Installing a Lovejoy-Style Coupling to a Meat Grinder 

Thanks!

Thanks! Yes, getting a heater installed was a few bucks but it makes it much more pleasant to work in there. That, and the better half has a warm car to get into, which makes her life easier.

Thanks Tony, it was just the only way I could figure out how to mount the thing and make it run true. After posting it I found out those coupling systems are called Lovejoy couplings, wish I knew the correct name before making the video, lol!

@@EverettsWorkshop They're like a dog clutch on a 1949 HARRISON LATHE without the rubber lol...……………………..... Had/Sold the Tee shirt lol...……….

Thanks!

Thank you!

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Cool, thank you - I didn't know the actual term for what kind of coupling it was, all I knew is that my buddy Larry needed it fit to the end of the shaft. I've gotten comments about putting too much work into it, but he had all the parts on hand (former farmer) and just needed this fit together so he didn't have to buy a commercial unit. Besides, having a circle of buddies is what it's about - each one can help in different ways. Thanks again, this is part of why I put stuff out there - I am good with being corrected by professionals so I can grow. We are all still learning.

Hey, that works! Never thought of using a cordless drill, all my stuff is Ryobi 18V too. This little project really was just doing a favor for a friend - he was designing the setup and wanted to use a Lovejoy style coupler in his design. I totally get that not everyone has cheap access to this sort of equipment but on this one I wanted to give my friend a hand and thought it might be interesting for some other people.

Thank you, I do appreciate your kind words. Sadly I do not know Arabic - at times I question how fluent Google Translate is, and it would be the only tool available to me to do so. I've thought about subtitles for a while now and would gladly add them (I'm a language nerd and love learning about languages and how each one works) but it is a matter of time right now with work and a family. I can't promise anything right at this moment, but will do what I can :)

Como se llama esa pueza en español Por favor ayudame

Thank you Hamid, I admit this was an earlier video so it's not as refined as I would like it, but hopefully the coupler attachment idea is useful for you!

Thank you, I hope the video was useful for you!

It all comes down to the end user and the level of risk he/she is willing to work with. In my friend's case he was cool with running it with Lovejoy coupling to the jack shaft and understood that he's the designer and I was just fitting parts together to his design. He knows he is the one with the liability on this one, and he's also a friend I've "horse traded" stuff with over the years.

Yeah, sadly the lathe wasn't big enough to go over the auger flighting so i just had to do the best I could. We just wanted to retain the taper so it could be used at times with the original crank handle.

That makes total sense if you'll be using your grinder under power all the time - if you have a mill then a keyway to match the Lovejoy coupler might not hurt. We just wanted to be able to reinstall the crank if needed. Granted, one could make a new handle with a 3/4" straight bore too, so if/when I do this again perhaps the taper will be removed and a straight journal cut like you're doing.

Thanks, I didn't see the fully assembled unit after Larry put it together because he moved shortly after doing this for him. As for the KitchenAid ones, I've seen them and although I have a big mixer of theirs I don't have any attachments for the power take off at the front. As it is, it's glitching on the control switch so need to fix that so it can be useful again for its normal mixing functions. Even if you don't like how it grinds you'll really like the KitchenAid for all the other stuff it can do!

Just put a large pulley on it and use any old 1700 rpm motor with smallest pulley you can buy. Likely you can get a metric pulley to fit that Porkert shaft without all this work... ON EDIT: no you can't. The shaft is tapered and that big pulley would soon eat up the nylon bushing. Direct drive is needed @ 175 rpm.

That is a good question - to keep it still usable with the hand crank it needed the taper. The fit and finish of the tapers wasn't super tight tolerance from the factory but it needed a more precise taper to hold the Lovejoy coupling and not have too much runout. Thanks for coming by!

I've never tried making garlic paste with a meat grinder, but I think it would be worth a try. It would be interesting to try both the small hole plate and the large hole plate to see which works better. Thanks for stopping by!

Thanks Mumun, it's just one part of the whole machine that Larry was putting together. I wish I could have gotten a picture of the finished machine but Larry has moved away now.

