I appreciate the video! I had one injector stuck more than the one in your video, actually breaking a factory injector claw. I was ready to cut my injector or break my valve cover because I need to remove my head to replace it and saved my $1000’s by not having to destroy more than I needed.
If you are planning to keep you diesel Mercedes-Benz, then there is no need to wait until its leaking and stuck. Make injector re-seating a part of the routine schedule.
Agreed. In this particular case, I obtained the Mercedes from an auto auction and it would seem routine maintenance was not something the previous owner was aware of.
@@barrydandrews It's a shame how these cars were treated by the previous owners. I obtained one that also was poorly maintained. It's amazing how these cars can still run and drive with so much wrong with them. I'm having to replace the timing chain in my om648 as it has stretched from dirty oil 8 degrees.
Fantastic DIY tool! I'm battling a VERY stuck #1 injector in a 2004 Mercedes Sprinter. I think it's funny that in this video you can see the injector coming up with the slide hammer, but you still opted for the giant press. What I would give to see my injector move AT ALL!! Thanks for sharing this.
Yes, the point of making this video was to show a method that works when you have really stuck injectors. Injectors can be stuck for a number of different reasons. For example, the engine may have been removed from the vehicle and not running, or the injector bodies may be warped or cracked, etc. For this particular Mercedes E320, ALL of the injectors could have been removed with just the slide hammer. But I have encountered other cars with stuck injectors where every method failed except for the press I showed in this video. I am not trying to say that this is the best method that should be used in all situations. But when you run into that VERY stuck #1 injector in a 2004 Mercedes Sprinter, give this method a try and let me know how it goes!
Please get the engine heat soaked as much as possible and work fast so it does not cool too much before attempting to lift the injector. Every bit of help with this project will be necessary. Good luck!
that job on my hyundai terracan after 200.000 kmt was one hour there was no carbon but pressure lost on the commonrail hard cold start i have seen mb tech that runs away from injector jobs
You should have soaked the crud around the injectors with a solvent de-greaser, washed and dried it. Then soaked it with a good wet dosage of WD40 and allow it to soak over night. Then undo the injector clamp bolts 2-3mm started the engine and run it for 5-10 minuets and then driven the car around the block. The heat would soften the tar crud and compression would have popped the injectors up enough to allow you to soak some more WD40 and pull the ejectors out.
Yes that is a good approach too. I didn't show it but Injectors #2, #4, and #5 were removed by basically following this approach. On injector #1 in this video you can see that the injector was just starting to move with the slide hammer. But sometimes the injectors are so stuck that even after running and cracking injector clamp bolts the injectors won't budge. This can happen when the injectors have actually failed and are physically broken/cracked etc. There are also situations when an engine won't run or has been removed from a vehicle. Anyway, thank you for the feedback. It is good to have options.
I had the sand problem on a Fiat diesel. Soaking with solvents had absolutely zero effect. The worst injector had to be jacked out. When I got the cylinder head off, the affected piston was full of hard carbon coke. That would have destroyed the turbo at the very least.
You have never had a seized injector I guess. This particular vehicle was not that bad but on Mercedes CDI sometimes removing the injectors can be difficult. Other methods involve unscrewing the solenoid and threading in a rod but that usually requires an injector rebuild. eg. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-4gJjywZTTJc.html
Wow worst case I've seen. I had an 06 with 425k and no issues before it got totaled and now have an 05 with over 305k with no injector issue. Only body issues like trunk leaks really. I love this engine.
I was trying to come up with the same sort of puller for a Sprinter van, 2005, but the valve cover is so weak I couldn't push down where I wanted, but your way gives me some more ideas!!
@@berniemac8413 Bit the bullet, ordered the Cheap puller where you have to unscrew the top off the injector, bought new injectors to replace them with, didn't want to mess with having them cleaned, tested....all good now.
Hi Barry, great video. managed to get my injector out and was careful not to allow crud to go into the injector clamp stretch bolt hole. Got myself a 3/16" 12" drill bit to clear out the hole, but if seems impossible to rotate the drill bit by hand, and the hole feels kinda wierd as if there is a sheared off section of an old bolt in the hole. The bolt i took out is exactly the same size as the Febi replacement bolt kit i bought to re-fit, so this cant be true. have you come across this before?. Many thanks.
@@barrydandrews Ok Barry, thanks for the comeback. Comparing bolt/drill bit drop there certainly is something in there. So..decided to bite the bullet and drill it out. Started with a 200mm long 2mm tungsten tip bit and got (turning slowly on drill speed) to full depth. Drilled all the way up to 3/16....then the bit broke (not the 12"). So i now have just the tip of a drill bit stuck in there, AND the original problem. The only thing i can think of it was some kind of bodged heli coil done by the previous owner. The car was awash with "Bodge jobs", and its taken me 2 years to work my way through them. Am stuck now between a rock and a hard place with the car, and this could well be the end of its days. I guess its a warning to everyone. Thanks for your help anyway.
