On this channel I want to create HVAC educational videos. I want to share my experience and knowledge with all interested. I have another RU-vid channel The HVAC Hacker where I share Air conditioning and heating service calls and repair jobs.
Hi Bill . I have question for you . I have cast iron boiler made by slant fin , it is direct vent Victory model . Boiler is over 20 years old by now. I removed old circular pump on return side of boiler do to pump rusted and leaking water . Treaded part of boiler on return side have internal threads it 1-1/2 diameter and they are not in prefect condition do to age of boiler , I can still able to thread new pipe in boiler . My question is how do you sill this old threads to make leak free connection? Thank you
So, if it is in the summer, and the compressor heater isn't required. You can at minimum substitute a two pole with a single pole without any concern? Fan dosen't have to be hot?
Hello - i have a few questions... this looks similar to what we have in our attic. What if the clean out isn't capped off, does that cause problems? If you know there is a clog and want to use the air compressor to push the clog out of the drain, can you use the clean out spot or is it better to create one of those sections where you can easily take the PVC apart?
If you have a tee on yours like he installed on his, it should definitely be capped. You can look up static air pressure. Basically it will pull in air so much that water will stay in your pan and potentially overflow. As far as the air compressor, I feel like that is preference based. In my opinion air is a quick solution to get it clear, but flushing with bleach or vinegar will probably suit you better.
So I have a question. What is the trick with the pressure washer. My boss told me I need one to clean the coils, so I bought one. No idea what I am supposed to do. Do I just aim straight and hope for the best or is there a trick.
Just had a unit installed 5/6. AC stopped working this morning 5/12. Called the installer which doesn't have the greatest reviews, they came out and found a burnt/melted wire on that side of the contactor. Said it had to be a surge and charged me $321 for the repair. I know that is. You know that's bs. I have no problem stopping the check.... however, what do I need to do to assure this doesn't happen again? It's a brand new unit. Do I need to pay another company to come check everything or can I just check certain connections?
Apollo says their EZ-Solder bronze ball valves don't require low heat solder but they say 410 degree solder helps. Especially that I need to wet wrap an elbow only 3/4" from the valve I'm looking to replace. I looked at the prices of Sterling low heat solder.. expensive! I only need to solder 2 of these heavy duty 70LF20401 apollo valves. Thanks.
WRONG never use tape and pipe dope, pipe dope needs to contact the metal threads for it to work and if you use tape and pipe dope the pipe dope won't contact the metal threads on one side.
Wrong, it's not a never are always answer. North Carolina office of the state fire marshal and engineering division for instance requires what the instructions on the tape used are. If tape says no dope, then no dope, if tape says may be used with dope, then it may be both. Some states, counties, and cities require that teflon tape and pipe dope be used together for plumbing pipes and natural gas lines in all residential homes. Some states, counties, and cities require use of only one.
@@berderk2796 Thanks I'm in the same spot. Replacing a 1.25 inch shut off for boiler and the connection from the shut off to the next joint is a straight pipe
Great video. One of the only videos that shows how to work with the pipe for boilers. I need to replace a Bell & Gossett flow control valve and wasn't sure how to manage when turning one side unscrews the other. Seeing you connect to the boiler now things make sense. Do you have to cut and thread the pipe yourself or does it come like that already? Thank you!
I have a similar problem but mine doesn't maintain the voltage that's going into gas valve and I hear clicking noise when it's supposed to open the gas valve to get the flame going
That trap likely won't be tall enough if you have a negative pressure system (fan after the cooling stage) - looks like its only a max of ~2" H2O so with enough suction it won't drain at all while the unit is running (and will draw outside air in up though the vent). Air bubbling up the vent causes contamination with dust & debris. For positive pressure (fan before cooling stage) its fine.
With small pipes, I don't run around the pipe with my flame like that.. I just heat one side with some movement and put in the solder on the other side. This way, I know it is heated up enough everywhere and the capillary effect combined with the flux takes care of the rest. Besides, I normally don't have room to move around the pipe this much..
Great video as always. I was checking the flame sensor signal on a mid efficiency furnace. When furnace fires up the microamp was around 1.7uA. But within a couple minutes the reading started to drop from 1.7uA to 0.6uA and furnace shuts off. I've checked all grounding, changed flame rod, verified gas pressure, cleaned burners, checked all connections and wires, checked rod distance from burner. The board is sending around 110vac to rod. Can it be a bad board? Thank
