When C-notching the frame, always center punch and drill a hole at the corners prior to cutting out the C. This prevents the frame from cracking due to stress, vs just making straight cuts in to the corners.
@@poolesperformance6146 They never show welding it internally so I don't think it is. The way their reinforcement goes on as 1 piece leaves no way to do it and they didn't have any other pieces welded in the frame before putting it on.
Guys I have a 1990 Chevy C1500 350 sport , identical to the truck you guys are working on. You are building it very similar to what I had in mind for mine. I’ve never had a bunch of money so I had to buy parts here and there so my truck set up for many years. Just when I got rolling good with my build my shop burnt down with everything own in it. I was in the process of moving so when I got back to Louisiana I had no place to really live so I moved all my stuff in my parents shop. All my new parts all my tools I mean eve that was in my last home was stored in the shop. A couple months later the shop burnt to the ground with all my stuff in it. Then top it all off I got screwed out of my transmission from a local builder. I am almost in tears watching you guys build this truck! You guys are doing a top notch job on that truck. I hope one day soon I’ll get the money together again but it don’t look like that will happen to soon. Thanks guys for all the good ideas. I really like the rear end work you guys built for the truck
I love it when people do things that aren't totally necessary just because you can. Imagination is a great thing in hobbies I reckon. I put a cross ram intake on a SBC in my 4x4 truck for the same reason - oh and a really expensive Milodon single idler gear drive. In case anyone was wondering it is totally, completely, utterly silent when set up as per the instructions - as quiet as the chain it replaced. I was hoping for a very slight but noticeable whir. Apparently the crappy dual idler 'quiet' are still pretty loud but I was never going to put one of those in anyhow. Oh well it'll last forever and the front seal is easy to replace now.
One minute in, seeing new motor and dirty as-eff chassis and thinking "Sarah-n-Tuned would have cleaned that chassis, corrected roadchips, reapplied sound deadener and anti-corrosion waxed,..." before fitting the motor :D
@PiDsMedia that's what I was thinking also. I would have pulled the engine,trans and all suspension and cleaned the frame. Then do the rear suspension mods then pull it apart to paint. Next would have been the front suspension after painting. Engine last as there's a lot of weight with it and without the rear suspension and bed it could have tipped the truck off the lift. Did you also catch the right front caliper hanging by it's hose? Later it was sitting on the frame.
@@baileydbenson1 Not about 'show', about 'doing the job properly'. These aren't parts anyone else will see, only the person who's done the work will get to appreciate that it was done correctly.
Listen, if someone is watching this to learn about a custom cantilever rear suspension, I think you can forego how a lubricant spray straw works. Just saying...
The way you did the rear suspension is a waste of a truck not to mention that cantilever setup is going to stress there pivot mounts big time the way you did it ever see a mount fail that is responsible for holding a vehicle up. Should have engineered the cantilever setup parallel to frame still have same function and and not side load the pivots as the rear-end torques. This also would alow to mount the pivot below a mount so instead of pulling at mounting it is compressing the mounting. Lastly this would have give full use of bed and a much stronger longer lasting setup.
@@robertbrown9122 correct, but they didn't use a floater. They used a standard Ford axle with press on bearing which is inferior when used for track duty.
@@robertbrown9122 let me explain further, with a floater setup the hubs ride on snouts welded to the rearend housing and attached with a large retainer nut. On a standard housing if you have an axle failure the entire wheel assembly will come off, whereas a floater will not. A floater is like what they run in nascar and other short tracks around the country.
Just for future reference, avoid heat hardening driveshafts by using a grinder like that, they become brittle. Try using a liquid cooled bandsaw for the initial cut or just ask a local machine shop with a proper lathe.
@@bradenkowal8117 That may be true, but doing the wrong thing, even on bad parts, will just force the habit and you might end up breaking your new parts because of it.
Why not upgrade the steering with rack and pinion as well? Sorry if that's a goofy question but I've watched tons of obs and nbs4x4 videos and NOBODY EVER attempts to install a rack. Take 4x4 nbs for instance, all it would take is the 2wd nbs rack and sway bar and lower universal on the steering shaft. As long as the rack was perfectly centered, and you relocated the frame mounts for the sway bar, it wouldn't really be a whole lot of modifications
I hope when you finish welding up all the new suspension plates you take all the nuts off and replace them with nylock nuts and hard face washers. At the very minimum you fit tho old nuts and spring washers.
You can always use a regular ratchet wrench / breaker bar on those lug nuts instead of the impact, then tell us you are not suppose to use the impact..
I would think that triangulating the lower arms would eliminate the need for the panhard link and the resulting yaw movement of the rear axle as the panhard moves through its arc. I know its minimal but, at speed through a bumpy turn, it might be enough to affect handling ever so slightly.
Encore applaudissement sur vos modifs'cars& mécaniques j'aime vos façons2 trouver solutions à 1 reparation'compliquees où adaptées pieces carrosserie& mécanique introuvable pour les véhicules à réparer où à adaptées pour qu'il sort du garage& roule en toute sécurité en tenue2 route??
Never tighten up control arm bushings in the hanging position. It puts the bushing in a bind. Always relax the bushing and set to normal operating position before tightening
You're not supposed to torque up bushings without weight on the suspension. Nobody would care for some shitbox, but you guys are building this thing up pretty hard for handling... Also how come a Panhard bar instead of a Watt's link?
I wish yall would post up what specs on the axle housing etc.. Also the wheel specs too, some of us out there are doing something similar and your specs gives us a good idea of what to expect. Other than that awesome work! Love the show! Thanks for sharing! I have the same truck per se, Mark 3 conversion stepside painted destroyer gray, t56 swap, 7875 gen3+built LQ4, just gotta rework the rear and suspension and get away from the 454ss wheels I got on and move onto something more tasteful and wider/taller along with a brake upgrade!
It's easier to do the mock up before painting. Just in case something doesn't fit right, they don't have to waste time grinding of the paint, then repaint again.
Cutting axles with a cut-off wheel,... Did no one suggest putting it in a lathe and doing the job properly ?? FFS, you can see in the vision the cut isn't square to the long axis. And, why were they not measured with a spacer that matches the backing plate for the brakes? There's a high possibility those axles are not fully engaged on the splines now.
Hey powernation...I have been a Chevy, GMC, BUICK, CADILLAC, PONTIAC, anything G.M, since I was around 10 ish, as well as my father was, now after been dedicated to the G.M FAMILY for 40+yrs, I have no idea what "O.B.S" means🤔, on that Chevy truck🚚, also what do the LETTERS..."L.S" mean, YOU would think I would know that, well I don't.🤪
@@4x4Mudmaster powernation ty fer the reply I appreciate it, we live up here in Ontario Canada, about 1.5hrs west of Toronto Ontario, were on a city called guelph, ...if u cant say it...go-well-elf. Watching you guys for over 20yrs love it
What dam shame God dam can someone do up one of these trucks without lowering it. Not everyone likes lowered truck's ! I personally hate them think they look like complete ass and frustrates a guy seeing the frame of a classic being butchered!