Originally there was only the one breakwater forming the south edge of the cut. The wave bounced off it and went south, straight down the beach. The wave went for ages. It was an amazing wave which attracted crowds to the area, all the while they were trying to create a subdivision.. so, quite purposefully, they put a second breakwater in which killed the beach wave totally. At 4.55 the camera points toward what was the beach... thats the second breakwater
i hate to say it but people that grow up here and surf wedge all the time dont develope on the face line drawing skills and style. its just takeoff to instant perfect ramp. over and over
