The way that air plumbing used to be done in the interest of decent condensate management is to have all your long overhead horizontal runs with rigid pipe (steel or copper) at a slight slope, with a purge line descending at the far end. All your other descending lines (going to tools and outlets) would tee upward off the *top* of the horizontal runs and do an immediate 180 bend to head downward to the outlets. Whenever I see installations made entirely of flexible tubing, it seems like there are always problems with accumulating liquid where the tubing sags between supports. After the system has been in service for a while, try bypassing/removing the lubricator and just shoot a blowgun into your hand. If it quickly ends up wet, you're probably blowing a lot of collected condensate.
Great video! Having been in the auto repair industry for over 19 years, I can state that we did not have oilers in our air supply system. Per manufacturer specifications, any air tool that needs oil will work fine with two or three drops of oil added each day. This saves the cost and inconvenience of having an oiler in the air supply system. All the air lines remain free of oil. The most important piece in the supply system is the air/water separator. No tool or equipment should be used on a supply line without one of these devices. And yes, if you intend to paint with a spray gun, you should also have a particulate filter installed on that line. As to air pressure regulators, one must understand that dependent on the air hose i.d., there is pressure loss from the supply side to the device end. Having an air pressure regulator installed close to the compressor can make it difficult to maintain proper pressure for various tools. Most air tools work fine on full system pressure without issue. Our shop air line pressure was about 160 psi. at the compressor and dispersed over a 200’+ length of air line (black pipe). The only air tool that needs pressure regulation is a paint sprayer. This is best achieved by having the pressure regulator on the sprayer so that one can be absolutely certain that the tool is operating at the correct pressure. And to answer another question that was asked, no you cannot prevent moisture buildup in the compressor, tank, or lines with any type of filtration device. Water in the system results from compressing air to a high pressure - Physics 101. It would not be cost effective to “dry” the air entering the system. A system like that would cost far more than the compressor , all of the piping and air tools combined. ¼” i.d. hose should never (at least rarely) be used for any tool applications other than blowing off parts. The pressure drop over the length of the hose is too great. 5/16” hose is generally good up to 50’. 3/8” i.d. hose is the generally recommended hose for most uses. It is generally good for up to a 100’ run. Last, the overall performance of any system is directly related to the maximum pressure that is created at the compressor. The lower this is, the poorer the performance of the system will be.
LOL I was getting ready to comment on the lubricator. I dont run a lubricator just for the finish spraying part. My tools need lubricated I drop a couple drops in the air inlet of the tool itself that way all my air hoses are oil free as well.
For spraying paint you will still need an air filter/dryer and a regulator you don't do much spraying anyhow, as for the lubricator you may not like it because you will get oil mist coming out of your tools and possibly out onto your projects. Oilers are mainly designed for mechanics tools like impact wrenches where they require oil. Brad nailers and staplers like you are using are able to run dry air. You will find out when you try finish one of your projects with stain or paint and you say WTF why is there spots where the paint didn't stick that would be from the oil. Barely hear the compressor your floor probably vibrates a little when its running.
+Graveltrucking And to add, even those mechanic's tools can be oiled with a drop of oil every time you go to use it, as opposed to having an oiler in the line. The oilers are mainly for places like lube shops, where mainly people with not much care work, and can't be bothered to maintain tools.
My air nailer came with oil and says "oil daily" right on it. One of the duties of the oil is to prevent corrsion inside pneumatic tools from the moisture in the air. A few drops inside the tool is more than enough per day unless you are a production shop.
For spray painting, I'd suggest purchasing a separate filter only to separate out additional moisture/metal particles. Moisture can kill paint job just like oil will. It works well in my shop. Love the vlog btw...
thanks for the shout out - well done plumbing it all in - always having air nearby is handy to say the least - looking at your FRL, it is modular - it'll give us something to discuss on the next podcast ;)
+Trevor Martin that mean's she can run a t between reg and the lubricator for the spray gun so that it still reaps the benefits of having no moisture and regulated
Great video April! Thank you for your media content 🙏 To add to Nick's point about the paint sprayer consideration when constructing a compressed air system. Its important to still FILTER the air in the pneumatic system before it goes downstream into the paint sprayer tool. I'd you'd avoid any particulates making it into your paint, along with oil. Personally, this is why I'm not a fan of the all-in-one FLR products on the market these days.
