Installing AC Condensate Drain With Clean Out Port 

For sure. Lines aren’t insulated either. Condensation on them with the cold water draining will drip on the floor

For a negative side installation 🤔….. i dnt think so. Referencing the “always” part.

Same issue! They sent the condensation line directly under my mobile home 🙄 now I have to figure out a way to NOT have it drain directly under my house (which causes musty odors and mold!) Never again will I use Home Depot subs! The water heater installer I used through Home Depot also put the t&p valve directly into the bellyboard under the house! I never knew it was leaking until I had to go under the house for another issue and found the bellyboard nearly touching the ground because it was full of water 😢 Such a waste of money!

@@ejanekendig1984 Sorry to hear about your particular Home Depot "nightmare". Too late I discovered that a faulty installation only brings more problems...which seems to be your situation, too. Hope you will be able to decipher and correct it. RU-vid is such a learning option, This is a photo of my fixed line: drive.google.com/file/d/1Cqmq39M3IuOp5OQ7CHeM5gX9V7do1rd3/view?usp=sharing

Oh no! Home Depot work is always a disaster. I stick with the smaller shops whose owner is directly involved. I'm sorry for everyone who's going through this..

Glad it helped

@@howtohvac3234 thanks for posting the video. I just had the same drain setup and now my bathroom sink is gurgling whenever the vent or AC is on. Will adding a vent to the drain line help resolve the problem?

I am in the freeze zone. Yet by the time my attic gets that cold the trap is usually dry. Yet because I am in the freeze zone I always have a clean out port on top of trap. This way on maintenance I can send a gallon through. Have seen drains that sag or run flat freeze. Pvc traps almost never freeze yet the clear easy clean traps seem to freeze and break. Prevents an angry customer when they start using ac and water comes through ceiling.

We need them. Work in very dark places often

If you are talking about the flickering, that is probably because it is LED. You can't see it with your eye, but you can with a camera.

Hard to find good help these days. Sloppy and cutting corners.

My unit was installed just a couple years ago and there is no P-trap. The P-trap does not help prevent buildup, does it? How? I thought it just prevented gases from coming in? Yet, in this case, there is no gas. It’s just the outdoor air for me because the condensate drain goes directly to the outside outside. Which begs the question, isn’t it pointless for me to have a P-trap on mine? I definitely want to add a Tee clean out!

Glad you enjoyed it!

I was wondering the same thing!

I put a clean out on every unit I work on. It makes it easy for me to clean drains on my maintenances. Keeping drains clean is one of the most important part of maintenance. A plugged drain that ruins a ceiling cost me money. I install clean outs for free on all AC systems I service. I charge $120 an hour for service. That is the average labor rate in north New Jersey

@@howtohvac3234 good decision & worth it.

@Dan Burch from my experience and knowledge of being in this trade I can tell you that it's more of bad practice on the installer's part of not putting one. I myself make sure to put one on every job that I do an install on just because it makes PM so much easier and also makes the service go by faster so I can move onto the next call. I don't think it is on purpose that one doesn't get installed, just more of a bad practice on the installer's part ( maybe the installer doesn't do service's or PM or maybe they had a new hire do the drain to wrap the job up and it got over-looked before they left the job ). Im pretty sure this one wasn't done on purpose so they would get called back a year later for when the drain gets clogged. *Just my thought on your comment *

Hi, Christopher, if I only have 1 vent, before the p trap, do you recommend leaving it uncapped even if there is cold air loss? I was worried about losing too much air into my attic so taped the vent shut, but I think that is resulting in water backing up because now there is drainage coming from my secondary pan when there used to not be any. Any thoughts would be appreciated!

@@joicebass3725 the reason you have water backing up is because of the missing open clean out after the ptrap, thats why technicians should get in the habit of having 2 ts,. The one before the ptrap should always be capped. See airhandlers are negative pressure, because the motor is above the coil, so when system is running it tends to suck air,not allowing the system to drain properly. Have a company come out to install a t after the trap.

