Had a random call at a cattle ranch a few weeks ago and had to replace one of those 208/240 coil contactors on a similar unit. I'd picked one up by accident and decided to keep it "Just in case", glad I did - quick and easy fix and the customer was happy. Saved a two hr round trip drive to the parts house too! Def worth it to keep one on the van for out-of-the-ordinary calls.
Nice work Dave! That looks like one of those Norlake units. They always freeze up because they're not built to handle opening and closing all day long. You'll see them in Subways and a few other establishments. What you've done also works on R-22/R-407C units as well, as they also tend to ice-up because of the operating pressures/temperatures and people going in & out of them constantly.
Those units wouldn't survive one day in an attic here in Florida. I can't believe they put those up there. What a pain in the ass!! Great video brother 👍
Nor Cal, correct me if I am in error. The way I understand your wiring in of the defrost timer in this video is that you wired in contact No. 2 and 4 of the defrost timer in SERIES with the cold cotrol contacts, then used the output of the series circuit to bring one of the hot legs to the 208 volts contactor coil. Doing it that way means that the refrigeration mode circuit of the defrost timer needs NOT only contact No. 2 to 4 on the defrost timer to be closed, but it also needs the cold control contacts to be closed for the circuit to be complete on one hot leg. Of course, the other hot leg of the 208 volts is not on a switch. It's wired directly to the other side of the contactor coil. Wiring it that way means the contactor coil circuit is complete whenever BOTH the cold control contacts are closed AND contacts 2 to 4 on the defrost timer are closed. Also, the power supply for the timer motor is wired in PARALLEL with the line side of the single throw double pole compressor contactor. Did I get that right, sir? I had to think about it because I'm used to the wiring of pumpdown split systems where the thermostat output goes to a liquid line solenoid coil, not a contactor coil.
On almost all standard reach ins your thermostat controls your condensing unit. On small walk ins it’s also doable as long as the contacts in the thermostat can handle/rated for the compressors amperage.
The 9145/9140 series time clocks are nice. One of the key improvements with this model time clock is it keeps track during power outages. Once power is restored the timer starts ticking on time. This is key when your running more than one timer on the same box.
very good job dave 👍 most guys would of wired the clock without a contactor...glad you did it right. BTW...in california they call it a drop top unit....the rest of the industry calls it a capsule pack 😅😃....whatever....its still norlake garbage 😅
complete with leaking chinesium schrader valve, maybe it wasn't so easy after all. probably could have went one less wire by feeding timer first, then thermostat and back to contactor, unless it's shared power feed to evap fan/s! not a big deal since you ran liquid-tight and it was only a few feet of wire. I'm always looking for cost savings on projects, while not taking bozo shortcuts nor using garbage products :))
It took me a few moments but suddenly I could see it. The new timers orient differently. Also you have T1 and T2 coming too down. Also my walk in downtown have a terminal block not that it’s important but I thought I’d mention why I asked so many questions. I assume you didn’t specifically answer to protect yourself in some way. You’re too cool to just blow anyone off just because. I get it. Once I realized that the stat was all one wire the heavens parted and I could see the matrix. She’s working like a champ.
I'm trying to hook up a 120 volt unit. I got power coming in but I don't have 120 coming out normally closed or normally open in any position. That's brand new out of the box. I'm sitting here second-guessing my wiring but I mean it's got to have 120 coming in and 120 coming out somewhere and I don't see 120 coming out anywhere in any setting or location. Not out of normally closed not out of the normally open. 🤷🏽♂️ Fml
I dont know your first name so let me say this Im so estatic when I watc your video you explain everything to the best minimal camera movement Ive been an electrician since 84 and started doing AC Heat and refrigeration about 90 love to be educated in this industry in my opinion you area credit to the industry one problem could you tell me the lyrics in the intro cant understand and you always have something nice to say about the others on You Tube Thanks You Are The Best
I don't do refrigeration, but I'm fascinated by it, and have always wondered about defrost controls. If you have multiple power outages does that cause the defrost clock to gradually fall further and further away from the actualTime? So now maybe your defrost instead of being in the middle of the night is during a peakload time?
Sometimes you need to watch a few times until you get it. I see it now. L1-L2 off the terminal block to the timer. Jump off L2 to half of the coil. L1 through therm back to timer com and out NC back to coil. Fans powered on all the time on top. Therm, compressor T1-T2. Did I miss anything?
It’s amazing what difference a year makes but I get it now. My confusion was all in the defrost clock. Also you have the L1&L2 coming out of the block and into the contactor. The load coming out. The defrost clock is only responsible for the coil after it comes out of the thermostat. It only took me a year. Please forgive me Sensei, I was born feet first.
Will the fan on the evap continue to run when it goes into defrost? I want to recreate the great job you’ve done here. I have the exact same setup but I don’t understand how you routed through the contractor
Im a electrician on a construction site and the refrigeration technician told me to install this defrost timer with his Walk in freezer ,heat strips, thermostat and such. After watching your video it seems like this is the job of the refrigeration tech. In anyone’s experience here have you guys seen an electrician wire these up before or is that typically out of our scope?
yes electricians do it all the time. go watch my video on basic freezer wiring its easy after you see it once. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-7nXcPIFPJv4.html
Defrost mode 3 & N Refrigeration mode 4 & N Supply power 1 & N X terminal is defrost termination or fan delay. Land all wires in evap unit according to schematic. Your videos are great. I may ask the refrigeration tech to check over my work and allow me to wire it. But In the future I’d probably still let them do it seeing how it’s on the equipment side
Your using the defrost timer to allow more time between the intervals to increase the air defrost time that wasn't available with the cold control. Just guessing
@@NorCal-refrigeration i know all the problems digital controllers pose today. the good ole days. on or off. pressures and temps. i have been following your channel for a long time. keep up the good work. maybe we will be able to retire some day.