My compressor came with a guide that shows branches for lubricated and non-lubricated tools when setting up a system like this. Good tip at the end for that.
Watching this kind of channel I'm amazed that no matter how well laid out a creator's shop is nothing ever comes close to Jimbo's Garage in my mind. And his shop is arguably the least fancy. No cleat walls or anything. Something about that shop just feels so simple yet perfect.
I was thinking the exact same thing. I would need a crate to step onto a ladder then a ladder to step onto the table then the whole damn thing would come crashing down.
Really hard core shops run two lines around, one dry and one oiled. First for paint, the second for tools. Some FRL's have a tap before the lubricator, that you can use for the dry lines. You should also have separate hoses for wet and dry air, as the oil will ruin any paint job.
They now have compressors that run at 70 dB instead of the older ones which sometimes run at over 100 dB. You could put one of these in your shop and it would be no louder than the one you now have in the other room. Don't forget to get some high-flow quick disconnects and fittings so that your air tools will run at their proper air pressure.
Shop tip. You can gain all that wall space back if you get a couple large tall tool boxes, then turn the wall space into a large shelf, for power tool storage, and parking for roll away tools. Cheers from Oregon
I believe April if you install another "T" fitting between the air inlet line and your f-r-l about midways and run an extension down towards the ground and add a 90 degree shut off valve, you have a more convenient and double duty water trap so to speak for any moisture from your air compressor as the moisture doesn't like to travel in a gravity defying upwards motion and most will collect at the shut off at the bottom of the extension. This also work very well for your future addition for the paint sprayer system on the other side and help keep the water out of your paint system. This will help keep your moisture traps more free and clear and cause less problems in case of foreign particles that may come from your air compressor as they will more than likely be heavier and travel down to the drain valve as well as the water. Love your vids and please keep em coming!
This is exactly what I was looking for. Thanks, April, for making it look so easy. You did a fine job! I have air filter, regulator, and desiccation filter because I want to sandblast so you have to remove any water from your line so it won’t clump up the media in your nozzle.
April, Wilkerson was a large manufacturer of FRL's, right next door to CA Norgren in Littleton Colorado. Great to see a woman doing this kind of stuff!
I'd move the oiler further way from the filter and drain, then between those items I would install a tee fitting. this way everything is filtered and drained and only the tools needing oil would get oil.
we have this inline filter that works via the moist air hitting a metal plate the water drips into a reservoir and the air flows on, the reservoir empties with the help of a float controlled Valve, additionally we have an electronically controlled Valve that opens at set time intervals for a period of time to empty the main compressor tank this is a great addition to keep your tank in optimal condition
I almost commented on the need for a line that isn't run off the FRL but I see you covered it in the end. That is SO important...you'll also like to use that line to connect a hose to if you want to clear sawdust (at a low PSI, of course!).
I've been looking for an easier way to plumb air in my new shop. I have copper from the garage to the basement, but didn't like the idea of having to install copper all over the basement. I ordered this system and LOVE it! Easy to put together, literally flexible too. Thanks for the introduction to it!
Good show. I installed piped air in my shop 25 years ago with black iron pipe and a reel in the center. Even though I have several wall outlets I use the reel in the center of my ceiling about 90% of the time. That's an interesting kit with the flex tubing. More than likely you will be draining plenty of moisture due to your geographical location.
Yes, you don't want oil in the lines if you run a sprayer, but you DO want to have a water seperator! The biggest mistake I see most people make in installing an air system is to not test for leaks with a spray bottle and soapy water. While many of your fittings are push lock and should be fine I would check them all. Air leaks kill compressors prematurely, yours is quiet so sound is not an issue but even a tiny leak can shorten the life of a compressor. A Red Sox shirt!!! I'm in love! ; D
Great video. That soft plumbing system looks way faster and easier than soldering copper pipe. A centrally mounted overhead air hose reel, and a power cord/worklight reel are two of the best things you can do for your shop.
