I admire you guys taking initiative making this video. First, that tool is called a Vernier Caliper. Second, the plenum volume, intake runner length and taper will make the most dramatic difference when it comes to performance. Not that small difference at the port entrance of the two manifolds.
Hey, I just did this swap today and I am having some issues. I have read through the comments on this video, and I see that you guys say that you used only one of the blue connectors at the back of the manifold. But then in another comment you say that you spliced the wires from both blue connectors into one. Can you please confirm which is correct? Thanks in advance.
David Guyton yes we went over and connected the two blue wires together if you want message me at Apex.s550_ and I’ll send you a link of everything we did
For anyone who comes across this, I installed this intake with the IMRCs, just like this video. The wiring diagram is correct, and like Apex 310 says in the comments, the blue connectors should be spliced together. HOWEVER, the tuner I chose (VMP) did not tune the car for the IMRCs to operate properly, and they are causing a hard miss. I also do not feel a power increase over the stock intake/CAI/tune. I spoke with VMP and was told that they are still working on getting the tune right for the IMRCs to work (???). I am having them revise the tune to lock out IMRCs, rather than pay another tuner $300+ to retune the car. If you intend to keep your IMRCs, pick another tuner besides VMP. I waited 36 days for them to deliver a tune that doesn't work, and now I have to wait for them to revise it. Who knows how long that will take.
Still having CEL issues with this car? If you look at the wiring schematic, you wired everything backwards on the second time. 1 is where you say 3 is and 3 is where you say 1 is. Look again at the schematic, there is a notch in the plug and its near #1 not #3.
Do you realise you had a section of soldered wire exposed? Ideally you shouldn't solder the wires. Brass crimps and the adhesive heat shrink tubing is a better way to go and limits the virtual battery effect you get with solder.
Juan Danny Lopez that is a good question, personally I do not know but I would check which one has a bigger diameter and go with that one! The more airflow the better lol
get the 2018 pmas intake. they are the same only difference is the rubber coupler on the 18 has a bend(like a 30degree). Without the bend your hood wont close. and to find a coupler with that bend and that reduces size, is hard to find.
because you can gain 20 plus wheel horsepower through a large part of the power curve and even more above 6800 RPMs where the Stocker shuts down and it cost like 500 bucks shipped already ported and Polished and everything that is insane bang-for-the-buck
Lol since your in SoCal I should pay you to install brother 😂. So I’m long tubes and cat back rn. I only need the pmas, manifold and injectors / lund tune and I’m Set.
LoL add me to the list. I am in the IE but will drive anywhere in socal. I have 17 gt base with PMAS , MBRP Catback, Lund Street tune and my E85 tune should be ready Monday. Question for you did you use Ford Plugs or did You go with a wiring harness from somewhere like EDOTech or hell horse. Also did he get the P2007 code since the install? I am looking to get stainless Power headers and the 18 manifold but I keep seeing everyone getting code without locking out the imrc's.
or, you can buy the plug and play connectors for 60 bucks. or even better you can buy imrc lock outs for 50 bucks and just zip-tie that shit out of the way.
Correct! The lockout kit will make things easier and will not have to plug in any of the wires that I disconnected behind the manifold. Just make sure you tell your tuner
Michell Lopez that’s strange, the 2018 is a lot bigger than the 2015/2018 mani and from what I was told Lund does tune for it but when filling out there information sheet they want you to put down gt350 manifold in the listing!
Yeah, I noticed all the vacuum lines routed wrong also. I was really hoping you all found a way to route them and get everything to work correctly. I installed my intake manifold 3 weeks ago on my 2017 GT PP (keeping IMRC functioning and using plug and play harness). If I route vacuum lines as they are supposed to be, I can't get the IMRC's to open, and it creates a vacuum lock between VAC 1 port and the break booster line... If I swap 2 vacuum lines (as suggested by VMP) around on the passenger side of the grey & black "dual check valve lines" (swap top to bottom and bottom to top passenger side only), then my IMRC's work correctly but I loose my power assist breaks (because it's not supplying enough vacuum to the booster this way). VMP has been awesome helping me try to correct this issue (they confirmed all my vac lines, wiring harness, and tune was correct, but still not operating correctly)... So I finally called them and ordered the lockouts and a tune revision. Keeping the IMRC's is not worth the hassle. It seems to be a major issue with the 2017 model's. The tune revision is complete... just waiting for my lockouts which should be here in 2 more days. VMP has the best customer service IMO, and they wrote the tune revision with in 30 minutes of me getting off the phone with them. Even though VMP and myself tried everything possible, we never could get IMRC's to work correctly and keep power assist breaks also. Bummer, but not the end of the world.
Marquez Ward no It is not, he upgraded them to run e85. You can run e85 on the stock injectors but they will end up getting clogged. As long as you clean the stock ones every so often you’ll be fine!
the stock injectors wont flow enough to run full e85 the most you can do is e60. i dont believe they will get clogged ive ran e50 for months no problem
You only need to upgrade stock injectors when you get a different manifold , you can run full e85 on stock injectors on stock manifold without any problems of clogging or any of that.
