Couple of things.if you change your pressure switch setting you MUST adjust your air pressure in the tanks.2 psi below cut in pressure.2.You dont have a total of the max gallons of the tank.The more air you put in the less water it holds.Its called bleed down.Other wise nice set up.I did the same and installed a 1.5 h.p. 15 gpm pump.works great.
Hey door gunner. I'm putting two exact same tanks in my set-up. It sounds like all I need is one pressure switch and pressure gauge, but I was going to also include a pressure relief valve and a couple of isolation valves in case I need to replace one tank or the other. Can you think of anything else I should include in the build?
Yes you are correct when adjusting the pressure switch you do adjust the tank pressure but all he did was add another tank adding a tank does not give you more PSI without adjusting the switch accordingly and the air pressure so yes it's not a true volume increase by the tank size most tanks are rated on the equivalent drawdown anyway
With the extra volume set you pressure switch to on at 50 off at 60 or if higher( if you know how to read your pump manual) if you don’t understand pressure vs water flow don’t mess with the upper end pressure , pipes size as larger as possible through out your system, I hope this will work. Also this is your own risk…there are things that can go wrong.
If you're sprinkler system was designed correctly then the pump would run constantly when the each zone is on. The off and on cost pump wear and higher electric cost. Adding another tank doesn't add psi
@@dadsworld5084 correct the magic word, illusion… so you could’ve gotten rid of the little tank cause it’s not really doing much for you anyways trust me the big tank is all you needed… it’s all about having your pump run less so you don’t burn it up as fast… the pressure is always gonna be the same. It’s just gonna take longer for you to run out of pressure water before the pump kicks on
Correct; however maintaining longer, higher pressure helps with irrigation and large water needs and prevents bottoming out of pressure more often and short pump cycles.
Have a question. We share a well with our neighbors It was set up that way years ago. The well is on their property and the pressure tank is over there too. We have low water pressure. What can I do to get higher pressure?
First of all, it's all about pump volume. You enjoy (as others have commented as well) a high pump volume. (gallons per minute) Where I'm located, an average pump volume (2 inch deep well system), is maybe 3 gallons per minute. With your system , my pump would need to run for an hour just to fill all the capacity. 🙂 At some point, when the pump kicks on...you are only running off the pump.! I obviously could not run all of what you are running as it would exceed my pump volume and the pump would cavitate. It is therefore important to know what your pump volume is as you can put 5 pressure tanks in, but... at some point, you are running on the pump. There is nothing free here especially if the yield (volume) is low.
This is true, which goes back to how deep your well is; if it is 400 feet deep, you already start off with a high volume of the reserve vs. a 30 ft deep well. Most people's wells are over 10Gal per min. However, if you have a slow well, you must calculate how much is in the pipe from the depth of your well; this will give you how long it takes to refill to ensure you do not cavitate your well.
Super instructive video for those of us who don't know jack about this stuff - thank you!!! I have one initial question, though. When you say, just make sure the pump pressure between the two tanks is the same, can you explain that to me as if I am a four year old. You said yours were clones. How would I correct the issue if they were not the same? My sister and I are getting ready to install a 1 HP Stainless Steel Shallow Well Pump with factory included Tank with Pressure Control Switch - 950 GPH. I want to add an additional tank, to increase time between on pump run cycles when water is being used and provide good, continuous pressure for times when water is being used for longer periods (Ie showers and washer cycles). Thank you, again, for the great video!!
So we just shut off our water to install a water line to our new fridge..now we can’t get hardly any water pressure..we tried running faucets to see if there was air in the line, tried finding the pressure regulator switch but the one on our tank doesn’t look like the typical bell looking one with the but you adjust..we did get the pressure to go back up to 30 psi but that’s the highest we can get it..
Yes, and if you happen to start shower when that huge tank is empty, you must wait for a long, long time for pump to gain pressure in the tank. You do not get any more pressure. Only difference in run times for the pump.