I quick tip, you should put a shut off valve right at the point it comes thru the wall. that way you don't need to shut off and drain the compressor tank to do upgrades or repairs. great video. what was the overall cost to do this?
That's not too bad a price to pay. I really like to keep the air dry going to my powerplasma cutter. Ultimately it saves me money on consumables as dry air makes the nozzles last longer.
Saw the comment about painting. It is correct, but instead of adding a tee in the air inlet, just put a tee in the outlet where the gauge is and use that for painting. You will be able to use the same regulator. (Most painting will require a lower pressure so you will save the cost of another filter/regulator.) Great Videos, Thanks
Nice job, April. I did my shop at least 10 years ago. Here is a tip: Check for leaks periodically. I didn't do that and found my compressor kicking on to recharge the pipes when not using air.
I have a FRL where the regulators adjusts the pressure for the left side (without oil and with the drain) then goes to an oil free outlet and then to the oily right side that also has it's own outlet. So you have both functionality with a single FRL.
Nice kit April, Just as another suggestion when you install paint spray line make sure you purchase airline a completely different colour to your main airtool lines, I did not and paid the price a little oil mist goes A LONG WAY towards messing a stain varnish job...
I second the dual independent hose. Alternatively you can put the oiler near the tool. I have a shorter coil hose that I have an oiler on for my tools. If you keep the majority of your hose dry you can alternate at the end between dry and 'wet'.
i appreciate the addendum at the end regarding the lubricant issue with paint sprayer. Was thinking about that just before u mentioned it. thx for sharing
The Rapidair Master Kit is the best I've seen. Kudos to you for placing the compressor outside. This and the new distribution system should serve you nearly a lifetime. Another job well done!!!!!! ....13
It is great to have the AC out of the shop but don't let "out of site and out of mind" bite you... the tank(s) still must be periodically emptied of any condensate. Love the vids, please keep them coming!
I used to work in an autobody shop and we used air filters that could be attached to any line with quick-connects. We just used TP rolls as the filters and they could be replaced at any time. They were Motorguard M-60 filters. I have no connection with the company, but we never had a ruined paint job while using them. Also, we had dedicated hoses for painting, to be sure they were free of oil & water.
I use to have a bodyshop and water is your worst enemy you might want to put anther water separator in your T line but place it at least 5 feet from the main line from your compressor to collect moisture better. Love the system of fitting landline seems simple enough. Good job and be careful.
I learned so much from your channel --- I am a beginning woodworker and setting up my shop, watching a ton of videos on RU-vid and your channel is one of my favorites
My day job is designing valve/frl panel assemblies for customer specials. Hobbyist wood worker. Another option for painting would be installing a diverter block and shut off isolation valve w/gauge upstream on the first assembly. Your painting "FRL" supply line could then use a coalescing filter/absorber/regulator. If you're keen on safety, since your compressor is outside the shop, you could also consider adding a shut off valve of some kind (doesn't have to be an FRL style, 1/4 turn ball valve would be fine) before anything else on the inside of your shop. Edit: I would remove the lubricator entirely for a ww/finishing setup. If one of your tools requires lubrication, just add recommended drop count periodically.
Good evening, I had watched this video , I think a year or so ago, thankfully I found it again to show my son who is putting his workshop together and we were discussing what all we need to run air in the shop. Great video... thanks
I like the overhead reel. I have a one car garage sized shop and that would fit perfectly. I need to hang an auxiliary tank on the wall to increase the amount of air I have so the compressor isn't running all the time. Great vid.
You will love the convenience of that air system. Keep an eye on that oilier I had a cheap one and it dumped way to much oil. I generally just give my air tools a drop or two in the inlet before I use them. Make sure to drain your tank often being outside in all that humidity. That compressor is quite outside. Makes me wish mine was.
Good job April ! Just a by-the-way mention: @ Time 2:14 to 2:25-The purpose of Teflon tape is to lubricate the threads so the proper torque can be achieved, thus allowing the pipe threads to create the water tight seal. I realize it may have some sealing properties, though that is not it's purpose. I use to be a Quality Assurance Inspector on Submarines and Navy Diving Systems.
