Injector Black Death 5 Mistakes to Avoid! Mercedes & Sprinter Vans! 

back yard tip...use a pic tool to loosen the black goop, and vacuum it out with a straw taped to the crevice tool. then run the engine until its hot, and start to loose the stretch bolt...the compression of the engine will push the injector up a new millimeters, loosing the injector. shut off the engine and remove the injector as fast as possible. No puller required.

Some really great tips..to avoid any issues at a later stage..thanks.

You did it bro that's all there is to say about that you did it you did it that's the best video on sprinter injector repair/replacement I have ever seen

Thanks for time putting this very helpful video together. Without your video I would struggle to complete this job successfully.

TOP fella, absolutely spot on with your advice here, Thank you so much for this very Valuable info, Bless and please post more superb videos.🙂

Very very very very good job on the video man! Thank you thank you thank you

Thank you for posting very helpful video

I did mine in the back yard. I had more time than money, and another Sprinter to drive while I repaired it. I didn't know about the injector claw, so I used the next best thing, lots of patience and lots of PB Blaster. 2 were leaking, but I changed all 5. I used 2 different techniques to clean the injector hold down holes, tapping, and the one I would recommend. Brake cleaner, a .22 caliber gun cleaning brush, and 100 psi blasted into the hole from a 1/8" copper discharge line. Rinse and repeat. Thanks for the video. I learned some more.

Good useful video ,Thanks for posting

Great tips thank you!!

Great video thank you!

Awesome video thanks

I’ll be pulling out all 6 of my sprinter injectors and I’ll take on you advise thank you

How is there only 43 comments on this!! I'm not a mechanic but can I really believe a mechanic to do this job properly? Would Mercedes even do this properly? I think I would insist they watched this first!! Oops that might not go down very well!! 🤔😆 Excellent video. Thankyou.

M'en, great quality content!!!

Good info, thanks

Is there a product that dissolves the gunk in the bolt hole & what to use to get the copper seal out if it's left behind . P S very informative video 👍 .

Hallo, Schön, simpel erklärt, so, wie man s machen sollte. Thanks, to say, the right Way.

This is good content. thanks for posting. I'd buy my parts from your group, but I'm in Australia. :)

My friend thank you very much! How do I clean out the bolt hole so I don't run into comes in the bottom when I torque it down

SUPER!!!

Hi, thank you for your video!. I have a 2007 JEEP Commander CRD (with the M.B. OM642 V6 3.0 L. engine), will this tools work for me too?, apparently the inyector removal claw is for other engines...right?. Thanks!

Can you give some tips on the Jeep Crd from 2005 to 2008. Seems like they are plagued by issues stemming from the EGR, and the gink and sludge that is deposited when running those gasses back thru the Turbo and top end of the engine. I believe those motors are VM and not mercedes, so maybe a separate video idea? Thanks! 😎👍

Nice

So far fixed my OM646 with only that tool and new botls and washers. So far so good. a nice DIY job if you ask me. I had the remove the entire windscren wiper assembly and the rain catch box to get to the 4th cylinder. It is a w639 vito van. Do this on a worm engine. Put some copper grease on the injectors when you put theme back in

Impressive

Any suggestion what is the recommended maximum torque for tightening injector holder bolt?

Thanks for the video but I’d like to add that there’s always a risk of stripping or breaking the bolts. Please buy a brand new Mercedes or Febi Bilstein bolts and MB Copper washer.

Thanks for the info, Ewan McGregor. Loved you in Trainspotting btw.

What’s the best way to clean the threads and what cleaner is safe to use ?

Excellent 👌 thanks for sharing

Hi, my Vito w639 is the facelift model from 2013. Is this problem still expected to happen in the facelift model?

My copper seals got stuck - what a pain. In the end I welded a thin stud extractor onto a thin T bar and it came out immediately.

Good tips there

I’ve used my injector bolts over and over and over as I’ve repaired my injectors and there control valves and nozzles and there’s nothing wrong with the bolts and my injectors have done 13.000 miles and they don’t leak so no Black Death. The only problem you might get with the bolts are them snapping witch you didn’t mention.

Thank you for the great video! How do you recommend getting the gunk out of the threads? And if the copper sealing ring is left behind down at the bottom, is it tricky to fish it out? Is there any cleaning product (i.e. acetone) that you've found to be safe and efficient to use to clean up the tar?

I broke the cover with the removal crawl, the first injector that is

No need to wait until its leaking and carbonized. Re-seat the injectors every 2 years or 50k kilometers as routine maintenance and you will find its easy and economical. When there is no carbon to clean up it goes very quickly. Can't DIY? Find an independent and discuss it.