Thank you for the tip. I've got to call to repair a drain line

@jodeci8883, I had the same thought, and was going to ask this question... Hopefully we'll get a answer. :)

If they're honest, they'll recommend it. If they're not honest, they won't say anything because they know they'll be back.

Do you use the primer?

@@ABC2007YT no

I like the reme halo. Put many of these in. The guy I deal with at my supply house talked this one up. Took him 3 weeks for me to get this back in early April 2020. Easy to put in yet unit wasn’t cheap. There is a newer LED version of this UV lamp. I keep my fan constantly running to help clean up the air of dust and any bacteria, mold, or germs. It sterilizes or kills viruses.

A secondary drain could be a drain pipe from pan out of attic. Yet in many places a drain overflow switch, can be used instead of secondary drain. Damage from a plugged condensate line falls on the homeowner, or the company performing annual maintenance on the ac system.

@@howtohvac3234 Thank you for your prompt response! Are the installation contractors responsible for damage if the manufacturer's installation instructions were not followed? The secondary condensate drain that should have been installed to carry water out of the air handler and into the emergency pan was never installed.

@@howtohvac3234 Your secondary condensation drain is still plugged. It is the red plug just to the left of your primary condensation drain. This secondary condensation drain should carry water out of the air handler's internal pan and into the emergency pan when the primary drain fails. Both drains should be properly trapped. The drain from the emergency pan to the outside is a separate drain tube that will carry water out when the primary fails.

There is a float switch inside the emergency drain pan. You really don’t need to send a secondary drain on the unit into the drain pan. The drain pan crumbs you really don’t need to pipe secondary drain off the unit into the drain pan. The drain from emergency pan overhangs the gutters. Therefore, if water is leaking out the customer knows to call for service. Yet if both drains back up then the float shuts down the ac. The float is the third safety. Many nj inspectors will fail jobs if emergency pan isn’t piped

Still want the fittings sealed. Water can leak out of unsealed fittings. Think of what the pipe looks like inside the fitting. Water will find a way to leak through anything.

Whoever installed it probably burnt it

In happened to a furnace I had at work in Canada. After some discussion I added a small AC pump heater to the replacement, if I recall it wastes about 8 watts but its never happened since.

If it's ur house,you shouldn't care..only if it's not urs

If you have a tee on yours like he installed on his, it should definitely be capped. You can look up static air pressure. Basically it will pull in air so much that water will stay in your pan and potentially overflow. As far as the air compressor, I feel like that is preference based. In my opinion air is a quick solution to get it clear, but flushing with bleach or vinegar will probably suit you better.

Use vinegar instead of bleach

That is true. DO NOT copy this install. You need a vacuum breaker downstream of the trap. Otherwise just like holding your finger on top of a straw. It will not drain properly.

You got that right

Maybe the vent is further down around the corner . if not he is an idiot

I didn’t install this unit but inherited it. The drain pan is junk. I remember when I came out they swore you could run it over with a van. So many of these pans cracked over the years. I need to redo my ductwork. Yet m planning on getting ride of this ac and putting 2 units. A first floor second floor system. Just the owner of this system is cheap and wants me to work for free. Therefore when I finally have time I will get to it. Most drains gunk when not cleaned out for 9 years. I am most likely hanging the systems one over the other when I do install the new units. To have more attic space. For this system I have to up the return size. 14x30 is too small for a 4 ton

@@howtohvac3234 I lent my hand for the return of grace many times in my career. Right now you have ability, but it will not last. Getting paid is the real trick of the trade. No good deed goes unpunished. You are on the right track with R/A. Deeper R/A cans help (22") and come off the side with the flex. The 14X30 was so they did not half to head out the stud bay. HA! There is a right way. There is a wrong way, And there is a way to make money. Being the guy with the wheel barrel and shovel behind the parade never pays. Rarely was I able to stack two units let alone hang them. Think that was mostly a commercial application or basement. Can the rafter handle it. Never hang from masonry/ tile roof.

use an easy out tool

Unions created a sealed fitting compression with a o-ring

If you didn't install the HVAC system, how can you tell which one you have?

