IMRC module analysis and repair (Ford Focus ST170) 

Your method of teaching is awesome ❤

The intake flap has a strong spring that returns the flap as well as the cable. The spring in the module is just to take up the slack.

Amazing how much the control electronics have changed in recent years ( miniaturization and more microcontrollers) . Although I actually figured this was more mid to late 90s era. Newer than I expected

Yes! Car repair content! I was already a fan of the Czech 2nd channel videos ;) I watch a lot of car repair in general and was always hoping you could do more. There is so much stuff to repair where there is some really simple faults with these 80s-2010s car modules. After that everything is potted to the max or fails otherwise where you cannot fix it so often anymore.

There are so many ways to skin a cat but congrats to this one! Out of ALL them technical electronics channels your cat is by far the prettiest!

An important lubrication was missing - one that promotes a lot of friction reduction - is lubricating the cable inside its sleeve. You would notice the cable then would respond much better, where the same spring would be enough. The spring seems to be enough to maintain the cable in tension mode and avoid ‘compressing’ and buckling it inside its coiled sleeve. It will also reduce the tendency for corrosion, which would ultimately break the cable, but before that, the cable friction would increase so much that the device becomes stuck and defective. The “friction” of the motor seems to be the holding torque of the permanent magnets. Motor’s bearing friction is reduced by lubrication as you done. Motor’s holding torque and friction values are also MULTIPLIED by N:1 by the gear train, as seen from the cable side - so lubrication helps even more, but just for the ‘friction’ parcel, not the magnetic, obviously.

remember to lubricate the inside of the cable sheath

Nice to see devices from previous videos being used to test this one

The diode’s voltage drop went wild

The spring on the throttle body is resresponsible for returning the whole mechanism, the smaller spring in the box also helps with back lash.

A satisfying experience to watch this troubleshooting - and the Darlington & diode tests too.

I had a fault on my ST170 , the contacts where corroded, cleaned them up, and boom works perfect, no engine light. awesome video , ive subbed

Nice work finding the faulty components and replacing them with better ones!!!!

Friend and I recently got a cheap ford explorer, the 4x4 control module and radio had a blown fuse. We're thinking the previous owner tried to jumpstart it with the leads reversed. The radio survived with a new fuse but the 4x4 module needed to be replaced. The caps in it were leaking but repairing them didn't fix it, so we're thinking the reverse polarity killed it.

The gain is over 9000.

Very nice content! I really like all your automotive videos! 😊

Thank you for your valuable videos ❤️❤️❤️🙏🏻

"IMRC, not IMSAI" Nice piece of mechatronics, it may not be as mind-blowing as these avionic computers CuriousMarc showed, but still a lot oof fun to watch. That big Allen Bradley style resistor is certainly nice. Having a Bowden cable, the device could be circuit-bent to make an electronically controlled bike gear hub (like SRAM Spectro S7 etc.), it's only a matter of matching the cable pull and indexing.

I like the way of you'r talking 😊

nice! Especially into day´s more and more scarcity world it´s good to get stuff cheap repaired with standard components

I repaired one of those on my sisters ST170 about 10 years ago when it stopped and set a fault code for the inlet runner control. Can't remember exactly what was wrong with it, but I do remember buying a damaged one off eBay and repairing hers with the good parts from the eBay one.

You are so sweet and soft spoken

This is more like DiodeGoneOpenCircuit...

if I can find a cheap way to ship them... I can send you more ecm and car electronic modules than you would ever want. Damn I could probably fill up a huge box every few weeks A buddy of mine runs an industrial scrap yard and they get a few dozen automobiles per month. Sometimes they drive the damn things in there in good condition. His 2014 Jeep Liberty has been running for three years and somebody drove it in there after a family member passed away. He paid 500 bucks for that thing. They do mostly industrial salvage and only get a few cars here and there. They don't really like to take them. There was a 5 series BMW, range Rover, all kinds of crazy things over the last year or two. And he just crushes them the minute they come in. They're not interested in dealing with that stuff. And the whole place is just a tax shelter anyway to be honest. He lets me come in there whenever I want I used to spend several hours a day several days per week just hanging out around there to see what these industrial manufacturers and government entities bring in. But it's a full-time job just keeping up with and organizing that stuff. So I quit. Saw a government hydroelectric dam contractor bring a literal truckload of Lincoln TIG welders. Half of them still wrapped in Saran wrap brand new. It's just cheaper for them to scrap stuff and write it off on taxes sometimes. I get to buy things for 4 pennies per pound Amazon is the worst. We have a local Amazon warehouse and they scrap like a dozen forklifts and tuggers every year. Brand-new high-dollar battery powered ones full of electronics. The heatsink on those damn forklifts weighs 150 lb and it's one huge beautiful piece of milled billet aluminum. So you can imagine the power electronics on a lift like that if it has a heatsink that big. For some reason they scrap them after one year and buy new ones even though they are still damn like knew when they do it. It's sickening honestly

I was wondering what that was in my grandparents garage!