What size is your well pump. Running a new pipe is not that hard you have a drop on size of pipes that causes a restriction. You can do the submersible pump yourself with the size of the blater tank you might be putting to much pressure on itthew bigger one looks like what I want run. With as many bathrooms and striker zones. I would start of with inch and a quarter pipe with a one horse pump as far as the sprinkler run inch an a quarter or one inch to a manorfold that might break down to half inch
Water volume doesn't change the flow rate once the pressure drops down to the pump cut in your flow and pressure are all provided by the pump so nothing has changed. Is a bigger tank better?... Yes it is but for high volume use like a sprinkler system you might need a bigger pump.
Is that a lower level garage, umconditioned space outside the building envelope? Or a basement? Trying to figure out why there is insulation between the joists.
I have a small 36 gallon tank in my well house, approximately 100 ft of 1” line from well house to my home, I get excellent water pressure when I use any faucet, but when I use two, say I flush the toilet and wash my hands the pressure drops when using two fixtures could adding a larger tank help this issue I am experiencing? I have have checked pressure in my tank and checked my pump it cuts in at 30 and off at 60 and both are working perfectly
Adding another larger tank in tandem won't hurt for sure and can only help give a larger reserve. However, you shouldn't have that big of a drop from 1 facet to another when only running two teams in a house. In the short term, however, if you only have a small line coming off your 1-inch line feeding your facet and toilet in tandem, this might account for your lack of pressure since a tiny 1/2-inch line still only gives so much flow if that is what it is off the 1 inch which I am guessing.
do you hve a pressure release valve? if not you should put one in. also do you hve a one way valve inline before the pressure switch? if not you should put one. i figured since everyone else is telling you how you should do something different with your setup, although its working for you. I'd put in my 2 cents
It is a one way inline valve coming in, I do not however have a pressure relief valve just a 40/60 switch. Not a bad idea in case of a freak high pressure chance. Thanks for the advice
i seen this video some time ago, as o have the same small tank and with all mu livestock tanks on float valves if many are being used water presser drops in house so i bought the biggest tank i could an hooked it up the same way an set air presser the same in both, only my small tank fills, nothing go into the new big tank at all, i can rock the tank, lift it up so i know nothing in it, have you checked yours, i am thinking it has to be hooked up on the pump side of the small tank before the presser switch..
They need to be run past the pressure switch, and in parallel. Should be no reason that it won't fill up as there is only one way it can go; if it is not filling, I wonder if somehow you have a bad bladder in the tank? Never had one that won't fill up. If both tanks didn't fill, that would be a pump or switch, but one filling and the other not is odd if hooked up correctly.
@@dadsworld5084ye yes i hoked them up as you showed , the small tank always fills an the big tank is new and will not fill at all, it like its air locked totally, i even put a ball valve on a tee at the inlet to bleed an nothing enters. yet i unhook the small one an put the brass tee with switch into the big one and it fills, no small attached..
@@arnoldromppai5395 Sounds like you need to switch out the big tank from where you bought it. Is there something in the hole of that tank what brand is it?
Can you add the second tank after the filtration system but right before the water heater split? is it necessary to fit this tank right next to the existing one? Thank you
Typically you would want them to run right after each other; you could always put the tank in another place but pipe it back to the connection point if you are area limited.
Thank you for the idea.. Now when we turn on the washing machine on downstairs we don’t get any water at the kitchen faucet upstairs ! How can I remedy that issue ? Please let me know..
I have no idea without seeing how the piping is going; adding a pressure tank would not affect these two separate issues; it sounds like you are getting a drain of water in one direction for some reason, and the other is siphoning off from one or stealing. Water coming into your house would affect all issues the same way, not individual ones like this; you could check the pressure to make sure you have enough going to run both, which should never be a problem. however, it's a starting point.
The larger the tank size the longer the cycle times; pumps have it hardest when they kick on and off, and actual runtime is not bad on them. I have large 17 zones with 5 heads a zone and I get about 5-6 mins of run time and off time, give or tank, on my system.