@@sicsempertyrannus226 Put your hand over the open vent and if air is blowing out then it's under pressure, meaning the fan is blowing through the coil rather than drawing it through.

Rob Michael I have a downdraft air handler, the a coil is on top, and blower is underneath pulling air through the a coil from above and sending air through ductwork below. What do I have, + or -, and where do I put the vent cleanout. right now there isn't any trap, or vent, but water is draining out outside. Thanks.

@@remichalI have a downdraft air handler, the a coil is on top, and blower is underneath pulling air through the a coil from above and sending air through ductwork below. What do I have, + or -, and where do I put the vent cleanout. right now there isn't any trap, or vent, but water is draining out outside. Thanks.

@@robertbelknap If the fan is pulling air through the coil, like yours, it's a draw thru and the coil is under a negative pressure. The trap is there to prevent sewer gasses and insects ( if it drains onto the ground) from getting back into the air handler. The vent prevents siphoning. In your case the vent needs to be between the air handler and the trap.

LMGTFY: Reme Halo. Whole Home In-Duct Air Purifier.

I dont understand why you cant just look it up, you got this far

Vents not really needed on these drains. Trap is necessary if drain is on negative side of blower. If on positive side, inspectors require the trap yet system would drain same if not better without

Debe de ser una antes para limpiar y una después para ventilar

honestly, that's scary to hear!

How do you tell someone they're wrong and ask a question at the same time?

Please go back to school.

I've had brand new pvc do that to me. I actually found that the copper pipe cutters work great on smaller pvc pipe, especially if it is old and/or brittle.

Why would I want to unscrew the p-trap? I never unscrew a trap, unless replacing a coil. The union is only to help clear a stubborn restriction.

@@howtohvac3234 I think he's saying if you put a 2nd union between the outlet and tee, the whole trap section could be removed to be cleaned. My only issue with that would be that it may create a possible restriction at the fitting. I would personally use a 3/4" fernco on both ends so there's no lip inside for gunk to get stuck on.

It's a D trap 😂

This drain is properly set up. I have piped in a few thousand drain lines.

Can you include yt link to your video on how to properly install a drain line

@@FernandoRodriguez-ds5ri as soon as make one. My ceiling caved in upstairs on a drain line similar to the one you posted. I used a j trap for the one I replaced it with

@@FernandoRodriguez-ds5riProbably still working on it…lol😂

He'll be alright, he's a professional.

The drain line has a pitch water goes through. Very minimum. Yet I thought I mentioned I will be replacing this system soon. At that point I will raise up the air handler to give better pitch. Going 2 systems 1st and 2nd floor. You must be a ranger fan! insulting someone you don’t know. If you are a real devils fan, what was the chant 1940 about? that was heard often in Rutherford?

If there was zero pitch, why did all the water he poured through it drain out? If there is zero pitch, why is there a big gap under the pipe where the P trap is and less of a gap neat the other end of the pipe?

@@MAGAMAN the coil is the highest point lol that’s why if you did what he did in new Jerry’s it would fail inspection

@@MAGAMAN and I’m not talking in front of the unit my man take a closer look ;)

@@MAGAMAN he is changing the p trap why cause it’s junked up why is it junked up?

What is terrible?

@@speedracer609 vent goes after the trap

Don’t need a vent on this drain. The clean out tee is not a vent

@howtohvac3234 yes I know the clean out tee is not a vent, but a vent is always required because vent after the tee allows air to enter the line to help push the water out, and let's say you have blockages over time a vent after the tee allows if any stagnant water causing odor to vent out and not get back into the system if the trap was not filled. Just like a toilet has a trap and vent that goes up and usually out the roof.