@@SundaysCatch I’ve been an apprentice to my dad for 3 years now and early on I thot securing flanges was overrated and didn’t do all that much… I quickly learned that’s foolish and take the time to make sure that bitch is solid now.
Encased in concrete there’s no point to securing it. The metal will rust/bend independently from the screws, so that doesn’t stop a thing. You only really need to secure it when it’s floating, as for between floors or on blocks. In a slab your not doing anything. Your not supposed to used the toilet bolts to lock it either, just get them snug. I’ve replaced countless busted flanges that were bolted down because someone over tightened them.
I always love people who take pride in their work. Even the little things like cleaning up the water with paper towels. I was always told if a job is worth doing it's worth doing right
If anyone reading this that is installing a new bath floor, no matter the material your toilet flange should always sit on top of the finished floor. This will solve so many headaches that could arise.
Thats so interesting, I would think you'd want it flush to the rest of the floor! Not planning on installing a toilet anytime soon so I'll 100% just take your word for it 🤣
@@elisasancho600 Yup, a simple Google search shows it that way for all finished floor surfaced. The flange molded into the base of toilet has a reveal to allow for that finished floor plus a flange. Follow that and you will be fine.
Builders of my home set it below the tile on a second floor bathroom. Guess what happened…twice. So after tearing out the sheetrock in the pantry ceiling which is directly below the second floor bathroom (genius floor plan), I finally got smart (thank you YT) and installed a flange above the tile. Frickin retards.
@@elisasancho600- If the flange is flush to the surface flooring the leak can occur below the surface level leaking beneath the top floor and rather into the subfloor and go unnoticed for a long period creating and easily understandable myriad of problems. Having the flange raise allows and seal issue between the toilet and flange like wax deteriorating in one spot allowing a partial glow each flush to spill over the flange and allow some of the waste water to escape the seal and escape, therefore leaving a portion in the back of the toilet free of caulk to allow the leak to pour out from the toilet base onto the top of the top floor gives you a visual indication there is something wrong with the seal between the toilet and flange (or otherwise and either way need to disassemble and inspect). Mounting flush hides it and creates subfloor moisture issues.
Perfect you took the extra step to anchor and this is the first flange ive seen done correctly which is on finish floor not below with 2 wax rings if it's done right you can use plan wax ring not extra thick or can't leak ring , 40 Master Plumber here 🤘🏼🪠🤙
Unfortunately cost depends on the state you live in. It’s an easy job for someone who knows what he’s doing but it is a skilled job. Break that pipe in the slab and the cost rises exponentially. Same applies if it’s on a second floor. To the average home owner I would say don’t try this at home.
I do not charge extra but I always put a price for the flange replacement before pulling the toilet just to let them know what it would be if it is bad. (You can’t tell until you remove the toilet). Prices very from state. The flange replacement here is around $500 - $800
@@theplumbersplungerDAMN! That's a hell of a lot more than I was expecting. Figured for that much extra work and parts it'd be like $25-50 MAX. How much does the toilet install itself cost without the flange? I've done several myself and my guess would be ~$150 since it's pretty damn quick and easy
@@NotMe-ej9yz With those prices no one would stay in business. The toilet install for customer supplied is about $300-$400. I work for a company and don’t set the prices but this company has some of the “cheaper” prices I have seen in my area.
For a handyman $150-200 might be typical. However, for a business/plumber you’re paying them for being experts. If you want an expert then you’re paying for their travel time, fuel, labor, parts, future maintenance on vehicles and tools … and more.
I recently redid my bathroom and installed the flange on top of the tiles, like seen in finale here. I have to install spacers on bottom because toilet doesn’t sit flat to floor. Is it the toilet itself or am I missing something? Using clear shims so it’s not a big deal but kinda frustrating ya know
What you can do next time your toilet is removed is put a straight edge across the bottom and measure how much room you have for the flange. Usually the problem is the floor is not flat.
What's the latest and greatest for tile over tile floors? Still using thick or doubled up wax rings or is there a more reliable long term solution? Wax rings onn2nd floor only lasted 4 years in my home and ruined a ceiling downstairs sadly
@@theplumbersplunger wow, thank you for responding so fast. I have replaced about probably 5 wax seals in my life and this one is giving me a hard time. I'm thinking about using the rubber gaskets instead of Wax. What is your opinion on wax versus the rubber gaskets? The bowl was filling all the way up and then just leaks out even with the new wax gasket I just replaced. I think the drain pipe is blocked.
The toilet in house I just got leaks damaged ceiling in basement when flushed - replaced the wax ring but still leaks, the repair guy put two wax rings and said it’s fine - can someone tell me do I need a plumber to raise the flange? The toilet doesn’t feel like it seals being set on one wax ring , but when there two stacked it feels tight- the floor is tiled , wonder when they roughed in the flange they did t raise it by 1/4 inch?
What to do when the wood is rotted and nothing to screw bolts into? A neighbor tried and got so frustrated he literally just put the wax seal on the cast iron pipe and no bolts nothing.. I'm beyond worried my toilet is going to leak...no funds for this senior 😢
@@michaeldudas7584 I'm from UK and thought why the hell is there no stub sticking up from the ground? Why is it flush with the floor?! It's asking for trouble.
As an electrician I have to comment. I see no gfi or arc fault protection. You didn’t bond the sweep and attached the ring without wirenuts or even electrical tape. This looks like hack work man.
@theplumbersplunger I'm just an apprentice, though am approaching 2 years, and my boss would have done the same thing as you only we use all plastic flanges and spacers. Though i think we use 4x3 flanges, where they fit inside a 4" pipe and around a 3" pipe. But you were helping the customer out with not needing to smash up the floor or underside ceiling, and the restriction doesn't seem that bad