Lookup air compressor aftercooler ideas on youtube and google. There are many versions of the same thing, but the general idea is if you can cool the air temperature coming out of the compressor down rapidly, most of the water just falls right out of the air. The version I plan on doing uses a couple universal aluminum condenser units plumbed right into the outlet of the compressor head before the air goes to the tank. The air runs through the condensers. I'm going to add a cheap fan that is relay controlled to cool the condensers even more. At the outlet of the condensers, you run through an automatic drain air water separator and then into a check valve before going into the tank. This way you get all the water you can out of the air before it ever goes into your tank or lines for that matter. The air water separator has an automatic drain built into it that is basically just a spring loaded valve. When the line from the compressor head is under pressure that valve is closed and the water separator collects water. When the unloader valve bleeds the line down after the compressor turns off, then the spring loaded flap in the air water separator opens up and the water drains out automatically. I have seen versions of this idea where people go through 2 or 3 stages of vertical copper tubing. Copper ions aren't the best for your air tools. Also, in most designs they only get water condensation in the first stage anyway making the other 2 or 3 stages redundant. That is why I opted for the aluminum condenser version of this.
Very nice installation April. Your choice in locating the compressor out of the shop is something that will make working in your shop much more pleasureable, those darn things make way too much noise to be cozy with in the same room, a great choice April, as usual...
While not having oil for a paint gun setup is a must, you would want to have the moister trap in line so it can grab the water out of the line before mixing in your finish. I have separate setup and moisture trap for my spray line. Just a thought.....
Nick's tip is a good one but I would take it even farther and only have the oiler on the lines that actually need them like a line for a nail gun. You could take the oiler out of the main system. Oil is not something you want coming out of your general shop air for blowing off saw dust. Also if you find that some of those taped joints leak it is because you need to have several wraps of that Teflon tape on the NPT fitting (think like 3 to 7 wraps). You should go around and check for leaks using bubbles like from the Dawn foam hand soap dispenser. If you get it so there is no leak, you will hot have to have the compressor run every time you turn it on. Nice video, thanks.
Actually if you need 7 wraps of teflon tape you need to stop buying the cheap stuff. Or get better fittings because pipe threads are designed to not need thread sealant at all. I was taught in the 70's, and it has always been my experience, that 1-1/2 to 3 wraps is sufficient. More than that and you risk putting the excess downstream when it shears off inside the pipe or you will have a big wad of tape sticking out.
Good info, we manually add 2-3 drops of oil to guns and sanders to maintain them and do not use an oiler on the air lines (oilers are ok in auto shops that don't paint). I would recommend a dessicant filter on the line that the sprayer will be tied to ( prefer it to be dedicated with additional filtration) clean, dry air is an important key for your finishes.
nice job April, just a quick note about the second line for the paint sprayer. your compressor will spit some oil into the lines while running, so you may think about another filter, then regulator and then hose, just to keep your finishes as awesome as your channel!
A "T" fitting may be nice but you still need the filter "dryer" to dry the air for the paint. It will do just as much damage as the oil. This is a common problem buying a kit. I know it is convenient but having all 3 pieces separate would allow you to put a manifold after the regulator and on used for paint and the second going to the oilier.
Keeping the compressor in another room is a great idea for safety also. Large shops with big compressor always do this because as a compressor gets old rust is a factor. The tank when compressed can explode. People have died being close to the tank when this happens. Since you have a small compressor its not fatal but still could cause injury. Also being far away from your work sawdust wont clog the air filter on the compressor.
A very nice workshop, even a big receiver for some quality music listening, all looks like you really now your stuff and what you want from it, loved watching every minute of this video whilst i was just searching on how to install a compressed air filter.
Hello, don't forget you will need a good line dryer for the sprayer. Especially if you ever decide to get a bigger compressor and want to spray with an hplv sprayer! They are fun to play around with!