@@dadsworld5084 wow 17 zones 😮 that’s a lot of pipes! If you don’t mind me asking why only 5 pop ups per zone? I was hoping I could put 10-15 per zone once I start putting my system in.
well, my well refresh rate was only 12 Gal per minute; if I had more like 20gal a min or more, I could have easily put in like 7-9 per zone, but since there is only so much water in reserve to pump I had to slow the volume going out. Take a look at your well head; it has a metal stamp per code that says how many gals per min, 12 is okay 20 is very good, 5 or fewer stinks; also, you can pull from your county how deep your well is and at what water level this lets you know how much water is in the pipe to begin with, my well is 132 ft deep, water at 38ft, with 12 gal refresh rate per minute.
Gotcha. Not sure about my well volume yet. I had a local man put it in . I’m on sandy ground so he just washed it down if I remember correctly it’s only 20 feet deep and he hit good water supply at about 13’. It’s got a 2” well pipe.
Another thing for your sub pump use poly pipe. It Farley cheap. In the house. Don't use copper because it will stain the tub over time. Don't use galvanized or black. The best I think cpvc pipe. With shark bits at the joints to last longer
They sure are, I installed the big blue because it only reduces PSI of pressure by 1 instead of 10 psi due to 20Inch size. Pretty cheap overall; it's 50 or 60 bucks; filters are 50-60 bucks for 2 last year. Take a lot of minerals and other things out of the well. It probably took me 15 minutes to install. It's pretty easy, and I can make a basic overview video if you like. You can even go with higher filtration than the 10 microns I use. But probably will need to change every 4 instead of 6 months due to the small tolerance on filters. It takes me about 60 secs to change a filter really easily.
All that bigger or more tanks do is lengthen the time of cycle. If you want to reduce that number to one cycle per demand and maintain a true constant pressure then look into a cycle stop valve. You could have saved hundreds on that big tank, and have a more on demand higher pressure straight from your pump.
Thanks for the advice; however, pumps typically wear out with starting and stopping vs. long run times, so it is techna=ically better to have a longer run time vs. start and stop every other minute. Pumps are expensive to change do to being in the ground vs. a tank above ground. However, that is another way to increase pressure, and I appreciate the advice as always!
You do not need a pump change to use a Cycle Stop Valve. Using one allows for no more than 1 pump cycle per demand. You are correct that cycling on/off is the biggest killer of pumps. No matter how big of tank you use, or how many you tee together, long term water uses will cycle your pump more than once.
@@kjellg6532 Yes there is doubt on YT, but coming from people who have never used a CSV or an amp meter to check if it is efficient or not. You do not even have to manually check if you look at the pump curves and do the math. The proof is all there in writing from the pump manufacturers. People who make YT videos spreading doubt on information that has been proven for over 50years are doing it for the attention. They do not know anything about pumps.
@@samualosten5212 With a constant pressure valve, and flow switch added to an old on/off solution in leu of a CSV, you can build a system that starts at and maintain set constant pressure, while a CSV will drop down to starting pressure before the pump starts, and with full pressure when opening a faucet. A home made solution will outrun the CSV.
Technically it does not matter how many items you have on the well; it would increase your overall ready supply to all of the above. This is how it gives the appearance of higher flow for longer times.
Good info. I share a well with 2 other cabins and my cabin is about 30 feet higher in elevation than the well. When the 3rd cabin tapped into the well, my upstairs shower barely drips, even when the other 2 cabins are not in use. Main floor and basement showers are good, and the pressure in the well house is set at 75 psi. Can I put a second pressure tank in my cabin basement (about 150 feet uphill from the well) to increase my water pressure and availability?
