You don’t want more articulation unless you replace the control arms. The factory control arms do not have the type of bushings that hold up to a lot of flex. The OEM control arm bushings will wear out after a few wheeling trips if you flex them too much. EDIT: I should specify that the factory control arm bushings are tight by design so that the Jeep handles well on the road. If you want a more flexible bushing, the Jeep is going to feel a bit looser handling wise on the road.
You don’t really need adjustable track bars unless you go over 2.5 inches of lift. With a 2.5 inch lift, it moves the axle millimeters off center. That’s not enough to really worry about. I’d still get it professionally aligned though.
Why do you guys disconnect so many things just to do that?? Is it so the customer thinks what they are paying is worth it?? I remove the lower bolt on the shock and sway bar and that it. Weird.
Yea not gonna lie this had me like ummmm is it not that involved? Bc I went from full confidence by myself for like 3-4 hours to thinking it’ll be a whole weekend. Ang better videos?
Jesus. I don’t know how you manage to add so many extra unnecessary steps while simultaneously leaving out some critically important steps. Good luck everyone.
He must have put that part in there just in case you don’t have a spring compression tool. It can be pretty damn hard to drop the axle far enough to get those new longer springs in there if you don’t have a spring compressor tool. If you disconnect the drive shaft, the axle can easily drop far enough to get those springs in without the compression tool. That’s the only reason I can think of.
