Installing a Rain Bird Residential Anti-Siphon Valve 

Great ideas for a more advanced installation!

That's over thinking it, overkill, over engineering counter productive, and failure prone anyway. By the time you finish that extra work I'll be on my third beer watching the game. The more connections you have in a system the more vulnerable you are to leaks, so use solid pipe as much as possible and minimize connections, and couplings use a rubber washer that will leak every single year, just like those stupid washer on the garden hose that i have to replace every year. highly annoying. Since PVC is so easy to work with, you can just cut the valve out with a vise style PVC cutter (5 seconds) and glue in new PVC stubs with a coupler. That's plenty easy enough to make coupler superfluous.

Attach the pressure regulator before the valve. That is, the water passes through the regulator, to the valve inlet, then out of the valve. This is shown in the booklet that comes with the valves. As for what height, it's 6 inches above the highest sprinkler head, as stated in the video. You might consider watching the video, it's educational.

Hi, thank you for contacting us. Yes, you can run a wire to the first zone then run the other wire for the second valve. Remember that the common wires can be attached together and run back into the timer and the "hot wire" for each zone has to run back individually back to the timer.

You can daisy chain as explained in the other comment, but you don't have to if that's not convenient. You can just run the ground and hot wires from the controller directly to each valve. It's just a ground wire, there nothing significant about tieing them together right at the valves as shown in the video.

The valves used in the video have a built in Anti-siphon device. That's why it looks like a twin valve.