Torque Converter Spacing... Stop Thrust Bearing Failures! 

Yes sir!

Thanks

Adding the meat plate requires the torque converter to be a little taller. Or you can use washers or shims between the converter and flex plate, as long as the clearance is correct. But you have to be careful that the snout of the converter does not pull out of the crankshaft too far. Usually the driveshaft does not have to be shortened unless it was borderline too long to begin with. Most mid plates are .093-.125 thick.

Great, easy idea! Thanks

Nice! Didnt think about that!

It cannot bottom out in the crank before the pads on the converter touch the flexplate.

Yes, a lot people bottom out there. .150-.200 is what I like on that gap

Try stacking washers 🤣

@@nsboost Why would I do that and not just get a spacer that is the thickness I need? If I absolutely had no choice, but to use multiple washers which I've never done I would probably super glue them together.

That is too close for sure. You need to also check where the converter pilot slides into the crank. You can add a .060 thick mid plate style spacer.

Make sure the converter is pushed all the way back in the trans. If it is, and it still hits. Either the flex plate is wrong, or the converter was built for a mid plate. I would not just use spacers. Buy a mid plate, cut it down on the outside so it’s just a spacer plate. I have done that!

From what I have seen, most torque converters are balanced neutral. But yours could be different. I don’t know, good luck!

@@TurboJohnRacing Thank you for this. Your comment nudged me to to find better clarification on a few terms. You can probable help. So, the torque converter and the driveplate are both a part of the transaxle and the driveplate is used to connect the transaxle (actually the torque converter, but transaxle generally speaking) to the crankshaft flywheel which is on the engine side. So, what I think I'm really asking but have stated it incorrectly due to lack of experience/training is: How do I ensure that the driveplate is correctly aligned with the crankshaft flywheel when I lower the new engine down on to the mounts? **I believe this is more accurately stated** In your video, you show demonstration of using feeler gauges on the transaxle side but I won't be going into there, those spacing should remain appropriately spaced - in my case, it's a matter if ensuring the driveplate (on the transaxke) aligns properly with the crankshaft flywheel (engine side). Does this seem remotely close to being correct and not too mentally insane?

I have a 318 And I got a spare engine and disassembled it to see that the thrust bearing was wearing into the crank. ... I don't know what this dude talks about saying the bearing is gonna come out of the crank...It would have to wear down 1st and if it was that tight he wouldn't be able to put it together Without noticing. ... I think hes working on a Chevy those are kind of different And a little more like toys. Chevrolet's are fragile because they have independently adjusted rocker arms And also the time in cover issue with the oil Pan lip crap. Dodgers really do run for a long time good and won't break down like Chevy's, I don't think what hes talking about the placement of the placement of the torque converter changing once you remove it and just put it back in the same that it's gonna be different.. That's what Chevy people have to do I guess. Too bad K mart's closed you used to be able to buy all kinds of small block Chevy parts in K mart. Next to the toy section.

If the converter did not change, then yes. You should need spacers between the converter and the flex plate, the same vs thickness as the midplate. But be careful, the pilot of the converter doesn’t pull all the way out of the crank.

Pull the converter all the way out of the transmission to make sure the converter pads touch the flywheel, then push the converter back into the transmission all the way. Now, you have to measure the distance between the converter pads and the flex plate. If the distance is .125 to .187, then no spacer is required.

Use feeler gauges, then measure thickness

Yes, get another spacer plate or mid plate. They sell them from .060-.250 thick

@@TurboJohnRacing thankyou. If I didnt have to space the dumb converter I'd be good. Now I have snapped teeth in the front drum where engagement to sun shell. C4 Ford probs! Thanks again I'll look it up.

You should be ok. .375 gap you have now. I would put .200 ish of washers stacked between the flex plate and the converter pads. Make sure the converter snout engages some with the crank.

@@TurboJohnRacing thank you sir!

The torque converter is bottoming out in the spacer. That’s bad. If you are action o car, I would pull it and change the snout on the converter or my machine it down .075-.100.

Yes

No it is the powerglide to small block Ford a bell housing. JW makes it.

We usually break them from too much power. In a normal car, I don’t know what would cause it.

I bet your missing a dowel alignment pin , if theres any slop when the engine twists it puts force on the flexplate causing it to break and bend out of balance and will eventually break from out of balance, I see it alot

Also check your torque converter and pump for wear again out of balance cracks flexplates, see people try to get trans in with converter still bolted or on s trans swap the dowel pin ends up in the old trans ,easy to check if its missing

She’s, 1/16 isn’t much at all but I guess everyone has a preference. Most major converter companies say .125-.187

Great tip!

Miziere is the new one. True billet, nice piece!

Flexplate = auto Flywheel = manual

lol, I struggle even with simple numbers

I’ve had no luck with that method, lol

For some reason thousandths has always stuck with me

Sorry, I tried to explain it best I could. What is the confusing part?

That sucks!