Thank you for the kind words! I see what you're saying, but that's why there's a pin through the coupler and the tapered shaft end - he wanted the hole so he could remove the pin and then the coupler comes off the shaft to allow cleaning. Sorry if it wasn't clear why we drilled the cross hole. Thanks for coming by and sending me a message!

Nope, my friend's just running an electric motor through a speed reducer. Still wouldn't want to get your fingers in it!

Merci beaucoup!

E lectric motor 3e3

@@EverettsWorkshop on your site , BUT

Thanks! Unfortunately I didn't get any footage of my friend doing up his moose, and as crazy as it sounds he sold his home and business here in the area this fall and moved away. He did tell me that once he got the right belt reduction it worked quite well, but that's all I got from him. Sorry about the lack of action shots.

Thanks, but it was actually my friend Larry's idea to put the drive coupling on his grinder. He's got it up and running now through a reducer from an electric motor. Thanks for stopping by!

If you like paint and shavings in your beef

I have never tried to grind tea leaves, I'm not sure if this style of grinder would work

Wow, I haven't heard of meat grinders cracking before! Kind of crazy that yours did, but I can assure you that my buddy has had this one around for a while and that it is a Polish-built unit from an Italian company. I was curious myself as to where the Alfa's were made so did some research. Glad you found a better unit to replace your failed one. Thanks for coming by.

@@EverettsWorkshop well nice to know he has a better model than what I initially suspected after seeing the plastic bushing, somewhat rougher castings, and such. Actually cracks are not that all uncommon... me and wife have seen quite a few between the different flea markets we hit in our area and the models are mostly no-namers, rough castings, and have chintzy plastic bushings. The one we have has Made in Germany, very even castings, and a brass bushing which I initially thought to be oil lite brass but the seller said it couldn't be because it is use for food preparation and so why there are little groves around the bushing to add just about any type of cooking oil as a lubricant which is especially nice if going to power the grinder with an electric motor

Извините для мои плохо Русский язык, я ето учусь но ето медленно. Я не знал о сайте Avito до сих пор. Я пошел к нему сегодня вечером, и это круто, чтобы увидеть, что это продается в Подмосковье. Спасибо за посещение моего канала!

You got me curious, and I'm not sure where this grinder was originally manufactured, and my friend Larry has now moved away or I would have popped over to have a quick look. Something rings a bell about it being Polish, but can't be 100% certain. Glad to hear yours worked well for you, I just approached it in a way that worked for what we needed to do on his setup. If I do this again (and I might, it has crossed my mind but time has been very short as of late) I may even try a couple different things on one that would be built for myself. Thanks for your input though, I do like to hear other ideas as well on how to do things!

@@EverettsWorkshop All of these grinders without a name on them are Chinese copies of variable quality. I have been digging deep on the # 22 and 32 size grinders, and all the copies spring from the USA Enterprise and the Czech Porkert. Not sure if Porkert copied Enterprise or vice versa. Universal was a US made unit but I find them on E bay with the name on them but the sellers admit they are Chinese copies. When I bought my new Porkert #22 several years ago- and it was a long search - the box said made in Poland. ^The castings still say made in Czechoslovakia. Seems Porkert went out of business and someone in Poland picked up the equipment. Amazon has a Chard #22, Chinese, and wildly differing reviews. Its only $30 so I am getting one just to fool with. I found one more #32 made in Columbia [Odd] but reviews say it is really bad news, machining all off. Northern tool sold a good Chinese copy of a #32 some years ago and it had a 12" red pulley and ball bearings on the auger with thrust bearings. No longer available but I did find it for sale on Alibaba in China and many versions thereof. Here is an interesting one, dirt cheap, but $400 to ship here: www.alibaba.com/product-detail/No-22-Handle-Operating-Cast-Iron_60574510758.html?spm=a2700.wholesale.deiletai6.2.48165911tK2mJp I found a INA needle thrust bearing and thrust washer that fits perfect at ZORO [Graingers] for the Porkert, .875 x 1.125" for a few bucks. Had to mill a bit off the auger end to keep the length.