If you put in a tee for painting, you need to put it between the regulator and oiler so the air has the moisture removed and pressure regulated for best results.
also another note on the regulator is that because its first inline you might set it to 90 PSI but because of pressure down your airline you might only be getting 80 PSI. also if your thinking of using air tools like a die grinder, ratchet wrench, impact wrench, da sander etc these tools all rely on free air so a 10mm ID bore air hose is needed, if your only using nail guns and tools that reply on air pressure only a 6mm or 8mm ID bore air line is ok. (would also need a 8mm ID bore air line for a HVLP paint gun)
Two notes. Even using a separate line for the future paint spray gun you will need a filter if not chaos will result in you finishing. The lines itself seam to have a small inside diameter (3/8 maybe?) which for high air volume tools (impact wrench for instance) may not be enough (the longer the line goes the bigger ID should be). Either way nice and clean setup.
You made a wise choice on the 1/2" kit. I installed the 3/8" kit, and the compressor has to work quite hard to supply air if you're using much of it. Were I to do it over again, I definitely would have gone with the 1/2" kit like you did.
Actually...now that I look at the link you posted, I wonder if I did get the same kit as you did. That's about the cost. What is the ID of the tubing you installed--did you measure it by chance?
Looks good. I really like your ideas of placing the compressor and dust collection out of the main shop....must be much quieter. Hope all is well with you and your family. Be safe - Be well
Hey April, nice setup. There is so many advantages of have a stationary compressor and airlines running throughout the shop, you will love it. If I could, I would like to caution the use of the olier. It's a great idea, but you will want a separate line possibly with a different style disconnect fittings for tools that don't require lubrication, for as mentioned spraying paints and finishes as well if you use a blow off nozzle to blow off any fine dust prior to painting. Oil and finishes don't play well and can cause a serious headache of problems. I recently went through this headache in my cabinet shop late last year, it made me so mad, I decided to share my experience and post a video (I think its called "Fisheyes in the finish") of it explaining in detail the cause and effect so other woodworkers might hopefully benefit from the information shared. Thanks for sharing. Scott
+The Wood Craftsman (puttz1976) That's a GREAT idea to have oil and non oil tools using different connectors. My first thought is that "I will remember" but of course on my best project, I would grab the oiled line and blow off the dust.
Like your video. Tip for you. Most of the air filter that I've installed it's recommend being at least 25 feet away from the air compressor so the hot air out of the compressor has a chance to cool down so the filter has a chance of trapping the water. And you should always run a water trap filter on air line that you want to use for your spray gun. Keep up the great video
Thanks. The two last things for a perfect shop, making it dust free, and having a good air system. I just ordered that same system, and i just watched your other video on modifying the HF dust collector. I love that you could be speaking to someone with tons of experience, or none at all. Super nice delivery, great video's. Still can't for the life of me understand how you get any 'dislikes', *sigh* but, Internet. Thanks again, will continue to check out you channel.
Good job. This is the way I set up my Champion Pneumatic air compressor. I use a lot of air tools. I have a separate small inline filter and dryer for my spray guns. I would hate to live without my air tools.
Great presentation. You'll still need clean dry air for that paint sprayer. If you run direct from the compressor to the sprayer the raw compressed air may have particles or other contaminants which in turn could affect the quality of the paint. Other than that it's a great little system! Have a great day!
very nice. I like how that kit makes it easy for the weekend warrior to set up in there home gararge. but it was always my understanding that Teflon tape is not a sealant but rather a acts as a lubricant that allows you to turn your fittings tighter allowing there natural tension and pressure to make the seal.
Have the same type setup with additional outlets. Only two problems I noticed 1) clips to secure the hose weren't included (Home Depot cheap source) 2) susceptible to temperature changes; if you shop varies a lot between Summer and Winter you may have to reseat fitting to limit leaks (though the leakage is small)
April, I suffer from severe neuropathy of the hands and feet. I have a complete woodshop in a three car garage. I don't get to work much in my shop these days so I always find time to swing by your site and really enjoy your creations. You go girl!
Thank you very much, April, Lovely concise video with very useful tips and hints. How lovely to see that there are more lady engineers doing DIY in USA than in UK. It seems USA prices are a lot cheaper than in UK. Please post a few videos on Routers and their operations. Love your workshop, thank you and best of luck.