Nice work

Worth while trying a new diode :-D Your cat is very sarcastic... i like your cat lol. I often test power diodes with 1-3 amps passing through it, silicon can fail in an odd way. Get it hot to see if it breaks down.

Ive got a crazy idea. How about a cable that goes from the accelerator pedal to the intake manifold!!

You should apply the silicone around to cover to prevent moisture to get into the imrc. Also this box is located above the catalyst convertor so high temps are there, not good for electronics inside.

very well explained...

More of this! 👍

i typicaly won't comment on how bad other peoples' soldering is, but man what the actual flux are these joints on the connector? 15:45

amazing well done

That module looks identical to the one in my friends 99 Ford Taurus

Thanks

I take it that it worked !....cheers.

This man talks in like three different keys all at once.

For safety I would check the alternator voltage regulator and alternator output voltage, for loose battery terminals and so on, I suspect the voltage went too high and the zener clamped the output of the 1N5404 to ground frying it. If something is still wrong the next victim can be the ECM/ECU, ABS, SRS Airbag... Or at least see if it has any fault code stored related to the battey voltage. If the car had a dead battery (or no battery) and was jump started that could have caused a big voltage spike when the auxiliary battery was disconnected and classic "transformer and diode" dumb battery chargers are also prone to killing electronic modules.

Cool jewel

Danke! Thanks!

Hmm, strange that you didn't reveal what the function of that diode was for, that's the most interesting part.

When you pulled out the heat sink compound I expected you to fill the whole thing up like it was grease 😉. I was quite surprised when you put just a little dab on the heat sink/transistor. Also your cat agrees with me! 😅

You should make a new video about transistors like you were telling how to check if its good or doggy.

Lubrication, Graphite Dry Lub in the Cable Sleeve and drum. ;)

It's a pain. My car has been through more than one. Getting the cable back on is a pain as well

Good teaching think you si....can you explain an treadmill pawer supply? ❤❤❤❤❤

Nice ..

I think these are intake manifold runner control? Thanks For The Video!

Voltcraft has gone high-end on the meter side... On Mazda engines the runner length control is actuated by a servo right on the intake manifold. This solution seems a bit outdated...

Loved the testing of the darlington tranny. Great detailed description of test.

really weird that the cable connecting this is so long. really makes you wonder why they didnt just use an old school throttle cable.

Hello from Ukraine 🤘

15:25👍

Zdravim Danyku :) psal sem vam mail ohledne opravy modulu 👍 dobra prace

15:20 - could the transistor without glue now vibrate in the car and destroy the tracks on the board?

Bro how convert adopter in to charger

😎😎👍👍👍

With that sond contact posiin that is not present. This might be uesd in a similor aplacation that may have 2 or mor posoons or limet stops. Not likley mor tjan 2 hoever In abiton to having sene soumting along contacks like that as limmit switches. Somtimes was a rather intresting set up. As sort of a reud mentrey incoder with a cam for 4 destint posions! Essentially two bit binary! Another time pretty much similar contacts. But a different type of arrangement of the cam! A home position and just counting pulses the other contact again very similar switch contacts I don't think this was Automotive right I don't remember where I was saying this but it was very clever and very similar. Definitely those contacts were designed for more than one application possibly other actuators would use the second one as I said it would be driven both ways both serving is limit switches more than likely would probably be the reason for the design of having the potentially second contact in some application

Was it put back on the car ? did it work ?

I don't have time to watch whole video. Can you please add an executive summary containing issue description, diagnosis methods and repair result? Thank you.

The description doesn’t say how it turned out! And if still like to know if your work on your sister’s EGR worked

Did you pre-tension the return spring?

That's a very melodic accent.

turn on the subtitles please

"STURDY CORPORATION" XD

did it work ?

The only isue is that automotive parts are IP67, but once you open them they are IP trash.

hello friend I really liked your video where are you greetings

It was a Diode Gone Wild: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-EJCvyOo1CmY.html 😲

I had a module similar to this in a 2001 Mercury Cougar 2.5L 24 valve. I could not find anthing wrong with it. Then I discovered that the ground was open. Repaired the ground but it still did not work. Reset the fault with OBD2 reader still not working. It was not getting the signal from the ECM to actuate. It was too expensive to change the ECM so I lived with it. I was very sad, the top speed was only about 150 kmph. Later on the battery was disconnected for some reason and everything started to work. The top speed returned to 200 and now I was able to get to work on time.

What the heck is IMRC?

99٪ of cars modules are like that

Didnt he unwind the spring?

без обратной инженерии это видео потеряло большую честь своей ценности. Электрическая схема где? Это же очень интересно, что там делает микросхема управления соленоидом?

My Škoda 130L works fine without any of this. Another "kurvítko" found in modern cars.

man, clean up your soldering work before closing the case!

Same quality as a cheap kid's Toy

This looks like a student project… I'm not buying a Ford.

What?

I knew it didn't have a chance when the power supply came out.

Nice work, but you have to stop stretching the last syllable of the words. It's really disgusting that you do this.