My dad is 91. In 1950 he had adapted an Olds V8 into his Hudson. He was drafted and sent overseas and his dad sold the car while he was gone. The Olds V8 was really a Hot Rodders choice back in the day.
The closest I have gotten to hot rodding in my life was 1/25, 24th. plastic models. In the old AMT models, all the engines fit in all the models just by putting them onto the standardized motor mounts! If you bought enough kits, you could put in whichever Olds, Caddy, flathead you wanted in thirty seconds. No mods, no fuss. If the real things were that easy, I might have gotten into that part of the hobby. Masterful job, Matt!
It is vary enjoyable to see you use a "old" chain fall. In my mispent youth I used one and with three 2o foot saplings chained together at the top was able to tow it around town as a portable unit to change flatheads. Actually had an arrangement with Sears to do some of their rebuilts "on site"
In the late 50’s I stuffed this same setup in to a 51 Chevy fastback. All the work was done in auto shop at Helix High La Mesa Ca Class of 57 Thank You
I was born in 1947 and hot rods were everywhere when I was in grade school. I had an older neighbor kid who had a chopped 34 Ford with an Olds v8. He had to cut out a good section of the frame on the right side to fit the engine. This was before headers were made. He would let me go cruising with him at night when I was 11. The thing was so flexible that the right front tire would float 2-3 inches off the ground at anything over 90. Rods were all lashed together pieces of s... chrome and metal flake were just in the magazines.
Looking very promising there, Matt. Whether or not it be a show car, I would dearly love the rear diff & axle housing & gearbox painted the same colour as the engine
I'm 15 and am building a 30 coupe on a 32 frame as a traditional hot rod and these videos are very informational and helpful for the average joe. Love this project keep on hot rodding!!
Hi Matt, This is something that has saved my bacon a few times. When dummying stuff up I use a twink pen (correction, whiteout pen) and write say in this case "Loose" on the flywheel, as you can come back to it a month later and bolt on the new clutch and think all's well when its not. Being a mechanic it happens when you are working on a job and wait for a few days or weeks for parts for something special. Then in that time you done more than a few jobs and just forget where you are at on that job. As for Aluminum flywheels on a light car yes they are ok but on a 50s tank may damage the surface and develop clutch shudder if given a hard time regularly. More so than a steel flywheel and if you go to a puck type competition clutch with a non sprung centre where its either in or out and with a higher performance motor. . . This is probably where some of the negative stories may come from. Weight, friction, more performance.
This has the potential to be your best project yet. The 324 can easily pump out over 300hp. 1956 heads are a must unless you go to high compression pistons. Gene Adams is the absolute master of the Rocket Olds engines. A one time neighbor of mine, Gene set records in his parents '50 Olds fastback. He developed so many "Tricks" like splitting the center exhaust port (We welded a piece to the header flange and shaped it to protrude into the port). This allowed 4 exhaust pipes on each head. I believe Gene now lives in Arizona and still dabbles in Olds Speed. Do you have a posi rear?
Your videos are great on this 32, I wish I would have had access to something like this twenty two years ago when I was building a chopped all steel 5 window that was a hotrod in the early 60's it had been channeled and when I bought it it came with a new frame and Pete and Jakes suspension. I built it into a roller but after a few years I fell in love with Muscle cars and a guy from Phoenix wanted it worse than me, I'm kicking myself now. Thanks for the channel and memories.....
Thank you for the update on the Schroll 1932 Ford Coupe ! Take care , stay safe and healthy with whatever you maybe doing next ! Doing well here in Kansas .
Love the way/angle the motor is sitting. Looks like it was made for the car! I hope the firewall set back will allow you to get the body in without any cutting!! Looks outstanding!
I always learn something valuable while watching your videos as well as being entertaining in this Covid world we must endure. Thanks for the IronTrap Garage stickers with the T-shirt order by the way.
Boy, in comparison to the Pagoda City Coupe and Free T the Schroll is going to feel like a Rocket. It doesn't take a lot to get 350 to 400 horse out of the Olds. Super excited to see you drive her for the first time!!
I’m really diggin’ this build. Thanks for sharing this with us here in RU-vid land. You opened my eyes on a few things I have to consider on my T bucket build.
Hey Matt Cool Video, Brought back a lot of memories from my youth. I remember putting several Olds engines in Hot rods. But as I recall we wanted to use the Hydromatic trans most of the time which ment even more clearance making. You might look into putting an electric overhead winch on your trolly. The old chain fall is how we used to do it but that electric lift is nice when you have to do a lot of in and out as you were doing on the Olds. Be Safe Well and Warm Everybody
you cant pull the trans off backwards in a stock 32 k member set up so no real difference there ! Loving watching this one come together. Chris in England
Man you going to weld on a bit of a hump for the front motor mounts if you don't like the double hockey puck look there? Love this combo with the old Rocket 88 Motor [it's what was done for sure back then]. :-)
Great camera, lighting and editing with music. You are doing a great job on the videos. Enjoyed watching you navigate those close quarters. Real world hot rod solutions fighting for every fraction of an inch.
Olds motor looks good in there! My 36 Chevy Sedan Delivery had one with Pontiac 4sp hydramatic transmission when I bought it. Drove it several years then the motor blew up too much adult beverages one night. Swapped In SBC 70-72 400.
Now the fun begins with the body and floor pans. To me, the toughest parts of a build is the body and floor pans. Especially if there is a lot of cancer.
Just recently started following your projects . Been doing catch up on a couple , got them sorted and can follow right along now . I wished we had access to U-Tube when i started working on old cars back in 1957 , things would have been so easy and not have to invent every thing we did . Great shows and will follow as often as i can which is all the time since i am 79 years old and don't have a lot of things to do than play with my 35 Chevy . Jim Collins Parma Idaho
Man that looks really bad ass. It fits pretty good too. Cool car for sure the carbs are going to attract some attention. They might even make it run better too.
In high school I had a J-2 Olds engine in a 57 98.Dad made me clean up the place (think Sanford and Son) it went to a landfill; far as I know still buried.
Liked and shared. I know this is your show, yet having another person there (in this case) would have been better for us viewers. Wonderful work, and while start up shows are neat this engineering is far more cool to watch. Thank you and hope there are no vibrations over 60 mph.
What do you think of profiling the bracket and shiming the motor mount pucks? Machine a steel disc 1/2" larger diameter than your pucks for the spacers (if the spacer is thick a slight angle could be added to the sidewall increasing the diameter). Scribe the final diameter on the bracket top flat then scribe angles tangent back to the vertical wall thickness triming the scrap? If you need an elongated hole (?) adjust the scribed profile accordingly. Your angle iron is fairly stout, others using lesser thickness may want to add a radiused gusset to the underside.
Exactly! You get that correct first, and live with whatever angle the engine is at when you are done. Using single-cardan joints on each end of the driveshaft, you need to have the same joint angle on each end otherwise you will have bad vibrations which will lead to premature u-joint failure.
The easiest thing to do is move the engine back until the pulleys clear the front crossmember. Notch the rear tail shaft crossmember . Firewall will need to be addressed about the back block clearance. ...........
