Inspecting and Cleaning Milsurp Firearms 

Babe wake up Rakum Projects posted again!!

If the slings are original to the rifle instead of throwing it into a parts bin its probably best to keep it in a designated bin or area and labbled with a tag or painters tape with the model or sn of the rifle to not get it mixed up. Love the videos!

Star Super B is not my favorite Star just because of that noted mag safety… Star BM is my favorite Star… I will say the Super B is clearly easier to tear down… pros and Cons… Another wonderful video. Thank you! Sooo much work that is appreciated!!

I completely agree with your philosophy of not restoring a firearm that has history to it. I also dismantle these firearms due to the need to safety check them and confirm functionality. Prior to dismantling them, I photograph them so I have a reference. I then check to determine if the serial numbers all match since this helps to determine the value of the firearm and if i should replace any parts. I then conduct additional research to make sure that any work I do on the gun will not detract from its condition or value (example - if you encounter an Arisaka rifle and the receiver screws are still staked, you do not want to dismantle the rifle). Since I have the firearm dismantled, I will deep clean every part which forces me to handle and thoroughly inspect them. Once everything is cleaned using cleaning solvent, I wipe them down and then add a conservation lubricant like CLP to all of the metal parts. I will let them soak for 24 hours so the conserving fluid can bond with the metal and help to preserve it. Most of these guns have been abused and not properly maintained so doing a thorough conservation is important to maintain them in their current condition since many of them are missing their protective finishes. Wood stocks are examined for cracks and then thoroughly cleaned using cleaning solvent to remove the dirt, grime and old oils that cause the wood to breakdown and soften. After the stock has dried for 24 hours, you can rebuild the finish by rehydrating the wood with clean oil. Most of these milsurps utilized raw linseed oil as their original finish. I leave all of the dents and dings in them since these marks are part of the gun's history. My goal is to keep the firearm in its original configuration and try to return the gun to the condition it should be in if it had been properly cared for. Thanks for a good video.

Another great restoration 👍👍

Great looking rifle. I prefer the 1898-series of Mausers chambered in 8x57 but that, which I assume is 7x57, sounds amazing on the shoot.

Some saddle soap and some neatsfoot oil and that sling will look great. You'd be amazed at how leather can be saved.

Great video man I like that emotionless, monotone voice 😄

I can respect your decision to do as you wish with your collection. a good cleaning may be all that is necessary. Perhaps other collectors may have other issues that require more attention. I myself am of the opinion that a collector should do whatever they want with their collection. Most of us don't have the funds to be professional, so what we do may not be approved of by the tea and crumpet collectors. It's our stuff. When we are gone, it's someone else.

One of the best ways to quickly and safely clean a rifle barrel is to put a brass brush on a cleaning rod in a drill, this method gets 85-90% of the gunk out then follow it up with traditional method

Nice buys. I love looking for Mil-surplus firearms. Most of the time the actions are covered in heavy grease, and I don't buy. That Star is a sweet find.

Get yourself a Teslong borescope. They are very affordable. You can polish up the bore real nice with JB bore paste and VFG patches.

Hmmm, maybe I'll get a star. I don't have a 1911 like gun yet and don't want to store another caliber.

Good video

I wanted to see the pistol's barrel cleaned.

With all due respect, you really cant inspect the rifling by looking down the barrel. Pick up a borescope for 50 bucks if you have a large collection. Also, you don't put solvent on your patches? Run a solvent patch first, before your brass brush. Also use wax for your screws, not oil.