This channel focuses on collecting military surplus firearms. Their historical context, function and restoring neglected examples to their former glory.
DISCLAIMER All subjects featured on this channel are shown for historical and informational purposes only. All gunsmithing work is intended to restore the item to it's original condition, never modifying to serve any other purpose. In no way, shape or form is anything featured on this channel ever intended to be sold at any time. Any messages regarding selling a firearm, ammunition or an accessory will be removed. Everything shown is legal where the creator is located, please check your local laws.
Oh man, thats easy+ just go back in time 50 years and pick up a few bottom bin specials 😄 for real though, I know youll figure it out. Cant wait to see how she turns out.
Yes misunderstood and your video adds to that . The guides where first put on with wedge screws that were then ground flush . Later they used plug welds ground flush . There are German military documents that say this and have diagrams . NO rivets . The Gew-88 was not replaced as the primary rifle by the 98 until 1907 . The Germans used both the old P-88 ammo and the S ammo at the same time . The notch is to clear the old longer P ammo loaded by chargers . The S ammo was designed to be fired in the original Gew-88 , the S stamp just means the rifle was cleared to fire it and does not mean the rifle is a Gew-88 S . The Gew-88 S is different . The movable metal tab in the mag well is the interrupter . You should learn about a subject before youtubing it .
I think you made an excellent job of the bayonet. I have made a few knives by cutting and grinding the blades as I don't have a forge. I would love to have a go at a Damascus steel blade but I can't justify the cost of getting the stuff together to make it. Polishing the blade does take ages to do and I think even with a belt grinder there is still a lot of hand sanding to get the blade perfect.
Husqvarna kept on making guns up until 1989. Just remember that the calibre of the barrel isn't actually .50 when sourcing bullets, but .479 .41 old Swedish factory decimal inches. They repurposed the barrels from the 1860 muzzle, and 1864 chamber loading rifles in inventory.
The bore (groove to groove) on mine measures around .512". They did re-use barrels from older rifles, but this isn't one of them. Those are usually identifiable from the rear band being just a few inches ahead of the receiver.
@@rakumprojects Excellent! That definitely makes life easier for you I wonder what batch that was made in. I have rebarrelled one of my m/1861 rifles with an 1867 barrel and although it's clearly not a reused ML barrel, it is certainly in .479 bore.
US Infantry Weapons of the First World War by Bruce Canfield is back in print and available from a few sources online. The other two are out of print, you'd have to look for them on auction sites or at used book sellers.
I didn't want to try and fake markings. So it was either leave them as is or fill them and leave blank. Having the 1943 date on it immediately makes it known that it's a replica, which is what I want.
I would not be concerned about wearing the rifling out. but, you should use a solvent to remove the polymer coating from your rifle barrel. it WILL accumulate, causing higher pressures, and effect the accuracy. I do this (clean out the plastic residue) to my shotgun (plastic shot cups) and muzzle loading rifle (using plastic sabered projectles) after a long day shooting. It would actually be better to remove the polymer coating prior to tumbling. most polymers will dissolve with acetone. Which has worked for me. but I have come across some polymers that the only thing that I had to dissolve it was M.E.K. (Methyl Ethyl Ketone), THAT, is NASTY stuff!!! use it ONLY out of doors, with a fan blowing the fumes away from you at a 90 degree (at a right angle) to you, and wear chemical PROOF gloves. And MAKE CERTAIN that there is NO IGNITION SOURCE! M.E.K is both highly toxic, ESPECIALLY IF INHALED!, and very flammable. they do make a M.E.K. substitute, but I have never used it, so I do not know much about it. You are correct, this is a neat proof of concept experiment. BE CAREFUL, and good luck!
When doing a convex grind you can rely on the light reflections off the blade surface as a helpful guide. Mucho respect. A huge amount of work displayed here.
As a replica I think you did a bang up job. Well done. At least you're admitting from the get go that this is a replica and just for show, you're not trying for absolute authenticity and insofar making it seem it's worth an original price. Succeeding in making something for your enjoyment and knowing it's all your efforts is all part of the fun.
