where I got it from). i've been planning to do a short row heel/peasant heel but i'm too nervous about the fit
One way to ensure a good fit is to use a provisional CO, and skip the toes until you've knit the heel, so that if you need to adjust the heel fit and end up with more/fewer rows, you won't have a problem with the fit of the foot. When I do a peasant heel for myself cuff down, I stop where I think the toes will start, then go back and do the heels, then I see how the foot fits and decide if I need to rip out a few rows or knit a few rows before I start the toes.
Hi!vI'm a new subscriber to your channel, it's fantastic!I have the opposite problem with my heels: they are too small in comparison to my leg or foot circumference (measured around my unsightly bunions ☹️) What can be done with my case? thanks!
So you need to maintain total circumference between the ankle and foot, but your heel diagonal is smaller than would be predicted? In that case, rather than increasing, or even using 50% of the sts, you would use fewer than 50% of the sts for the heel.
If you have trouble working out how to do the adjustments, let me know. I have a spreadsheet I use that takes into account gauge and stitch counts and helps me get to the exact numbers I need. You can PM me on Ravelry, if it comes to that.
Yes. I have a video on German short row sock heels 3 ways. You can see a playlist of all my sock-related videos here: ru-vid.com/group/PL1AZxTfSCe2cq3ZnnnCTGmbaqmGicKFQP
The calculations are based on negative ease. At the 2:39 point in the video, I referred to the previous week's video, which explained the calculations process, and there's a link at the top of the screen to that video. In addition, at the end of the video, there is a link to a playlist of all the videos in the series.
I increase 2 sts every knit row, 2 sts from the end of the needle 5 times and decrease them on the last 5 knit rows. It makes a deeper, yet not much wider heel.
Rox, when doing the increases , is it MIL at beginning and MIR at the end , just trying to be sure :) we want all stitches increasing and decreasing to lean toward heel. Is this correct?
I usually lean my increases toward the area changing in size (so m1L at the beginning and m1R at the end), but you can do it the opposite, if you like. Just be consistent!