Good Question, typically you would want to run them side by side before it goes to all 3 cabins so that the pressure can maintain equal pressure throughout the system, I would see if I could go back to the source near the tank to put it personally if possible, al the cabins will enjoy more pressure, it does seem strange that only your top floor ahs been affected since it is a sealed closed system you would think the pressure at one point is the same as the other points unless the pipe diameter feeding your top shower is decreased to let less flow through to it. I could see a decrease if all cabins were taking showers at the same point but that seems storage to me that even with no draw there is an issue. Do you know how much the well produces per minute and how big a pump is in it? By providing a secondary tank that is much bigger and running it in parallel it will provide a larger reserve of water and more consistent pressure no matter what typically.
No. You would need a booster pump. With a second tank adding just tank would do nothing. Tanks do not provide pressure your pump does. Take a look into cycle stop valves to save your money on a big tank that usually last about 5 years before the bladder breaks.
@@dadsworld5084 It does not matter where tje tanks are, the pressure is the same and water is fed from any tank. Mind though, you lose 1 bar in pressure per 10 meter elevation.
Your washing machine should not take enough water to empty a tank/well. Do you have the same problem with showering or other activities? If you do, I would be concerned your well is not producing enough water or GPM.
Maybe the washer has a leaking fill valve. Those are pretty standard solenoid valve assemblies with a solenoid for hot and a solenoid valve for cold. Mine had a valve that wouldn't turn off. To check this see if a warm wash fills the tank higher than it should. A warm wash setting will check the fill valve for hot and the fill valve for cold water at the same time. The fill valve part is cheap and easy to change if that is your problem.
What determines you having a 40 to 60 PSI setting on the well system Rich ?? What is the pressure inside the pressure tank you are using ??? How about the cost of the small pressure tank and the large pressure tank ?? I like your video Sir
the 40 -60 is a switch that goes on the system that relies to the pump when it must kick on and kick off and can be adjusted some in each direction if needed, the tanks have 46 pods in each and it important to have the same in each if running in parallel like I have done, however they also can be adjusted but most of the time it is not needed. I got the small 35 gal tank with the well install in 2016, and bought the other from Home Depot, at the time it cost around 4-5 hundred off the top of my head, took another 10 mins to install and gave me a very long pressure cycle. Hope this helps you. Basically gives a large volume of water per cycle! Helped a ton with my large irrigation system I put on my house and 4 showers that I can run at same time if needed!
I understand what you have stated to me Sir. What I am still fuzzy on is which pressure is best for a home system to operate on PSI wise ?? Thanks@@dadsworld5084
What pressure do I need to get more pressure. How does the water get in the tank. I don’t know what to do to increase pressure. It is a big tank for water irrigation.
The pump does the pressure, and the tank is a reservoir. It can be for home or irrigation; the more extensive the reservoir, the less the pump has to kick on. The longer you get steady pressure, the more consistent the flow!
You need to take a look at your pump gpm rating. If your drawing more volume than your pump can flow your pressure will drop. What you can do is get a bucket and time how long it takes to fill one gallon of water and compare that time to what your pump is rated for. After that combine usage like how much does a washing machine require and how much flow is needed when taking a shower or running 2 showers and a washing machine at the same time. Then you'll have a good idea what pump is required.
it should have a max on the side of the tank, just in case you have separate brand tanks, the big thing is to just make sure they are the same pressure once installed, they will probably be close already, when pairing a large tank with the original tank it makes a massive difference in your water pressure for sustained periods of time like multiple showers, sprinklers, etc.
I may have missed something, but I am wondering what advantage this configuration makes over just replacing the 32 gallon tank with the 119 gallon one?
If you have the space for both, no real down side to having both, just more capacity. Myself, if i go bigger i would need to swap tank out. No more room where i have my tank at. In his case... could have 10 tanks
@@dadsworld5084 nope..all you get is the drawdown, not the total volume of the tanks. Look at the drawdown numbers and add them together. That'll give you the volume of water stored in the tanks.