Hi William, I appreciate your faith in me but the thing is that I'm so far behind in the shop I think I'm ahead. There are a number of projects that are months behind and people waiting for some of them. That and shipping of a meat grinder would likely be cost prohibitive due to weight and I'm not sure where it would need to be shipped to and from. If you're not in a hurry and would still like to discuss the idea, by all means send me an email and we can figure out if it will work out or not. One way or another, thanks for coming by!

Thanks, my friend Larry was happy with it, that's what mattered to me

Larry ran the whole system through a reducing speed pulley system, so it slowed the grinder auger shaft down a lot from motor RPM's. It also needed to be slowed to increase the torque on the shaft for when he's grinding meat as it shouldn't be running too fast for that anyway.

These are Lovejoy-style shaft couplings. Not sure where you are but they sell them at Princess Auto here in Canada. In the US McMaster-Carr would probably carry them, otherwise if you're in the UK or Australia I'm sure a local industrial supply house could get you hooked up.

Thank you, I'm glad you could find it useful!

Merci beaucoup!

Yes, I live in Alberta. Are you in Canada as well?

I was just doing it up like Larry was asking for, and wanted to retain the taper so the original hand crank could be used. This meant the bushing needed a taper as well, even if we did cross-drill it for the quick release pin. The shaft end center wasn't on center sadly, and was threaded as well if I remember right. And believe me, Larry knows enough to keep his fingers clear of the intake, lol!

Not aluminum, but cast iron. Last I heard from my buddy Larry it works pretty well now that it's assembled with the motor and gearbox!

I just popped over to your video and you did an awesome job on your unit! I agree, adding that bearing would be the best way to go, if I ever do another grinder that will be the way I go. Thanks for sharing your thoughts and how your grinder came out, I like it!

@@EverettsWorkshop Thanks much, Starting a new build on an OLD Enterprise #12 with a SEW gear motor, direct drive. $1200 list, new on Ebay for $50. The castings from the 20's or 30's in these Enterprise tinned units are superb, especially the auger.

I thought it was a Polish brand. It works well, but that's not a huge surprise as most Polish equipment (including some of my favorite micrometers) seems to be of decent quality.

Lol, well, sometimes yes, but I've been that friend in need at times too - when I moved last I was "that guy" with the piano so I asked for a few extra friends' help. Thanks for coming by

Спасибо друг!

I'm sorry Achmad, but I do not understand what that word means. Thank you for coming by, though!

Thank you!

Well, it's only as dangerous as the operator and I know my friend has used other equipment on the farm and has not gotten hurt. You are right though, if a piece of machinery like this is not used carefully, it can be very dangerous for fingers. Thanks for coming by!

The powered grinders have deeper throat’s to keep fingers away from the auger! Hand crank won’t take a finger off , but this mod can and probably will.

@@videowatcher1040 it is about my reflexion about that mod, technically, this mod is fine but the danger of chewing fingers is very high as the throat of the grinder is lower than a finger lenght.

I know a number of people have said to not bother with this stuff, but ultimately it's what my friend wanted to do as he had everything else on hand from his spare parts pile, including the motor, belts, pulleys, etc. So rather than buy new he just wanted to make what he had work and asked a favor of me to adapt that coupler to the shaft. It works for him and suits his purpose, plus he can still put the crank on it if he just needs to do a small grind job. Would it be worth buying all the parts and doing this with new stuff? Definitely not, I totally agree with you there. But it cost him a total of about 20 bucks for the project, so he's happy. I do appreciate you taking the time to comment though, thanks for coming by!

For what it's worth, I would agree with you. As time has gone on I've tried to improve my videos within the budget I have to work with, and was continually adding light in my old shop as lighting was always a problem. I have since moved and, although the building out of the new shop has been moving at a glacial pace, I have more lights to put up and the walls will be painted this time.

Hi Hans, not sure what you were going to type, but thanks for coming by and joining in!