@@bladerunner350 Sorry to hear that. For stripped threads without broken drill bits etc. this is a good solution: www.timesert.com/html/1610E2-note.html
If the drill bit is broken inside aluminum you might be able to use the technique in my other video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-NUPlGhuLHXo.html
Can I share a section of the video on my channel ? I'd like to present your assembly for other applications, such as removing a stuck transmission axle or a wheel bearing
Very good idea, maybe you can help me with an idea. I had a broken injector bold and after trying so many things i ended up dieper and dieper with drilling o the bold. And after so many times i measure , i drill to diep and come in the water channel under the blod. Is there a way to solve this hole? I went to an mecanic near by and he told me to tap new threads and put in a inbus screw with some pasta around to close the hole and then above make new threats for the 6 or 8 mm bold to hold down the injector. What all off you think of this solution? Or have you other ideas to repair this without taken the head off. I am open for eny sugestions. Kind regards geert.
Have you drilled all the way into the block? Removing the head is not too difficult and so you might consider doing that. At least you will be able to assess the problem better and hopefully achieve a better solution. To remove the remnant of a steel bolt that is surrounded by aluminum please look at my other video for a novel approach.
Thanks for feedback. I came up with this method when trying to remove injectors from a Mercedes engine that was removed from the vehicle. All other approaches had failed.
Yes, what you describe is the best way most of the time. But when that fails (eg. engine not running or removed from vehicle) then it is good to have other options.
yes i forgot to say its a om646 EVO engine from 2006 to 2009. 4 cilinder e220 CDI 170PS so a 2148cc or something. Engine is 646 821 , Few days ago i went to get the head off an mercedes c203 model and engine is om 646.962 iits an c200cdi 2.2 but iits an different valve cover. mine is a black platic cover and the other one is the same like your car from alu but also 4 cylinder. I donnt know they are interchanseble? And the injectors of the EVO engine are not from bosch and the 14mm screw from the high pressure are on the top of the injector. DELPHY injector are on mine engine. Hope sombody have some idias. regards geert
the tops of them injectors unscrew so you can screw on your pulling tool, and who left it so long. that takes a long time leaking to coat everything like that.
I find keeping the injectors intact and not unscrewing the tops is an overall better approach. You might need to test/recalibrate the injectors if you start pulling the tops off. The car had the "black death" when I acquired it so I don't know how long it was running like that.
Yes, that approach often works. But sometimes the injectors are so stuck either due to injector damage or the engine is not running (maybe it was removed from the vehicle). In these cases it is much easier (and faster) to use the approach I showed in the video. In much less than the 2-3 hours you take to get the engine hot, the job is done!
There is nothing really special about the steel plate. It is 10" x 16" x 3/4" with three 3/4" holes drilled in it. It's heavy so it would probably be best to find a local steel supplier.
@@barrydandrews thanks for the info Barry. Any recommendations on how to get a stuck injector copper washer out on this motor ? tried using a pick no luck.
@@LSXREVIVAL Try a long slotted screwdriver and gently poke at and pry the copper washer. You could also try using some penetrating fluid to soften up any deposits.
Yes, that will probably work too. I may make another video that shows this same engine pulled from a wrecking yard where someone has attempted to pull the injectors and has cracked the cover. In this case the engine is not in a car, not running and the injectors are stuck. So it is good to have different options to pull these injectors.
Tried that, a couple of times I actually lifted the entire front of the car by pulling on the injector. This way is better. The problem with a lot of pullers is that they have no solid surfaces to push against and this gentleman has come up with a brilliant option with those sockets and extensions.
Did you realize the long rod that screws into the forked injector puller is part of a slide hammer set? You are just missing the slide weight. So no monkey business with the extensions and the board and the bottle jacks and the steel channel and the set up!
Perhaps you did not watch the entire video where I show and use the slide hammer set. The whole point of this setup is to give an option for situations when injectors are VERY stuck. This can happen when the injectors are physically deformed from heat or in situations where the engine is not running and you do not have the benefit of engine heat to help loosen the injectors.
Mon français n'est pas bon et je ne suis donc pas sûr de comprendre votre commentaire. Plusieurs fois, une approche à marteau coulissant fonctionnera surtout si le moteur est à la température de fonctionnement. Mais parfois, les injecteurs sont tellement bloqués qu'il est plus facile et plus rapide d'utiliser l'approche que j'ai montrée dans la vidéo. (Traduction gracieuseté de Google Translate). My French is not good and so I'm not sure I understand your comment. Many times a slide hammer approach will work especially if the engine is at operating temperature. But sometimes the injectors are so stuck that it is easier and faster to use the approach I showed in the video.