You should never put ANY Shut off or Restrictions before the Auto Pressure Switch. If someone, “a kid,” shuts the valve. Then when the pump kicks on, it will either blow a fitting up apart, or burn the pump up. No Sediment Filters in this area, either. Also I highly recommend the Auto Pressure Switch with the Manual Reset Lever, if a pipe burst and/or the pump cannot keep up, it will lock out the pump, preventing further damage.
you will have to see on the tank recommendations, off the top of my head I think mine is 60psi, but just look on tank or tank specifics which you can google.
I have done a fair amount of research on this and it is my understanding that the way you have it hooked up is incorrect. My understanding is that you need to have two similar sized tanks and the inlet needs to be in the middle of the two tanks.
Well, it has been running great since 2016 or so, and that is another way of doing it. However, they do not have to be the same size tanks, which defeats the purpose of using an old tank; they just need to have the same pressure in each.
As a residential plumber this is not helpful lol volume doesn't give you pressure We measure well tanks by the cut on draw time not pressure. Please call someone that does this for a living
Yes, you could, however, you would be wasting the small tank at this point, by running in parallel you get both tanks since you already own both pretty simple to run together.
Tanks do not provide pressure. Your pump does. Tanks just hold water. If you want constant pressure you might want to take a look into cycle stop valves. This valve does not turn off the pump when it is in demand. You can go with the smallest tank ex 5 gallons. Adding a second tank will only increase your draw time.
Correct Tanks do not provide pressure; however, they maintain it on most systems in between pump cycles since the pumps generally run on 40-60 switches meaning cycles the bigger the tank, the more it holds steady pressure. The more reserve it will hold in between cycles. So. by having a higher reserve, you maintain longer continuous pressure and generally have a much better system; there are other ways to get steady pressure; however, they are usually much more expensive and cannot be done without a good company. Tanks should last much longer than 5 yrs; our correct ones have 7yrs on them, my last house is 10 yrs, and my other home in Florida, where the tanks sit in the sun, is 11 yrs. Remember, the better the tank, the longer it lasts! The two types in this video are typically some of the better ones and should provide numerous years of use.
"Well Pressure Tanks" provide the pressure, the pump just fills the tank. Cycle Stop Valves are BAD! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-65NHNBlzR1c.html
You do not know what you are talking about. Adding tanks gives you volume and not more pressure. You could add 300 tanks and your pressure will stay the same. You don’t understand how it works.
It should give you more consistent pressure due to the large reservoir. Basically, if you have a 40/60 switch, you should have much longer cycles of closer to 60 psi without pumps turning on and off, which is much easier on the pump. By maintaining a more constant pressure at high ends, it gives the impression of higher pressure. .
With a lager tank you do not get any increase in pressure, only longer intervals in cycling of the pump. To increase pressure you must adjust the pressure switch. Then you are limited with what the pump can deliver.
So you did nothing and does not increase your water pressure at all. You have a bit more volume but not more pressure. And also you still have less then you think. Of gallons of water between the two tanks. If you know how they work with the air balder... Better luck next time bud....
Increased the amount of time he's on the high end of his pressure. Decreased his electricity costs. Extended the life of his well pump. He also has a backup if the bladder goes bad in one of his tanks. Critical thinking isn't your strong suit,is it?
@steve But when his tanks are low his well will have to pump longer to refill this much tank space. I believe not all pumps are designed for long periods of pumping. For example my well pumps about 12 gallons a minute. Having this much tank to fill would cause my pump to run longer than the pump recommended. I’m installing a 64 gallon tank. For my well pump that is on the larger size. If your water supply is enough a big pressure tank is awesome. If your water supply is a little weaker the big tank is going to burn out your well pump. My guess is this guy does have to much tank for his pump. An easy way to pick a tank size that I ran across is count your out puts and multiple by 3. I have 18. 18 x 3 = 54 I went with 64 gallon tank. This guy had something like 140 gallons. That enough pressure for 46 outputs.
Probably one of the most pessimistic posts I’ve ever seen, especially with the cocky Ender calling him bud. How about try to help rather than be a dick