This is really helpful, thanks for posting this video. I'm mounting a similar system on concrete walls and it was good to see that the tubing is taught enough to support its own weight without necessitating brackets every couple of feet to keep the tube on the wall
for smaller compressor, i leave the air release value open so the air can escape and if there is any liquid to drop out of the compressor. i havent had a problem with having water build up. im getting a dry warm air. i use it to clean computer parts once a month
Some thoughts on tank for compressor; It needs to be drained often as temperature differences in compressed air and outside will cause condensation. That said if you are considering spray painting a drier is very important to insure no moisture in your finish. Another point is larger nailers such as framing nailers need the oiler but as mentioned not needed for pin nailers. Moisture and oil issues in nailing like "Norm" did can leave oil stains or water stains. Nice choice in getting complete kit for install. Good luck!
Love the way you dig our your info and make a proper job of it. Let me add one hard-won subtlty of compressed air: the air needs at least 28 feet of hose after it leaves your air tank (before what you show in the shot) to loose enough heat energy to start shucking water (more is better up to 50'). And, sorry, I don't care what any dryer/filter manufacture claims, they will all be 'all that they can be' only after that water vapor has started to drop out on its own accord (call Campbell Hausfeld to get an Amen). It's cheap, it's simple, it's a 'just do'. Love your show.
Nice air system and some cool moves to get on that table....I would be on the floor in less than 5 sec's lol. Like that you only have a few lines. More lines and fittings more leaks. Center mount air hose great tip there to.
If you are going to add a T for your paint sprayer then you should add a second air dryer without the lubricator. That way your not spraying water from your compressor tank.
+RandomTorok that's why i bought the unit from harbor freight, the parts are separate... so i added the "T" after the regulator but before the oiler. does the same job, with the single unit.
You should actually take a line off of the FRL right in front of the Lubricator for paint spraying. There should be a means to do so just by looking at your air prep. Also if you do some really critical spraying, use an oil removal filter in front of the sprayer. Been in the fluid power biz for a number of years
nice you may want to look into putting an automatic blow down on your tank outside.these plug into an outlet and can be set for 1 time per day for a few seconds This will blow out any condensate that forms in your tank and prevent rust and .help out your filter and oilier as well as help when you spray.
If you plan on putting a Tee on your supply side airline for a paint sprayer , you may want to place a in line filter on it so it captures some of the moister.
Not that I see you going this route, but I use a CNC Plasma Table, and like a paint system it too cannot have any lubricated air. Good install video! Thank you.
Just some things to think as bout when running a shop sir system. 1 place a T after the Filter and regulator this way you can run a lubed and nonlubed line if need be. 2 you should make the air run a loop. so more that one air position can be used without severe pressure loss. 3. I would recommend pruning non lubed and put a lubricated single reel or 2 at most inside the shop. 4. Run a length of pipe/tubing after every vertical connection with z ball valve to store/purge fluid from the line.. 5. it is best not to run an air line below ground as you cannot get under it to purge it and you have a bunch of head loss going back up.
I've been watching your workshop develop in so many ways whilst mine has been static. . . Time for a mid-year resolution as soon as I get around to it. . .
April we need more build videos these shop ones are informative but I subscribed to see what you build next, to watch your love of wood work not to garden, answer questions and fit air lines 😭 😂😘
I work on what I need done in my life and I bring a camera along. I do not only have a passion for woodworking, but improving my space which means a large assortment of videos. Feel free to skip the ones you are not interested in, I have plenty of build videos planned.
Very nice set-up! I used the Harbor Freight version of this with good results. The main difference that I noticed is that the Rapid Air kit has tubing that seems more flexible. The HF kit tubing was quite stiff. In fact, I uncoiled it and let it sit out in the sun for a while to make it manageable enough to route it. It made it a little more difficult but it still worked well in the end for me.
I realize this video is over 5 years old at this point, but I would've liked seeing the system in use after the installation; just like a small demo. It is, in a way, the most satisfying part of doing something like this. :)