I did this repair recently and all was good untill the engine got to temperature and white smoke bellowed out and the engine developed a knock

Can anyone advise me of a good mechanic that would do this job with me? I only have this 1 van and I use it daily to even try and mess it up. I’ll travel to him/her anywhere close to Illinois or Indiana states. Thanku!!

Mercedes service did mind after work done has miss fire now they telling me that i need new engine its only 171xxx miles on it i don’t know what the do ::( i am from reading pa i need help some one can fix this

How do you recommend cleaning the hold down bolt threads , without risking debris getting in the injector port

I had black death now after cleaning car knocking on cold only. Don't get it. Om651. I thought bad injectors but not quite. As even I remove (connection) them one by one the knocking at cold persists. Did oil change with thin oil and new filter still bad knock on cold. When warm sounds perfect.

I think I am going to have to write a check for this one. To much room for error.

The injector remover claw does not fit onto the OM642 engine. Do you know of another way to remove them?

Just doing my old banger now. 40 yrs experience, other tools : brake cleaner / coca cola(soak overnight, over three nights if it takes it - you've seen what it does to pennies :) smallest electrical / watch makers screw drivers to puggle down sides of injector/s, more brake cleaner - more blow gun. Ideally, if you're doing 1 injector (like I am at the moment) get the engine at TDC No (3 for me) (which is 180 degrees after TDC NO 1) at least then you can finally blow out with both valves shut, and hopefully remove any of the 'coal gremlins' from the cylinder you've been working on. I'm too old for this shite. :)

How do you bring out all that gunk in the bolt thread?

No one has mentioned not getting any of 'even' the black death 'dust' into the cylinder, let alone some small lumps of it. The top tools for this job are patience, a 140 psi 150 ltr tank compressor and a narrow nozzle blow gun, :)

Hello. If the injector seats are damaged badly, can it be cut deeper and use longer hold down bolts? Also heard that the Honda injector seals works better on damaged seats. Your thoughts🤔

I wonder if those copper washer has a position like up and down

Would that cause black smoke while accelerating ?

Hmm, sounds like a plague. Don't worry I'll avoid that 😂

Rule number one should be try not to snap the hold down bolt.

Faithful customer here, with two related questions: 1. How about putting a thick washer under the head of a used "stretch bolt" to compensate for the stretch and then re-use? 2. Does ID PartS sell a long, slim, spiral-wound wire brush, perfectly-sized to clean the hold down female threads and, if no, WHY NOT?

Paying $1200 next week for this....v6 turbo 2500 2008. All 6.

As a survivor of BLACK DEATH .... these TOP 5 are not the only mistakes people make, there are more!

Mistake #6. I over tightened the return line to the fuel rail and it hairline cracked the fuel rail on the inside. Blew the line off of the fuel rail while driving. 1,000.00 mistake

Great video. You just reminded me why I dont work in the industry anymore. Virtually everything on the market is garbage. Most problems can be fixed with an LS swap. Just kidding!

My 2020 sprinter has been in the shop more than the road😰

I CALL BS!!! INJECTORS HAVE BEEN TAKING OUT USING PENATRATING FLUID AND WIGGLE IT OUT USING A FLAT SCREW DRIVER. YES! YOU MUST USE BRAND NEW COPPER SEAL. EVERYTHING ELSE IS SPOT ON!!! SO NEW SUB. FROM THE 641.. THANK YOU!!

Seems to me it would be easier to keep a watch for this if that plastic cover was removed

Thanks, it's so fucking annoying, half of these I've heard as advice whilst having this problem, sometimes I wish people who don't know would just fuck off... Do you have any advice about what bolt to use? I think I'm gonna have to retap mine 🤦

I have repaired about a hundred of these, maybe more using a pin bar through the injector clamp. I remove the bolt from the clamp and then insert the pin bar, pry back and wiggle. I have never broken anything removing Mercedes sprinter cdi injectors. I have also used duramax injector seals in the om 642 engines numerous times. I still see the vehicles for other services but the duramax seals are fine if not better than the rounded style Mercedes ones that I have seen burned out in 50,000miles on new sprinters. Like 1 year old van all stock with black death already at 50,000miles. The sprinter Van's are no better than econoline 6.0 diesels.

And never ever watch porn on your phone while changing injectors

kill the music. kill the music. kill the music. kill the music

happened to me, have to redo four times, made nearly all stupid move you mentioned.